Broken Boat Hook = Outboard Tiller Extention

The first time I tried this trick it was on a Nissan 18 hp on my Stiletto 27. This time for a Merc 3.5 on my tender. And it's made from something every body has or can find leaning next to the dumpster. A broken boat hook.

The raw material was a Garelick pole that was intentionally destroyed during destructive testing for a magazine article. The only tool was a hack saw. Pretty basic.

The tiller extension did NOT cause that scratch. Just a weird coincidence. I like to have it just long enough that I can reach it behind my back if sitting on the seat facing forward. If it came up beside me it would limit my ability to turn.

Although technically "rod holders," more often these PVC tubes are used to keep other things, like paddles and this extension, out from under foot. 

The nice thing about free is not just that it saves money. A few months ago I dropped the prior extension (also from a salvaged boat hook) overboard; knowing it cost nothing made it less stressful. I just had to wait to a fractured pole to show up at my doorstep.

European Paddle vs. Greenland Paddle

For an old guy, Greenland paddles win.

A Euro paddle blade is leaf-shaped, nearly half as long is it is long. Or rather that is what we have come to accept as normal and 21st century. It is superior for whitewater kayaking and racing, where it provides a positive, even harsh grab on the water.

But over the years I've run into folks using Greenland paddles with their sea kayaks.  Though the urban legend is that they were long and slim because that is the only thing they could make from drift wood, when you consider the craftsmanship that goes into a skin-over-frame kayak, that sounds like lame reasoning; these people could craft anything from a few bits of wood and sinew, and in fact, they used broad paddles in other craft. They developed what we now call the Greenland paddle because it has some unique advantages.

These are works of art. Mine was fashioned from a 6' x 3/4" x 3 1/2" (a common 1 x 4) board and a center of aluminum tube in a few hours, and probably performs better.

The length is about the same--a little less than 8 feet. The blade in only 1/2 the width of a Euro paddle, but the length of the blade is over double, resulting in greater projected area. Because it is not scooped like the Euro paddle, the catch is much softer, and it does not generate as much instantaneous power. However, because it has a higher aspect ratio, it actually creates greater lift once the stroke is underway.

1. Lighter. My Greenland paddle is 25% lighter than my fiberglass Euro paddle.
2. More buoyant for rolling. 
3. More lift when used in a sweep stroke for rolling or bracing, because of the higher aspect ratio.
4. More resistance and better grip on the water at mid-stroke.
5. Smoother catch and release.
6. Easier on the wrists, shoulders, and elbows.
7. Quieter.

It was "1" and "6" that caught me attention. Although it does not provide the same acceleration, it is faster through the water over the long haul, easier on the body, and significantly lighter. I'm still not used to the look, but it is more efficient over a long day.

Downsides? A few, but they are minor.

1. Harder to buy. But you can make them rather easily. They don't need to be laminated and beautiful.
2. Not as much blade in the water in shallows. But you can use a shallow, more horizontal stoke.
3. Most designs do not feather, but that can be fixed by incorporating an adjustable ferrule. 
4. Typically the shaft is fatter (1 1/2-inch vs. 1 1/4-inch standard or 1 1/8-inch small). Hand size and whether you wear thick gloves (a smaller paddle works better with thick gloves) may dictate which is better, but I find the fatter shaft is harder on my wrist and hands. Personal preference enters in. 
5. Learning a new stroke. Where a Euro paddle is simply pulled, the smoothest and most powerful stoke on a Greenland  paddle is delivered by a gliding pull with the blade moving at an angle, as when swimming the crawl efficiently. The blade is high aspect and generates a lot of lift when moving sideways. the stoke is also lower angle.

Feather. Most sea kayakers adopt a feathered paddle after some experience. By angling the blades about 60 degrees relative to each other, even when the arms cross between stokes, the wrists remain in a neutral plain, never flexing. The key is to pick a control hand that grips the paddle, and to let the shaft rotate in the other hand during the cross over. The non-control hand need never grip the shaft tightly. Gloves help.

Whitewater paddlers often use an non-feathered paddle--it can be problematic to keep track of the twist angle when paddling rapidly or throwing out a quick brace stroke. I use zero feather in technical whitewater.

