To tack:
- Make certain you are at full speed.
- Reduce the number of wraps on the winch to no more than two.
- Loop the tail around the wrong side of the winch.
- Release the leeward traveler control. I want the traveler to fall all the way to leeward when I cross the eye of the wind, so that it does not push me back into irons.
- Set the autopilot to steer 110 degrees to windward (I single hand a lot).
- When the jib breaks, wherever you are in the cockpit, simply give the line a yank.
- Haul the new working sheet in as the turn is completed. With good timing, only a few cranks on the winch will be needed.
- Bring the boat up to her true course and bring the traveler back up. She accelerates better with the main brought in by degrees.
NEVER backwind the genoa. That is a great way to stop the boat and lose control in the waves. I tacked several times yesterday in winds ranging from 25-30 knots in a terrible speed 4-foot chop, with 3 reefs in, and still had no trouble punching through. It is a matter of sequence and sail balance.
I have kept separate spinnaker sheets. I don't jibe that often, and some days I don't even attach both sheets, since I won't be jibing and it keeps the clew light.
When do you use both inside and outside Genoa tracks. I use one for the Genoa and the other for my Staysail.
ReplyDeleteI do not use both tracks at the same time. If I am reaching, the genoa is fully unfurled and goes outside. If I am beating, the genoa must be furled to about 110% and the tension transferred to the inside track.
ReplyDeleteSometimes I remove the set of sheets that are not in use for easier tacking, but this is not strictly required. It does reduce tangles when furling in over about 15 knots.