Bolt Hangers--A Strong Point For Small Dollars

Cheap hardware via cross pollination from the rock climbing world. In the mountains these are used in combination with wedge bolts to create strong anchor points. On a boat...

• 5,000-pound strength anywhere a single 3/8-inch bolt is handy. Of course, a good backing is required.
• 316 stainless steel.
• Cheap. About $3.95. (others brands may be 304 or other grades, some of which have been known to fail in marine environments.)
• Designed for clipping carabiners, they easily accommodate 2 carabiners.  
• Obvious purpose avoids confusion over acceptable strong points. Strength rating and certifications are stamped on hanger.

Countless potential uses. A few of mine....

• Add an extra block to a sail track.
• Add an anchor point at the stern for diverting mooring lines or attaching a dingy.
• Tether and jackline anchors. Don't tie rope or webbing directly; the radius is too short for acceptable strength.
• Anchors to secure bicycles.

Handles

rev. 4-22-2012

Every boat has one line that requires a hard pull over a short distance. On the PDQ 32, it is the engine lift ropes, port and starboard. Every time you are finished with the engines they must be lifted: under sail the lower unit drag costs 0.4 knots and a gurgling noise, at the dock or at anchor, corrosion and fouling.

A tubing or pipe handle helps. Aluminum or stainless are best. Round the inside and outside of the cut.

 

Revision: the above photo shows and attempt with a bit of thin wall PVC tubing. It failed after a few weeks of use. Perhaps SCH 40 PVC would work--I think so--but I replaced them using some stainless tubing of the same diameter I had lying about; they will now last the life of the boat. On previous boats I had used aluminum tubing, which worked fine too.

The Case for Softer Tethers

Rev.1-2-2014
(Since the original post we have moved to dynamic rope tethers (softer catch), but I have left this as there is still good information and it is still valid. However, in reviewing a number of accidents, where multiple impacts would have been poorly served by a single use energy absorber, I now recommend dynamic materials [elastic, like climbing rope].)

As an experiment, hang in your safety harness for 1 minute. Go on. We'll wait for you.

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Hurt pretty good after a few minutes, didn't it? Imagine falling a few feet on a 6-foot tether with no real shock absorption. The impact would over 10 Gs, or over 10 times what you  experienced just hanging there. The maximum, in lab testing, is over 20 Gs. Can you feel you ribs cracking and spine shattering? Of course, this is an exaggeration of anything likely to happen on a boat. How far can you fall?

Over the railing, of course. But there will also be some attenuation as the lifeline stretches and stanchions bend. The length of the fall will be lengthened about 2 feet (1 foot of give). YOu probably didn't really fall 6 feet; the jackline is inboard and if you fall more than 5 feet you'll hit water, depending on whether you went head or feet first. It.s going to hurt, but the actuall fall distance is only 4 feet and the was ~ 2 feet of breaking. The harness impact should be perhaps 3 Gs. Survivable with bruising, and probably no the worst case scenario.

Thrown from the cockpit. There have been a few cases where a sailor was washed out of the cockpit, the tether broke, and the sailor lost. How could the impact force have reached 4000-5000 pounds? Lets assume the sailor was thrown at 19 feet per second-- 11 knots, a good wave strike, only a fast jogging pace. He is clipped to a hard point--no give-- so the only attenuation will be the tether stretch, plus the wave is still pushing. In the case of the above 6-foot fall the time is about 0.61 seconds and the final velocity is 19 ft/second. Ouch.

It will save me a lot of typing if you visit this post about fall energy first. The long and the short of it is that falls on jacklines are less severe because the jackline stretches and the sailor also slides along during the line. Falls against a fixed anchor point are brutal. This is where we take up the thread.

