Super Simple Solar

After dealing with the complex power system of my PDQ, installing a surplus panel on my F-24 was the work of a few hours and few dollars.

The panel. I like rigid panels, but semi-flexible can make a lot of sense for small boats. The key is that they should not be stepped on, no matter what the vendor says. They use the same silicon cells and they are fragile. Also, they should only be flex once, during installation onto firm support. A bimini is by definition a problem, a common cause of premature failure. The typical story is that "it was a great installation," and then several year later, "I need to get better panels; these didn't last." Of course they didn't. They flexed in the wind and the cells developed thousands of microcracks.

Open circuit voltage of a "nominal" 12 volt panel is about 20 volts. The moment it is attached to a load that drops way down.

Location is always a conundrum; where on the boat never sees shade. The answer, with sails up, is that there is no such place. Since I hate arches and the F-24 is a sport boat, flat on top of the slider was the right answer. It's not under foot and the boom can be swung to the side to leave it clear at anchor. Another advantage of the slider location is that the screws are not into corred deck and thus leaks are unlikely.

There is no need to mess with the main panel. Solar systems wire direct to the battery (or studs that are directly connected). They should NOT be isolated by the battery switch. However, you will need a fuse.  A simple in-line fuse is fine.


Wire size need not be large for a 50 watt panel; #14 AWG is enough. With larger panels you need to stay below about 3% voltage drop.

A simple automated charge controller can be had for $25. Two wires come from the panel, two go to the battery and fuse. Generally they are smart enough to sense the battery and type, regulate bulk and float charging, and schedule equalizing. Wow.

I could write pages about good wiring practices. Use a ratchet crimper, adjusted for the fittings you are using.  use grease on the contacts. Keep things neat. And don't forget the fuse (panels are known to short-out). MC-4 connectors are very good in a marine environment, but I always seem to cut them off and just crimp things together; the pigtail length is always wrong, the replacement panel will be a different shape, and they don't actually aid in troubleshooting.

It couldn't be much simpler these days. If you've got questions, just ask.

100 Best--Chapter 10

Keeping Warm in the Cabin

On-deck comfort is important, but eventually night falls and we retreat to the cabin, and in the winter, nights are long.  Even the most glorious spring and fall sailing days come hand in hand with cool nights. There is no reason they can't be spent in comfort, like an evening in a quiet cabin.

56. Dickenson P9000 Propane Bulkhead Heater. The live aboard is going to be happier with forced air heat and a thermostat. But for those of us using heat for a few evenings in the winter and to stretch the spring/fall seasons, a propane fireplace is all you need.

Yes, you need leak sensors, a propane locker, and careful installation, but this one is pretty simple, well within the DIY catagory.  It is also just as energy efficient as installed furnaces, thanks to a double-pipe flue that preheats the combustion air, and it's just as safe, since the unit is completely sealed, preventing carbon monoxide from entering the cabin. Locate a small fan nearby to spread the heat, and you'll have a very cozy cabin.


Please just forget everything you've heard about flower pots over burners. That is thermodynamicly and chemically provable as nothing more than wishful thinking, and dangerously erroneous logic. Exactly the same number of BTUs are going into the cabin as with the burner on, with potentially higher carbon monoxide emissions than a naked flame (because of the relatively cool pot surface. The burner can consume the oxygen in the cabin in a matter of minutes, after which carbon monoxide production soars and the floor comes up to hit you in the face. The same goes for small fired lamps and candles. Every bit of pollutant is going into the cabin air which you are breathing. Yes you can ventilate, but then you need more heat. In my opinion, ventless heaters in general are a dangerous, awful product catagory. I'd rather wear more clothes, just like tent camping.

I'm working on a simple solution for stove top heating that vents the exhaust from the cabin, something like the Dickenson Cozy Cabin heater. Look for a post this winter.