Greenland paddles are typically not feathered, because a more shallow stroke is used, minimizing wrist flex, and by tradition. Many paddlers find an non-feathered paddle easier to roll, because similar to the whitewater case, they don't have to remember the feather angle. However, I have wrist problems and really like feather, although less than the traditional 60 degrees used with Euro paddles. My Greenland paddle is feathered only 30 degrees.

It's  little ugly, but by using aluminum tubing in the center I dropped the weight to about 65% of a common paddle and gave it 30 degree feather.  I am wondering if less or even no feather might be best for Greenland paddles. It may be a matter of learning a new stroke.

Where can you get a Greenland paddle? First, make you own. There are many on-line sites with instructions, and if you are handy in the wood shop, a basic paddle won't take much over an hour or cost more than $5 to make. You can buy them, of course, but artwork and craftsmanship cost money.

If you want adjustable feather or a Greenland paddle that can be broken down for storage, Duckworks sells carbon fiber ferrules for ~ $25. This also makes it possible to create feather. Duckworks offers two ferrule options:

• Standard. Allows for O degree, 60 degree right, and 60 degree left feather. The shaft is 30.6mm (1 1/4-inch), which is generally considered standard for kayak paddles.
• Greenland. There is no allowance for feather, although you can obviously mount the ferrule with some rotation to create a fixed feather angle. The shaft is 38.6mm (1 1/2-inch), the traditional fatter Greenland paddle diameter. 

Additional holes (you drill em') can create custom feather angles.


This is the elegant way to do it [details on Duckworks]. Add a slightly longer center section and 30 degrees of feather, and this is my dream paddle!

Better Purchase for Dinghy Davits

rev. 12-10-2011

Hoisting a dinghy with the engine in place can be a real chore near day's end - more so when the stock pulley arraignment is only 3:1 and the cleating arraignment is primitive. On my PDQ 32 it is also frequently necessary to coddle and wiggle the dinghy into place and make little minor lift adjustments. It's 9-foot length only just fits between the hulls.

Better, add real engineered purchase with cam cleats so you can pull a bit at a time, leave the engine mounted (secured to the dinghy, of course), and even have a child help. Do remember when lacing the 6:1 blocks that they require a peculiar 90 degree lacing pattern to keep the friction low:


The blocks are Harken  (triple w/cam and becket and a plain triple) and the line is 1/4-inch.

Also note the spreaders used to get the bow of the tender as high as possible. I later switched to aluminum wire gate climbing carabiners, as they are easier to use and more dependable.

Tricing-up is also a good idea, in any sort of waves or if the boat will be unattended.

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Easy Mooring with a Dinghy on the Davits

rev 10-20-2009


The prior owner always kept the dinghy on the deck, since they found no simple way to tie between pilings with it still on the davits; on many catamarans if you connect dock lines to the stock cleats in standard criss-cross practice, they pass right through the dinghy.

The conflict in space is resolved using a short lanyard to deflect the line down and away from the dingy. All of the parts come from the local rock climbing store. As a mountaineer from way-back, they all came from my too-worn-to-climb pile.

The carabiners should be the wire gate type. The conventional biners in the first photograph soon locked up with corrosion and was replaced with a wire gate biners. Wire gate biners are handling the marine environment without corrosion or ill effect. I do feel it is important to use climbing biners because the are MUCH lighter than stainless marine biners, which prevents banging on the hull and gel coat damage. They carry the same 4500-pound strength rating.

Replace the washer under the one of the nuts securing the transom hand rail with a stainless bolt hanger. The nice thing about bolt hangers is that they require only a single (often pre-existing) bolt, are 5600-pound test with a 3/8-inch bolt, and are available in 316 stainless for just a few dollars. Very handy on boats, I have 10 installed, assorted places. Add a 1/4-inch quick link, a 6-inch webbing sling, a carabiner, and wrap the rough parts in 2" hollow nylon webbing to prevent chafe and guard against UV. Neat, durable, and mightily strong.Also a handy tow point for kayaks and dinghies.

How much force? I took a bunch of load cell measurements at the dock in moderate and storm conditions a few years ago. I also did this on bulkheads.

 PDQ Altair 32/34