Not all Winterizing Products are the Same

3-2014

As part of an up-coming Practical Sailor article I tested the anti-corrosion properties of a number of leading winterizing agents:

The test rig...

 

Ethanol Based                                  Glycol Based

The coupons after 2 months...

The left hand column, all ethanol-based.

1. Water
2. Vodka
3. I won't tell... just avoid ethanol.
4. I won't tell... just avoid ethanol.

 The right hand products I like, all propylene glycol-based. I forget the order, but they were all perfect.

1. Starbrite
2. Camco
3. Pure Oceans
4. Sudbury Marine
5. Southwind/Dow Frost

The clear point is not to be a cheapskate. Stay with something reputable, and stay with glycol.

The best chafe sleeve, and why a cover is NOT a chafe sleeve.

After a little more time spent with the chafe machine, a champion emerges. as well as the observation that weave is as important as the material.

What? Being Spectra is not enough? A it turns out, there is an enormous difference between braided covers and tightly woven tubing. In fact, our lowly nylon tubular webbing typically out-wears Dyneema and Kevlar rope covers. No wonder we have been so happy with our experience using nylon webbing as a chafe cover for docklines.

Top to bottom:

New England Rope ARC. 10 minutes against grindstone.

New England Rope Dyneema Chafe Sleeve. 10 minutes against grindstone.

For reference:

New England Rope Regatta Braid. 1 minute against grindstone.

New England Ropes StaSet (not pictured). About the same as Regatta Braid.

9/6-inch 7x19 rigging wire parted in 13 minutes.

But I hadn't tested nylon webbing in the same run, or plain Amsteel...

Top. ARC, as before.

Center. Plain Amsteel, Dyneema Sleeve, 9/16" nylon tubular webbing, all for 10 minutes.

Lower. Regatta braid, 1 minute, as before.

Notice that the nylon webbing outwore the high-tech cover by a mile (it's still running, at just over 30 minutes, and not through)! Notice that plain Amsteel is 30% through the first yarns, worse than the webbing.

Which is not to take anything away from this Dyneema webbing sleeve that wears like iron. Wow.

Before we question why New England Ropes even make the cover material, realize they serve a different purpose. ARC makes a nice cover, holding in jammers, minimizing core slip, and not stiffening the line. The Spectra sleeve and tubular nylon does none of these things. All it does is wear hard.

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But this was all tested dry. What about the effect of water? We retested the same materials, and ...

I've never really thought too much about nylon chafe when wet, since it didn't apply to my experience; my mooring lines are well-protected, my anchor rode is chain, and my bridle rigged from cleats with good chafe protection (I suspect this is generally less of a problem for cats--we must always use bridles, but they are easier to rig chafe-free).

Wet vs. Dry Chafe
(2 reps each, only a few minutes variation)

Material                                    Wet vs Dry      Time to Chafe Through
Nylon webbing                          Dry                   45 min.
Nylon webbing                          Wet                   14 min.
NER Dyneema chafe sleeve      Dry                    50 min.
NER Dyneema Chafe Sleeve     Wet                   40 min.

I expected a difference, but 3x caught me by surprise. It is more than a simple change in strength, probably beyond simple analysis. I need to see how much difference Maxijacket makes; there are applications like chain-to-rope splices where Dyneema's not an option. I'll also expand this to include ropes and polyester.

The nylon webbing still makes sense many places, where availability in large sizes and price matter. For comparison, the cover on a typical line fails in 1-3 minutes.

Use it up, wear it out...

Rev. 8-14-2024

... make it do, or do without.

I love projects put together from the left-overs pile.

This boat hook and fishing rod holder was cobbled together for nothing from some scraps of line and a
heavy aluminum channel that used to reinforce the inside of a fuel oil tanker. A few minutes with a port-a-band, grinder, and drill press made for a holder that should outlive the boat. Most of the time I simply through the hooks on the tramp, and they've stayed there in near-gale conditions though bouncing quite a lot, but sometimes it still seems worthwhile to tame them a bit, or simply to give them a proper place.

Like wise this chain lock came from scrap channel.


My pilot berth came from a leftover shelf.

My kayak tie-off points were purchased bolt hangers, sure enough, but at only $2.75 each and the bolts were salvaged from shaft zincs found lying in the yard, since I don't have shaft zincs on outboards.

This immensely strong genoa sheet came with the boat. Must have, since Kevlar core went out of fashion some years ago... for good reasons. Kevlar will fail from fatigue far below its rated strength if bent to sharply or flexed to often. I have used Kevlar core halyards for many years without trouble; they are sized for stretch not strength, they pass over long radius wire rope blocks, and there is little motion. However, when used as a genoa sheet at high load, secured to the clew with a cow hitch, and occasionally allowed to flog while furling, the fibers crack. In a 15 knot breeze the core let go, leaving only the badly sunburned sheath to carry the load. How it came to fail internally without snapping completely is something of a misery to me; just the right combination of winds and flogging such that it gave up from fatigue when the load was not actually great. I cut the line at the failure and sailed home with bowlines; after all, it's not worn out yet.

