Tandem Anchors IV -- the Wemar Anchor

This is a perfect example of what you get reading reviews in magazines that accept advertising. The month Wemar started advertising, Sail Magazine reviewed this bit of foolishness that does not function AT ALL, and nominated it for an award. Just pitiful.


In this test they pretend to show veering... but the secondary is not set and they have eased around very slowly. Shows nothing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l11rjDI9eSk
 




Then they show this video of retrieval. Notice that the primary never set, at all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-or9ByglfU


On the Web site they have only these 2 lovely failures:

This time the secondary is not set.

 

 And this time the Primary is not set, or rather I think it has tripped (it is off-line in the direction of the pull).

 
 
Why would you post 4 pictures of failure? Because they had no successes? Or is it because the target buyer has been identified as completely ignorant of anchoring? I do know why Sail Magazine nominated this for an award.

Magic

Is it any wonder that as children, humanity saw magic in the skies?

 

But wouldn't we have outgrown the need by now? I guess it's comforting.

The Folding Rule Method

Every spring, as masts are plopped back on decks, I see folks out there with rig tension tools. I hear folks complain that the tool does not cover the size they need. As an engineer that has been responsible for tuning structural cables up to 1 1/2-inch in diameter, we don't need no toy tools. This method works for ALL sizes, since stretch is a steady function of % breaking load. 

Yes. the tools are handy, particularly for fine tuning. For big wire, there are still other methods... but that is another chapter (hint: use a scale and pull to the side, using simple trig. On bridge wires we just use gravity and sighting.).

This specific wording is borrowed from Seldon Spars

_____

The following materials are required:

1. A 2 metre long measuring rod (a folding rule is recommended)
2. Adhesive tape
3. Vernier calipers

• Start with the cap shrouds only hand-tight. The rig is stayed with the lower shrouds and the forestay and backstay.

• Tape the upper end of the folding rule to the starboard cap shroud. The lower end of the folding rule must be approximately 5 mm above the upper end of the wire terminal.Measure the distance between terminal and folding rule exactly. This is index 0, let’s call it point A.

• Tension the starboard cap shroud until the distance is A + 1.5 mm between the terminal and the folding rule. Measure using the vernier callipers.

• Leave the folding rule attached to the starboard shroud, and move across to the port side and tension the shroud rigging screw the equivalent amount.

• At intervals, check the starboard side to see how much

the folding rule has moved from the end terminal. When there is a gap of A + 3 mm, the cap shrouds are tensioned to 15% of the breaking load of the wire (3 x 5% = 15%).

If the mast is not straight, adjust the lower shrouds, intermediate shrouds etc. There is more information on this in the chapter dealing with your rig type.

The folding rule method can be used on other stays, such as the backstay and forestay (without jib furling system). It can also be used for Dyform- or rod rigging, but please take the difference in stretch into account compared to 1 x 19 wire. 

______

Stretch per 2 meter at 5% of breaking load

1 x 19 wire                  Dyform                      Rod

                                       1 mm                     0.95 mm                  0.7 mm

Reefing a Blade Jib--A New Purpose for the PDQ Self-tacker?

I've never really liked the self tacking jib on the PDQ 32.

• Not enough power in light winds
• No shape off the wind (poor twist control--traveler needs to be semi-circular to work)
• Becomes fuller when rolled in stronger winds
• Does not feather well

While paddling around the harbor in Deale I saw this:

It is not a simple matter of adding reinforcement, reefing eyes, and a clew ring; this sail is much flatter. I also wonder that the big roll of reefed fabric won't ruin the airflow off the bottom, though the problem will be less if the foot adjustment is less. In my case, I probably would not change the hoist, as in this example, since I can still roll it up, but simply add a clew ring that would allow me to use my existing inside genoa leads.

And since I would rather not have to lower the sail to reef it... how in the heck do you tie up the bunt and attach the sheets? On the other hand, the clew should be about the same height as my genoa when rolled up just short of the mast, and I can just reach it from the cabin top. Certainly a short pendant would make it work.

Something to ponder. A simple project that would be synergistic with the 3rd reef in my main, the inside tracks, and longer transoms, improving strong wind weatherliness. A DIY project? I've designed and sewn sails before. Hmm...

Winter Hangs Tough

The Clocks have been changed. The days are longer. The average temperature is supposed to be in the 50s. So how come the Coast Guard has banned boating on the upper Bay until April 15 due to dangerous ice conditions, and the mouth of Deale harbor still has 4" of slushy ice clogging it?