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I've made some effort to research sailing chest harnesses and injuries, with very little luck. Clearly, if a sailor takes a 4,000 to 5,000-pound hit in the ribs there will be serious injuries; OSHA and military studies support this. Yet, because of the circumstances of these accidents, the actual injuries are usually unknown. The sailor is lost. Other times there are injuries, but the assumption--right or wrong--is that the sailor hit something, other than the end of his leash.

The harness or tether is typically blamed, though there are 2 falsies in this logic: the harness should never have seen a 5,000-pound load because there should have been shock absorption in the system; the sailor would have very likely died from his injuries anyway.

• "A lesson in harness and tether construction can be learned from Tami Ashcraft, who along with a sailor friend was making a sailboat delivery to Hawaii when they ran into a powerful storm. Ashcraft was knocked unconscious. When she came to more than 24 hours later, she climbed to the cockpit where a single tether dangled over the side. The D-ring had snapped where it was connected to her friend's PFD. He was gone. Ashcraft was convinced a round ring might have held, like those on Mustang vests." Ashcroft, in my opinion, was wrong in her conclusions.
• 1998 Sydney-Hobart Race Accident. Glyn Charles was never found, after his tether parted. But the force of dragging his body through the water could not have generated that kind of force, only a sudden impact. The inquest stated that he was attached to a "fixed point" and thus would not have benefited from jack line shock absorption. The lanyard may have also been defective, though I can't locate the testing information. http://www.parliament.nsw.gov.au/Prod/parlment/hansart.nsf/V3Key/LA20010307027.  http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/othersports/snooker/2994528/Yachting-Charles-died-after-safety-harness-failed.html.

(I now believe dynamic tethers make more sense, in terms of energy absorption and multiple impacts. It seems that several or even most of the fatal MOBs that were related to tether failure involved multiple high impacts, and this need would be poorly served by a single use devise such as a Screamer. I have left this article as food for thought, but please refer to this more resent post for more up-to-date information.)

And this leads to a very interesting conclusion: the shock absorption device (Screamer) doesn't really need to be on the the tether, it could be on the u-bolt. It is the fixed-point anchor that is the hazard. If the sailor is on the jackline, the system will stretch and slide and nothing will break. Some sailors have expressed concern about the elongation of the Screamer on-deck, and this removes that concern. No one wants more clutter on the tether. Up front, the real hazard is being dragged in the water, as many have said. Only if the sailor is attached to a u-bolt in the cockpit is the impact force extreme! Thus, if we clip Screamers only to the cockpit u-bolts, the force is absorbed where it needs to be and no new hardware needs to be invented! While this adds a little cockpit clutter, it could save lives very cheaply. In fact, the mere presence of shock absorbers on construction lanyards has been credited with safer work practices, as it reminds the workers of the incredible forces involved. The presence of Screamers in the cockpit might even encourage sailors to shorten their tethers.

Well, at least that's one possible answer, something very simple that would only need be deployed in extreme conditions. This is much how climbers originally use Screamers; other applications came later. 

________________

So I made up some new tethers a few weeks ago, for my own use on a catamaran. These are my best yet, and I like them both, though for reasons I will explain below--multihull reasons--I like the one on the left better. They both have features I like, though they will not be for everyone. (I have since switched to dynamic tethers.)

