Internal Reefing and Friction

Single line reefing can be a delight, until the friction become so great nothing will move. I was pretty fed up with mine, when I first go the the boat, until I realized the PO had left me a tangle. A simple problem, and easy to fix, but often overlooked because it is out of sight.

The problems is that there are blocks inside, and when these get twisted, they lock up. The twist is introduced by a group of turning blocks near the mast (different from this illustration), that guide the line back to the cockpit or to a winch. Every time the reef is used, their corkscrew arrangement walks a small amount of twist into the boom.


The cure? Look in the boom-end to confirm that this is the problem. If yes, go the mast-end and untwist the line by hand in the required direction, until the lines are straight and the blocks are vertical. This may take 5 or 6 turns. Chase these twists through all the way back to the cockpit, so that they are not simply stuck between blocks near the boom. Do NOT release the line from the end of the boom and try to fix the twist from there. Although that end is also twisted, that is only a symptom of the twist at the other end. There is no way for twist to sneak in from the boom end, and if you try to fix it from there, you will simply create opposing twists. The problem originates at the boom end and must be fixed there.

On my boat this must be done about every 50 times I reef. Not very often at all. But if you've waited years, or if the boat is new to you, look inside the boom.

[This image is from the PDQ 32 Owner's Manual, free in MS word if you request it via the contact form near the bottom of the right column.]

Cleat Strength

 Boat US did a study, bolting cleats to steel plate and breaking them. Obviously, on a boat, this depends on a strong backing plate.

Different size cleats? In the case of fastener failures, simply adjust in proportion to the fasteners you have (data found here). In the case of feet failures, expect the strength to go up size^2. The strength of the foot, for example, probably goes up with size^3, but leverage goes up with size^1.

Marking Anchor Chain

Someone once told me that marking anchor chain with paint was amateurish.

Sailors on the US Blue Rige (LCC19) touch up the chain markings.

Okay, sure. 

• They suggest that you can feel bits of cloth and such in the dark. Assuming the gypsy don't sheer them off or jam, please don't tell me you would run your hand along a running chain in the dark. That is a good way to lose fingers.
• Plastic ties. My windlass sheers them off no matter how they are attached. Some manual say there is a right way, but not with a Lewmar vertical.
• Inserts. If I can't see the paint, I'm going to be able to make out a few mud-coated lumps in the dark? Silly on the face of it. 

The first article in Good Old Boat Magazine described a better way to paint the chain. Also in "Keeping a Cruising Boat for Peanuts" and "Rigging Modern Anchors."

 They even have a standard color code. Not sayin' you need to use it, although I do use a long red band to warn me of the rope-to-chain splice at 100 feet (98% of the time I stop short of the splice so that I can anchor on all-chain.

After all, you always need to know how much rode you have out.  It's all part of good anchor craft, along with proper snubber sizing (Practical Sailor) and one hundred other factors.

PDQ 32 Owner's Manual

I've scanned the manual that came with my boat, converted into MS Word, and adapted it a little my specific boat, modifications and all. I figure it's a nice courtesy to the next owner, and something that will help maintain PDQ value for all of us.

PDQ Yachts Inc

Whitby, Ontario

Canada

Revised for Shoal Survivor, HIN XXXXXXX

1997

Rev. August 20, 2015

February 2017

If you would like a copy, just send me an e-mail via the contact form at the bottom of the right column. No sweat.


I recommend converting it to PDF (MS Word will do this) once you have customized it. It will scroll MUCH faster.

Mexican Navy Tows Disabled Sailboat for 1 1/2 Days.

Described in the link below, a sail boat became disabled when their rudder sheared off, 3/4 of the way from Texas to Mexico. The US Coast Guard contacted the Mexican Navy, and the Mexican Navy sent a 180-foot cutter to provide a tow.

http://www.click2houston.com/news/mexican-navy-comes-to-rescue-of-stranded-american-sailors

Without getting political, it's something to think about. Things do go both ways. I like to get along with my neighbors. It seems to work out better.

Of course, a proper steering drogue would also have solved the problem, just as quickly and with less drama. After my own experience with bending a rudder on a submerged log (repair described in "Keeping a Cruising Boat for Peanuts"), I did considerable research on drogues for emergency steering and storm management, learning that a good drogue is a solution even a singlehanded sailor can make work in minutes, with just a little preparation and practice. In the above situation, I would have had a steering drogue in the water within 5 minutes, and we would have been on our way, a knot or two slower, but with certainty.

A failed rudder is simply not a valid cause for rescue or loss of your boat; I've sailed hundreds of miles with no rudder or worse, a rudder jammed to the side. It's quite manageable.

See "Faster Cruising for the Coastal Sailor" for the details. Also, and up-coming article in Practical Sailor will describe the details of rigging and using a drogue. In "How Much Drag is a Drogue" (Practical Sailor, September 2016) I tested, reviewed, and list the relative drag and performance characteristics of most popular drogues.

