Banning Bugs - Slider Screen for a PDQ 32

rev. 11-26-2010

Every boat is a compromise. For 32-foot catamarans, one such compromise is providing standing headroom on the bridge cabin without too much windage or too little wave clearance under the bridge deck. The Gemini 105mc compromises by providing a wave-scraping 3 inches of clearance and terrible visibility forward.  The PDQ 32 does it with a slider that can be closed for inclement weather. It is well covered by the hard top, but mosquitoes fly right in, unless the slider is closed, causing ventilation to suffer just when it is needed most.

We added a removable screen, attached by Velcro, that rises from the bulkhead to the ceiling. We attched medium-duty self adhesive Velcro at about 12-inch intervals to both the boat and the net. There's a trick--although Velcro sticks well to gel coat, the netting provides a challenge, since there is no surface area. However, if a matching square of duct tape is pressed on the opposite side, the adhesive coatings see each other through the mesh and the grip is positively tenacious. I may tailor a more permanent version later, but so far the beta version seems very workable.

Dark netting gives far better see-through visibility than white netting. The dark netting does not unduly hamper forward visibility.

Ventilation is maintained and the screen can be left in place if motoring a bug infested river on the Inter-coastal Waterway or the Chesapeake. The door is unobstructed.

Note: after 2 seasons in some bug infested areas, the only required upgrade was to add some more Velcro. A continuous strip of the hook side on the ceiling prevents the dirty buggers that congegate there from cralwing under the edge. We did not add additional velcro to the netting, since the hook part catches just enough in the netting to close the gaps,without making installation and removal a hastle.

We were able to leave it up when motoring in some particularity bad areas.

Ethanol and Gasoline and Diesel - References

rev. 10-14-2010

There is little question; although the addition of ethanol to gasoline has caused no impact to the motoring public - other than a bite in the wallet at tax time and at the grocery store -  the boating community will be living with the down sides for years to come. A few articles containing pertinent facts, since there is certainly plenty of rumor in circulation. These seem to support my varied experiences with several boats. I have kept my opinions to myself.

Will ethanol find its way into the diesel supply? This has been discussed but is not yet in practice. There are links below regarding this potential as well.

I will add more articles as I find them.

______________________________________________________

Gasoline/Ethanol. E-10, possibly moving to E-15 and beyond.

E-15 Aproved by US EPA. Only for 2007 and newer cars, but broader approval is expected.
http://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2010/10/epa-gives-limited-waiver-for-use-of-e15-gasoline/

An interesting report to Australia Environment. Some good technical information about E-10 to E-30 concentrations that I have not seen elsewhere. A different spin that most US documents. Enleanment is addressed on page 10, vapor pressure on page 15, and mileage on page 26. Read the whole piece.
http://www.stealth316.com/misc/review-impacts-of-ethanol-gasoline-blends.pdf

EPA is likely to approve increase from E-10 to E-15 by mid- 2011. They are waiting on tests expected to be completed in June 2010. These are automotive tests and do not address marine or motorcycle engines.
http://www.reuters.com/article/idAFN0149521120091201

The volume of biofuels will probably triple in the next 12 years. This will include ethanol and bio-diesel. The amount may be less if the fuel is not available, but the EPA clearly has authority to increase the geography and concentration of ethanol in gasoline.
http://www.ethanolrfa.org/resource/standard/


EPA memo on E-10 and phase separation. It explains why temperature changes can cause dramatic fall-out. It explains that EPA based their absorption risk statement on a relative humidity of 70% and 70F temperature. Since many boats see humidity very close to 100% and are not used for 6 months at a time, as general reasoning it is reasoning is flawed.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/rfg/waterphs.pdf

White paper on ethanol fuels from Renewable Fuel Association. Includes simple home-test for ethanol content of gasoline (page 31) and information on vapor pressure (page 12-14). Higher vapor pressure equals increased tank breathing, a factor the EPA phase separation analysis disregarded.

http://www.ethanolrfa.org/objects/pdf/newRFA%20Fuel%20Ethanol%20960501.pdf


Also from the RFA site (buried in the Technician's paper):
Enleanment: Oxygenates such as ethanol chemically enlean
the air/fuel (A/F) mixture. As an example, in engines set at an
A/F ratio of 14.7:1 on all hydrocarbon fuel, the introduction of
3.5% oxygen in the fuel would enlean the A/F ratio to about
15.2:1. Computerized vehicles can compensate for this shift
by sending a command to increase fuel flow. Most nonautomotive
equipment is not sophisticated enough to accomplish
this. However, this small change in air/fuel ratio is not of
concern in most equipment and usually no modifications are
required. Some manufacturers have expressed concern that
the enleanment resulting from fuel bound oxygen could create
problems in certain severe applications. In particular, there is
concern about continuous operation at wide open throttle
(WOT) such as in marine applications. Also of concern is
equipment that typically operates rich at specified settings.
An example here would be snowmobiles. The two primary
concerns are octane quality and excessive heat. Properly
blended ethanol blends should not present problems in the
area of octane quality because ethanol is actually an octane
enhancer. Ethanol is routinely used to improve the octane
quality of gasoline. The more predominant concern is the
potential for higher operating temperatures. The maximum
combustion temperature (and resulting engine temperature)
occurs at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1. Going rich or lean from this
point will result in lower temperatures. Therefore, equipment
with richer initial A/F ratio settings such as 13 or 14 to 1 may
experience increased operating temperatures when switched
to oxygenated fuels. This increase is not significant and most
manufacturers do not require any modifications, but some do.
For instance, Polaris recommends that their older carbureted
sleds "jet up" one size when operating on oxygenates. Further,
some of their fuel injected 2 cylinder models require a
"shim kit" to lower the compression ratio. Polaris fuel injected
3 cylinder models are computerized and the E-Prom is already
calibrated to compensate for changes in oxygen content.
Arctic Cat recommends that when using oxygenated
fuels in their older Tiger Shark Watercraft, the high speed
needle valve should be "opened" 1/8 of a turn from its setting.
In the case of their Arctic Cat sleds, they recommend "jetting
up" the carburetor jets one size. Only a handful of marine and
recreational manufacturers offer such recommendations but
consumers should be advised to consult their owner's manual
or servicing dealer to determine if any modifications are
recommended.

Excerpted from (pages 33-36 discuss non-automotive engines):

http://www.ethanolrfa.org/resource/technicians/documents/ChangesinGasolineManualIV-UpdatedLogo.pdf
  

 White paper from the National Marine Manufacturers Association regarding ethanol and aluminum tanks corrosion.
white paper


 Practical Sailor Testing. None of the tested additives were able to prevent phase separation in E-10 gasoline, including several well know brands that claimed they could. Typical puffery in an unregulated market.