Note the thin spot to the left--the core is failed and bunched up to the right. The failure was right at the tack, where the rope exited the knot. This is NOT the highest stress location in the knot, that is always the first turn. It was the harsh flexing while flogging that did it.

This sheet--and a second genoa sheet for my new inside track--came from discarded halyards in the marina recycle bin.

This tablet holder was cobbled together in an hour from the might-need pile. very light and a better fit than anything I could find on the web; custom for my tablet.

• 2-ball joint mount from my first car phone (before pocket cell phones, before I got married) about 25 years ago. When I sold the car I kept it, thinking it might make a good GPS mount. A good solid annodized aluminum model.
• 4mm water proof glued plywood scrap.
• Scrap aluminum angle. Just the right depth.
• White spray paint left over from the kitchen remodel (repainted all the hinges).
• Assorted saved screws and machine screws.

My electronics are comically out of date but the they work and I'd be satisfied with map and compass. That's how I learned.

At first glance, without my glasses, this WW II poster bothered me.

I've certainly restitched the dodger and sail cover a few times each.

I've never bought line for a bridle or snubber; there is always some retired anchor rode. Same for dock lines; I either splice some up or... I've found there are folks that will throw away barely used lines if one of the matching set gets rubbed.

My dingy under-the seat-box is a milk crate. Takes the strain off the tubes, holds a few things, never rusts, and was found on a beach.


Towels and the like come from home cast offs. If I use one to mop out the bilge, no one cares.

And then there are a thoughts that fall under the general heading "Cheap Boat Keeping."

Most of use would rather put money in our 401-K or the kids' college fund than pour it in the water. I spread my maintenance funds thin as paint, using every trick I've learned over the years. It helps that my dad is a painter (watercolor artist, but also a house painter in college), my grandfather was a mechanic, and I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked around chemical plants for years. Perhaps some of these ideas will be of use to others.

1. Use your engine. Never let it sit for over a month in the winter; the lube needs to circulate and the electrics need to dry. Run it enough in the summer to turn the fuel over a few times each season; we change the oil twice each year, so why would we expect the gasoline to last longer? Engines don't wear-out so much as deteriorate from disuse. I've done lots of fuel testing in my "real" job, so I'm neither quoting from a book nor guessing.
2. Cleanout every locker twice each year. You'll find stuff and reduce repeat buying. You'll gain space and stow things smarter. You'll save weight and clutter by pitching old rubbish or at least taking it home. It will remind you to maintain a few things. Remember, carrying junk costs $20/pound.
3. Save bits and pieces of materials. Some aluminum or FRP plate, a bit of stainless tubing, some left over wire, scraps of good wood, a bit of gasket material, and leftover old fasteners; never old junk parts, but bits that might be found in a hardware store or West Marine. Keep it neat.
4. Learn sail repair (hand work). A stitch in time saves nine. Really.
5. Find a good thrift store, one that carries some marine stuff but doesn't realize it. Small towns near the water. Also a great source for Gore-Tex foul weather gear; mostly the sorters don't know the difference between a worthless windbreaker and the real deal.
6. Stay at a working marina. Often 1/3 the price of a recreational marina.  Also look for houses with a few unused slips out back, or maybe a rusted up marine railway.
7. Use a good 2-year bottom paint.
8. Learn painting and composite repair. Really, you can be very efficient with these things, given the proper tools and some practice. I figure I save a good $100/hour pre-tax; I've learned speed and quality over the years.
9. Get a book book on marine wiring. Buy a good ratchet crimper. I'm an engineer by trade, which is a good start. However, even if you only apply your knowledge to troubleshooting, it's a blessing when somewhere remote. Do professional quality work the first time or you'll lose reliability, endanger your boat when you're away, and mostly do it over some day.
10. Anchor out. Even if it means adding solar and upgrading a few things, you can save $50-$150 per night. Enjoying increased freedom is priceless.
11. Waterproof grease. Electrical connections and anything that comes apart. Teflon pipe dope is good too, particularly where aluminum meets stainless.
12. Watch chafe and wear. Lines--running and mooring--can last for many years if you don't let them rub or slap.
13. Stay in the water all winter. Of course, this depends on the area--not practical in the Great Lakes--but for most of us it's a great saver. The season can be stretched, and the boat suffers less disuse, the hauling and storage fees go away.  You will need a good 2-year paint.
14. Learn small engine repair. They're really simple. Even if all you learn to do is change plugs, rebuild a carburetor, and change the impeller, there's real savings and less chance of being stranded. You'll need some tools and parts, of course.
15. Fish! It's free and nothing is better.

In 25 years of boat ownership, I've only used contractor services for:

• Major sail work and new canvas.
• Hauling. But I do the painting and hull work!
  

As a result, I know my boat inside out; that's a good feeling and an important part of seamanship.

Testing of Stitched and Seized Eyes

11-15-2013, rev. 12-31-2013, rev. 8-5-2024

A few weeks ago I posted that stitching and seizing an eye was a viable alternative. I've had stitched eyes outlast the line and no failure, but given the high load on the genoa sheets, I though some back-up calculations were in order. I broke out and old rock climbing gear testing rig and did some breaking.