• Knots instead of sewn loops. I'm still playing with the lengths and years of climbing experience tell us that the knots are not a real risk. But years of climbing, industrial and marine experience also tell us that sewn joints are stronger, reliable, and durable. They would be sewn if I were not still experimenting. (These knots weaken the webbing about 30%). Tails must be 3 inches and knots must be tightened by bouncing on them with body weight to prevent loosening or slippage--standard climbing practice.)
• Attaching the snap to the center of a 2-leg tether with a larks head is quite convenient. It is a simple matter to adjust the legs without re-sewing or re-tying the ends. The larks head will not slip appreciably during a fall and could also be secured with a lashing, though that is not needed. This also simplifies the construction if sewn and probably results in very little net loss over time; several fewer joins, it can be moved if worn, and there is no UV vulnerable stitching. It also takes the load equally well from either leg or from end-to-end.
• We like screw gate biners on the jackline because we do not often unhook from the jacklines. They are light and snag-free. We unhook from the harness end. This is because we have a deep center cockpit and never harness in the cockpit. If you clip on-and-off the jackline, the Kong Tango is a better choice.
•  Rope jacklines. Rope is stronger and withstands UV better than webbing. It offers controlled stretch, absorbing fall energy. It gives a better hand grip and clips more easily. On the down side, it can be mistaken for running rigging; on our boat this is no problem because of location and because we leave the jackline end attached. It is worse underfoot, rolling and making for poor footing; ours are not under foot because they are run on the cabin roof--cats are wide. If I had a monohull I would still strive to get the jacklines up against the cabin trunck and out from under foot. I might be forced to use webbing, which I would replace frequently (6-months?) and not like. I believe jacklines and harnesses are for everyday use, that practice with equipment breeds competence, and that rigging jacklines only when "needed" is a big mistake. Even more than reefing too late, who wants to be rigging jacklines too late, in a thunderstorm or at dusk? On a narrower boat, non-stretch rope is required.
• Quick release on harness end. We don't, since getting washed off a cruising cat by a wave is very unlikely and capsize even less so. We prefer the security of a locking biner and the Tango is a quick-open compromise. However, there have been a number of drownings of sailors dragged by tethers or on boats that capsized; monohull, sport boat, and performance catamaran sailors should have quick release snaps at the harness end. However, be warned that most tether quick releases have failed in testing and in the real world to release under load . Test by hanging before you buy! Practical Sailor is investigating this issue. If your boat can capsize or is narrow and washing off a possibility, use a quick-release shackle.
• One leg vs. two. Vital, as most boats need a short leg on the side decks and at the bow, and a longer leg around the mast. Though I played with 2 versions for some years (the conventional 2-leg version; a 1-leg version with an intermediate clipping eye at about 65% length) we have settled on the 2-leg version as handier. Do NOT clip the unused leg to you harness; clip it to the eye below the harness shackle. In the event of a capsize you will find that releasing the harness tether has left you clipped to the boat via the unused leg!
• Shock absorption: Screamer. Notice the Screamer at the harness end. A simple $18.00 gadget that ensures the impact force cannot pass 600 pounds. I've broken ribs snowboarding and don't fancy doing it again. Climbers have been using these for many years, and ALL industrial and military tethers use them. Because they are easily replaceable (larks head to the 2-leg tether and overhand loop on the end of the 1-leg tether), triggering one is a minor expense (they are still full strength after triggering but will no longer absorb impact). I thought about only using the Screamers on the fixed-point anchors, but decided a fall over the side could be rough for me and that they were not in the way. This feature is NOT yet commercially available, though prototypes are being field tested.
• Shock absorption: Dynamic Rope.  8-10 mm dynamic rope is another excellent option. Read this later post. The advantage of dynamic rope is that it can withstand multiple impacts.
  
• Fit to boat. I think it is a mistake that all tethers are 6 feet or 3-6 feet; there are sound engineering reasons why falls over 6-feet are very serious, but honestly, boats are not one size. Most boats should have a short leg less than 3 feet. Multihulls need more than 6 feet to work effectively on the tramp. This is one reason I make my own. If you feel the need to modify your tether lengths, just be careful. This post may help.

There  does seem to be one potential weakness to having shock absorption installed in the tether; when it triggers the entire tether must be replaced. With a commercial tether, this will be about $200.00. There are 2 things I've asked the manufactures to consider:

• The Screamer section should be replaceable. Then it is only a $20.00 fuse.
• If the Screamer is non-replaceable, it must be protected from wear with a single bar tack. I have already learned that repeated non-critical impacts tend to loosen the stitching. This is not a safety concern, but in heavy duty use (Volvo?) it will reduce the effective life.