57.  Electric Blankets. The first assumption is that the power draw will flatten the batteries, but upon closer examination, the typical 50-100 watts is not that much for a large battery bank.  If used primarily to pre-heat the bunk, and then turned off or way down, the over night draw might be 30-50 amp-hours. Personally, I like sleeping under a mass of quilts, pressed down into the mattress. But this is worth consideration, particularly if one of your party is cold blooded and you have a heafty battery bank.

58. Insulated Window Covers. I've seen all manner of quilted covers, but there are two simple solutions that really work.

• Bubble Wrap. Just spray the inside of the window with water and apply. Static cling will hold it all winter. I wouldn't have believed it, but it works. It does look rather Hoverville, but it works and it lets light in.
• Closed Cell Foam. My favorite source is cheap yoga mats. Cut to shape, make Velcro buttons to hold it in place, and reduce the heat loss by half.

59. Double Glazing for Windows. If the window has a removable bug screen, you can make a storm window for it in minutes. Just cut a rectangle from 1/8-inch polycarbonate and round the corners to fit. This will eliminate condensation (there is a dripper over every bunk) and retain more heat than you would think.  and I'd love to provide a spoiler, but the editors would yell at me. See the upcoming article in Good Old Boat Magazine.

60.  Towel Hot Dogs. Cold air leaks around companionway sliders are nearly universal. Slice an old towel into 6-10" strips and sew these into rolls. Stuff them in the cracks. Keeps bugs out too.

 61. Carpet. The simplest of all. The cabin sole is cold, adjoining the unheated bilge space. Carpet protects the varnished sole while adding important insulation.

62. IR Thermometer. These have come down so far in price (as low as $10, but not the Fluke units) I know consider them to be must-have tools. Uses include checking the oven temperature, monitoring engine and cooling water temperatures, looking for drafts and poorly insulated spots at home, and checking your boat for drafts and cold spots. The first time you spot something at home it is paid for 10 times over in saved heat. The boat applications are free!Just scan inside the boat, note any cold spots, and then do something about it.

63. Shoveling Snow at Home. You should also prepare on the home front. While this thrifty sailor has gone with a bottom shelf brew, I would suggested a stout with a higher alcohol content (to prevent freezing). No bottles--they may burst.

All kidding aside, a plastic shovel is handy on a boat, and never, ever touch soft vinyl windows below 50F (they will crack--below zero they shatter like glass), and thaw frosty decks with un-heated seawater.

Composite Fittings

In the process of re-fitting a new-to-me boat, I find myself going deep into the archives in search of ways to make her light, strong, and interesting.

Pad eyes are simple enough. Leave it to Ropeye to come up with an elegant Dyneema solution that is strong as hell, light, and cost $290.

But  if we did through the old magazines, we can find this one in a 1991 Multihulls Magazine:

 

 Instead of through bolts and a backing plate, he simply wound Kevlar thread round and round until there was enough to carry the load. The stainless steel thimble, that was used as the form, provides chafe protection on the inside. I've also seen these made, where the Kevlar, Glass unidirectional, or carbon unidirectional was used in the same way, but instead fanned out on the inside surface and glassed, making a backing plate of sorts. More labor, but just as strong and no need to rebed, ever.

Take that, marine chandleries.

Mast Time

In the quest to get my new boat whipped into shape, it was time to go where the air is thin for a little recon work. It is known that the PO whacked the masthead on a travel lift, removing the wind vane and wind instruments. Or maybe it hapened when he dropped the mast, tearing the mast hinge from the deck. Who can say. Either way, it was time for a closer look. Yes, this could be inspected when the mast is down, but we may be moving the boat with it only out of the water for one day, so it would be nice to have the any required parts on hand.

 

For me, the MastMate is the way to climb. With Dave tailing a safety line (halyard) I doubt it took more than 2 minutes to reach the top, perhaps a bit less. Always roll the ladder with the steps flat and they will pop right open. 

