Showing posts with label dock mooring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dock mooring. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 23, 2024

Mooring Knots

Rev. 7-23-2024

This is a new low for me.

Not only is the boat secured only by an overhand stopper stashed behind a dock cleat horn, he messed with the next boats tie-up (the other cleat on the next boat was a proper hitch).


But then I saw something even worse, primarily because it is the boat next to mine. The pity here is that I had tied a proper hitch... but he decide to re-tie the boat.


So when the marina staff won't fix it, and the owner won't fix it, and it is next to you, what do you do to keep your boat safe? I'm betting this boat is uninsured.

And there are more. This one resulted in the boat sinking a few weeks later.

 
A reversed cleat hitch ... sort of. Good luck releasing it under load. How do you even do this?
 
And finally, if you can't tie a knot ... tie lots.

 

 

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Can Nylon Rope Melt Due to Load Cycling --- Myth Semi-Busted

The Problem. There have been reports of nylon sea anchor and ground anchor ropes failing due to heat build-up when repeatedly cycled to a high percentage of rated breaking strength. True? Let's try a few reasonableness checks. We'll start with climbing ropes, since these are tested for energy absorption and the results are well known.

In a UIAA (the governing authority for climbing gear) test fall 2.5 meters of rope arrests an 80 kg object falling about 5.6 meters, stretch included. This is an impact so severe that the rope is only expected to survive 5-15 cycles; I doubt any anchor rope would do as well, so this is very conservative. if we convert this to US units:

Energy = 176 pounds * 18.3 feet fall/8.2 feet rope = 393 ft-pounds/foot of rope

Expressed as heat. However, only energy dissipated by hysteresis (it takes more energy to stretch a rope than it returns--it is not a perfect spring) is converted into heat. After all, a metal spring does not heat, true? (In fact, metal springs do heat very slightly because there is some hysteresis even in metal, but for the purpose of comparison, it can be assumed to be very small.) Hysterisis with nylon rope is about generally about 10-20%. We'll assume the worst.

0.20 x 392 ft-pounds/ft = 0.10 BTU/ft

How much heat needs to be lost? If the rope is cycling at more than 50% of this load it won't last long for many reasons, so I will assume 0.05 BTU-cycle as the limit, which corresponds to 25% of the breaking strength and 200% of the safe working load (SWL), which is normally taken as about 12% BS for nylon. 

How many cycles? Assuming we are taking about storm waves, 20 second period seems reasonable, or 180 cycles per hour.

Heat = 180 cycles/hour * 0.05 BTU/cycle = 9 BTU/hr*ft

How much strength does a hot rope lose (PA66 is nylon 6/6)?

About 18% weakening by 80C (176F). There is a reason clothes don't fall apart in the drier! Long-term, there are oxidation effects, but these take months.


How fast can a dry rope loose heat? Assuming strong winds, about 6-8 BTU/ft2-F, depending on the reference. Assuming there is some spray in the air, we will use the higher number. A wet rope will cool more quickly due to evaporation and better heat conduction within the rope.

Heat loss = 0.11ft2 area/ft * 8 BTU/ft2 * (90-80) = 9 BTU

Clearly the rope won't get that hot. In fact it will top out at about 10F above ambient. Noticeably warm, but not in any danger.

What if the rope were larger (3/4-inch is what the Dashew's reported failing), of a less efficient construction (3-strand), and operated at a higher load factor (30%?)? The surface area to core ratios is greater, the heat generation per cycle is double, and the rope generates about 20% more heat due to the construction difference. What if the boat were tied to a dock and the period was much shorter? The core temperature gain can reach about 140For 60C--still not in the danger zone. Isolated fiber bundles could get hotter, if the load is not evenly carried or if there is significant friction between the fibers in that location.

 Note: I've greatly over-simplified the engineering. Insulation from the rope fibers and the cylindrical coordinates need to be considered. However, the result was similar, about 20% higher. On the other hand, we've assumed that no spray is striking the rope (it remains dry) which seems VERY unlikely in storm conditions.

 Observation 1: Lines smaller than 1-inch do not heat significant under cyclic loading unless they are significantly undersized, in which case they would fail anyway.


Below 3/4-inch rope heating due to cycling is probably not an important factor, even in the worst hurricane docking situation; failure will be due to something else. Beginning at 1-inch moving upwards, it can be important, since the larger rope cannot cool as easily. Large Barge tow lines can heat. Thus, the myth seems plausible, but not in sea anchor applications; the period is too low. The rope would need to be ~ 2 inches in diameter to provide sufficient insulation.

So why did the rope break? First, lets look at the load. Several investigators have found the wind load to be about 1/4 the ABYC estimates (these are based on anchoring with all-chain) and the load on a nylon rode to be about 1/2 the estimate. For a 50-foot boat, that would be about 2400 pounds. The SWL of 3/4-rope is about 2000 pounds. But that is before we include weakening due to wear and water. Dynamic tests by UIAA (climbing standards group) shows as much as 50% strength loss for wet rope in impact conditions. The SWL in practice is probably closer to 1400 pounds. In short, the rope failed predictably at 20%  BS after some time in the storm (probably higher due to a larger wave) with predictably melted ends. It was simply under speced due to a misunderstanding of SWL.



Second, we should do some forensic thinking. What does nylon rope look like when it breaks under load? In fact, it always looks melted, the result of the enormous energy release at the moment of rupture. If the rope was slightly warm from cycling the effect would perhaps be slightly greater, but it would not be the cause. The larger the rope sample broken in the lab, the more noticeable the melting.