If this is something you would like to see on the market, call Yates and ask for them! They've built prototypes, but demand is required for an idea to make it to market. 

_________________

 Another option is making the tether from a more dynamic material, such as nylon dock line or climbing rope. Let's consider climbing rope. A single rope meeting UIAA standards cannot have an impact force of greater than 1650 pounds (187-pound climber), while a typical modern rope gives a fall factor 1 impact force of more like 1000 pounds. These ropes are rated for twice this fall distance. How does this compare to the Screamer? The elongation is similar; about 2 -2.5 feet. The peak impact force is about double because the Screamer gives steady braking instead of graduated braking. The climbing rope gives lighter weight and greater simplicity.

Is Methanol Going To Be The Next Ethanol?

Natural gas prices are very low and projected to stay there. There is even talk in the Wall Street Journal this morning of spot gas going to zero by late summer; it keeps flowing from wells (small guys need the revenue and many wells co-produce oil and gas or natural gas liquids), storage is limited, the winter was mild, and export facilities are limited. Inventory is running far higher than normal. Day by day and more and more it is becoming clear that gas recovery by directional drilling and fracturing has cause a paradigm shift in our energy outlook.

Methanol is made from gas, and gas is very cheap and likely to stay that way for decades. The politics are pushing us that way too; gas producing states, voters wanting cheap gas, and policy makers seeing energy independence are all raising the issue, an there is no doubt far more behind-closed-door activity:
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/24/op...-gasoline.html

The gasoline distributor recently filed suit against the EPA asking for relief on the coming ethanol blending requirements; it seems the law requires more ethanol than can be practically produced. And there is a good case against the environmental benefits of ethanol farming.

Apparently there are bill before Congress to require an "open fuel" standard by 2017.
http://rtec-rtp.org/2012/03/10/methanol-has-momentum/

Certainly methanol has it's weaknesses; I don't wish to flog that horse. But does it have weaknesses in the marine environment beyond those of ethanol? Water tolerance is one, and perhaps a major reason MTBE was used in place of methanol years ago. Add just a few drops of water and, BAM, the methanol layer falls out. It is not, by itself, a stable fuel. However, it seems that used in combination with ethanol, that problem may not be too serious...
http://web.anl.gov/PCS/acsfuel/prepr...04-90_0276.pdf
... and most of the gasoline pool has 10% ethanol or will soon. Just the ethanol we are already blending should be enough to stabilize the fuel.

There is also good information here:
http://celanesetcx.com/wp-content/up...ine-Blends.pdf

Enleanment may be the most formidable problem i the total alcohol content rises about 10% or even in 5% ethanol/5% methanol blends; methanol has less heating value than ethanol and like to run richer. It would seem new marine engines and outboards will need to become flex-fuel, just like cars. I expect materials compatibility issues as well, as methanol is more corrosive than ethanol, but that may be solvable with corrosion inhibitors; that technology has also improved.

I think it's quite possible we'll be seeing methanol/ethanol blends used to fulfill the EPA regulatory mandate. When? I'm sure it will be some time, but it's not to soon to look into the challenges.

Morse MT-3 Engine Controls

These have always been a bit of a mystery to me. The manual suggests annual lubrication--probably not needed on a PDQ 32, since they are under cover--which I never did. There are no visible fasteners and the direction always made it sound like major surgery, which I have been avoiding with some guilt until...

... I prepared to leave my anchorage this morning and the starboard handle fell limp. Oh, it would shift gears and felt normal when doing so, but the engine wouldn't rev. If the handle was pulled out as you do to adjust the throttle with the engine in neutral, the handle was limp. When I removed the engine cover and moved the throttle from there, everything felt normal and the engine was fine. I could only assume I had torn the head off the cable or that some crucial and unobtainable small part had disintegrate. Visions of boat bucks melting away filled my eyes.