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_11/features/Ethanol-Gas-Additives_5692-1.html


Corrosion problems with E-85. Every state publishes similar information; this is from Florida. No, boats don't run E-85, but when the fuel separates, the water phase concentrations are this high and these are the problems we see.
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/waste/quick_topics/publications/pss/tanks/ethanol/EthanolStorageinUSTandAST.pdf

________________________________________________

Diesel/Ethanol. Only discussion at this point, since retail sales is not permitted at this time. Presumably, since boats are off-road, it would still be permissible to use #2 fuel oil, which could not be converted to ethanol blending because of the overwhelming danger of fires in home and apartment furnaces.


USEPA is researching the possibility of adding ethanol to diesel. Nothing has been decided at this time, although clearly the ethanol lobby is pressing hard.
http://cfpub.epa.gov/ncer_abstracts/index.cfm/fuseaction/display.abstractDetail/abstract/7946/report/0

 DOE is researching ethanol/diesel blends. However, this is only a combustion test in an engine, not research on the broader topic.
http://www.nrel.gov/vehiclesandfuels/npbf/pdfs/35334.pdf

 This DOE study addresses safety and some practical problems. It discusses problems such as phase separation (ethanol does not stay in diesel as well as it stays in gasoline), flammability, and high cloud point (room temperature). They discuss all of this from a truck view point, not marine.
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy03osti/34817.pdf

Seven Sins I Will NOT Commit This Spring

I believe in sailing, not sitting on land. I believe in material maintenance and functional improvements and not in primping. Yup, another rant.


1.  Wax-on/Wax off
From what I've seen gel coat can do 40-50 years without real attention, and then there's Imron if I'm still on this side of the dirt... which I doubt. I'd rather paint the boat once than wax it 45 times. Caveat: windows are easier to see through and last much longer with regular wax and covers. They are also harder and more expensive to replace, per square foot, than paint. I pamper the windows a bit.

2.  Scraping Bottom Paint
I use ablative or self polishing paints, and if sailed enough and scrubbed just a few times, there is zero build-up. My last boat was never stripped in 29 years, and frankly, she didn't need it. We hit 15 knots in 12 knots of wind on her last sail with me at the helm, a sea trial for a prospective buyer. Some people worry that soft paints release more copper into the water, but if used until spent, there is little difference; all of the copper in either type is in the water. Caveat: if you race, you'll want a hard paint that you can scrub every few weeks - but not me. That first spring scrub is going to be in cold water, or if you wait until it's warm and things can grow, it's going to be a bear.

3. Draining Fuel and Carburetors / Refilling in the Spring
The trouble is, unless you truly get the carburetor dry, it will always dry out and leave gum. On the other hand, if you leave the carburetor full and start the engines each month, even in the winter--what I've been doing for 25 years--the carburetor won't dry out. A carburetor vent filter slows the process even more, reducing water absorption and oxygen as well, combined with a fuel tank vent filter. After a few seasons of winterizing the boat and having troubles in the spring, I've learned sail all year--even if on a limited basis-- is simpler. Filter/separators help, even with gasoline. If I hauled out for 3-4 months my practice would not change--fuel doesn't evaporate or deteriorate that fast when it's cold, and when it gets warm, I'm back in the water. I love it when calculated sloth is best.

4. Projects Requiring Epoxy...
... or any other temperature sensitive adhesive, sealant, or paint. I hate big spring projects. They delay the sailing season well into summer, waiting for enough good days, on week-ends and in a row, to get anything accomplished. There is a temptation to start earlier, to do it anyway, since 50F seems warm after winter, but the results typically suffer. Even if the days are fine, the nights are too cool for optimum curing. Some products - 3M 4200 and butyl rubber tape - have lower temperature limits. Paints are generally very fussy. Check the labels. Epoxies will eventually cure, but unless specifically formulated for low temperatures they will never reach full strength. Some adhesives will never cure properly. Instead, haul-out briefly in mid-summer, when the weather is dependable. Pre-fab what you can and knock it out swiftly. Chill the epoxy before use, so it doesn't go off too fast in the heat. Paint in mid-morning.

5. Varnishing Exterior Wood
I love to watch other people bending over the rail, sanding away. I admire the results and I love classic boats.

6. Scrubbing
Surely, you jest. I clean the windows, vacuum as needed, and maintain zero clutter on deck and in common areas. Cushions covers get laundered when needed. That's it. I hose off the bird poop when it becomes unbearable, but I can bear much.

 7. Recommissioning
I sail all year. Spring commissioning, for me, is filling the water tank when the dock water comes on (flushing take only seconds), swapping the storm windows for screens (10 seconds each), taking the electric space heater home, and by summer, taking some blankets home. Caveat: if I lived in the far north, where harbors freeze for months, I would act differently.


And then there is the more traditional list:

1. luxuria (extravagance)
2. gula (gluttony)
3. avaritia (avarice/greed)
4. acedia (acedia/discouragement)
5. ira (wrath)
6. invidia (envy)
7. superbia (pride)
Unfortunately, I enjoy these.... The boat is an extravagance, I like beer, I covet large and small catamarans, I discourage myself continuously, I enjoy swearing at old engines, I wish I could take a season off like others, and think my PDQ's pretty cool. I'll focus my effort on my personal list--I have a better chance of success.

I love to tinker--the evidence is all over this blog--but it will not cut into my sailing time. The focus will be function, but I will slip in some primping here and there. Please don't tell.

So many Chesapeake sailors park their boats in September and don't get them wet until May or June; over 60% of the sailing season is spent on blocks or at least with no intention of moving. I don't get it.

Are You "Captain Safety?"

rev 1-3-2012
rev. 9-21-2016

Every blog deserves one good, energetic, opinionated, unjustified rant. Here goes.

Caveat. I do my best to keep my posts factual and informative.  I often go back and edit edit post corrections months later, as better information becomes available.  Although I often state that the information is specific to the PDQ 32 and to the area and style of sailing that I enjoy, I make an effort to keep the information as broad practical. I really try. In this rant, it is probable you will feel insulted at least once. Sorry - my blog. I rather you found it entertaining. In fact, I'll keep adding content to this post in the future, as long as more paranoia keeps coming across my radar. More to the point,  anyone who puts the information in this post into practice better be well acquainted with the concept of personal responsibility.  It will do you good.

