Anchors: New Generation vs. Northill

rev, 7-26-2024

 

Commercially irrelevant, but I thought this might interest you.

I've been using a Mantus 12-pound break-down version (early production) because it was the only NG anchor that would fit my shallow well. However, the angles don't suggest very high holding power. It has done well in soft mud testing (Fortress sponsored tests), I believe, because the large roll bar is really helpful in soft mud; the fluke angle is not better, but the huge roll bar functions better in soft material, presenting the fluke to the bottom at a favorable angle. At least that is what I think I am seeing. The holding sand fits better with the low angle projections of (75-100 pounds/pound).

 

 

But Mantus 12-pound break-down mechanism will often jam with sand and shell. The 2-pound version was bad for this, but gwith the smaller size it was easier to force, and just the same, I generally I left it in one piece in the tender. The Northill Utility, on the other hand, never jams and can be assembled in about 5 seconds every time. I like that. It is easy to see the Northill as an old fashioned yachtsman's anchor, but remember that this was developed as part of the war effort to develop seaplanes. Modern engineering went into the design. It just looks old fashioned.

Today I tested the hold power in soft/med mud, four reps each, long scope and short scope:

Anchor (12-pounds)       Long scope (12:1)        Short scope (3:1)

Mantus                           310                                100

Northill                          330                                 90  

 

 

Correcting for scatter, they are basically the same. The big surprise, for me (other than equal holding) was how deep the Northill went. It buried more shank than the Mantus and the stock was 12 inches deep. I've never seen the stock bury in sand, but I never pulled it anywhere near failure.

 

 

If you look at the projected area in the attached photo, they are very close, with ~ 25% more area for the Mantus. When the stock of the Northill is fully engaged (it pulls down well into the mud), the fluke of the Northill is deeper, in firmer mud. The stock does not help it dig, but it does provide a lot of stopping power. The Northill fluke angle is steeper, more like Manson. Finally, the Northill sets in less distance. It seems these factors roughly offset.

 

 

• I did this just for me. I now know the Northill is suitable... though I had used it many times on my Stiletto 27, back before NG existed. It was the best shell and weed option for a light boat.
• The Northill remains VERY popular in the fishing fleet. I can see why. I still use it when fishing over jointed rock bottoms; no modern anchor holds as well and as reliably.
  
• It can foul if the tide goes 360.
• If it rolls over it should reset fast; the other fluke is clean.

I find it interesting that such a different shape can yield results that are so close. Just interesting. 80-year old technology. If there were only some way to get rid of the exposed fluke. Lots of things have been tried.

 

 

 

Sea Kayak vs. Recreational Kayak

I bought our first kayak for my daughter for her 15th birthday. I wasn't sure we'd have enough time to use it, but she wanted one. Between us, we now have six kayaks, including recreational, sea kayak, high pressure inflatable, and folding. And they all get used. It can be mash kayaking, some place we have to portage, mild whitewater, fishing, or off the boat visiting beaches. 

Inflatables generally don't paddle that well; they may be light and firm, but they tend to be blunt. That said, Walker Bay Sport packs easily (10 minutes set-up) and is credible for descending easy whitewater if you use the thigh straps. It's built solidly, like a good inflatable dinghy using the same materials and valves, but even stiffer and sturdier because of the small size. It could be a good choice for a small sailboat with no deck space.

 Folding kayaks (Oru Bay) take a little more space and a few more minutes to set up, but they paddle much better. They are light and streamlined. The seat isn't much, so I wouldn't be out for more than a few hours. Banging rocks doesn't seem like a good idea, but it's smooth and fast on still waters.

 

Sit-On Recreational kayaks are not my thing. They are too heavy, too slow, and too sluggish to be any fun IMO. They are popular for rentals, because they are easier to reboard and hard to tip. They are popular for fishing kayaks, which are often overloaded 100-pound cows that barely paddle. I really don't understand most fishing kayaks, but that is another topic (I fish from my recreational kayak and like it better).