All testing with used 1/2-inch Sta-Set polyester double braid. All tension figures refer to a sewn or stitched eye. Stitching was hand work, round stitching with sail makers needle and doubled 50-pound waxed whipping twine, about 3/16" apart and about 25% of the distance to the rope centerline, staggered slightly. All seizings were hand tight (about 1-pound, allowing for slippage) and side-by-side, about 40 per inch. Three trials of each fabrication, the minimum of which was used for all calculations. The whipping twine was tested to confirm the 50-pound rating. The angle formed by each eye where it was slipped over a beefy eye was 20-30 degrees; certainly realistic. If for some reason a wider angle is needed, a sturdy throat whipping is in order, with sufficient thread count to keep the throat closed. On 1/2-inch line this should amount to about 25 turns, or a 1/2-inch whipping, just to be safe. However, we did not use a throat whipping during the stitched eye trials.

Rounds Stitching on the Outside Quarter. At 4500 pounds tension a maximum of 9 round stitches on each side (total of 18) of doubled 250 pounds per round stitch (2 passes of doubled twine) . At 2000 pounds 4 stitches on each side (total of 8) also carried 250 pounds per round stitch. This is with the end of the thread unsecured (I cut the last stitch with a razor knife) to simulate wear. Over 8 trials, the variation per stitch was less than 10 pounds. Each time the failure was abrupt, the line only slightly distorted around the stitches, and no line damage resulted even from repeated stitching and testing to failure. Thus, I have no reason to believe that the the eye should be significantly less than 100% line strength; probably 90% like most splices. I will test some smaller line to failure to confirm this.

This works out to 62.5 pounds per strand or about 125% of thread strength. Some of the load is carried by friction around the eye and some by line to line friction, while at the same time the angle of the stitches increases stress. Anyway, it all works out to 62.5 pounds per strand. Thus, 20 round stitches on each side of doubled 50 pound line should give a failure strength = 80 passes *2* 62.5 = 10,000 pounds. A nice safety factor. Hard to believe on a gut level, but watching those few stitches holding 4500 pounds set the mind at ease and proves the engineering.

Stitching Through the Core. This time I simply ran  a plain stitch through the core about every 1/4-inch. Over the course of 3 trials up to 2500 pounds, the result was the same; 50-60 pounds per strand. Advantages or disadvantages? On smaller line, 5/16-inch and smaller, this is easier and perhaps less likely to damage the line. However, the problem is the distance needed for the required number of passes. Assuming we sew two lines, rotating the rope 90 degrees, the maximum stitch count is 16 per inch of line or 800 pounds of holding per inch. The second pass can be difficult (the line is compressed) and could be damaging (the fibers are more likely to be cut by the needle, as they cannot move out of the way). Neglecting that factor and ignoring the last 1/2-inch or line....

• 1/4-inch, 2000 pounds:    3 inches
• 5/16-inch, 3000 pounds:  4.25 inches
• 3/8-inch, 4000 pounds:    5.5 inches
• 1/2-inch 8000 pounds:   11.1 inches

So for larger line this gets a bit impractical; my Warp Speed sheets I would need 28 inches of stitching! Of course, they can be combined. Sew the center line first, as the line will be compressed if the edges are sewn first and the needle very difficult to pass through.  A positive is that the stitches pull down into the weave and are thus partially protected from abrasion. If the tail is to be tapered to keep it smooth, a few round stitches will be need to hold the cover down.

Myths:

• The failure of one stitch due to wear can cause zippering. Not true. In fact, in some cases, aft the eye would not break at the full capacity of the test rig (5ooo pounds) I would cut stitiches with a razor until it did fail.While this reduce the average load per stitch to some extent (20-30%), they were still immensely strong. the first example (18 stitches at 4500 pounds) was obtained after cutting excess stitches away under load!
• Pre-compression with clamps or basting down the center helps. Nope, not what we found. As stitching progresses the rope gets quite compressed (round stitches do that). Pre-compression makes it very difficult to get the needle through and results in more fiber damage.
• Even stitch tension is vital. Nope, I'm not a machine and I don't do particularly neat work. While we didn't go around leaving slack in the stitches,  an obvious corollary of the stitch cutting experiment is that moderate tension variation doesn't matter. The waxed twine merely slides a little, like a lashing, and the stress is still carried evenly.The zig-zag shape of a round stitch probably promotes this, one of the reasons a zig-zag is always used in sails, even back in the hand stitching era.

Seizing.
Plain Seizing. Surprisingly, seizing was very hard to quantify. It seems to depend very strongly on the surface of the rope and it seems clear to me that it made more sense on the 3-strand rope of old, where the strands could lock together.

Since the seizing were drawn up about 1 pound with 40 passes per inch, about 80 pounds per inch of

Pre-load. On the other hand, the line shrinks under tension, so there is probably no actual preload.