Notice the blue EVA foam padding taped inside the leg loops of a standard climbing harness. This cheap expedient greatly improves comfort when you are up there for a while. Coated gloves improve grip on the mast and stays.

 The box for the wind instruments stripped out of the mast, but Rivnuts should take care of that.  I like the new LED anchor light. The VHF will remain unused for now, I presume, in favor of handhelds.

Note that I tie myself off at the top with a few slings and carabiners. This improves stability.

 A Davis Windex fit nicely in the VHF antenna mount. The boat previously had a crane mounted off the back for the Windex, but all evidence of it is gone. Both Practical Sailor testing (me) and market share suggest this is the best vane available.

 And of course, the obligatory pictures of the view. The slip is only wide enough for one ama to extend at a time. We will be moving to a wider slip, although folding takes only 5 minutes.

 Washington Sailing Marina, with Regan National Airport and the Potomac River in the background.

My new Outboard

No, not really.

This is the drive for an F-25 enter in the Race to Alaska.

A pair of Hobie Mirage drives would only amount to a fraction of a horsepower. It better be flat calm and no tide.

I think is is simpler to follow e-10 best practices:

• Use a good anti-corrosion additive.
• Portable Tanks: Close the vent when not in active use.
• Installed Tanks: Use a silica gel vent filter.

State of Charge vs. Voltage

I get questions all the time regarding "is this voltage right?" Well, it depends.

Temperature. In the summer they run higher, in the winter, lower. Also, if the battery is heated from the charging process, it can be warmer than the air temperature. As you can see, there is a 0.6 volt range between summer and winter, depending on where the batteries are located. In the winter many electronics will cut of around 50% state of charge due to minimum voltage requirements. Thus, the usable power in the winter is much less. Fortunately, solar charges more efficiently, though for fewer hours and at a lower sun angle. No fans, but more light and heating appliance load.

Surface Charge. Just after charging the voltage can be a few tenths higher, sort of like how a lieden jar stores static, although the mechanism is different. Put a few amps on them for an hour before reading at no-load.

Under Load or While Charging. Both of these affect the voltage due to internal resistance effects. Although in theory these can be corrected for, in practice you will miss by a mile. Always test while resting.

100 Best Buys--Chapter 9

Keeping Warm on Deck

I am, by nature, a 4-season sailor.  I try (unsuccessfully) to avoid sub-freezing temperatures and strong winds, and when the water turns hard sailing stops, but other than that, it's press-on regardless. There is nothing better for combating early spring cabin fever than a quiet mid-winter day of light air sailing, and even cool spring and fall weather require some preparation to be enjoyable. it is always best to be prepared.

51. Dry Suit. I was tempted by these 35 years ago, when I sailed a beach catamaran, but all the finances would justify was a cheap wet suit. I was tougher then. When I took up kayaking a few years ago, I spent the bucks and never looked back. They are great as deck wear on cool, nasty days, where they prevent water from going down the neck or up the sleeve, and they are more agile than full foul weather gear. If you fall in you are basically wearing an immersion suit and will be  safe--even comfortable--for many hours. If you wind a rope in the prop, need to assess underwater damage, or need to enter the water to assist and MOB, there is no other solution. I now consider a dry suit to be a winter sailing safety essential. I like the Ocean Rodeo line, because of the convertible neck and attached feet. Yup, that is ice around me. I was in the water for six hours, running the suit through the US Coastguard immersion suit standard. It was actually fun, since I have no other opportunity to swim in the winter.

52. Shoe Drier. My personal workhorse is homemade, designed for kid's snow gear. However, there are many neat commercial designs available.


53. Hand Warmers. Thick gloves are warm, but you can't actually do anything while wearing them. As an ice climber I concluded that Hot Hands hand warmers were are far better solution, allowing the use of thinner gloves with resulting improvements in dexterity. The gloves must be reasonable air tight; thin fleece or knit gloves do not adequately retain heat or limit oxygen supply, causing the packs to burn out quickly and do little good. Windblocker fleece gloves with leather palms are a good compromise. With heat packs, these are good down to freezing. Lightweight ice climbing gloves can be good. It comes down to fit and wind/water resistance.