Sit-In Recreational kayaks. should be (IMO) the bread and butter o most sailors. They are a compromise, but that is what you need in a do-all boat. They are stable enough to be nearly impossible to tip. You can reboard from the water with a little practice. They are stable enough for fishing and for boarding from the main boat. They paddle well enough and can handle waves better than the typical flat-nosed, flat-bottomed sit-on kayak. About 10 feet long is good. Longer is hard to store and shorter paddles like a barrel.

Sea Kayaks typically run about 14-18 feet and 3-5 inches narrow than recreational kayaks, making them fast, fast into waves, and tippier. Boarding a sea kayak in waves from the main boat, even in calm conditions, is somewhere between tricky and impossible for the less experienced, and a challenge even for masters when it's rough. If you don't know from experience that you can do this, the answer is probably no. They don't turn for spit, unless you roll them right on the rail, which is a more advanced method. If there are any waves you need a spray skirt, because they are lower to the water. 

I'm not really a fan of rudders for steering. You should be able to do that unconsciously with the paddle, and stability through the foot rests is obviously reduced (if you push on one for balance the boat turns). I am a fan of hip pads and getting a good fit. You sit-in a recreational kayak and you "wear" a sea kayak. 

I am a big fan of Greenland paddles for sea kayaks. Much easier on old shoulders. But not good in shallow water or around rocks.

15-foot Necky sea kayak.

 

 

Bottom line: I use the sit-in recreational and the inflatable more on the boat. I use the sea kayak more from home. But they are all in the rotation and I swap according to what I'm doing. For example, the sit-in is best for fishing, the sea kayak for covering distance, and the folding kayak for guests and when we need more than what the rack will hold.

The Ultimate Grease

Rev. 7-25-2024

Green Grease by Omni Lubricants. There are other waterproof and corrosion inhibiting greases out there, but in lab torture testing with saltwater and in my experience, this is at another level. It doesn't wash off and it stops corrosion dead.

•  Winches. I've used it for 10 years. Best Corrosion Protection in Practical Sailor testing.
• Steering gear.
• Shift and throttle cables.
• Electrical connections (studs and nuts)
• Battery Cables 
• Rigging screws
• Snap shackles
• Carabiners
• Furlers (those with metal bearings)

There are a few places I would use something else:

• Seacocks. I still like lanolin or Lanicote; the thicker product better resists rinse-out and aids in sealing.
• Head pumps. I use silicone grease. Any petroleum product will have some effect on the neoprene parts used in Dometic heads.

And there are places you don't use grease at all:

• Winch pawls. Only oil. 
• Sail tracks. Sailkote by McLube is my favorite.
• Plastic ball bearings. Never grease. Never Sailkote or other dry lube. But the topic of oil is complicated; small amounts ( a few drops) are recommended by the manufactures under some conditions, specifically for travelers. Read the manual!
  

Mooring Knots

Rev. 7-23-2024

This is a new low for me.

Not only is the boat secured only by an overhand stopper stashed behind a dock cleat horn, he messed with the next boats tie-up (the other cleat on the next boat was a proper hitch).

But then I saw something even worse, primarily because it is the boat next to mine. The pity here is that I had tied a proper hitch... but he decide to re-tie the boat.

So when the marina staff won't fix it, and the owner won't fix it, and it is next to you, what do you do to keep your boat safe? I'm betting this boat is uninsured.

And there are more. This one resulted in the boat sinking a few weeks later.

 

 

A reversed cleat hitch ... sort of. Good luck releasing it under load. How do you even do this?

 

 

And finally, if you can't tie a knot ... tie lots.

 

 

Mainsheet Tackle Extension Using Strops

 

In a resent forum thread people were arguing (always) whether or not to put a swivel on the anchor.

Same question, but regarding mainsheet tackles. 

-----

If the tackle sheets to a winch it probably runs along under the boom and a swivel serves no purpose. You could extend the top block to save rope but it would increase the likelihood of twist in the tackle.So probably not.

However, if the tackle is hand sheeted through a cam cleat, probably yes.

• The bottom blocks and cam cleat needs to rotate 120-180 degrees with every tack because the crew moves.
• If the top block does not rotate to match the bottom the tackle will twist and rub.

The other question is do the blocks need to mount dirrectly to the traveler and boom, or can then be extended with strops?

 

Both  photos are Corsair F-24s.

The high cam cleat makes it easier to sheet from the windward ama.