Instead of counting strands I measured the length of the line-touching-line seizing. The failure was not The force to start sliding varied from 800 pounds per inch of seizing, so a 2 inch seizing should hold about 1600 pounds as a loop. Apparently not much additional clamping force is generated by the strain as the load comes on. Not much value here, compared to stitching. Perhaps the value of seizing was different back in the day of laid natural fiber ropes, but now it is more a matter of protecting the stitching and perhaps reducing fatigue; it would keep stress off the stitching at stress below the point of sliding.
by breaking but by sliding, so there is no point in using heavier thread for strength (UV and abrasion are another matter).

Would a second layer of seizing help? Mostly a second lay prevents abrasion and UV damage. That is the way the old-time sailors saw it.

What about shrinkage with wet dry cycles? That is the greater concern, as a loose seizing is undependable.

And yet, I have used seized-only eyes a few places for many years. Why no failures? I seriously doubt they ever saw stresses above the sliding point. In fact, one of the lines I tested with was an old seized bridle line and it held without apparent strain to 4500 pounds. There were 3 inches of seizing,which brought the capacity to 2400 pounds, plus there some stitching under the seizing, used to hold things tight while working. The 2 acting together shared the load, most likely never passing 50% capacity, and the construction probably matched the breaking strength of the line. Knowing what I do now, I would have added more stitches!

An historical note: 1/2-inch hemp rope had a breaking strength of 2350 pounds. 3-4 seizing totaling 3 inches would have constituted a 90% efficient termination and could have been used make exactly shaped eyes, and tarred and made with linen thread, would have lasted as long as the line. They knew what they were doing. It just does not apply to double braid.

Wracked Seizing. 
I went back a few weeks later and tried a wracked seizing. In this case, instead of simply wrapping the line , the wraps for a figure-8 around the twin strands. I tried #4 whipping twine, #8 whipping twine, and mason's twine (equivalent to #16 unwaxed whipping twine; 1/12 of line diameter is generally recommended (1/2-inch Staset), in this case, #8 whipping twine. No change, it slid at 800 pounds/inch. Perhaps wracking turns made a difference with laid rope, they don't with double braid.

Note on photos, to right: The line broke right at it's rated strength, not at the knot (modified fugure-8), not at the splice, but in between. Both the splice and knot are very near line strength. Just 10 stitches and a small throat whipping held 2100 pounds. The knot is a modified figure-8.

 

Nylon rope is even more difficult to seize than polyester. The problem is that nylon shrinks when it stretches and the seizing comes loose. In fact, even seizing a nylon rope o protect stitching is difficult in high-load applications, because it comes loose when the rope is highly loaded. You could seize when the rope is under high tension, but it's easier to cover it with webbing  or even heavy duty heat shrink.

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The moral of the story? Stitched eyes can be quite strong and reliable. They are even quite forgiving of poor technique. They are far more common in industry than spliced eyes. However, they do not have the same abrasion and UV resistance and should be protected with chafe gear. Seizings look strong but are best thought of as protection for the stitching underneath.

Because of variability in stitching method and rope, and the greater exposure of stitched eyes to UV and wear, it is certainly good practice to apply at least 3x the calculated number of stitches. It's easy to and gives a margin for wear.

My stitched and whipped eye (100-pound Kevlar thread in this case) should have a strength near that of 1/2-inch Warp Speed (stitching and whipping = 25*4*(100/50)*62.5 + 3,000 = 15,500 pounds), although the winch would fail, clew pull out and forestay collapse long before that!

Can't Splice Old Line? Try a Sewn Eye.

rev. 10-27-2013, rev. 8-1-2024

Splicing is the gold standard for forming permanent eyes and joining lines; unfortunately used double braid generally lacks the flexibility required for splicing; the cover won't open and the core won't slide. Knots are a standard solution and work in most cases; yes, there is some loss in strength, but lines generally die from chafe and I can't remember having one fail at the knot, other than in testing. But sometimes there simply isn't enough space or a knot will snag.

Seizing is traditional and just as reliable as ever. I've seized a dozens of eyes over the years and never had a failure. I helps if you cover them for UV and chafe protection, but if the seizing is double layer like the old days, the outside layer is the UV protection and the inside layer holds the load. But seizings are long and stiff and can hang up, since the tail is neither covered nor tapered. So occasionally I use a hybrid sewn/seized eye. This isn't an idea I dreamed up, it is an old one that I read of many years ago in the New Glenans Sailing Manual. They also speak of stropes, the precursor to soft shackles.
  ____________________________________

First I remove about 1 1/2 rope diameters of core. This will allowed the end to be stitched down to create smooth taper. The New Glenans Sailing Manual calls for 3 1/2 to 4 rope diameters of core and I've got 4 1/2 diameters without counting the taper.