Opening the control for a better look turned out to be easy:

• Leave the handles on. They aren't in the way and will help with trouble shooting.
• Remove the 4 screws that hold the control head to the bulkhead. Lift about 2 inches.
•  Remove 2 screws about 3/4-inch below the mounting flange, one fore and one aft. Both are in recesses and hold the cover haves together. No other fasteners need be removed and no spring-loaded parts will fly out.
• Pull the 2 halves apart. While you're in there, grease everything, including the exposed cable. In my case, after 14 years, the factory grease was just running thin but not gone; however, in more exposed locations, lubrication every year or 2 would be smart. Check for loose bolts--I found a few. 

The problem was delightfully simple. An E-clip (a type of external retaining ring) had fallen off of the throttle control lever and allowed the cable to come free from the control. Why? In part, because a pair of screws retaining the cable end had loosened and allowed the cable angle to change. In part, because the clip was stainless and not all that strong. I replaced it with a spring steel clip, buried in grease.

Carrying a few spare clips might be smart (5/16-inch E-clip--be aware these come in 2 thicknesses and that the thicker ones will not fit the shaft grove). The motor end controls are also 5/16-inch clips (a different design, and I have had failures there as well--the same E-clips will fit).

Carburetor Bowl Vent Canister

rev. 4-29-2012

Surely it appears I'm going overboard on this topic, but I love experiments.

If a carbon canister can reduce fuel loss and water gain in a tank, why not address the carburetor? Wouldn't this reduce gum formation and ease starting? And since it won't cost me anything but time in the shop, isn't it worth a go? Tiny carbon canisters have been fitted to California lawn tractors for some time, to meet stringent air regulations.

In automobiles evaporation emission systems tied the carburetor vent--back when we had carburetors on cars--to the main canister and flushed the system with intake air during operation. More efficient in terms of hydrocarbon destruction, but more complex and only effective if the car ran nearly every day. In fact, those systems did not reduce carburetor bowl evaporation, since they would never reach equilibrium. They actually drew gasoline from the bowl, much as calcium chloride draws water from the air. I've taken a different approach, since evaporation reduction is a primary goal, and that requires that the carbon reach equilibrium with the carburetor bowl while the engine is running, exactly the opposite sequence from what automobiles systems achieve. Since the carbon is saturated during operation--a warm engine encourages plenty of evaporation--when fresh air tries to enter the carburetor when it cools and at night, that fresh air will become saturated with gasoline vapors and will not contribute to further evaporation in the morning. This process of self-regeneration is about 65% efficient in reducing emissions for long time periods, according to EPA testing (page 5-120).

The carbon canister is above the in-line fuel 
filter and is connected to the carburetor vent hose.

Click to enlarge.

The canisters I installed are retrofitted from small in-line gas filters from the might-need box. Originally, they contained fritted bronze elements, which I had discarded (these were replaced by Raycor filters). I fitted each end with a carbon support screen cut from beach cat trampoline fabric. They hold 6 ml of granular carbon of a type optimized for low-flow gas phase  hydrocarbon adsorption. Though small, the carbon:gasoline volume ratio is much greater than used on tank vent filters, this is intentionally so; these will see much greater temperature operating temperature range because they are mounted beside the engine. Even the diurnal cycle will be greater, since the carburetor lacks the thermal mass of a fuel tank. They are NOT secured directly to the engine, as the high-frequency vibration is not good for the carbon. It is extended away from the carburetor, horizontally and slightly down hill, with 6 inches of hose to prevent fines from migrating back into the bowl. This is the existing hose, previously open ended and routed downwards between the carb and engine block.

What do I expect? Easier starting. Less idle jet gum formation and fewer stuck floats. I'll let you know.

