Hang em High Part II--Getting the Motors Out of the Water.

Dragging the motors is slow. Worse, keeping them wet is a great way to speed corrosion, the most common cause of death in outboards. The original motors tipped up nicely and lower nicely with latches and lines. Well, until the latch mechanism corroded up tight. But they still went up and down with lines easily enough, lifting clear of the water and held fully down by a sea belt strap.

My new motors latch up and down nicely. Yes, I have to lift the seats, but I've made no effort to convert them to the original line system. The new motors have a manual choke that I need to set, I like to see the water stream, it makes me double check the lock, and it encourages me to check the oil more often. The only problem is that if I pull them full up and they latch, there is no room to insert your hand to release the latch? Even worse, sometimes they are so tight that there is no slack to release the catch and they cannot be lowered without considerable effort, time, shoving and bruising. I spent a season trying to pull them "Just" short of latching, but then they often touched the water even at anchor. Not good. PDQ seems to have good dimensional quality control; the fit problem was identical on both sides.

Some friend suggested wedging the transom to change the latch angle. workable, but that wouldn't get the lower unit fully out of the water. I like it pulled up tight to the hull.

A little trimming was the answer. First some rough cuts with a hole saw and saber saw, then some finishing with an angle grinder. Finally, several coats of epoxy to seal the wood. Yes, wood. The PDQ has an odd mix of solid glass (winch mounts and below the water line), foam (decks and cabin top), balsa (interior bulkheads), and ply (interior equipment mounts, engine mounts) as core, each employed where it was best for the job.

Nice and high now.

Wear and Tear

Time. We do the maintenance, build new, and still we go backwards if we glance away too far or for too long. We wonder about others that let things go, often for want only of some paint in time or a nail the right place. We try to balance effort and reward.

Aging has its own charm, we pretend, if we look at the changes as "character" and texture, but only when carefully groomed and cultured is it valuable, different from just "falling apart."

 
Parts of me are falling apart--no doubt about that. Today I looked forward to opening my afternoon mail to a new DonJoy Playmaker knee brace--I wore the old one out--rather than something fun.

 

On the other hand, I also got my new Chesapeake Bay Magazine Cruising Guide. I'm planning a busy summer!

Better Boarding--Extended Transoms

rev. 6-3-2013

On my last boat I had a few grand projects in mind that I delayed too long. They would have been fun. Extended length and beam, extended rig. On a Stiletto they wouldn't have been big money and they would have been exciting. I dithered too long.

I really like my PDQ 32. It may be the last boat I own. It certainly has the basic durability, I have determined that I am unlikely to cruise beyond the Chesapeake, and if I do ZTC has proven that is no problem. I like the smaller size as everything is lighter, and my joints aren't getting any better. I like the ease of getting slips.

So what would I fix, if I had a dream list?

• AC. I hate the Cruise-n-Carry, but for now it will do. I will build something in when it breaks.
• New mainsail. Mine has a terrible leach. Easy, I'll order a new one in a season or 2.
• Pitching. Longer is better.
• Easier boarding for my wife and parents. She has a fake knee, balance issues, and the nastiest ankle fracture I've ever seen, right through the joint surfaces. The cartilage in my right knee is also fading fast and I've been told further surgeries won't help. I wear a big knee brace a lot. My parents, of course, are quite long in the tooth but always game to go sailing.

And that's that whole list. I'm OK with the outboards. I like the kitchen and I like my propane heat just fine (we did a long cruise on 25-40F temperatures this winter and it did very well). I love the aft cabins and I love the 270 degree view from the salon. I like the size; bigger would mean bigger anchors, bigger sails, more maintenance, and higher sheeting loads. Not useful in a small place like the Chesapeake Bay. I like the small size for the smallest of harbors.
______________

Before

I am considering low transom extensions (like PDQ 36 Pacifica) rather than the high-sided extensions seen on the Seawind 1000/1000XLs; though the Seawind aesthetic is very nice, blocking the sugar scoop steps is incompatible with disabled access. There are a few faults in the Pacifica-style  extensions (did not follow hull lines but swooped up too quickly for best efficiency, and the profile was not faired to blend with the existing  topside lines) I can resolve and I really only need an 18-inch extension (note: became 22 inches as-built) to solve the boarding problem. They will be relatively low, like Pacifica's because I do not want the higher sides as on the Seawind extensions; we use the lower steps when boarding from floating docks. The high sides would flow nicely going up wind, but down wind they could catch waves, so while they look pretty, I believe they are less functional for us. Other benefits?