How much stitching is enough? Select a whipping twine that is 10-15% of the line diameter; for example, 7/16-inch line is about 11mm, so #10 whipping twine is a good match.  In this case I used 90-pound Kevlar this time, just because I had it and because it is about the same strength as #10 twine. Doubled that suggests about 12 round stitches on each side to reach 5000 pounds. Sure, it is not loaded in-line, but most of the load (about 35-55% in testing, depending on the roughness of the line) is actually carried by line-to-line friction, just as in a seizing. Also remember that due to friction of the eye around the shackle or fitting, the free end is only carrying about 25-35% of the load, depending on line stiffness. The results is that the stitching is only carrying a working load of about 1000*0.30*(1-0.45)=165 pounds and a line failure load of about 825 pounds (assuming 5000 pounds for aged 1/2" Staset); not nearly as demanding as you would guess and as usual, the splice is stronger than the line. The stitching is scattered so that some are in every part of the core.

Whipping Twine Summary

Twine Number        Diameter       Strength

#4                            0.4 mm         35 pounds

#8                            0.8 mm         70 pounds

#10                          1.0 mm         90 pounds

#15                          1.5 mm         130 pounds

(In retrospect Kevlar may be a  poor choice, given its poor performance in flexing applications. Although the stitching does not flex, more polyester twine might be more reliable.)

After stitching I add 2 seizings for good measure. The throat seizing is the important one, as it keeps the first row of stitches from getting over loaded.
(Skip the seizings; they add nothing and become loose as the line shrinks under load.)

(Crowd as much stitching into the first inch of the tail as possible if working with nylon; the nylon stretches so much under load that only the first inch carries any real load. Think about playing tug of war with a bungee cord. A double pass, center and edge, can be a good way to do this.)

Then cover it with something for UV and chafe protection. Heat shrink is fast and poor choice (doesn't last). Webbing is better in severe applications... like winching a sheet along a shroud.

The New Glenans Sailing Manual only calls for 3 1/2 to 4 rope diameters and I've got 4 1/2 diameters without counting the taper.

8-1-2024. The video demonstrates a slightly different method, called a sailmaker's eye. It is not quite as strong in lines larger than 1/2-inch, but it can be >90% strength in smaller lines and is more abrasion resistant for applications where it can't be covered. The clips were made for a Good Old Boat video.

  (Even though the load is carried in the first 3-4 diameters, pull testing shows that stitching in diameters 5-6 does contribute to splice stability. Just don't count those threads in the calculation; only those in the first 4 diameters.)

(Note: when I discovered the line was Warpspeed, 22,000-pound test, I added another solid layer of whipping. Also good for abrasion.)

Notice the strope in place of a shackle. Less steel to flog, removable, and as strong as the larger line because it is doubled.If the eye is small it can't fall out easily. The failure point is always the same; the loop cuts off the stopper knot.  

After just 2 days I learned that heatshrink is not enough, not when winched across a cable shroud. I also switched to Amsteel soft shackles (home-tied) for a bit more long-term security. That and the they fit the clew better; the yacht braid stropes worked fine and would no doubt last for years, but I really didn't have room for 2; the big knots would jam on each other. The yacht brain

strope would be fine for a single set of sheets.  
  

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 rev. 1-1-6-2014

I'm currently engaged in a much deeper exploration of the subject for an up-coming Practical Sailor article. I've learned more than a few things, a few highlights of which I have added above in RED.

Freshwater Tank -- Are Bugs Swimming the Back Stroke in There?

6-13-2014, rev. 8-1-2024

According to the plumbing code and AYBC, there should be a screen on the freshwater tank vent to exclude mosquitoes, other bugs and reduce dust. But many builders, including PDQ, leave these off.  On the PDQ 32 the vent line simply goes up and then down through a mushroom fitting under the bridge deck. Yup, I've seen bugs in there, so while I was up-grading my water system, I decide to fix this too.

Clean, huh? Though a strainer won't stop bacteria, it will reduce convective airflow.

The solution was to splice in a simple strainer. The code calls for 16 mesh, but no-see-ums are known to crawl through that, and 50 mesh is common anyway. This strainer is large enough to manage any air venting flow and serve as an over-flow too, though when filling fast, water will back out the fill even without the strainer in place.

Shurflo 255-323. Be warned, PDQ used 1/2" hose on 5/8" barbs. I stayed with the 1/2" hose (cleaned out the gook with a 1/4" rope, soaped up and fished back-and-forth a few dozen times--tie knots in the ends while you're scrubbing) and used a little K-Y to get it back on the 5/8" barb after cutting a fresh end. Great stuff for working with hose.

The PDQ is a catamaran and the pressure water system is located on the bridge deck, between the hulls. Thus, the tank vent actually discharges down, through the floor, about 20 inches above the water line.

A 15 minute fix. No more bugs. Fewer bacteria and mold spores. Mostly self cleaning, every time I over fill the tank, but also easy to clean and easily accessed. I suppose I should clean the tank one last time, but the new filter is doing great.

 

 Look what we found in the spring! Bugs that crawled in the vent.

 

And look what a dockmate found! A tree frog climbed in, and they had eggs coming out the galley tap! Extra protein?

 

Woodwork: the Finishing Bench and the Sea Chest

10-17-2012, rev. 8-1-2024

 

 Certain objects cry "nautical" from the first glance: A wooden ship's wheel, a brass lantern, wooden shell blocks. Not practical, though, and cliche on a modern boat. There are items we accept as functional and usual: a stitching palm, a life ring with the yacht's name, coach whipping on the wheel or tiller. And then there are half forgotten objects with real utility, in my opinion at least, underutilized.