 

The positives are:

• An extension is lower friction than any swivel. Helpful at the top.
  
• The rope can be reduced by 4-8 times the length of the extensions. For me, a 5-inch extension saved 35 inches of rope. Whoopee.
  
• The cam cleat may be at a better height. A low cam cleat can make for impossible sheeting if the crew is sitting out. This is the most common reason for extending the bottom of the tackle.
• Easier to attach the tackle if it is removed from the boom frequently. The strop is easier to grab than some big bundle of blocks that are turning.
  

The negatives are

• Extending the top block downwards can put it at the perfect height to remove you teeth during a jibe. Boat specific.
  
• The bottom block can be floppy for sheeting in light air.
  
• Can be more difficult to grab the tackle and pull it across during a light air jibe.

 The short extension made for smoother swiveling during tacks. The bottom is direct to the traveler, which holds the cam cleat steady in light air.

 

 Any other thoughts?

I extended the top block on my F-24 down a little (dirrectly above) mostly because the top swivel was high friction. I extended the top block on my Stiletto 27 because the tackle came off every time the sail was lowered or reefed.

 This was a good many years ago, since it was taken with 35 mm film. The long extension made lifting the tackle easier (didn't have to grab floppy blocks and it was considerably lighter) when attaching it to the boom. 

 Jessica and I went sailing last week (almost 20 years later) and she's still smiling!

Rudder Shape. Building a Better Rudder

Elliptical was all the rage for racers in the 80s to 90s. Now we're seeing some extreme shapes with tails.  Is it fashion of function? Maybe both.

First, defining the project for my boat and the problem:

• I don't want to replace the rudder with a transom hung upgrade. I like the swing down cassette for aesthetic reasons (I'm weird), the transom would require modifications to mount one, it would interfere with the boarding ladder, and there is nothing mechanically wrong with the rudder or cassette.
• I have added an anti-ventilation fence to help with high speed ventilation. It helped, but there is still not enough control in some sea states. This was designed and speced by the designer of the boat, Ian Farrier.
  
• Although the rudder cassette is OK, I am mindful of not adding much more bending moment. The bearing carrier is DWV PVC, is sunburned, and can't take much more. I have replace the bearings. I also navigate some very shallow waters. I do not want to increase the draft. [The rudder in the F-24 MK1 is mounted in a cassette at the transom that is rotated up with a rope to lift it out of the water. When lowered into possition it functions like a spade rudder.]
  
• The rudder feel is very light. In fact, the rudder is so over balanced I can often let go for a minute upwind in good conditions. She just goes straight. I'm calculating ~ 22% balance, and I think something in the high teens would make more sense.

The core of the problem is that the F-24s have low volume amas that are very prone to driving down off the wind. If there is a steep quartering sea, they like to bury, followed by the stern lifting and the boat immediately rounding up. When the bow buries it becomes like a new centerboard forward, moving the COE and making it impossible to turn and bear away. Monohulls and catamarans do this, but it is many times worse on a trimaran, in part because of the fine amas and in part because of smallish rudders. 90% of the solution will always be balancing the sail plan, and bearing away preemptively and surfing away (really fun, by the way), just before the bow buries, but a little more control would be nice.  I really don't care about racing speed or class rules, but I do like a boat that is fun to drive.

As I said, adding a fence helped. Now I am considering changing the rudder plan form slightly. The Spitfire elliptical profile has proven strengths, but within the constraints (length and ventilation near the waterline) there is probably room for an upgrade. Ian speced out the anti-ventilation fence I have and he changed rudder designs for other models over the years.

The Dragonfly rudder seems pretty extreme, but they're smart guys. Jeffa uses a more squared off profile. There are many examples and I don't really want to go too far down the design rabbit hole.

 

 

 2024 Dragonfly 28. a pretty extreme tail. This would drastically affect balance and would affect the shaft placement. I'm not interested in creating a heavy helm.

 

 

 Jeffa Rudders cruising designs.

 

 

My current idea. I have not decided how much area to add. Call it option A and option B.

 

This also seems more in line with F-24 Mk II (top) and F-28R (bottom) rudders, which are known to be more effective and less prone to ventilation and loss of control.