 

 After extension

• Better speed? I doubt it will be measurable, and calculations suggest it will only matter at lower speeds. perhaps 0.1-0.3 knots, depending on the speed.
• Load carrying. A little.
• Pitch reduction. Won't hurt, but too small to notice.
• Many days on-site fabricating. I live 1 hour away. Ugh.
• Difficulty match gelcoat and fairing. Fortunately the bottom paint and boot top will cover most of them.
• Increased resale value if done well. Of course, I may be dead by then.
• Length. My slip is not priced per foot (fixed by beam) and the practical docking length does not change (transom will not extend beyond tender on davits). 
• Appearance. I think I actually like the new lines a little better. certainly not ugly, if I spend some time playing with the curves and angles, matching her existing lines.
• Fun. A place to dangle feet.
• Practical. A place to wash pots.

As for building a mold, I'm considering simply applying several coats of PVA mold release to the last 30 inches of the hull and pulling a molds of the lower foot (all that I need). Yes, I would need to narrow the mold by taking a seam down the bottom. I would need to attach the form to plywood stations and glassed-in stringers, but I would get a nice smooth surface with the desired compound curvature; after all, I want to match the existing rate of curvature. This should save a LOT of fairing and any glaring transitions in hull form. Glassing in the platform and new transom is simple. There is no internal access so I'll have to include some sort of inspection ports; I'm sure they'll leak.

(Note: this is what I actually did.)
Alternatively, I may just build a metal mold, following the hull lines straight back. I've done this before; after getting the shape you like you fix it with transom and some stringers.

Very handy for boarding.

Your thoughts? Comments PLEASE. Forget structural concerns; I'm an engineer and will get past those. I think it will look OK and the function in terms of fun and practical access to the water, and limited mobility access to docks and the tender seem overwhelming.

_______________

Some practical considerations. I'll be collecting my notes here over the next few months.

No core in bottom half. The PDQ was laid up solid below the water line, and given the sidewalls are mostly below, I'm going to skip core materials. Just cloth and mat.

Epoxy resin. While polyester resin could certainly be used, I'm much more familiar with West Systems and there will be quite a bit of secondary bonding. It also smells better and I'll be working in the basement a lot. It is more water resistant and barrier coating will not be needed.

Pre-laminated FRP transoms. I have the scrap. Also tabbing and stringers, as needed.

(used pre-lam 1/4-inch FRP from McMaster/Carr)
Deck may be glassed 1/2-inch marine ply, unless I get a better idea. My FRP scrap is not wide enough.

(Yup, worked fine)
Tenting. I do not have an angle grinder with an effective vacuum attachment, so I may use an old camping tent. With the door open, it should swallow the work area.

The mold will most likely be 2-part to ease removal. I'm going to have to seam it down the center anyway....

As an alternative to pulling a mold from the hull I may build a sheet metal, simply strapping it to the hull, as was done by Roy Chandler in "A 30-foot, $6,000 Catamaran." He modified a stiletto27 by adding 3 feet to the transom, following the lead of the factory, which extended the hull to 30 feet using the same lines for the Stiletto 30. However, this would make it a bit trickier to beef up the form and I would like to keep the slight compound curvature.


rev. 6-3-2013

I'm leaning more to metal mold. This would allow me to do both hulls at the same time, since the mold is simple. It would allow me to do the work in the field, which would solve fitting problems. The PDQ 32 has a nice extended hull flange that will make bonding on-site very strong and simple. The mold will consist of the aluminum with ~ 6 firring strip stringers screwed to the outside and a square false transom on the tail (the actual transom will be angled and prelaminated, and tabbed in later, after trimming the initial layup). A metal mold can be 1-part as it will flex on removal, allowing it to be pealed off even if there is some sticking.

I've been practicing with the PVA and like it far better than wax; easy release and washes right off... with sweat drips if not careful.

Video of Pacifica installation process. Different approach.

Video of flow before modifications.

Muddy Water

 Pautuxent River Park, Jug Bay Natural Area
 

While the skies were certainly blue enough on my Friday off, the water wasn't and the air carried the slight musk of a freshwater tidal marsh. That, of course, was no distraction to the ospreys, cormorants, rockfish or emergent flora. Just the right mix of silence, water lapping, and spring calls.

A pair of projects has me focused on paddling lately; an article on kayaks for the sailing cruiser and a new Chesapeake Bay guide to "The Other Chesapeake." One will be finished this fall, the other--about real backwaters and tiny beaches and everything I like that is not in the guides--I expect to be years in the writing. So what, the work is the payoff, or at least most of it.

I spent this morning at a kayak demo held by Eastern Mountain Sports on the upper Potomac River, paddling a dozen different boats and collecting my ideas, regarding handling, practicality and durability. Except for the cold feet, all fun stuff. I even tried a stand-up paddle board (it was suggested that they solved some of the on-board storage issues), if only to confirm that it's not for me.