Before I became a sailor I enjoyed other adventures.  When skateboards were the rage in the 70s, I was one of those teenagers doing crazy things in swimming pools and half pipes.  I wore a helmet and pads according to what I thought made sense. In college I took a bicycle racing and had some terrible crashes.  I almost never wore a helmet, though in retrospect it might have been a good idea. In one crash shattered my kneecap in the 16 pieces, but helmet wouldn't have helped that, only better judgment. I rollerblade and wear a helmet and pads every single time; the odds of going over backwards striking the back of my skull are material, since I skate with a great deal of vigor. Finally, I discovered mountaineering and rock climbing after I left college. I wear a helmet if there are falling rocks or a good chance, and ice climbing where there is always a good chance of monster icicles coming down. When climbing good solid rock--never. I've helped clean up after a number of serious accidents in the mountains and found that a disproportionate number of the victims were wearing helmets; they thought it made them invulnerable... and they were wrong. Usually I use a rope and all of the appropriate gear. Not always--high-balling is  apart of our mountaineering heritage. I know my limitations and stay within them.

My choices.  I'm happy with them. I wouldn't change any of them, even in retrospect.

Every sailing forum has a least a few posts wherein someone asks an innocent question about a PFD or lifelines or harnesses or life rafts... and gets hammered by the safety police. Invariably, the original poster explained that he was a trailer sailor or lake sailor or coastal sailor, and further explained that he wasn't sailing around the world or even to Bermuda.  Nonetheless, forum sailors are quite proud to display their knowledge of government code, to show just how many ways there are to spend somebody else's money, and how willing they are to crowd another's boat with superfluous stuff. Oh, they'll scare the stuffing out of you, if you listen. 

My unsolicited thoughts.

PFDs. Hardly ever wear them.  Other than in the tender in very bad weather or cold water, I can't think of a circumstance that wouldn't be better managed by wearing a harness and possibly a dry suit. We keep two PFDs in the tender and enough on the main boat to satisfy Coast Guard regulations--I don't tilt at windmills. I don't really care for inflatable PFDs; I'd have to watch the maintenance, I don't find them as comfortable as a harness, and wouldn't wear them anyway. I imagine that dumping a 35-pound kedge on one, used to pad the bottom of the tender, is not recommended, but that's how they live in my world. I will admit that they make sense for round buoys racing, where multiple harnessed tethers will create an incredible knot.  Offshore jackets are absurd for inshore use.

What about PFDs for small children? We had one for my daughter when she was small and used it occasionally, but honestly it was too bulky and too hot. We used it in the water, but on the boat we always used a harness. I sewed up an extra small one--smaller than anything on the market--to fit her as she began to crawl. Of course, it goes without saying that she was NEVER out of quick reach and the attentive gaze of an adult. Personal responsibility.

Yup, that was a violation of the law. Whoopee.

I've seen boats with complicated written policies regarding PFD usage. Just absurd. The skipper should be able to make informed decisions and the guests should follow them. The skipper should know who can swim and who might panic (I can't imagine sailing and being skipper if I were not a strong swimmer, comfortable in very rough waters, and yet I know my limitations). If any of these conditions is not met, then there are deeper issues than PFDs.

(Caution: the only near drowning we ever experienced was while swimming at anchor. A teenage boy swam away from the boat, showing off, only to realize it wasn't a pool and he was out of his depth. We learned that a drowning victim doesn't look like they are drowning--they don't struggle in any obvious way or yell, because they can't--they just sink. Other guests were waving at the boy, thinking it was all just fun. I was in the water and didn't notice. Only my daughter recognized his actions for what they were and acted. Real lifesaving.)

Life Rafts. I've got a catamaran that can't sink (numerous sealed crash tanks), so perhaps I shouldn't weigh in on this... but I will anyway. For coastal sailors with inflatable tender I think the whole subject is kind of absurd. You'd be an idiot to get caught out in a storm of any real duration; nothing more than an intense thunderstorm which will soon dissipate. Otherwise, your boat sank because you caught on fire or ran into a log in fair weather; take extra gas, load everyone into the tender, and go for shore.  You've got a cell phone and you've got VHF. Clearly, this is a bit more of a concern if you have more crew than the tender can manage--I never have more than 4 crew off-shore.

 Lifeline Replacement. I've seen racing boats with the middle cable and toe-rail removed to save weight... and I've seen sailors slide under the top railing. I've read sailors obsess about replacing the railings every few years, that none can be made of coated stainless ( it's true--the coating does high corrosion--I had a jib bridle snap with no warning once due to hidden corrosion),  and that high tech line as a replacement is irresponsible (fiber lines are now ISAF approved for inshore racing). They think they've seen steel cable stretch, when it was clearly the stanchions that bent inwards. Man, just watch the maintenance.

Dockside Engineering. Which brings me to all of the discussions of the strength of lines for anchoring and rigging... by folks that will admit that they never had an engineering class! What did they base the guess upon? Most often, a rule-of-thumb from someone who:
*  Didn't know.
*  Wanted to sell them the next bigger size.
*  Was conservative and recommended what would last through a circumnavigation.
Perhaps it is just as well. If they don't know, they are likely to abuse the system without realizing they are. That makes sense, actually. Nowhere is this more discussed than anchors, where if the sailor doesn't know (can't figure out) what size anchor and rode he needs, he will anchor badly and bigger will be better. Never mind the designer and builder spent real money on epoxy, high tech lines, cored decks, special fibers, and vacuum bagging. Let's throw over-size chain and extra iron in the bow, so we'll sleep better. As little as many know about anchors and the relevant engineering, they shouldn't sleep at all.

One of my favorites "calculations" typically involves something like a 27-foot monohull rounding up to use the 30-foot AYBC storm anchor recommendation (conservative with an ample safety cushion), selecting a chain based upon safe working load (which has a 3:1 safety factor built-in) and rode based upon SWL (5:1 safety factor), and then going up a size, just to be safe. They end up with 5/16-inch G4 chain (11,700-pound breaking strength) attached to a 35-pound anchor that is poorly set in shells and mud, all to face a 350-pound wind force from 40 knots winds (1,700 pounds in 70 knot gusts, including the surge factor), if they are in a completely exposed anchorage in a strong gale. In reality, their system will never see more than 400 pounds in the gusts in any decent harbor, or 3.8 % of the breaking strength of the chain. Guys, the standards and SWL are very conservative in the first place. If they understood the loads on the shrouds when bashing to the weather, they would all need therapy, of this I'm certain. Let's not tell them.

OK, we'll tell them; on a catamaran the maximum shroud tension will be somewhere near the displacement of the boat (it will pick a hull out of the water and absorb wave impacts), which is generally very close to or slightly exceeds the standard SWL of the cable... which is why standing rigging doesn't last forever.

I love to rant on anchoring and rigging. I spent 25 years rock and ice climbing, where someone gets crushed or dead if an anchor is poorly conceived. I've also done construction rigging, often loads over 100 tons. You don't say "that looks good enough." You calculate it and get sure. Every time. Then you relax.