 The Finishing Bench. Still used by traditional sailmakers, a simple bench holds the implements used for roping, adding a grommet, or mending. I made this one about 5 years ago from nothing but scraps and a little varnish, a very pleasant way to spend a few winter evenings. Mostly it sits by my favorite chair, holding magazines and what ever books I'm reading, but my stitching tools and materials are ever present on the far end. Yes, I catch a pant leg on the bench hooks now and then. But whenever sail work is required I carry it out in the front yard where it serves its traditional purpose very well. Smaller projects get sewn up right in my chair, reaching back for traditional tools and materials that are kept conveniently at hand.

No directions. I just followed an old illustration and fit it to the scraps I had. I suppose they were generally built that way, from bits and pieces.

• Cleats on the underside reinforce the legs.
• Numerous holes and vertical dowels on the cutting block secure spools of thread or hold knives and fids. Some holes only go part way through, holding needles and small things.
• Dowels angled just above horizontal on the cutting block end hold scissors, palms, webbing, thread, and a small ditty bag.
• Bench hooks need to be sharp, and it is handy to have 2 different lengths. These were bent from steel tent skewers.

 

 

That first step is about 30 inches.

Sea Chest. Although my boat has some cavernous lockers under the bunks and salon seating, there are never enough small lockers handy in the staterooms. Additionally, getting into the bunk is rather athletic, as the bunks are high and without steps. Additionally, a seating platform with storage blocks the way to the bunk, and it is at an unfortunately awkward height, far too high for putting on shoes. At first I built stools, but they were really too small and too single purpose. A small sea chest, fit to the space, is the perfect answer.

Though I didn't take any pictures of the construction process, anyone with the carpentry skills to make a box should be able to do just as well.

• Traditionally these were painted a muted color and only the inside of the lid would be decorated and bright. Paint best withstood hard knocks, and the interior decoration reminded the sailor that his chest was the one thing on board that was his. However, my wife liked it varnished--all of the reproduction examples I showed her on-line were varnished--and it works, I think. Perhaps I'll paint it later; if so, going from varnish to paint is more reasonable than the reverse process. Because I originally planned for paint, I made no special effort to hide fasteners; I focused on building it strong enough for regular use as a step. I think I like the utilitarian look.
• Strap hinges are traditional, but a piano hinge fits better, and I had a cut-off. I cut a recess for the hinge so that it closes perfectly, with no need for a chain and with all of the weight transfer directly to the sides.
• Be mindful of protruding hardware. While a few scratches didn't matter on a whaling ship, they do to us. For example, the handles were traditionally attached with exposed rivets, but I substituted counter sunk brass bolts. Same on the inside; nothing to snag on clothes. I smoothed all interior hardware with a Dremel tool.
• Side Relief. A characteristic of sea chests is that the sides lean inwards. The practical reasons for this only became obvious as I measured the intended space: if slammed against a bulkhead (ships move) the lid will still open and the handles are still accessible; they better resist tipping; there is less binding when push into or pulled from a tight space. The trim strip on the bottom also helps; it takes a beating and thus should secured with screws, not brads.
• Rope handles. Mine are boring. Starting with a bit of old 3/4-inch 3-strand line, I placed 2 whippings about 9 inches apart, unlaid both ends for about 3 inches, and pinched the strands between handle blocks and the chest sides (I had drilled 1/2-inch holes with the handle blocks clamped together, making half-round groves for each of the three strands), trimming the excess. Tape held the strands in in the groves while the bolts were tightened. Strong and compact enough to fit the narrow space I had to work with, but not fancy; I lack the marlinspike skills to do a proper job. However, even simple rope handles are strong, comfortable, and non-scratching.
• Square the sides up on a flat floor before screwing them together; you don't want a rocker. Likewise, true the lid to the top; otherwise the hinges will work loose in time. When working with scraps, never presume anything to be square or true.
• No latch. I didn't see the need for my purposes
• Hold down. In the stern of a catamaran the motion is never lively enough for the chest to move, but I can certainly imagine boats and places where this is not true.
• Lid cleats. These not only hold the 2 boards that make the lid together as one, they are also carefully tapered to lock the lid in place when close, transfer lateral forces when used as a step to the sides and away from the hinge. Remove the hinge and the closed lid does not shift, not a fraction of an inch.

 

Something more traditional

Tool Box. There is a window shelf outside the head that is of no particular use. Sometimes we keep shoes there. Because of the hatch, spray is always a possibility, limiting possible uses. Nothing tall that might block the hatch. I reason a light box I can pick up and move will find some purpose and stow some clutter. I like the semi-traditional look, it kind of works on a sailboat that is only semi-traditional; though sailing is by nature nostalgic, multi-hulls have to keep there distance.

A simple scrap lumber project, it is made of 3/4-inch pine and 1/4-inch ply. What will we keep in it? I won't know until we've been cruised with it for a while.