Wilderness Systems Aspire 105 / Another Toy

Rev. 7-22-2024

Wilderness Systems Aspire 105 / Another Toy

My daughters Perception Impulse got me hooked on marsh exploration and paddling, but I discovered
2 problems:

• It's tough to go with her when we have only 1 kayak.
• My back and bum wanted a more adjustible seat. The Impluse is very good--better than some chairs in my house--but I'm very old and stiff.
• I wanted to explore the Potomac River near my home, but it features whitewater, and though I'm not interested in serious whitewater, like a good breeze to a sailor, a few waves look like fun. Unfortunately, the Impulse stinks in white water.
  

I've hunted high and low (a Practical Sailor article on kayaks for the sailor is probably in the works), rented or borrowed many kayaks, and picked up a Wilderness Systems Aspire 105 yesterday. A hibred kayak, it features some of the shape of a whitewater boat (increased fore/aft rocker and limited keel) to allow quicker turns and to reduce the tendency of the current to grab the ends and spin you around. The thigh braces are better, and the seat has more adjustments to help hold the paddler in place; still, the seat is too wide and the boat too stable for effective edging, and there area pair of groves in the bottom that tend to grab water when side-slipping.  On the rec side it has a larger cockpit and storage more typical of sea kayaks. To provide straight tracking on flat water, it has a retractable skeg near the transom, yet angled and far enough in to prevent damage. Though it cannot be Eskimo rolled, the increase volume forward makes it easy to reboard after capsize. I tested that theory after neglecting to edge correctly pealing out of an eddy; it seemed so stable, but that big chine can sure catch water. It was a simple matter to flip it back over quickly, scooping only a little water, flop up on the bow, and slide myself back, all the while in fast moving but relatively flat water. The big cockpit opening makes reentry easy.

Basically, an upgraded recreational kayak with a few features to make it more at home in moving water.

Just north of Widewater on the C & O Canal. I had to special order a different color; I just couldn't see bight orange in a wilderness setting.

How do I like her? My first forays into whitewater assured me that she is more capable than I am at this point. On flat water, it seemed faster and the seat is a big improvement. If I were buying a boat strictly for sailing, I still like the Impulse; it's simpler and lighter. But for longer days, further afield, and more variety, the Aspire seems a good choice. It may prove the optimum choice for running long stretches of flat and moving river and for the occasional rough day on the Chesapeake.

Update 5-5-2013. Jessica and I took the Aspire and Impulse out on the open Chesapeake just as a small craft advisory had lifted; still a bit bumpy, and the water is still only 13C. Lots of laughs and relaxing too. The lessons:

• The spray skirt, which is required for whitewater, would have been nice in the rough water. We took enough waves to require bailing about every 20 minutes (1/2 gallon). a little safer and warmer too.
• Entering a kayak from the transom when the waves are rolling 2-3 feet is daunting. Possible, but non-paddlers will hate it.
• Speed. Identical.
• Stability. About the same; the Aspire has greater initial stability, but the impulse has a very good feel for secondary stability.
• Comfort. The Aspire has a nicer seat and thigh padding.
• Maneuvering. The Aspire is very nice in the waves and wind with the skeg up, but the bow blows off with the skeg down. Once back on track, the skeg is nice and we like it on flat water. The Impulse, not surprisingly, is somewhere in between. No question, the Aspire is more maneuverable, but for general use both are fine.
• Weight. I need to weigh them. The Aspire is only reported to be 4 pounds heavier (44 vs 48), but it seems like more to us when pulling it on deck. On this factor alone, we give the Impulse top marks for good paddling and light weight; simplicity pays.

On the Potomac above Old Anglers Inn. I was surprised to be able to catch this while on moving water. Credit to image stabilization and a stable kayak. He was several hundred yards away.

Update: June 2016 I noticed that the water tight bulkhead separating the stern compartment had started to leak, either the result of rough treatment in white water, or perhaps the result of dropping dropping down onto the seat. It was easily repaired with polyurethane caulk--Locktite PL S30(NOT silicone).

The skeg has also developed some severe cracks, though it still works.

I made a cockpit cover from some scraps of Sunbrella. Helps keep it dry and keeps the UV off the seat, the most vulnerable part (I keep it on the boat, on its side, all year). 

Update: 7-22-2024. It's proven to be a durable boat, stable and  capable. Very nice for kayak fishing (I have a pair of rod holders behind the seat--not vital but nice). However, I think I would suggest the Aspire 100 for any paddler under 200 pounds. It's just bigger than I need and thus harder to paddle. But you might appreciate the stability.

Inflatable Rehabilitation

When I bought the boat I honestly did not expect the tender to survive more than a season or two. She was 10 years old and faded, and didn't hold air too well. It was just a matter of time. As it turns out, Hypalon is surprisingly durable stuff and 5 years later she's going strong... with some rehab.