 

 

 

 

What about just adding a little area down low and aft? This should decrease the balance to about 17-18%, where it should be, increase the turning force about 5-8% in calm conditions, and perhaps 10-15% in tough conditions when the upper portion of the blade is ventilating.The area is added to the deepest part, where the water should remain air-free.

An apparently successful and slightly more radical F-24 MK1 rudder modification.

I'm pretty good with fiberglass, and I've built paddles and dinghy rudders before. The fairing will take some figuring, templates, and some time, but it really is a small area. Seems like a fun project. I like tinkering.

Thoughts?

 

Sewn Splices

 Traditional splicing of rope eyes is the gold standard, but there are times when it is not practical:

• The line is old and stiff.
• It is a line, like climbing rope, that cannot be spliced by conventional methods because the cover is too tight.
• The position of the splice must be precise.

 Enter the sewn splice. This is often seen on sails, and can be made strong for larger eyes by using more stitching. The strength is about the thread strength x number of passes, and add a 50% safety factor. Also protect from chafe with a webbing or other covering.

I've been using sewn splices for 30 years and I have not experienced a failure yet, though I do cover those that are exposed to chafe.

I made this video for Good Old Boat Magazine as a companion for an article on the topic some years ago.

My Favorite Sail Ties

11-2011

Rev. 7-22-2024

In the West Marine catalog--or any supplier for that matter--they sell prefabricated sail ties for ridiculous prices. My boat came with 2 sets of 2 types. I tried some webbing with Fastex buckles--something I had. They worked, but the buckles don't like being stepped on and sometimes caught on the cover or the sail. Kind of rubbish for a sailor.

Having completed my Practical Sailor article on washing rope, I was faced with piles of clean ropes in various states of disrepair. Some was ancient crap, destroyed in the testing. A few bits tie Jessica's kayak to the car or the railing of the boat. Some remains in a basket, waiting some future purpose. Most puzzling was the new dock lines that were herniated and ruined in the washing process. I had 100 feet of new, soft 1/2-inch nylon dockline that simply had a tangled core. I pulled the core out--it slipped out in seconds--and played with both parts,  the core and the cover, while watching a DVD; something to keep the hands busy. Separated, the cover is loose and and easy to splice, it became a game to see what could be done and to think of a use. Toys for sailors.

The core was pitched. Other than recyclable fiber, I couldn't dream a purpose. To loose and snag prone.

The core was removed from the eye half of the line, left in for the stopper portion (ashley stopper knot).

The cover is another matter. It's a sort of webbing, or a very hollow single braid rope, super-easy to splice. Just screwing around, sitting on the boat one evening while watching "Cast Away" for the 10th time, I found myself making sail ties from this, a sort of strop. It  felt old school and relaxing... and they are the best ties I have found.

• The material is soft and easy on the sails. 
• A bury splice is fast and easy with no core; just a few stitches lock it. 
• The eye is just large enough to pass an ashley stopper, which is nice and square and never slips out. 
• The flattened profile of the hollow braid grips the stopper knot better than round rope, without need for an overly tight eye. 
• The pointed tail makes threading them simple; I can take put them on or take them off in the dark with gloves on, in moments.
• There is no hard buckle or bozo ball to step on.
• There is no knot to seize-up after wet dry cycling.
• They are not adjustable (you can move the knot, of course), but if made to fit there is no need.

Try it. It seems wasteful, just using the cover, but short bits of used rope should do. Normally old rope cannot be spliced, but I think you'll find the cover alone is different. A different spin on strops.

I swear, I'm not that cheap. These really work best for me! Well, maybe I am.

Soft shackles are hardly new.

note 11-15-2012.
Still may favorites after Hurricane Sandy. used to secure sails, tarps and some other deck items, none budged and none jammed.

note 7-22-2024
And adjustable version, copied from a rigger on a tall ship. Easily made for free from old double braid covers. Basically a string of brummel locks with a stopper knot on the end. The ashley stopper knot is made large by leaving the core in the last bit. This one secures the tail end of my mainsail cover. The adjustability makes up for slight differences in flaking.