EPIRB. Great idea offshore.  Absurd inshore (within VHF range of the Coast Guard is a good demarcation line for this purpose), with VHF and cell phones. I wonder if anyone's ever triggered one on the Chesapeake Bay?

Radar. Up in Maine with all the fog, great idea. On the Chesapeake...  I guess if you've got enough money and don't like to pay attention at night. But I got a sneaking suspicion that it can't see a lot more than I can with a pair of binoculars, even at night.

Chart Plotters. Lots of fun, but I hate the posts that call it a safety requirement. If you can't navigate inshore with chart and compass, learn right now. Turn the GPS off until you don't need it. I have experienced both failures and great inaccuracies. Don't trust them completely.

Radar Reflectors. I read a Coast Guard study were a tinfoil hat gave a better return than all of the commercial reflectors. I wonder if people remember to rig the thing at night--most don't because it gets in the way of genoa when they tack. I wonder if they check to see what the reflection looks like without it? I considered adding a reflector and then at a fellow sailor tell me that I showed up clear as day without it.  I don't really care if I'm visible from 20 miles; a big ship is considering avoiding me until I'm within 5 miles anyway.  If they're really paying attention all.

Harnesses. I have read...

• Toddlers will hang themselves. And the parents are ignoring a toddler on a boat? Wow.
• The tether could snap. I've been a climber for 25 years and taken thousands of falls on rope. No, it won't fail if properly designed and installed. In certain circumstances a soft tether may be wise. However, no West Marine $150 tether + $325 harness combo + $70 jacklines will keep you on the
  
  boat if you don't know how to install them or use them. I would suggest a climbing class.
• You'll drown while being pulled along by the boat. Well, I think you should practice crawling and kneeling on the foredeck. Seriously, I do when needed.
• It won't fit with my foul weather gear. Figure it out.
• You can slide out of it. Yup, if you put it on way too loose over your foul weather gear, then reach up to hold on to the tether with both arms (which you don't need to--that is what the harness is for--only beginners grab the rope), have no shoulders, and are an IDIOT and don't lower your arms when it feels as though it is sliding... yes it could come off, I guess. Run a rope between your legs, if it makes you feel better... but I bet it won't.
• My feet will roll on the jackline. Don't put it in the walkway. Pick your feet up. Sheeze.
• You'll drown if the boat capsizes. Have a release on both ends. Boy, capsize on a cruising boat is a long shot if your not entered in the Volvo or the Sydney-Hobart.

All kidding aside, harness fit is important and often overlooked. Put it on with the gear you have in mind wearing and then hang from something, as a test. It won't be comfortable, but it should be managable for a few minutes. High and tight under the arms is best. Placement low on the chest is inviting suffocation and cracked ribs. Seat harnesses (the sort rock climbers use and that sailors use up the mast) are NOT suitable for use as deck harnesses (not good at taking a side impact and will drown the hell out of you when towed in the water).

Is the Water Safe? From the Chesapeake Bay Program:
"Is it safe to swim in the Bay? Though people do have some concern about water quality in certain rivers, especially near industrial areas, it is generally safe to swim in the Bay and its tributaries. However, swimmers, boaters and fishermen should obey any signs posted by state officials that restrict certain activities. Because potential human health impacts are an important issue, state agencies regularly test waterways for problems related to human health issues. Where human health concerns are identified, appropriate warnings are issued. For more information about the safety of swimming in your local waterways, contact your local health department.

Are toxic chemicals a problem in the Bay? Since the 1980s, Bay scientists have agreed that the nature, extent and severity of toxic effects vary widely throughout the Chesapeake system. Based on research, scientists determined that there was no evidence of severe, system-wide problems with toxic contamination in the Bay or its rivers. However, scientists have identified three localized Regions of Concern that are considered “toxic hot spots”:

The Elizabeth River in Virginia
The Patapsco River/Baltimore Harbor in Maryland
The Anacostia River in the District of Columbia.

(http://www.chesapeakebay.net/bayfaq.aspx?menuitem=14589#swim)

You'd have to be mental to swim in those "hot spot areas" anyway. Stay away from marinas in general; the traffic, potential for electric leaks, and potential for head pump-outs are obvious. OK, the electric leak issue may not be obvious, but people have been killed by bad wiring around marinas, so if you have to do maintenance, be wary. I also understand that the much under the slips harbors all sorts of foulness - obviously - and has been the source of skin infections. So, all-in-all, it's better to find a nice beach and anchor out in chest deep water. My choice.

I can't imagine taking swimming in the Bay away from my kid and her friends. You're only a kid once and life only comes by once, from my understanding. I'm going to live it.

Insurance/General. First, liability coverage is a matter of social responsibility; you must be responsible for your actions. Yes, if your balance sheet is good you can simply dig the money out of your pocket, but marinas are going to expect coverage before they accept you, so can't see fighting city hall on this. But take responsibility where ever you can and should.

Towing Insurance. I've had boats for 27 years and boats big enough to need a tow for 20 of those. I've never needed help getting back home, and it isn't because I've had new boats or because I've stayed on the straight and narrow. I sail older boats way out of the channel and to the edge of the chart. But but these are sailboats, after all, and the soul of sailing, I thought since I was a boy, was self reliance. I would be SO embarrassed after being towed in, I couldn't show my face. I would have failed, as a sailor.

Of course, if I were sailing one of those swank wing sail America's Cup boats, that would be different; loosing a mast or something is nearly a badge of courage, and someone else is paying for all of this play, anyway.

• Engine failure. Fix it. Most common failures are things any jack leg mechanic can jury rig back to shore. Bad fuel; skim some good fuel off the top into a jar and run with that, change the filter, and dump the carb bowl if that will help, and yes this can all be done underway. Battery flat; find a way to handstart the engine, and no, I can't imagine having and engine that I couldn't start that way, as it invites disaster for those who like solitude. Use the tender to tow yourself. Use the anchor to kedge a short way. Sail, for heaven's sake. I've had numerous engine failures, but there was always a way home. I've sailed into the slip twice, but I was VERY careful. I'm betting I could get into any slip with a tender and ropes.
• Grounding (Chesapeake Bay only, since rocky shores are a different animal). First off, if it is a hard-grounding, the insurance isn't going to pay anyway, so you screwed up. But true hard grounding in the Chesapeake Bay should be very rare. The bottom is soft and the tide comes back. Given the limited tidal range of most of the Bay and the soft bottoms, get off! Motor off. Lighten the boat. Wait for high tide. Row out a kedge and winch yourself off through the mud; only your momentum drove you on, so the winches should get you off. You may need multiple purchase to generate enough force, 2 anchors and plenty of rode, and pulley and short lines to rig the tackles; but all of this is on board and has been practiced... right?
• Bad weather. Yup, some folks panic easy. Really, the Chesapeake is so shallow, I can't think of a place the hook wouldn't bite well before shore came up, and there are many harbors down-wind. Head for one, even if it isn't your first choice; should someone else, even the insurance company, pay for my lack of planning?
• Taking on water. In a bad case, call for help, no question. On the other hand, what would you have done with no help? I've hit submerged trees and had a through-hull failure and found simple solutions.

