Thursday, August 8, 2024

How Long Should a Tether Be?

7-02-2016, rev. 8-8-2024

The 3' / 6' split has become a defacto standard, since these are the lengths in the ISAF standard. Well, sort of. What it actually says is that:

  • 30% of the crew (or everyone if you single hand) must have a tether leg of no more than 3'.
  • Every tether must be less than 6'6".

First off that means you can, and perhaps should have tethers less than 3'.

This tether is only 30 inches, is attached well in-board, and I'm well outboard. Of course, I had to climb over the high lifeline.


 At the mast in lump weather I sometimes go even shorter. How about a vertical jackline. Every boat should have these available in the form of halyards, though mine are fixed (they serve an unrelated tangle-avoidance function).


Additionally, I see no reason they cannot be longer in certain cases. My other leg is 8', bout right for the broad bow of a cat. I can imagine much longer on bigger boats. You just have to use the length intelligently.



What about smaller boats? I was fooling around on this 27' mono, using Amsteel jacklines, and concluded that the longest leg should be 3' and the shorter perhaps less than 2'. A 6' tether has no place on a smaller boat. If you would like a longer tether for the cockpit, then have a separate dedicated tether there.



I like custom sizes. I fabricate mine from 8mm climbing rope using sewn splices, but climbing webbing and knots will do nicely.

rev. 8-8-2024

The 3'/6' split is perfect for my F-24. The jacklines run along the inside edge of the tramp lacing and end 4 feet from the bow and 5 feet from the stern, and the large wing nets make it practical impossible to reach the edge. There are no lifelines, other than small sections at the bow and stern. 

 


 

 

4 comments:

  1. Nice write-up. Any thoughts on using dyneema or amsteel as replacement lifelines? Amazon sells 6400 lb rated dyneema winch cable for only .50/foot, was thinking of using this as lifelines on my boat.

    ReplyDelete
  2. In fact that is probably what I will do next time. A few thoughts.

    1. The ISAF off-shore rule (Google it) only allows Dyneema for inshore and multihull racing. Problems with chafe when rail meat leans on it too long.

    2. Chafe is a problem when there are burrs in the stanchion holes. Make certain to remove burrs and polish. Also install chafe protectors (tubular webbing or spectra chafe sleeve from NER.

    3. Go up a size to cover UV damage. I'd probably go 8500-pound to get a good 10-year life.

    Honestly, if you aren't too worried about weight, wire is probably the better long-term value. But that winch cable does sound like a good deal. Please share the details!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi again...here's a typical listing on ebay, many similar ones available in various colors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291437963152?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There are a couple of things that bother me:

      1. It is not strong enough for 100% Dyneema. Should be about 8400 pounds minimum rather than 6400 average BS.

      2. From China. I don't hate China, far from it, but it makes me wonder about 1.

      3. What are the chafe and UV characteristics? will it age predictably?

      So I am curious. Sort of like Chinese solar panels (I have 2 and may get another).

      Delete