 

 

 

Marking Chain

Knowing how much rode you have out is essential to proper anchoring. Before I had a windlass, using an all-fiber rode, I would measure it out as deployed, counting the fathoms by arm span. I can time the windlass (about 6 feet per second) but I always lose count. I tried the traditional bits of twine and the more modern approach of cable ties, but my windlass hates anything attached to the chain. Twine would jam on the stripper and cables ties were sheared off cleanly after a few cycles, the broken bits causing jams. The most obvious Solution was paint.

But how to mark 100 feet of chain on-deck without making a mess?

• Flake out the chain in even loops. In this case, 10-foot lengths fit across the tramp.
• Pick marking points and temporarily mark with tape. I chose 25, 50, 75, and 100 feet.
• Collect a box from the dumpster, notch it as needed, and paint away. Plain-old Rustoleum or anything similar will hold-up for years; it chips going through the windlass but remains visible between the links.
• Just leave the box on-deck until your next visit, to make sure it's dry. No rush.

Easy, fast, and neat. I painted the chain on the deck in a light breeze with no real risk of over-spray mess.

My 100-foot mark is long because I like to keep the splice off the windlass. Ever since I changed to the Irony Splice it passes just fine, but it's easy to attach the bridle if I stay on the chain.

Salon Window Covers: First my PDQ and then my F-24

rev. 11-26-2010

Ultra violet is the enemy of polycarbonate, and I have noticed some minor crazing on my windows. Infrared is the enemy of air conditioning, delivering BTUs I can't get rid of. Sunbrella lasts 20 years (with re-sewing every 5 years) in my experience, so I sewed up some covers that snap on and off in moments. I'll be honest; I poached the idea from a Gemini owner.

Simply replace alternating screws with snaps and hem the Sunbrella to cover the space. The windows are secured by adhesive and the screws serve no structural purpose after the adhesive cures. I suppose I could have made this in just 3 parts instead of 9 parts, but smaller parts seemed simpler to make and have proven more versatile. I could have gone for a tighter fit, but I didn't want to worry over shrinkage, though with Sunbrella this is a minor concern.

A few tips:

• If the screw-snaps don't bite well, glue them in with 3M 5200. It is enough, will bed them, and they will still come out with a screw driver. The original screws on the PDQ were #10 but I could not find snaps larger than #8 nor figure out a reasonable way to fabricate them. I reason that the adhesive is what holds the windows and that the screw were only for installation. 
• Always lube the snaps with some spray lube like Corr-Block or Bo-Shield. Repeat several times per year. The difference is incredible.
• Patterns can be made using freezer paper. Just trace the window and poke a tiny hole in the center of each screw that will become a snap. Allow for the hem. Some people prefer a vinyl edging, as Sunbrella is a pain to hem around curves. However, in my experience the vinyl lasts about 1/2 as long as the Sunbrella, so we did the hems.  You can also buy Sunbrella as an edging or tape. 
• Sail Rite has the best prices on the snaps and fabric.
• This, from a sailor who tried Phifer-Tex instead of an opaque material, so that they would be see-through: "We used this and now will be replacing the windshield as the weave has left it's imprint, making visibility difficult. The windows were due anyway, but this accelerated the process and the weave is clearly visible in the plastic." Phifer-Tex is a plastic coated mesh, commonly used for cushion covers and sun shades; it is excellent in those applications. 
• Laundering the covers a few times a year and waxing the windows at least once per year also helps. I'm too lazy to wax the boat, but waxing the windows is well worth the time in terms of longevity and clarity.
• Label them with Sharpie, Bow Center or Starboard Aft, as needed. Always put the label in the same corner (top right).

rev. 7-21-2024

This spring I replaced the windows on my F-24, and in the interest of keeping them new, I made similar covers. 

 This time there was no sewing involved.  

• Cut the covers about 1-inch oversize.
• Glue/laminate a second layer around the perimeter, about 2 inches wide, using polyurethane sealant (I used Locktite PLS30).
• Trim to size.
• Pound in grommets to mach the snaps you installed. I used the same type snaps I did above, but YKK SNADS are another options. The laminated margin will hold the grommets and prevent fraying. 

YKK Snad. They are self-adhesive and are available in a variety of types. The all-plastic ones are best for attaching window covers.