Anchoring
- Shorten the chain to 6 feet of switch to 1/4-inch, and add a webbing/Dyneema chafe leader. Shes a fast boat, and the 30 feet of 5/16-inch chain on the primary anchor makes no sense for a boat who's storm rode tension is perhaps 800 pounds. The chafe leader (see Practical Sailor magazine for the details) will prevent cutting, and catenary doesn't mean much to me since it is mostly a day sailor and we always anchor in shallow water (lots of scope).
- Fitted sheet for V-berth.
- Testing dehumidifier, but we might switch this for solar ventilation. Although the Formual B removed the mildew, there is constant condensation due to poor air movement and a wet bilge.
- Fix centerboard leak. When sailing hard water comes out the top and into the bilge and cushions.
- Mini-dodger Mark II. This has worked out very well. I'm talking to Outland Hatch Covers about a production version, just for fun. The Mark II needs a little better sealing (Mark III in the works), and you will see it in Good Old Boat Magazine in the future.
- Replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs.
- Add two alloy bicycle water bottle cages. While not perfect cup holders, they are unbreakable, easily mount to railings, and hold beer and water bottles very well.
- Tarp for rainy weather and sun. It will fit over the boom and attach to the mast, topping lift, shrouds (these are far out on a tri) and a pair of posts aft. I had something like this on my Stiletto, and it was handy.
- Guides to support tiller extension when tacking/jibing short handed. On a beach cat you could always just toss it in the water, but on the F-24 it tends to snag on stuff. Laying it on the stern rail seems to work, but it needs a pair of guides to keep it out of mischief.
- Possible barber hauler/traveler for reacher. Still to work that out.
- Longer bobstay for using reacher on bowsprit. The PO has it attached to the wrong bow eye. Gotta love POs and the stuff they break because they don't read the manual!!
- Add starboard fairlead for reacher. Probably lash-on a low friction ring.
- Swap jibs and repair. I fixed rips in on the the mains and one of the jibs, and the one that is currently in place is showing signs of delaminating in a few spots. It has a nice shape, points high, and I think it can be repaired. We have two spare mains and a spare jib, all with good shape. I'm trying to make this inventory last 5 years, with Dr. Sails and tape. We'll see.
Other things can work, but Dr. Sails rules for both polyester and laminate sails.
- Tiller pilot wind vane interface. Honestly, this is low on my list. The magnetic functions work fine and I think this boat is too quick for the pilot to work well to windward. I think it is just mast base wiring, since the instruments and the remote work.
- Anchor and stern light. The boat does not have a separate steaming light, but it does have a masthead LED light with 6 segments and 6 wires. I think they light according to the switch settings. For now, I have an LED lantern and I don't intend to over-night until spring (the nights are too long in the winter).
- Storage in amas. I'm going to add a couple of studs (Duck Works Boat Builder's Supply--I love the web site, even if much or it does not apply) and use those to add a row of hooks and fishing pole holders. In a small boat, smart storage is paramount.
- Shim rudder. The kick-up mechanism has some play. More aesthetic than important.
The list is getting shorter and cheaper. Of course, it will never disappear, not unless my imagination fails. The goal with this boat is to make her into a fast, fun day sailor with cruising potential. She will need to be kept light (lose the chain, use low friction rings where I can, move towards Dyneema, and limit the junk growth) and the running rigging should favor a racer's point of view. Even if you are not a racer, a light boat is safer if adjustments are fast and easy. As for comfort, it will be more "camping in comfort" than cruising, I think. Cleanliness and smart storage will help.
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