54. Ski Goggles. Not just for southern ocean spray. Any time the temperature drops below about 55F, goggles can replace sunglasses, keeping the whole face warmer. Pair these with a light Polar Fleece balaclava (seals the neck) and a fleece watch cap (the balacava helps hold the cap on) and you will be good down to freezing.

55. Fleece Socks. I can stand cold fingers and the wind on my face, but I can't abide cold feet, more specifically cold wet feet.  In really wet conditions, the best solution is a dry suit with attached feet. No more wet toes, ever. In more moderate conditions, I like neoprene socks over fleece, and finally, just fleece when it is cold but dry.

And always take extras for the ride home and for sleeping at night.



So ditch all notions of blue lagoons, substitute visions of the ice fiords and polar exploration, and extend your sailing season by double. Pretty cool (pun intended.)

Notice anything different this morning? It's the new sports car (Corsair F-24) in the header image.

But I don't expect too much on this blog to change. It will still be about projects, sailing, cruising, gear testing, and writing. I already have a project list over a page long, little of it vital, and much of it fun, stuff intended to make sailing easier or faster. In fact, my main reason for changing boats was to reinvigorate my writing.

In keeping with my prior boats I've stayed with basic principles:

• Pick a well-known brand that is in demand.
• Don't buy a project boat. You won't get to sail and you won't save money, not really.
• Pick one that calls to you. Be practical, because the next person will be, but remember that sailing is about being in love with being there. If she calls to you, she will call to someone else in the future.
• Maker her better over time. Fight depreciation. It is also easier to stay in love with a boat which is kept in prime condition.

So what does the future hold?

• Some maintenance. It's a boat. Much of what I learned from the PDQ and Stiletto will apply, but there will be new stuff.
• Some upgrades. But I have to sail a boat for a while before I understand the design well enough to actually make it better.  I like subtle upgrades, not bolted-on gadgets. I don't know just what she needs yet. But I have page of ideas.
• Some cruising tales. The cruises will be shorter, I'm sure, and back to my gunk holing roots. My kayak will be coming along.
• Some analysis of sailing technique and equipment designs. Always. A new boat brings new perspective.
• Gear testing. Though only 24 feet, she is a sturdy boat and should make a fine test bed. She is well-built, not tender, and not afraid of a good breeze. The basic needs remain the same.

You've Got to Watch out for those Guide Book Authors...

... always copying from others, and not always going there themselves. Me, on the other hand, when I decided to write a guide book about the Delmarva for shoal draft boats, I dragged my my young daughter along, several years in a row. And we had some times. The kind you never forget.

There are only 265 markers on the inside passage between Cape Charles and Chincoteage. We took turns.

Loggerhead sea turtle shell, Cobb island.

 Ponies on Assateague beach.

Best 100--Chapter 8

It's been a while. I assume you all understand that while my boat was for sale, the greatest value of this blog was as a marketing tool. However, Shoal Survivor is now under contract and we can get on with business as usual.

Yes, I am momentarily boatless. However, that does not mean this blog will change.

• PDQ content will become somewhat less. But that does not mean I am reluctant to answer questions or work on PDQ problems. After all, most boat problems are, to a significant extent, universal. I also know the PDQ inside out and enjoy sharing what I know.
• This blog will not come down or become inactive.
• PDQ materials, such as the PDQ 32 owners manual, will remain available.
• My writing, both magazine and e-book will continue unabated. It is my life, and this blog supports both, developing ideas and sharing comments.
• I am actively searching for a replacement boat. Something different. Writing and research demand a broad experience, and I intend that a new boat will add a new dimension. It will be something much different.

So on with my list of "100 Best." I've got most of the list in my notes, as a backlog of things I've already tested or used anyway.