I don't take the "throw the hands in the air attitude and call someone approach." It smacks of poor contingency seamanship and the underlying attitude is... unsafe. Any skipper that can't deal with 99% of what comes at him needs to stay very close to harbor indeed.

Full Coverage Insurance. I carry a really high deducible and believe everyone should. I have NEVER made a claim, though I have had some damage. I like fixing things. I don't blame the weather and wear and tear for damage. I don't let one thing lead to another. Some of the piddly things I hear claimed are a shame:

• "I hit something in the water and it damaged my prop. Then I needed a tow and temporary dockage and... but the insurance wouldn't pay for it all." Off course, the whole story relates the fact that weather was poor so Tow Boat US wouldn't do it under their towing coverage, hitting a floating object is generally treated like a flat tire, and so of course dockage and such were not covered. The boat was not in real jeprody due the to the storm, so the insurance won't cover a convenience tow. The sailor was thinking like a driver, not like a sailor. In this particular case, the sailor could have easily sailed to a harbor 10 miles down wind, anchored for the night, and sorted it out in the morning, but that wasn't what the guests wanted, and the captain was offended, I think, that nature wouldn't bend to his wishes. Darn. I hear a lot of variations on this theme.
• Water damage after sinking at the dock. I'm sickened by the number of boats that are totaled because after they sink, the owner does NOTHING to reduce the loss. He stands back and waits for the insurer to examine things, by which time the salt has been in the boat for weeks and weeks. If the boat had been hauled the next day, washed and dried, yes, the electronics would be toast, but the rest is savable. I spent a lot of time in New Orleans (my company runs a plant there) and I was disgusted by the volume of things that were ruined, not by getting wet, but because indivduals, families and companies would stand around and watch everything mould but not lift a finger. I watched the Vietnamese community jump into action, since typhoons were a part of their culture, and pull their neighborhood back together. They didn't wait for insurance or the government.
• The whole culture of repainting and major repairs for a mere scratch bugs me, whether car or boat. We pay for this as a society. More cars should drive around showing a few scratches and battle scars. It shows character, that we live and that we are out there. I don't trust a  real cruising boat without some dock rash and wear. They're being too careful and not staying in enough rough marinas. 

My marina asked for a complete liability release, and after long consideration, decided it was OK, since it was symmetrical; they handle their problems, I handle mine.

 Insurance is a valuable means of spreading risk, but too many see it as a means of work avoidance, planning avoidance, or responsibility avoidance. "I'll just sit back and get someone else to fix it good as new, and if they don't, I'll whine about it."

Monitoring Channel 16. Yup, I know we owe this to each other, for we all make mistakes and get caught in a tough spot now and then, or will someday at least. It's even the law (if you have a radios, commercial or not , licensed or not, it must be monitored while underway). But if I have to listen to inane and often garbled calls, one after the other for hours, nope, I'm not doing it. It's too bad a few blowhards ruin the system. A few examples:

• Calling the same marina or boat 3-10 times, getting no response. If two calls doesn't do it, give it a rest. Try your cell phone. They've got the number in the cruising guide, they're just to lazy to pull it out. In fact, cell phones can't replace VHF, but they sure can reduce the chatter.
• Using 16 on the highpower setting for local hailing. If you are going to use VHF docking directions or to hail a passing boat, set it on low.
• Radio checks. Some guys do this every day, as though it could fail every day, as though they don't have cell phones, as though they were heading off on a serious voyage. If they broadcast once when heading out, OK, though the equipment is more reliable than that. It's the ones that call someone, then ask for a radio check because they didn't respond, then call someone else, and then ask for another radio check....
• Long conversations unrelated to navigation and safety, even on working channels. "Did you make it to... last night? How was it? We went to... and then we.... Tomorrow we're going to... or may be.... Can you meet us there?" " I don't know, have you heard the weather (of course we all have)? NOAA says...(the full report, repeated)... but I don't know. Have you heard from...? What are they doing?"
• Profanity. Swear in private, by all means. Elevate it to an art. It doesn't offend me, but on the radio it is always associated with unproductive chatter.

I do monitor 16 on cold winter days, stormy days, and week days in general. With fewer boaters on the water and better radio discipline among those that are, it's worth it. The Coast Guard operators do try to keep 16 clear, but it's a problem.

Icy Docks. More specifically, folks that can't check on their boats because it too icy. I don't know how they manage sailing in a breeze. Just move slowly or wear Yac-trax.

I feel better now.

A Few More Easy Upgrades

Little stuff, worth sharing.

Nav Station Table

The stock table is too big. You can't walk past it. You can't open the head door. It doesn't need to be that big to work a chart, not with GPS and chart plotters. Some owners have dispensed with the station and replaced the seat with shelves. I wanted and needed a work area and took a different approach.

I keep small parts in 3 plastic bins that fit easy down the right side of the chart cubby. Charts go on the left side. Since table is cut from an old SCAN computer desk, I'm not too concerned if it picks up a battle scar or two, but I'm careful. I even have a small clamp-on vice, which I've used more often with fishing tackle than anything serious. Cost - perhaps $1.00 in varnish.

Kitchen Shelf
There can NEVER be enough counter space. Cut from another bit of the SCAN desk, this was my wife's idea. Brilliant and simple. Lifts off for storage, but in practice is seldom removed. Cost - Perhaps $0.50 in varnish.



Storm Windows

It was COLD this winter and I slept on the boat a good number of nights. You need to look closely at the picture to see the reflection, the only clear evidence. They are simple: 1/8-inch acrylic cut with a plastic cutter, trimmed to size on a bench grinder, and some are fitted with fabric loops to facilitate removal (the larger ones in the cabins and next to the salon door). They fit in the bug screen groove and help just a little with the cold. Cost - $8.00 for a handful of ugly thrift store posters - I threw the posters away.

Draft Reduction
In cool weather the gap between the slider and the cabin roof steals ALL of the heat. I'm told this is where the bugs sneak in in the summer too, though I havn't caught them in the act. These hotdog-shaped rolls solve the problem. Two-per average towel, sewn into a roll. Cost - free. We always have surplus towels that can't stay in the public eye but haven't yet been demoted to oil-rags or pet bedding.