___________________

Follow-up reports: 

• Baseline, March 18. Both engines require primer to be pumped up if the boat has been help for a few days. Port requires 1-2 pumps of the throttle (Yamaha 9.9s have an accelerator pump). Starboard requires several pumps and several efforts, followed by an advanced throttle for a few minutes. Engines re-start within 18 hours, even if cold, with a single crank and idle well. Both engines are identical, purchased at the same time except for the carburetor; the starboard is a fixed idle jet US carb, and the port is Canadian with an adjustable idle screw.
• March 25. Easier starting after a week away seems to be confirmed. Both engines start on the first crank, without pumping up the primer or pumping the throttle. The starboard engine did not require the throttle to be advanced during warm-up and did not stall.
• April 20. Up-graded to 1/8-inch thick FRP filter with silica gel/alumina fill. This adsorbent has been performing better in bench trials when high humidity is considered. Very sturdy, better fit, easier to mass produce, twice the adsorbent volume. Non-refillable, but projected life is 5 years.

High Blood Presure

Though I've always been healthy as the proverbial horse, my blood pressure has always tended to the high side, and now passing 50 years, it crept past 140 over something. So a month ago I started on a minimal dose of Lisinopril. Now it's below 120 over something and the doc is thrilled.

It's not diet. It's not weight. It's not lack of exercise. My doctor was clear on these things. It's just Mom and Pop and time. Fortunately, my cholesterol is very low and heart disease is unknown in my family. But If I want to make my family's customary 90 years in good trim, I need to maintain the house.

I read some posts from folks who claimed Lisinopril negatively impacted their athletic performance; that's not been my experience. While I always ride just a bit slower in the winter--my lungs don't like the cold air when near maximum effort--if anything, the pace seems to have improved. Perhaps that's only because spring is coming, but I certainly don't feel worse. No one's been passing me, not even the young punks (anyone under 35).

So what if I'm an old fart. I'm figuring on another 40 years, so there.

Reefing Luff Blocks

Rev. 4-24-2014

Larger sails often come with these. While not strictly needed, I find this reduces the friction a bit

• The long 1/4-inch shackle provides space for the webbing that a bullet block would not. Stronger too. The shackle must be just the right width (1/2-inch); some are wider and the rope could jump.
• The webbing bit is an 8-inch climbing sling from REI, something I had retired from climbing use. You need this length to get the block clear of the luff.
• The blocks are self-contained Harken Bullet sheaves, left over from a prior project that didn't work so well. Always recycling.
• I did drill out the inside of the blocks just a touch. About 1/64-inch.

_________________

Note 4-24-2014: After 2 years of use, the block on the 2nd reef was crushed. Too much load. I replaced it with a solid sheave turned from HDPE. No further problems.

A Windlass Transplant

rev. 3-13-2012

Lewmar Sprint 500 to V700, that is.

This turned out to be much more of a drop-in replacement project than I figured on. Everything you need, save a few crimp fittings, 2 screws (for the breaker plate) and some sealant comes in the kit. The mounting template was very close, with only one new hole and a very small amount of Dremel tool work. The wire supplied by PDQ was oversize (#8 AWG) for the Sprint 500 and is completely adequate for the more powerful V700.

Photographed before trimming, the cut-outs are nearly identical. Only a small half moon cutout on the right and a little trimming near the bow were needed. All edges were sealed with epoxy when finished. The plate in the photograph is the backing plate, later fitted under the deck. However, it makes a better trimming guide that the paper template included. Just trace up tight and trim. The 2 bolts in the aft end were simply dropped into existing Sprint 500 holes. The forward hole for the Sprint 500 lines up with one of the holes in the backing plate too... but it's the wrong hole and you will need to drill.

I had already replaced both of the foot switches earlier in the fall, both failing within weeks of the other. By Vetus, available from Defender Marine. If yours are weathered and cracked, cheap as I am, I would replace them at the same time.

The breaker is just a bit larger than the old one (25 amps vs. 35 amps). A few minutes with a saber saw fixed that.