(Up-coming article in Practical Sailor on Emergency Steering with Drogues)

Formerly made by Hathaway, Reiser and Raymond, they closed their doors after 116 years in 2016. The Gale Rider is now marketed by Landfall Navigation.

Boat Writer's International -- 2016 Marine Writing Contest

Every year BWI--the trade association for us magazine writers--sponsors a writing contest. Every year, magazine editors encourage their writers to enter, but until this year, I always felt too busy. Writing was a hobby, squeezed in between work, family, sailing, climbing and life. This year I had time, so I entered three stories... and two of those were recognized! Yeah, it felt nice.

When I started my engineering education at Virginia Tech, the saying went "Four years ago I didn't know how to spell engginear, and now I are one." It only took me 33 years to, more or less, learn the craft.

 ________________

 In its 24th year, the BWI contest attracted 151 participants submitting 378 entries. In addition to cash awards, Certificates of Merit were presented to writers of another 43 articles which scored within 95 percent of third-place tallies in each category. All submissions to the contest were published in 2016. Each of the categories (noted below along with sponsors) was judged by four active journalists in the first few weeks of the New Year. Links are provided to the top three scorers. Results (there are 17 categories):

Gear, Electronics & Product Tests – sponsored by Xantrex/Schneider Electric
1st, “Splash Test Dummy” by Drew Frye (Good Old Boat, Sept.); 2nd, “New Options in Small Outboards” by Darrell Nicholson (Practical Sailor, Jan.); 3rd, “Hitting the Bricks” by Nigel Calder (PassageMaker, Sept.). “Despite it being a controlled product test of a cold water immersion suit, the author packs the article with a satisfying mix of information and hard data, accented with a good dose of humor throughout – An excellent piece of professional journalism,” noted judge Rich Armstrong. Merit Awards: “Trial By Fire and Water” by Lenny Rudow (Texas Fish & Game, Sept.); “Fish Whisperers” by Ron Ballanti (Anglers Journal, Fall).


Seamanship, Rescue & Safety – sponsored by Sea Tow Services International
1st, “The Storm Trysail” by Edward Zacko (Good Old Boat, Jan.); 2nd, “In the Perfect Position to Fail” by Ralph Naranjo (Practical Sailor, April); 3rd, “Naked and Afraid” by Pete McDonald (Boating, Jan.). Of the first place selection, judge Jim Rhodes said, “A thoroughly researched and well-presented article. Punctuated by vivid personal anecdotes, it was written with the authority of someone who knows the subject matter.” Merit selections: “Hitches to Grip Anchor Chain” by Drew Frye (Practical Sailor, May); “Go Forth and Cruise” by Tom Cunliffe (Sail, June).

Chafe-Be-Gone

Yale Maxijacket 

I investigated this product primarily on a whim. I was working on an article on chafe protection, and Practical Sailor asked about trying coatings, just in passing. After all, what can you expect from a product that looks like nothing more that water-based varnish? Obviously boat show advertising hype. Someone had also  given me a sample of a related product, Spinlock RP25.

 Both sides were cycled across a grindstone for 2000 cycles: Spinlock RP25 on the top and Maxijacket on the bottom. A baseline test (no coating) reached the RP 25 wear level in 1000 cycles.

I was dead wrong.

Maxijacket. The only things that lasted longer were tubular nylon webbing (5x) and Dyneema chafe sleeve (20).

•  6-15 times longer than uncoated rope
• 10 times longer than clear vinyl tubing
• 2 times longer than APX aramid chafe sleeve
• 3 times longer than 1/8-inch leather

RP 25. Good for stopping core slippage, but less so on chafe.

• 2-3 times uncoated rope (greatest improvement when wet)

Applications? I've been using the stuff for 4 years and remain very impressed.

• Docklines. Anywhere chafe gear won't fit.
• Furler lines. Best for roller reefing, where the line is highly loaded.
• Any splice subject to wear.
• Fabric prone to abrasion.

Mooring lines, with and without coating. I tried chafe gear, but it kept creeping off. This is easier to clip and extends the life of the wear section to match the rest of the line.

Topping lift. Abrasion was the problem, so I used some webbing as a thimble and dipped the whole knot. This allows me to down-size from 3/8" to 5/16", saving some windage.

It seems impossible that a product resembling thick latex varnish (stick with clear--other colors can transfer) can make such a a difference. While West Marine charges more than you want for more than you need, Knot & Rope Supply sells a small jar--probably all a sailor needs for a few years-- for $7.10. A bargain.

The Spinlock RP25 does have its applications too. It performs better on HMPE ropes (Amsteel et. al.), reducing both wear and cover/core slippage, and has the flexibility to use on running sections of rope. I'll use RP25 on sections of my Amsteel lifelines.