Tramp Area Storage Bag
I use this one for a water filter, anchor bridle, and sun screen. Once, beating up the Delaware Bay for 40 miles in a 20-knot breeze opposed by a 2 knot current (like the Gulf Stream on a smaller scale), I had to remove the bag and put it below, but I hadn't lost anything. It just seem prudent since the front third of the boat was playing submarine. Made from a shoe bag and secured with twist fasteners. Mildewed and ugly, but VERY functional. Cost - Since I made my cockpit sheet bags with the same thrift store bag...
(http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2009/05/handfull-of-minor-pdq-upgrades.html)
... about $2.00.

Note 2012: the nylon fabric fell apart in  about 18 months, but the concept was sound. I made a new one from trampoline material. Also, the originally twist-lock fasteners used to secure this bag and others proved fragile; I am changing them over to pad-eyes with lashings. Not as neat, perhaps, but sailorly and tough. Still like new November 2012.



Head Trash Can

I hate plastic trash bags hanging from every hook and I hate not having a trash can at hand. This simple can with lid was made from 1/4-inch ply with epoxy and paint, and hangs from a pair of self-adhesive hooks. No holes were drilled in the making of this project, and it's removable when the head pump requires surgery. Cost - about $8.00 in material and about 4 hours of labor - but I like it! I'm sure a suitable plastic can exists, but I couldn't find it. This kept my epoxy skills in tune.



Nothing earth shattering, but these ideas survived a season without me deciding they were mistakes. That's something. They all improve the livability of the boat.

Washing and Conditioning Rope

The Problem. Ropes become progressively more and more difficult to handle, after 5 years of exposure to sun and salt; the UV damages the surface fibers and causes some stiffening, lime deposit on the interior fibers, and the weaving lubricants are washed away. Some sources suggest fabric softener, but it only makes the surface soft and accomplishes nothing useful or lasting. It's useful for reducing static on sheet, removing wrinkles, and making laundry smell good, for mostly cotton fabrics. It endures few days and isn't intended to stay on through even one washing - it would build up into an awful mess.

The Solution is a real rope treatment, such as Nix Wax Soft Shell Proof. There is also a rope-specific version, Nikwax Rope Proof, but is somewhat less available and not very different. Used by ice climbers and winter mountaineers, it reduces water absorption and thus prevents line freezing (life-threatening, since a frozen rope is useless), reduces friction through carabiners, and helps the rope slide more easily over rough surfaces. It reduces the loose in strength every rope experiences when wet. Climbing ropes often come with a "dry" treatment to prevent freezing, and this product is meant to maintain that treatment. For sailors purposes, it replaces the internal lubricants, washes out the lime and discourages re-deposition, makes the line run through blocks more smoothly, and reduces water up-take resulting in lighter sheets. Not quite like new, but much better. The effect lasts for 1-2 seasons, depending on use.

When washing a rope....

• Never wash a double braid less than 1-year old. Damage can result - the inner braid can actually come through the outer braid. This is not a danger after 1-year.
• Tie the rope in a loose daisy chain. Wash according to treatment instruction.
• Air dry while still daisy-chained; it will dry more quickly than in a pile or coiled.

_________________

Brand spanking new dockline (New England Ropes) after 10 minutes in a machine on the gentle cycle, inside a pillow case! The herniations repeat every 1-2 feet. After a full cycle, as much as 4 inches of core was exposed. Ouch.

______________

I've treated ice climbing ropes many times and balky mainsheets few times. The rope will feel slightly slippery for just a little while, like a new line, but this passes quickly with use. I assure you, rock climbers do not tolerate slippery ropes.

The Art of Climbing down Gracefully - The Long, Dedicated Declined to Dignified Decrepitude

Notes: much of what follows, including the title, have been paraphrased or borrowed from an article by Tom Patey, previously published in Mountain Number 16, and republished in the book Games Climbers Play, edited by Ken Wilson. Tom Patey, a famous Scottish ice climber, was tenacious in his sport, consistently humorous in his writing, and penetrating in his understanding of climbers and what makes them tick. His article contains 16 'ploys' for not completing or even beginning to climb; I've only quoted the few that seem to fit best; However, his article is a riot and the book Game's Climbers Play is an excellent introduction to the climber's mind. Get a copy.

Rev. 7-21-2024

 

 Eventually this morphed into a full length article (Good Old Boat Magazine) of excuses we use to avoid cruising. Maybe I will post the whole thing in the future, but without the gorgeous illustrations the mag provided I would like it a little less. Intellectual property is important. I still have the rights to the articles, since the license was for a single use, but Good Old Boat did the illustrating.

 

It's not hard to find obstacles to an adventurous path, to see defeat coming, and to invent clever and rational explanations for yourself and others as to why you should retreat. A few weeks ago I found myself certain I could make significant passages across oceans, to Bermuda and beyond; now faced with a parade of small stumbling blocks, I find myself 'climbing down', retreating to the convenience of coastal cruising that I know so well. Clearly, Tom Patey knew the heart of sailors as well.  

The Art of Climbing Down Gracefully is a catalog of traditional mountaineering ploys that experienced climbers rely upon when age, situation, infirmity, lack of practice, or loss of nerve prevents them from making the grade a the local crag. I will paraphrase a few:

3. The 'Chossy Climb' Ploy. "'Poxy', 'chossy', 'spastic' and 'rubbish' are all terms characteristically used by English and Welsh climbers to denigrate Scottish routes which they've either failed to climb or failed to find (without searching too minutely)." When sailing, I think this applies to shallow waters and small harbors that are dismissed as being of no interest to the cruising sailor.  Maybe they're tricky to find or challenging to negotiate. But just maybe the there is more food for the soul in these places that at dock-side eateries. Sounds like the Delmarva Coast challenge. No, I don't use this one much.

7. The 'Responsible Family Man' ploy. "Don't seem to get away much nowadays, they mutter prominently.  Can't take the same risks - unfair to the kids. This is very effective because of it contains an element of pathos, and brings a lump to the throat of the most hardened of the hardmen. Some aging climbers, no longer able to make the grade on the crags, have been known to contemplate matrimony is the only honorable way out."  Actually, my wife is extremely supportive. She never interfered with my rock and ice climbing habit either. 

12.  The 'Fohn Wind' and other Bad Weather Ploys. The standard British climbing mantra of the golden age was that it took more courage to retreat than to advance. Perhaps the best loved variation was to "give the mountain best." Hurricane season, to sailor, seems the most obvious, but it isn't because that one is real. Better examples are spring storms, and fall storms, and of course winter storms.  With the ploy in full swing, planning any passage becomes impossible.  