______

In celebration of the successful sale of Shoal Survivor to  her new owners, this is a listing of some of the most useful boat prep products. I have been an active sailor and I have never been a clean freak. Good solid maintenance, and fix things stronger than new, but not a clean freak. Shoal Survivor has been well lived in, and we cleaned them up.

41. Oxiclean. over half of the lookers ask whether I had sewn my own cushions or whether I had had them made. They were so clean and in such good shape that none believed they were 20 years old. In fact, I actually used a wholesale-only product for most of the cleaning called CS-530 and marketed for cleaning sails by Challenge Sail Cloth. This is what many of the lofts use for professional sail cleaning. But at the end of the day, it is Oxiclean with a touch of Spic-N-Span added. Hot water, soak for 4 hours, rinse. Leave in the sun, because the sun helps it keep working. If you cannot remove the cover, scrub in place and then extract the water with a carpet cleaner.

 Percarbonate is the key. Unlike bleach, it does not fade colors or weaken the cloth. This later is why Challenge Sail Cloth can recommend it. Long soak times (2-4 hours) are required and some time in the sun helps finish the job. A carpet vacuum extractor is very helpful for overs that cannot be removed.

42. 303 Aerospace Protectant. No, they don't really protect much. Yes, there are many good vinyl and fiberglass cleaners and protectants..

43. Imar and Plexus for windows and vinyl. Both are highly regarded by sailmakers and plastics manufacturers. Both have been put through rigorous testing. Imar polish lasts longer and protects better, but Plexus is more convenient for cleaning and polishing. I use both.

 The best protection is to keep vinyl covered, protected from UV. Can you guess where the cover stopped? I have covers for all of my soft vinyl.

44. Xylene. Always be cautious around plastics with solvents. The compatibility rules are complex and it is always possible to mis-identify a material. That said, xylene is the go-to product for removing most organic goo from fiberglass:

• Black heel marks.
• Tape residue.
• Fender goo rubbed that transfers onto the topsides.

45. 3M rubbing Compound. Although I did not compound the whole boat, she had accumulated plenty of black heel marks from winch handles and bad shoes. Remove what you can with solvent, and then a very light buffing gets the rest. Also good for buffing old acrylic or Lexan windows prior to waxing. (NEVER buff soft vinyl until you study the Practical Sailor guide to restoring vinyl. Without proper procedure and materials, this is  good way to ruin soft vinyl.)  Get a cheap 6-inch buffer from Harbor Freight and save it just for the windows. It is worth it just for that.

46. Boat Zope, Sudbury Products. Both more effective and much more economical in use, since very little is used. In general, it was sufficient to power off both old bird bombs and lichens without further assistance. Allowing a few minutes soaking period helps with any soap.

47. CLR diluted to 5%. You can buy black streak removers and tannin removers (for the ICW smile), but a spray bottle of 5% CLR does the trick for a small fraction of the price. Just lactic acid and a little surfactant. Available at Home Depot.

48. Diluted Bleach. Same thing. Just pre-dilute to about 5% of bottle concentration and save a bundle. Great for mildew and loosening lichens. But do be mindful of fabrics. NEVER use this in sails or canvas. Read # 41, Oxiclean.

49. Easy Off. Our wives know this, but most (non-kitchen savy) men haven't got a clue. An old grimy galley stove or stern rail grill can be relieved of 10 years worth of baked on grease in a few minutes. Be warned that this will burn the skin and that it can remove some paints (latex and bottom paint).

50. Formula B (Practical Sailor). A DIY mixture of Borax, washing soda, and TSP, this pennies/gallon blend is perfect for cleaning bilge spaces and KEEPING mildew from returning. The best available for removing mildew from carpet liners and flooded basements (what drove me to invent and perfect the formulation). Concrobium is also good, if you like paying 20 times more. GoldShield products are more durable if rain is a factor.

_________

Halfway home and I'm not even breaking a sweat.