Use it up, wear it out...

Rev. 8-14-2024

... make it do, or do without.

I love projects put together from the left-overs pile.

This boat hook and fishing rod holder was cobbled together for nothing from some scraps of line and a
heavy aluminum channel that used to reinforce the inside of a fuel oil tanker. A few minutes with a port-a-band, grinder, and drill press made for a holder that should outlive the boat. Most of the time I simply through the hooks on the tramp, and they've stayed there in near-gale conditions though bouncing quite a lot, but sometimes it still seems worthwhile to tame them a bit, or simply to give them a proper place.

Like wise this chain lock came from scrap channel.


My pilot berth came from a leftover shelf.

My kayak tie-off points were purchased bolt hangers, sure enough, but at only $2.75 each and the bolts were salvaged from shaft zincs found lying in the yard, since I don't have shaft zincs on outboards.

This immensely strong genoa sheet came with the boat. Must have, since Kevlar core went out of fashion some years ago... for good reasons. Kevlar will fail from fatigue far below its rated strength if bent to sharply or flexed to often. I have used Kevlar core halyards for many years without trouble; they are sized for stretch not strength, they pass over long radius wire rope blocks, and there is little motion. However, when used as a genoa sheet at high load, secured to the clew with a cow hitch, and occasionally allowed to flog while furling, the fibers crack. In a 15 knot breeze the core let go, leaving only the badly sunburned sheath to carry the load. How it came to fail internally without snapping completely is something of a misery to me; just the right combination of winds and flogging such that it gave up from fatigue when the load was not actually great. I cut the line at the failure and sailed home with bowlines; after all, it's not worn out yet.

Note the thin spot to the left--the core is failed and bunched up to the right. The failure was right at the tack, where the rope exited the knot. This is NOT the highest stress location in the knot, that is always the first turn. It was the harsh flexing while flogging that did it.

This sheet--and a second genoa sheet for my new inside track--came from discarded halyards in the marina recycle bin.

This tablet holder was cobbled together in an hour from the might-need pile. very light and a better fit than anything I could find on the web; custom for my tablet.

• 2-ball joint mount from my first car phone (before pocket cell phones, before I got married) about 25 years ago. When I sold the car I kept it, thinking it might make a good GPS mount. A good solid annodized aluminum model.
• 4mm water proof glued plywood scrap.
• Scrap aluminum angle. Just the right depth.
• White spray paint left over from the kitchen remodel (repainted all the hinges).
• Assorted saved screws and machine screws.

My electronics are comically out of date but the they work and I'd be satisfied with map and compass. That's how I learned.

At first glance, without my glasses, this WW II poster bothered me.

I've certainly restitched the dodger and sail cover a few times each.

I've never bought line for a bridle or snubber; there is always some retired anchor rode. Same for dock lines; I either splice some up or... I've found there are folks that will throw away barely used lines if one of the matching set gets rubbed.

My dingy under-the seat-box is a milk crate. Takes the strain off the tubes, holds a few things, never rusts, and was found on a beach.


Towels and the like come from home cast offs. If I use one to mop out the bilge, no one cares.

And then there are a thoughts that fall under the general heading "Cheap Boat Keeping."

Most of use would rather put money in our 401-K or the kids' college fund than pour it in the water. I spread my maintenance funds thin as paint, using every trick I've learned over the years. It helps that my dad is a painter (watercolor artist, but also a house painter in college), my grandfather was a mechanic, and I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked around chemical plants for years. Perhaps some of these ideas will be of use to others.

1. Use your engine. Never let it sit for over a month in the winter; the lube needs to circulate and the electrics need to dry. Run it enough in the summer to turn the fuel over a few times each season; we change the oil twice each year, so why would we expect the gasoline to last longer? Engines don't wear-out so much as deteriorate from disuse. I've done lots of fuel testing in my "real" job, so I'm neither quoting from a book nor guessing.
2. Cleanout every locker twice each year. You'll find stuff and reduce repeat buying. You'll gain space and stow things smarter. You'll save weight and clutter by pitching old rubbish or at least taking it home. It will remind you to maintain a few things. Remember, carrying junk costs $20/pound.
3. Save bits and pieces of materials. Some aluminum or FRP plate, a bit of stainless tubing, some left over wire, scraps of good wood, a bit of gasket material, and leftover old fasteners; never old junk parts, but bits that might be found in a hardware store or West Marine. Keep it neat.
4. Learn sail repair (hand work). A stitch in time saves nine. Really.
5. Find a good thrift store, one that carries some marine stuff but doesn't realize it. Small towns near the water. Also a great source for Gore-Tex foul weather gear; mostly the sorters don't know the difference between a worthless windbreaker and the real deal.
6. Stay at a working marina. Often 1/3 the price of a recreational marina.  Also look for houses with a few unused slips out back, or maybe a rusted up marine railway.
7. Use a good 2-year bottom paint.
8. Learn painting and composite repair. Really, you can be very efficient with these things, given the proper tools and some practice. I figure I save a good $100/hour pre-tax; I've learned speed and quality over the years.
9. Get a book book on marine wiring. Buy a good ratchet crimper. I'm an engineer by trade, which is a good start. However, even if you only apply your knowledge to troubleshooting, it's a blessing when somewhere remote. Do professional quality work the first time or you'll lose reliability, endanger your boat when you're away, and mostly do it over some day.
10. Anchor out. Even if it means adding solar and upgrading a few things, you can save $50-$150 per night. Enjoying increased freedom is priceless.
11. Waterproof grease. Electrical connections and anything that comes apart. Teflon pipe dope is good too, particularly where aluminum meets stainless.
12. Watch chafe and wear. Lines--running and mooring--can last for many years if you don't let them rub or slap.
13. Stay in the water all winter. Of course, this depends on the area--not practical in the Great Lakes--but for most of us it's a great saver. The season can be stretched, and the boat suffers less disuse, the hauling and storage fees go away.  You will need a good 2-year paint.
14. Learn small engine repair. They're really simple. Even if all you learn to do is change plugs, rebuild a carburetor, and change the impeller, there's real savings and less chance of being stranded. You'll need some tools and parts, of course.
15. Fish! It's free and nothing is better.

In 25 years of boat ownership, I've only used contractor services for:

• Major sail work and new canvas.
• Hauling. But I do the painting and hull work!
  

As a result, I know my boat inside out; that's a good feeling and an important part of seamanship.