By comparison, I can easily use these ploys to stay in the Chesapeake Bay:

1. Insurance is a killer. I just don't cruise off-shore enough to dilute the cost. There are college expenses, 401(k), the boat payments, and the rights of my family.

2. My daughter is in school. Although there are some that take their children out of school, I disagree.  I'm sure there's very much to be learned about the nature of the world and the nature of people, by cruising the oceans and experiencing something other than the rat race.  But in my mind, there's far more for a teenager on land and there is at sea, and I don't just mean school. Let's be practical; we're land born creatures and not fish, and we live our lives in this community.

3. I would never ditch it all to go cruising. It wouldn't be my vision of paradise.  There are too many things to like on dry land: rock climbing, ice climbing, bicycling, snow skiing, ice skating, rollerblading, hiking, and traveling to meet all of the people on dry land. This isn't a criticism of those who choose to go or a rationalization of my own fear; I like dry land and doubt that I would ever wish to cruise for more than a season.

4. Health. Both a reason to go, and a reason to stay nearer to home. Well past 50, a vigorous life has accelerated the accumulation of aches.  I can't see a good reason to postpone cruising until it's more difficult.  And yet, as I go sailing now I find myself less tired than I did when I was 30.  I'm smarter about it and use my energy much less wastefully.  I hear cruisers complain of bruises and bumps; I sustain far much less wear and tear that I used to. There is also my wife to consider; she is a brittle diabetic and to go far offshore, beyond the reach of paramedics, wouldn't be responsible. I can't remember how many times we've had an ambulance come to the house after she has lost consciousness from low blood sugar.  It's not because of poor attention on her part - sometimes I've helped her monitor her medication, diet and activity as they apply to maintaining consistent blood sugar - because often the deviations positively defy simple explanation. Stress and variable sleeping schedules makes maintaining consistent blood sugar even more challenging.

Note: I don't climb rock as much as I used to either, but I don't use complicated ploys to avoid it. I explain that I'm old and lame. If my daughter is with me, she's quick to support the veracity of these claims. Ice on the other hand, still holds mysteries for me and my skills continue to improve. The damn thing is Virginia is short on ice.  Whoops, there I go, using the 'Fohn Wind' ploy.

How Strong is She, Really?

rev. 2-19-2010

From time to time every sailor wonders how strong a given part of their boat is. Magazines and books suggest that everything should be reinforced, because there are under-built boats out there to which bad things have happened. The PDQ 32 is among the more carefully built and conservative designs; little upgrading for strength is needed. What follows is a collection of rough calculations I have gone through; I will add to this post over time as I collect more. So far I have found that the PDQ engineers seem to have checked their details.

Note: I am a chemical engineer, not a structural engineer, so I have made only rough calculations and kept my assumptions to myself. There are always guesses regarding lay up details. But I have applied practical expereince gained on this and other more fragile boats - I have been sailing long enough to have broken and repaired many things - and I think I am reasonably close. It would have been nice to have some of this information in the manual, but then I would have nothing to puzzle through during the winter (20 inches of snow are predicted to fall tomorrow).

Davits
The davits are a simple design; two 1 1/2-inch stainless pipes cantilevered out through the transom and bolted to an inner bulkhead. I used a simple pipe cantilever beam formula from Mark's Handbook of Mechanical Engineering. Because they have a twist bent into the design and because pipe is subject to buckling failure and not simple fiber over-stress, the calculation is complex. However, assuming a 4:1 safety factor (conservative, to allow for buckling), ignoring the slight inward curvature, I came up with a safe working load (SWL) of 188 pounds. The heavy end of the tender, with motor and accessories, is about 80 pounds. If we allow for 50 pounds for water and a 140% dynamic load factor, we get a load of 182 pounds. Very close. If a sailor leans hard on the davit while entering a boat in the water, perhaps a 190-pound force is applied. I have leaned hard while digging out an incredibly heavy snow load and it felt very solid, though it certainly flexed. So, it seems PDQ engineers designed for all common use scenarios and used a conservative design factor.

What if we add a wind generator? The generator plus mounting pole add ~ 30 pounds. The downward thrust generated by the wind (as transferred through the braces) might be about 40 pounds, but this depends on the exact arraignment. Now we have a maximum load on the davit of 264 pounds. We are beyond the design limits; it will probably be fine, but it is going to flex significantly and possibly crack some day. Taking the outboard off would solve the dilemma, but I like the convenience of leaving it mounted. Choices. Adding solar panels present similar stresses - more weight but less wind load.

What if we add seats, such as those on the Gemini 105Mc? That would be about 480 pounds (people plus structure), plus a 140% dynamic load factor but supported a bit closer in, so it's equivalent to a 220-pound load addition to each end. Added to the dingy load, we get about 484 pounds, not counting falling into the seat or crowding one end, which could easily push the load right to the breaking point. Additional support is defiantly needed. Better, or at least simpler, would be to fabricate a replacement davit from 2-inch stainless tube. Strength goes up roughly with the cube of diameter, and so the SWL should be about 450 pounds. If you have a big family, perhaps 2 1/2-inch tubing is in order. Beefing up the glass in the area with a few more layers might be a good call, too, and going with a slightly larger flange.

Cleats
The deck in the area of the cleats is 5/16" solid glass (I drilled a hole near the bow cleat while mounting a chain lock). They are mounted with two 3/8" bolts and large fender washers. If we assume a shear strength of 30,000 psi (conservative - 45,000 psi would be more typical of a vacuum bagged laminate), assume that a 2-inches length of laminate would need to fail to pull a cleat (generally a failed cleat pulls a large hole in the deck because of the fender washer on the nut), assume the stress is horizontal and athwartships, and that the leverage is applied 2 rope diameters from the deck, we get a failure strength of about 17,000 pounds. In fact, we may see crushing under the cleat before that, but I would be surprised if the strength was less than 10,000 pounds. There is no mooring or sea anchor load on a bridle that is going to come close. Typically a 1/2-inch line is recommended for each bridle leg, which has ~ 8,000 pound failure strength and a working load of about 1,800 pounds. For comparison, a single 5/16-inch rock climbing anchor bolt is known to hold 5,500 pounds in shear.

Winch Base
After I pulled a winch out while sailing hard on the wind in a sustained 20-knot breeze with a 130% genoa, I considered adding backing plates to all of them. After confirming that the failed winch was incorrectly owner installed in a cored deck section, I realized the factory winch installations in solid glass were fine.