So we return to our regular programming, which this February has featured ice climbing, several times each week.

Great Falls, VA. Just bouldering, really, but a convenient training ground close to home.

Deck Shoes for Ice

Just starting up. This one is tall enough for a rope. And the frozen river is a death fall.

 

Topping out while hoping the ice is good.

And some shots from White Oak Canyon

Not really sailing weather. Not for a few weeks at least. On the other hand, the engines start, no maintenance is needed beyond a quick oil change, and the season should start with a roar... as soon as the water gets a little softer. The spring thaw will also bring a torrent of freshwater, with tree trunks and debris sufficient to make the water hazardous for props for at least another week. The plus side of heavy snow melt is a light year for jelly fish and a late season for rockfish, and that is all good.

Dry Suit. The Ulimate in Foul Weather and Survival Gear?

Better than a Survival suit? That is the question Practical Sailor Blog asked this month. Conventional survival suits are so ungainly that sailing is impossible and they are not donned until the boat is headed down, often too late. A dry suit, on the other hand, offers the same or better agility and livability than conventional foul weather gear, with complete cold water protection (except for the head and hands). Since it can be worn while sailing, it offers protection you are more likely to have on.

But that isn't why I bought mine. Kayaking is one of my favorite activities, and once the water temperature drops below 60F, it become more and more difficult to dress safely. While I have never capsized (other than white water) on open water, there is always a hypothermia risk. Additionally, a dry suit makes reboarding from the water easier, because you avoid heavy, soaked clothing. Instead, you gain significant all-over buoyancy.

Not me. I'm much better looking.
Demonstrating the conversion from stand-by mode to fully sealed.

A favorite feature, and one that makes this suit (Ocean Rodeo Ignite) particularly suitable for sailors, is the standby mode. The pants are supported by suspenders and fit well, with attached socks. As shown in the above photo, the pants can be pulled up and the jacket zipped without put the head through the neck seal and zipping in, giving great ventilation. Converting to full seal takes only moments.

There are wrist seal, lotsa pockets, and a fly. The fabric is like a heavy duty 3-ply Gore Tex and seem very durable. The entry zipper is across the shoulders and doable alone (many drysuits require help). They are cut for athletic builds; if you've been hitting the pasta a bit too much, have very large shoulders, or shoulder mobility problems, go up a size; I am near the upper limit of height and weight for the medium (5'8" x 165#) and the fit was spot-on with my typical cool weather dress (long johns, fleece pants, shirt plus fleece sweater). With 2 thin fleece layers, 32F water is pretty tolerable (but the fit through the shoulders is more snug), and I've even done a little bottom cleaning like that. However, I strongly recommend trying the suit with the layers you intend to wear. Fortunately, getting out is easier than getting in, so you won't get stuck!

Note on trimming seals: the wrist and neck seals on dry suits tend to be one-size-fits-all, which is to say they are probably too tight unless you are built like a stick. In fact, over tight neck seals can inhibit blood flow to the head, which is bad.  I found the wrist seals fine, but the neck seal was miserable. Trim one ring at a time with very sharp scissors, leaving no jagged areas that could stat tears, until the seal is snug but acceptable, your adam's apple can move, and blood flow seems normal. Divers keep them tighter than kayakers and sailors should. Seals are replaceable, but with care last a long time.

And when you peal it off... You're dry!

---

Note: A lengthy, blow-by-blow review and comparison to immersion suit performance requirements--including me spending hours in the water with ice flows testing it in February--is scheduled for publication in November 2016, Good Old Boat Magazine.

Helm Visability

I'm told hard dodgers really restrict visibility and make judging sail trim difficult.

Whatever

I was bored and the wind went light. The day before I had done hours blasting into 20 knots with 45F air temperatures; a hard dodger is the difference between a pleasant day in a sun room and frostbite on the nose. Oh, it's still plenty cold on deck!

(Fall is wonderfull on the Bay; wind, empty waters, and quiet coves. But it can put a premium on warm clothes, dodgers, and cabin heaters. But a cozy night with a movie, hot tea, and lots of blankets beats sweating it out.)

Dyneema Lifeline Burn Through

Dyneema has generated a lot of interest as a lifeline material; light, easy to fit, and comfortable to the hand. There are issues with chafe at stanchions (solved by polishing and sometimes chafe guards), but never the less, it was approved by ISAF 2 years ago.