__________________

All from scraps. In the first example, I used a few boards that were left in the basement by the previous homeowner and a bit of left over shelf. The dowel was from a discarded seasonal decoration. In the second example, I salvaged a neighbor's old garage shelves and some line left over from a Practical Sailor testing article--the stuff we found under a dock and cleaned. The brass bolts--16 x #8 x 1 1/2"--were also left overs from a writing project--laboratory corrosion testing of gasoline anti-corrosion additives. I think that is the way these sailor's tools would have been made, from the bits and pieces. The finishing bench was free, the sea chest a $2.45 project (a bit of 1/4-inch plywood for the floor--I wanted something lighter than the scrap I had on hand). The tool box was even cheaper and quicker, though I took my time and finished it neatly and well. Very affordable.

A longer Lasting Joker Valve

11-30-2012, rev. 7-31-2024

Every sailor with a manual head knows that the joker valve is the check valve at the bottom of the head, the one that everything has to pas through, the one that must be changed every 1-2 years, and... the place you will find most clogs.


This time of year folks start talking about winterizing and what they pour in or how they drain out to prevent ice damage. Sometime I hear of things I know are damaging the head, and I just cringe. A resent letter-to-the editor of Practical Sailor got me thinking; we haven't reviewed joker valves and the details.

The Problem: Not all valves do well with chemicals, and few last as long as we'd like.

Don't worry; this will only happen if you use Lysol in the bowl... which a few people do.

 Also, some head treatments contain formaldehyde (stinky blue stuff) and will do the same thing if not well flushed. Ban these from your boat

This Jabsco valve (left) saw only waste and ethylene glycol and lasted 5 years. A valve in this condition actually leaks less than you would expect; although it is gaping, the lips are smooth and the back pressure holds them together. Occasional use of vinegar keeps the lime at bay. The head itself is 16 years old, though I replaced the pump assembly at 13 years (like new now).

First, all common joker valves are dimensionally interchangeable. Yup, Raritan, Jabsco, and Groco all use the same basic dimensions. However, they differ in some molding details and use different rubber compounds. The correlation, of course, is that their chemical vulnerabilities are different and that no single chemical compatibility list will cover all heads. Some are not compatible with vegetable oil, while some are. Some are not even compatible with propylene glycol, though the PG manufacturers would tell you their product is safe for everything.

Propylene glycol can be rough on other parts as well. While PVC and polyethylene do very well, my clear potable water strainer crazed in just 2 winters. Though they were good about replacing it, I just leave it off in the winter now.

Testing: So I lined up bottles in the lab, filled with common joker valves and common chemical concoctions. After 3 months I measured stiffness and leak resistance. And guess what; some were more compatible with winterizing chemicals than others. Some were more resistant to urine than others.

 Then I donated a bunch of valves to friends, both live-aboards and weekend sailors. I waited to hear which valves failed first, and which lasted for years.

Head Manufacturer    Material        Urine Compatibility      Durability (years)   Comments
Jabsco                        Neoprene       Excellent                           1-3
Raritan                       Nitrile            Good                                  2-5
Groco                         Nitrile            Good                                  2-5                     Hard to pump (stiff)
 

Solution: Raritan pH II valves fit Jabsco manual heads and last nearly twice as long. They withstand propylene glycol antifreeze without complaint. They fit perfectly. Yes, they do cost a few dollars more, but less in the long run, and who likes working on heads?

I still use ethylene glycol in my head (automotive antifreeze), even though the Raritan valve can handle it. Why? There are additional neoprene parts in the Jabsco head (flapper and o-rings), and I'm not really all that worried about anyone drinking out of my holding tank.

What about the flexible impeller pumps for raw water and potable water? Some of the raw  water pumps are nitrile and are thus immune to propylene glycol, but some are neoprene. After all, neoprene has a better flex life. There have been reports of PG damaging raw water impellers over the winter, ever since we bought into this well intentioned but wrong conventional wisdom that PG is better for the environment than EG (link). For this, I blow out as much of the PG and hope for the best. So far, so good.

Tip of the day? Winterize all non-potable systems with ethylene glycol.

Something Free, Something Lazy

Free is always good, except this is not quite free.

Or rather, it is free if you use any sort of holding tank treatment chemical.

 I've done all sorts of holding tank stuff for Practical Sailor Mag. Chemicals, hoses, vent filters. Fun stuff. And in the process, in addition to learning all sorts subtleties, I solved all of my own odor problems, save one; odor from the bowl itself. If I flush with seawater and leave it a few days, there's some stink; sulfate in seawater is converted to hydrogen sulfide by millions of wee bacteria. If I flush with fresh water, it's better, but not zero; I guess something sneaks back down the waste hose, or perhaps up the feed hose. And either way, the bowl tends to get ratty, as marine flush volumes are limited and the water isn't chlorinated. I hate scrubbing.

The free solution? Place a 20% solution of holding tank treatment in a spray bottle and mist the bowl down each day, or at least whenever you'll be leaving the boat for a while. This cleans the bowl, treats the water in the bowl, and treats the water in the waste hose, preventing stink. And since it's the same treatment you would be using anyway, just subtract this from the usual dosage.