A penny-pinching tip.

A good-seamanship tip.

-------

Instructions. Whatever they say on the can. These are just my observations. When in doubt, let it dry longer before exposing to heavy load--it will wear longer.


To coat a long line, such as a furler control line, stretch tightly between 2 points.

Maxijacket. By all appearances, it is a thick latex varnish. Any brush suitable for water-based paints will work fine, and clean-up is easy. Apply in one heavy coat, soaking in as deeply as possible. Some riggers favor dipping splices, but this does not increase chafe resistance, wastes material, slows drying, and makes the splice too stiff--just coat the outside. Don't bother with a second coat--it will just sit on top and do nothing useful. Don't try a light coat--that blocks penetration. Allow to dry to the touch before installing, several days in good drying conditions before using, and a week before or soaking (anchor bridles).

RP-25. Petroleum based, it is relatively tine and soaks in rapidly. One very heavy coat is preferred. It will not stiffen the line as much as Maxijacket, but it will lock the cover to the core (halyards and furler lines that have been stripped) and will give some chafe resistance. Slower drying that Maxijacket; allow to dry to the touch before installing and one week  .

------

Since this study, more players have entered the field, and thus an up-dated review is in progress, including additional products from Flexdal and Marlow. Practical Sailor, of course.

Book Store Up-Date

The Book Store has been updated.

• Two new titles:
• Keeping a Cruising Boat on Peanuts
• Faster Cruising for the Coastal Sailor
• Four titles are now available as PDF:
• Keeping a Cruising Boat on Peanuts
• Faster Cruising for the Coastal Sailor
• Single Handed Sailing for the Coastal Sailor
• Circumnavigating the Delmarva--A Guide for the Shoal Draft Sailor
• Table of contents preview is available. 

The anchoring book ("Rigging Modern Anchors") has been a very serious undertaking and will hopefully be going the conventional paper publication route. It contains a lot of new research and I've had some good reviews from within the industry.

 This is where most of the work gets done. There's a lot more to it than typing.

MastMate--Climbing the Mast the Easy Way

rev.8-9-2024

Rope-based mast climbing systems are all the rage--and they do have the advantage of simplicity--but my good old rope ladder has served me well for 25 years. Heck, the surveyor I used on my current boat used a Mast Mate. But there are a few tricks that help.

The most common criticism leveled against hoisted ladders, like the Mastmate, is that the sail must be lowered and removed from the  track. In actual fact, the sail can remain in place, either stacked on the mast or hoisted.

A climbing harness would be much better and much safer.

• Hoist Inside the Track. However, outside works too.  The instructions are adamant that it MUST be in the track, and it is easier to climb that way. On my F-24 that is what I do; it's easy to access the track. But with my PDQ I always set it free.  To me, it simply isn't worth unloading a part of the sail, opening the mast gate, and fooling with 30 slugs. After hoisting to the top, lower 6 inches, clip the lowest eye to something solid, and tension hard with the halyard winch. To me, it simply isn't worth unloading a part of the sail, opening the mast gate, and fooling with 30 slugs.
• Wear a Climbing Harness. It should fit tightly enough on the waist that it can NOT be slid off, even if you were to fall upside down. If this is not possible because of physique, you cannot climb. Extra padding on the leg loops helps.
  
• Use a Second Halyard as a Safety Line. I tension the spinnaker halyard and secure it to the mast base. I then run an ascender (rope grab) up the line to protect against falls and to allow rest. Alternatively, a crew member can tail the safety line on a winch. Do NOT use the self tailing feature; lock it off with a jammer or cleat.
• Wear slim profile shoes. Easier to get in the steps. I'm happy with deck shoes. Most running shoes stink.
• When not in use, store the ladder coiled, from top to bottom, with the steps flattened in the correct position. This will insure that they open correctly and will make hoisting easier (won't catch on the spreaders). Secure with twine to make certain it stays that way. when hoisting, open the steps as they go up.

Coil for storage. I'm a "crammer" by nature, and I can tell you from experience, it is a mistake. Store it this way, every time.

• Carry several slings and carabiners for securing yourself at work locations. 4,500 pounds minimum breaking strength.
  
• Do not carry any tools while climbing. Haul these up with a trail line. I like an electricians bag.
• Haul up a climbing rope. Use this to rappel down, saving time and effort.
• Wear gloves while climbing. Vinyl coated work gloves like Atlas Fit grip the mast well.

 I dump the tools out and take only what I need. My bag is canvas.


I wear a well-padded climbing harness. Wear shoes with minimal tread or they will hang-up going into the steps (you can't slip out). rubber faced gloves really help. It takes lass than a minute to climb this 30-foot stick.

Book Questions, Comments and Research Ideas

Something in the text is unclear? A subject you would like to see researched and written up? Please post the question here. I'm always searching for new subject matter.