• Tape around the hole to avoid scratching the gelcoat.
• Use a fine blade with reversed teeth, often marked "laminate." The teeth push down instead of pulling, eliminating the risk of chipping the gelcoat.
• Since the interconnecting wires are short,try to trim the hole closer to the solenoid, without quite hitting it.

The solenoid wiring and the back of the breaker are a bit fun to reach. In fact, the new windlass used the SAME contactor as the Sprint 500 and there is no real need to replace it, other than that the V700 comes with a new one in the box. I did replace it, not realizing this until the old one was out (the labeling is on the hidden side).

• Wire the breaker by pulling the wires through.
• Use grease on ALL connections. I like No-Alox by Ideal and No-Oxid by Sanchem Inc. (which is harder to find), but anything waterproof will do fine. 
• Clip all of the cable ties on the wire bundles before mounting the components; the reach is a bit more and there will be too much stress on the connectors unless you pull a little slack in. Replace them when you are finished (the picture below shows why this is a problem).

Always check the "after" photos; I didn't realize until writing this that the upper disconnect fitting has nearly pulled off! A simple fix on the next visit. I really dislike slide disconnects; they are the only fittings were I have experienced corrosion failures (shower sump pump) and they did poorly in the Practical Sailor salt corrosion tests. 

The presence of exposed (and in this case un-fused) terminals on the breaker and solenoid is a serious violation. I will be building a box around the area and covering the terminals, But just for the record, this was the builder! PDQ was solid on most things but some how missed this lone installation, where the quality of work is lower. Perhaps a subcontractor?

________________________

A piece of cake. When I first switched it on from the cockpit remote I said "darn, what is it now?" I could hear the click but not the windlass. It was that quiet. The old gears and bearings in my Sprint 500 were apparently in extreme disrepair.

__________________

Notes 3-13-2012:

• Fixed the wiring installation flaws.
• Much greater pull than the Sprint 500. I'm glad I didn't repair the old one.
• Keep the clutch wrench handy. It needs to be quite tight to achieve full tension.
• Keep the anti-drop pall disengaged. If you try to lower with it on, there will be quite a strain. If you have a chain lock, what purpose does it serve? I may remove it.
• Consider running out all of your chain and then reloading it under a watchful eye; somehow, I got a kink in the chain, which was a minor pain the first time I deployed the anchor. No harm, but a pain.

10-29-2012: After a season of service, no comments. The extra power is nice, particularly since I switched to a Manson Supreme 15kg and all-chain rode; the Manson can really dig in and the chain is heavy if the water is deep.

1-15-2015: Still good.

The Devils Tattoo

Sleeping on the boat, even just at the marina when lacking the time to go anywhere, is one of the great joys of owning a cruising boat. Quiet time.

And then it starts. At first, just an isolated sound. Ping. Silence and a few waves lapping. Then increasing. Ping, ping. A few seconds of rest. Anticipation. Ping. Ping, ping, ping. Pointless urgency. Ping, ping, ping, ping, ping,
ping.... Restful like a train station.

I've head the that the gentle slap of hemp on wooden masts is soothing, but my expereince is limited to the shrill ping of polyester on aluminum. The creak of docklines is OK; they can always be adjusted if troubling. The low howl of the wind is calming; I'm harbor, not underway, so all is right in  my corner of the world.

And then there is the matter of chafe on halyards and lazy jacks and scuffing of the mast. I tie mine off by sliding a loop up the halyard, pulling it tight to the diamond wires. Most noisy masts have a plan, but just a fair weather plan, a plan that fails, unknown to the owner, when the wind pipes up. Bungees lose tension. Lines stretch. 10s of thousands of cycles against the spreaders, jacklines, and the mast itself. It all sounds like money to me.

--------

Today I've been fitting a new windlass to my boat, swapping a badly rusted Lewmar Sprint 500 for a V700. Very quiet. The windlass that is; the winds have been sustained at 30 knots at the dock, raising all sorts of racket.

I can't afford halyards this year.