 I haven't scrubbed in months; the treatment eats the waste off. Very lazy.

 
However, not all treatments work.

• No blue sterilizing treatments, with formaldehyde and the like. Toxic, smelly, stain-prone, and well... gross. Too much like a portable toilet. Very tough on joker valves. Ban those from your boat.
• No bacterial treatments, like Bactank T3 or Happy Camper. They grow in the bottle and get gross. They are quite effective in the tank, just not for this.
• Pick an scent you like, preferably very mild. I like Forespar Refresh, Raritan CP, and Camco TST Ultra-concentrate. These are compatible with any type of holding tank treatment, including bacterial treatments.

Less work. Less money.

Gasoline Additive Corrosion Testing

4-2016, rev. 7-2024

I've been playing mad scientist again, conducting laboratory corrosion testing experiments for Practical Sailor Magazine.

In my experience at least, corrosion products often foul carburetors, and I've learned how to field strip and clean carbs far too well. Can storage additives actually reduce corrosion? I ran some modified ASTM tests to see. Since I've done this for years with engine coolant samples in my day job, this was something I feel very comfortable with. The set-up and procedure is a bit different, but it's still familiar ground.

Standard metal coupons are exposed to e10 in varying conditions for 1 month. To induce galvanic effects they are grouped copper/steel/brass to simulate a tank system and steel/aluminum/brass to simulate a carb bowl.

The test bottles look like this.

 

After exposure, the sealed control looks like this.

Without an additive, with the addition of 0.03% seawater and allowing limited venting, we get this.The black spots are corrosion pits, not dirt.

With a good additive we get this--effectively no corrosion even with salt

And with a poor additive it can be even worse than with nothing at all

Not a realistic test? Actually just an acceleration. The pitting looks very much like this 12 -year old Yamaha 9.9 carburetor; I have 4 of them and they all look about the same, just like the aluminum coupons.

And the successful additives weren't always the ones you would guess or be led to believe by advertising and marine catalogs, not at all. Unfortunately, If I give more than a teaser, PS will strangle me.

I will share this:

• Without air and water there is NO corrosion by e10.
• Without saltwater the corrosion is very, very slow. If salt spray, even the TINIEST AMOUNT can sneak into you tank, you're going to have trouble within weeks. The effect was dramatic.
• One of the very best additives did NOT come from the boat store. The worst ones did. Go figure.

It turns out that the NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Association)has formed a working group to develop standards for gasoline additives. IT seems they have found that some are damaging their engines.

Tall Step Disease

3-30-2012, rev. 4-20-2018, rev. 7-31-2024

As the knees get older, steps get higher.  Last year, at the Annapolis Boat Show I was sitting on a 45-foot VERY expensive catamaran, along with a group of mature sailors who had the rocks to by said boat. It was VIP and Press Pass Day and there were a lot of well healed folks about. Across the dock was an even more expensive Gunboat 50. Very pretty.


I pointed out that these boats all had tall step disease. A standard step is 7 1/2" x  10", yet even on the largest cats where space  was no real concern, the step pitch measured 11" x 5", I suppose because it looked better. In conversation we also learned that fully 71% of our group had either personally or had a spouse go through knee surgery. Two artificial knees were displayed. My wife has an artificial knee, though she was resting it elsewhere, and I have had serious knee surgery. Are the boat builders so stupid--no, I don't think that is too strong a word--that they don't realize the buyers of these boats are either older or will soon become so?

Until now we have used the "runt box" you see under the helm seat. Honestly, only a 6'6" sailor can reach the floor while seated. We would move this box below the step, where it worked well. But while sailing it wasn't really available and often we didn't bother to move it.

Even younger sailors get worn down by big steps over the course of a long day--I can ride a bike 100 miles in 5 hours yet the steps get to me some days--and so I've been fighting my own battle, on a limited scale. The steps leading up from the cockpit are 14 inches and the steps down below are 11 inches.

I built these low stools (the cabin steps must fit under the swing of the bedroom doors) from scraps and a few squares left over from the cockpit floor project. Thus, they cost only a few hours and some left over materials. I don't think any real explanation is required for a carpenter to reproduce them. For the boat owner and tinkerer, hours spent making sawdust on small projects are not subtracted from out lifespan (yup, I bastardized that a bit).

 

 

4-20-2018. My F-24 had a similar problem, heading down into the cabin; a big step and a goo chance of hitting your head because of the motion when going down. You basically you had to do an 18-inch drop and my knee didn't like that, so I added a step, much as I had in my Stiletto 27. Step by step, largely from my Good Old Boat article:

 

Make an oak bracket that will fit a salvaged dinghy seat. The seat makes for a light and strong step with molded non-skid that looks reasonably factory. I sealed the foam core cut ends with epoxy and sanded smooth.

Peal back the carpet, remove adhesive, and sand.

 

Butter them up with thickened epoxy and bond. Screws secure them while curing.

 

Secure the carpet with contact cement.

 

Nearly done.

 

Much better and the recycled seat gives it a factory look. The step lifts out for access to storage under the cockpit.