 This is very load speed break testing, yet the ends are melted. I think folks just don't understand what they are looking at when they claim mysterious heating. One sailor reported a false observation and it became internet fact.


Observation 2: Nylon ropes always appear melted when broken at high load.

What about heating under chafing gear? Yes, there can be some heating, as calculated above. Covering the rope will make it worse.
  • If the gear is waterproof, that prevents both water cooling and reduces the internal lubrication that water provides. Bad.
  • The gear provides insulation, like an over coat on the line. Thus, a 1/2-inch line is going to heat like a 3/4-inch line, and a 3/4-inch line like a 1 1/4-inch line. Bad.
  • If there is motion under load, there will be friction and some resultant heating. Permiable gear that allows the rope to stay wet will help, since that reduced friction.
  • Chafing gear should be made of low-friction materials. I like nylon tubular webbing, because nylon-on-nylon friction is very low. It has done very well both in practice and in chafe machine testing.
  • High friction chafe gear (rubber and vinyl hose) is bad. 
  • Motion at chafe points must be reduced. Chocks should be close to cleats. Using non-stretch line in chocks areas can be smart.
Thus, any chafing gear that keep the line dry will weaken a line subject to hard cycling for a long period, such as a hurricane or nor'easter.. Only permeable gear is acceptable. But that said, the weakening will be only a small percentage. Even without heating, the gear will break under the gear because it is probably over an edge. So just because we see rope broken under chafe gear with melted ends, we should not believe heating was the culprit. The rope was simply too short to absorb the energy and was under engineered. Nylon rope looks melted even when broken at very low speeds and cycles; it is an artifact of the enormous energy release at the moment of failure.

Observation 3: If the rope breaks under the chafing gear, don't leap to line heating as an explanation. The rope was just too small and too short.

Bottom Line: Lines don't heat up, but users often underestimate the load, over estimate the SWL, and sometimes use docklines and snubbers that are too short to absorb energy safely. 

__________________


This US Coast Guard report explores dynamic behavior, including rope heating. They measure temperature rise and reach the same conclusions.

An exhaustive report by the US Coast Guard goes deeply into synthetic moorings. It's a big deal for deep water ATNs. 

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Mooring Between Pilings

With the approach of hurricane season, I look forward to another season of watching people add lines without a plan. They double lines to cleats that are too small,  underestimate slack requirements, and put lines the wrong places. I've got a long article on dock lines and forces coming out next month in Practical Sailor. I

got a lot of funny looks, sitting on the dock edge during gales and squalls, taking reading on on line tension on both my boat and others using a block and tackle and load cell. Just two thoughts here:



Instead of adding a spider's web of lines that take loads in unpredictable ways, try a simple pattern of full spring lines. If you squint, notice how they form 4 over lapping Vs, with redundancy in every direction. Additionally, no cleat has 2 lines on it. (the double green/orange lines refer to data in the article--they are single lines.) This is how I tie my boat every day, and it really minimizes motion. Because the springs are actually continuous from piling to piling, they only take seconds.


Which brings us to the mind-ships cleat hitch. Because it is only one line but must be secure in both dirrection it is just a little different. Basically a standard cleat hitch, with a crossing turn after the locking hitch to reverse the rotation, and one more round turn. Very easy and clean.



The end result is that I can break any combination of 2 lines and still stay in my slip. The other result is that I don't wear lines, because they are always sharing.Easy and robust.

I have another article on  bulkheads in progress. More load cell testing. The interesting take-away from that one is that I use polyester spring lines (on bulkheads only--nylon between pilings) to reduce fender movement.

For storms I would add a few more, but that is another story.

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Remember this Guy....?



A few weeks after I spotted that beauty, the boat came loose. Big surprise. Some one re-tide the boat with a proper hitch.

I spoke with him today, as he was winterizing his boat. He had learned his lesson and changed to a more secure knot. I'm not joking, I swear.


I what can you say?

On the other hand, I saw these 2 beauties just 3 boats down. Somehow, he started both hitches from the wrong end of the line.



Glad I'm at the other end of the dock.


Monday, June 1, 2009

Easy Mooring with a Dinghy on the Davits

rev 10-20-2009


The prior owner always kept the dinghy on the deck, since they found no simple way to tie between pilings with it still on the davits; on many catamarans if you connect dock lines to the stock cleats in standard criss-cross practice, they pass right through the dinghy.

The conflict in space is resolved using a short lanyard to deflect the line down and away from the dingy. All of the parts come from the local rock climbing store. As a mountaineer from way-back, they all came from my too-worn-to-climb pile.

The carabiners should be the wire gate type. The conventional biners in the first photograph soon locked up with corrosion and was replaced with a wire gate biners. Wire gate biners are handling the marine environment without corrosion or ill effect. I do feel it is important to use climbing biners because the are MUCH lighter than stainless marine biners, which prevents banging on the hull and gel coat damage. They carry the same 4500-pound strength rating.

Replace the washer under the one of the nuts securing the transom hand rail with a stainless bolt hanger. The nice thing about bolt hangers is that they require only a single (often pre-existing) bolt, are 5600-pound test with a 3/8-inch bolt, and are available in 316 stainless for just a few dollars. Very handy on boats, I have 10 installed, assorted places. Add a 1/4-inch quick link, a 6-inch webbing sling, a carabiner, and wrap the rough parts in 2" hollow nylon webbing to prevent chafe and guard against UV. Neat, durable, and mightily strong.Also a handy tow point for kayaks and dinghies.

How much force? I took a bunch of load cell measurements at the dock in moderate and storm conditions a few years ago. I also did this on bulkheads.

 PDQ Altair 32/34