The winch that pulled out had been mounted to a cored deck without the benefit of fender washers or any core replacement. The failure was shearing of the skin and crushing of the core around and under three 5/16-inch nuts. There was no water damage to the core, although there were some signs of minor leakage (perhaps the leakage all occurred during the 2 weeks we sailed with a floppy winch sealed with duct tape). The mounting failed at full load (just less than 1,000-pound line pull, based upon the gear ratio, handle length, and assumed level of one-hand effort). If we give no value to the core resistance, figure the laminate to be 1/32-inch thick (not counting gelcoat), and count 2 bolts, failure would have been expected at 2000 pounds of line pull, but given some unequal loading between bolts and fatigue, a failure at 1000 pounds after11 years of service seems very reasonable. With either an oversized solid glass backing plate, or if installed in solid glass (1/4-inch in this area), the pull-out strain will be similar to a deck cleat (more leverage, but more laminate area) or at least 10,000 pounds and 2,500 pounds SWL, which is more than enough to provide a long no-flex and no-crack service. Failure would likely be where the solid glass tapers to cored construction.

Note regarding bedding of winches. The existing bedding was silicone, it was not stiff, and probably had not failed. The winch pealed up very easily - actually, a 1000-pound line pull removed it, so I'm guessing. Still, I like butyl rubber better for mounting things that may move a bit under extreme load, I know I will remove some day, and are well secured with bolts. Examples are stanchions bases, cam-cleats, traveler and genoa tracks, windlasses, and fresh air vents.

• Butyl bonds to the deck and never gaps. Even so, it is easily removed with mineral spirits.
• Installation is neat. Simply trim the excess with a dullish knife a few minutes after you tighten the bolts. A bit more will squeeze out over the next hour, but I generally leave that as an extra gasket. It could be trimmed. No cleaning excess with big messy wads of paper towel, or pre-taping to limit the spread.
• Butyl doesn't go bad in storage. Keep a roll on the boat.
• No drying time.
• Silicon is very difficult to re-seal. Even silicone won't stick to it.

Use the gray material, available from RV parts stores. The black material, more often used for windows, can stain porous gel coat and clothing. Do not use it below the waterline. Do not use near heater vents or where gasoiline or oil exposure are probable; it will turn into goo.

I use 3M 4200 or or even 3M 5200 for things that I won't be moving or that are mounted with screws and could use some extra bonding. But I warn you; 3M 5200 is about as easy to remove as epoxy and getting the hardware off can be ugly. They do sell a de-bonding product, which helps good deal. Trichlor works too.

Windlass Mounting
The deck several feet back from the bow is cored, and there was no evidence on my boat that core had been replaced with solid material. The line pull on the windlass and the winch are similar - 1,000 pounds. However, the windlass came with an integral flange which distributes the load over the full circumference. Additionally,  the horizontal pull on the windlass is much closer to the deck than it is on the winches. This combination of factors gives a much stronger mounting, with failure expected at nearly 10,000 pounds and with a SWL of 2,500 pounds. The winch will stall well before damage is done. What a difference a change in angle and a simple backing plate make, when compared to a sheet winch.



Attaching a Drogue
The Jordan Series Drogue advise is to attach the bridle to the transom with dedicated plates; sound general advise when the construction of a specific boat is not known, for mono-hulls where the cleat spacing is often too narrow to cause a sufficient turning moment (catamarans are wider - this is not a PDQ issue), and to provide for low chafe. Sound practice for serious storm application. Can you attach a drogue line to the winches? I would not. Although there is little chance that even a Jordon Series Drogue could pull them out of a PDQ deck, I wouldn't be surprised if the winch mechanism was damaged, and the strain would be too great to adjust the bridle under load. A tugboat hitch would take the stain of the palls, but the beam is still less.

Will the stern cleats do? Certainly. Attach the drogue to the stern cleats (a single round turn to insure load sharing), backed-up by the mid-ship cleats, allowing substantial extra line in the bridle so that it can be eased in case of chafe. By backing-up the bridle with the mid-ship cleats, the tension on the mid-ship cleat hitch will remain moderate and can be released under load; this is a common construction riggers procedure. It is also simple enough to slack one leg and transfer it to a winch for recovery.

Chafe protection should be provided through the use of anti-chafe gear where the rope moves against the deck under the stern railing. Watch out for sharp spots on the stanchion bases and deck bolts. Examine every connection point for sharp edges, loose thimbles (the above webbing can sometimes make a very serviceable thimble if threaded onto the rope before splicing and it is not prone to working loose), and movement when under load; although I haven't enjoyed a major storm off-shore, I have seen plenty of chafe failures in industrial applications. Just as it is easier to cat a line with a knife when it is under load, chafe accelerates under high load factors.

A Tiny Cart for Serious Hauling

rev 10-10-2011

The Really Cheap Solution
As a cruiser, there is often the need to haul food, ice, jerry cans, or laundry. Back packs help, but they don't accommodate awkward sized objects, volume is limited, and a full jerry can is just too heavy after a few blocks. Fold-up apartment dweller grocery carts are too big to store and still don't manage awkward and over-sized items well. Luggage wheels can handle the weight, but they don't handle floppy items and bags. However, when fitted with a folding plywood platform, the shortcomings are resolved. I could have painted the wood, but I reasoned that would only make it slippery. The hinge is nothing more than a few cable ties threaded through drilled holes. Friction tape on the tubes helps too.

A $2.50 thrift store solution that proved itself over a season. Tip: find the sturdiest set of luggage wheels available. Some are junk.

The Pretty Cheap Solution
Mostly, because I found this one at a marine thrift store for $5, but I like it even better and I think I'd pay full price if it came to that. I know, most of us would rather sell our children that buy something at West Marine that is available elsewhere--and often the their price makes us consider that--and sure enough, it's actually a file cart available from Office Depot for $7 less.

It easily manages a 5-gallon can of gas and a few more bags stacked on that and stores in no space at all.I did break the top hinge when I carried my air conditioner with it, but that was my fault; it was too heavy and placed terrible leverage on the sides. It was easily repaired with a few 1/4-inch holes ad some cable ties, reinforcing the partially damaged hinge. Not as rugged as the luggage wheels, but generally more handy.

I Admit it - Sometimes it's Just too Cold to go Sailing...

...So we go go ice climbing instead.

Jessica has just grown to the point where the crampons and ice axes - razor sharp tools of the trade - and other gear are sized properly; they don't make kid's sizes in this sort of gadgetry. Most likely this is a safety measure intended to protect children from the hubris of their parents, and to protect parents from the urge to place razor sharp implements in the hands and on the feet of a teenager.

But what can be more fun that a day in the woods spent playing in snow and ice with kids? Many things I supose... but we had a fine time.