But now ISAF is reversing course. There have been chafe failures due to rail meat and poor installation. They could stand that, I suppose, except it keep happening. Sometimes it is installation stupidity. Sometimes delivery crews switch to wire (more trust) and screw up previously polished holes, leading to failures. Ironic.

More concerning are cases of burn through, where the friction of a line, typically a spinnaker sheet on a large yacht (the only documented cases have been on maxis), generates enough friction to cut through a line in a single bad jibe. This can't happen on a small yacht (forces and lengths too small), but certainly it can be a source of wear, depending on the rigging locations. Many have been happy with Dyneema. Never the less, ISAF is now allowing Dyneema on class 1 and 2, but requiring wire on all higher classes. They are hoping to generate experience before revisiting the issue.

Judging from the burns on my PVC covers, this is a problem in need of a solution, at least on my boat.

Bleach and Aluminum Corrosion

Rev. 10-14-2014

I've got a series of 4 articles on water treatment coming out in the next few months, describing a simple approach, soup to nuts. One of the more interesting things to come of it is a treatment that seems safer for aluminum tanks. Both of these images show the worst pit after 14 days, at about 200 magnifications.

Puriclean Aqua Mega Tabs, 1 ppm free chlorine. Later I determined that I could lower the dose 4x below this and still maintain the same free chlorine due to the cyanurate buffering. Overall, the surface has been smoothed rather than pitted, with ~ 50% reduction in weight loss.

Both photos are same magnification; the bleach roughened the surface more.

So expect 10-20x less than this.

Bleach 1ppm, free chlorine.

Safer for aluminum tanks? That is my impression, particularly if the dose is lowered below manufacture recommendations to the lowest effective dose, but more confirmation work is needed.

What about hydrogen peroxide? During the writing of my water treatment articles, numerous sailors asked me to consider H2O2 as an alternative to bleach for aluminum tanks. One problem, of course, the lack of established standards for sanitizing with hydrogen peroxide. The Water Quality Association (certifying organization, similar to NSF) recommends 30,000 ppm hydrogen peroxide (3%), which is full-strength drug store peroxide, and 3 hours contact is required. Compare this to 30 ppm for bleach with a required contact time of 1 minute. There is no recommendation for routine use, but health approvals place and absolute limit of 1000 ppm peroxide, which is most likely below the effective dose. Not at all practical, and any stories of effectiveness at lower levels from cruisers are anecdotal and probably not based upon any science.

But just for laughs I did some corrosion test, using 3000 ppm peroxide for 4 days (ASTM D1384 test coupons at 65F).

No pitting... but remember this would have taken 40 pint bottles to sanitize a 25 gallon tank, even then using only 10% of the WCA recommended dose. Not practical.

• Aluminum. Minor discoloration, no pitting.
• Brass. Minor discoloration
• Copper. Minor discoloration
• Solder. significant corrosion, about like bleach on aluminum. Expect premature failure.

Compared to other products? The top image, without blemish, is Aqua Mega

 

Fresh Water Flush--a Miniature Water Closet?

Seawater contains bacteria and sulfate. Flush with seawater, deprive the bacteria of oxygen for long, and facilitative (those that can go aerobic or anaerobic) start using sulfate (SO4-) as an electron source. The result is H2S (rotten eggs) and the head stinks. The cure? Either use the head every 8 hours (thus, smell is not a problem when living aboard or actively cruising) or flush with fresh water.

But you can just plug the freshwater pipe into a manual head; water will blow through, flooding the compartment, and bugs can swim up-stream. The water closet, introduced a century ago, prevents both by employing a float valve and creating an air gap (bacteria can't fly, as a rule).

What about a miniature water closet? $38 from McMaster Carr

Made for commercial ice machines, this unit holds enough to flush 3' of 1.5 inch line--not enough for most manual heads--and refills at 0.33 gpm, or about 1:20 seconds per full flush (12 strokes or so). Clearly, a larger size, holding about 60 cubic inches, is what is needed. It could also be expanded by mounting a 1-3' length of 3" pipe under it to serve as a reservoir (4' of hose can be flushed for every 1' of 3" pipe). Mount it to a bulkhead somewhere handy and you should be good to go. A pair of valves would allow switching from seawater and isolation.

But I haven't tried it. I'm happy enough with sea flush and a rinse with potable using the shower head before going home.