This time it was a bit of pealed rub rail and a wear patch that was starting to go through. A bit of heavy wader patch material (2 layers this time) and some 3M 5200 and she's right as rain. The masking tape is simply the most practical clamping method, since the stuff cures slowly. Is there a faster cure cement? Sure, but I don't keep it handy since it cures in the tube, it seems, certainly if you open the tube. I have used 3M 5200 before for wear patches and
gluing bits down. I wouldn't use it for patching a hole, but it does well for mechanical purposes. The rope scrap is in there just to apply clamping pressure to the edge.

(How is the tender supported in the air with the lifting tackle removed? The tricing lines, of course.)

Other repairs over the years?

• Replaced lifting spreader (plastic replaced by aluminum).
• Replaced floor. Fortunately for me, a demo with defective tubes (but new floor) was pitched, that only needed trimmed for length.
• Repairs to flow followed by replacement of floor.
• Lubing valves. A few drops of glycerine in the valves restores them to like-new performance for 6 months. Ever since I learned that trick she has held air just fine for a month at a time.
• Paint. I figured even if the paint didn't look that good, it would serve as sun screen. I'm more about function that appearance.
• A rub rail on the stern.
• Cut off the bow handle. It snagged when lifting.
• Added rod holders. Handy for numerous long items.
• Added fuel filter to outboard. I really do want it to last, as you can't buy 2-strokes any more and the 4-strokes are huge. Started using Biobor EB (top performing corrosion inhibitor).

What's next? I'll touch-up over these patches and perhaps re-paint in 2 years. I have a replacement seat I found that I need to pop in (same free source as the replacement floor). 

Some day, a replacement will be in order. Will I go bigger, an RIB with enough motor to scoot? I don't think so. While that is without question the right answer in some locations and for some people, for the Chesapeake with her soft beaches, short runs, and flat harbors, I think I prefer light weight and super-shallow draft to something beefy. I might go 6 hp, up from 3.5 hp, but that's it. light is nice.

Maryland DNR Tries to Understand Bottom Paint

Many marinas are coming out with new rules for DIY projects. OFten the boat owners gripe, but to me, these rules are very reasonable. The below is from a Chesapeake Bay marina. My thoughts are added and underscored.

• No wet scrubbing, hosing or pressure washing of bottom paint allowed while blocked on land. Would you want someone making a mess in your yard? Reasonable enough.
• Use filter cloth or tarp when scraping/sanding. Would you want someone making a mess in your yard?
• No dis-colorization may be noted on the ground under any vessel. Would you want someone making a mess in your yard?
• ALL paint cans must be placed outside of the shop on pallets after use. Paint cans that contain any wet residue are very likely hazardous waste. They cannot allow you to place them in the dumpster with regular trash. You can of course take them home, dry them, and put them in the trash.
• Do NOT throw any paint cans into dumpsters. Staff will properly dispose of paint cans. See above.
• Do NOT throw paint brushes, rollers, trays into office lot dumpster if WET. See Above. I always leave them in a neat pile under my boat (on a tarp and covered by the tarp) when finished; by the time I come back to launch they are dry and can be pitched. Very eas and much neater than fooling with the stuff wet.
• Put all used painting materials outside of shop for disposal by staff. See above.
• Office lot Dumpster is the ONLY dumpster for commercial waste. Very likely it goes to a different landfill, rated for industrial waste.
• ALL other dumpsters are for residential waste (trash, paper, bottles, cans, food, etc.)
• If in doubt, place item outside of shop door. Staff will dispose of properly.
• Shrink Wrap must be bagged and placed next to dumpster outside of Chandlery 

 "Please remember to inform the office of bottom paint applied. We need the date applied, manufacturer, type and quantity applied. Management must log paint applied on a daily basis and report to the state monthly."

 This all seems very reasonable to me. Most requirements are simply restating MD DNR regulations. The last line is intrusive, but as we will see, is logical for the marina.

Why do they need to know the type of paint? Maryland has passed a law that will restrict the VOC levels of paints applied, and marinas are only allotted a certain amount of non-compliant applications. Compliant paints contain less than 400g/liter VOCs.

http://www.boatinglaw.com/maritimear...eVOCs2012.html
http://www.dsd.state.md.us/comar/get...11.19.27-1.htm

Because they need to calculate the amount of emissions from paints that contain VOCs over the MD limit. You can get this off the MSDS or tech sheet. I found the paints I have used--I checked several and they were all traditional high-Cu solvent paints-- contain less than the mandated 3.3 pounds/gallon, so no problem. You DO NOT have to go to water-based paints, not in MD. Anything less than 400g/L will pass.

Pettit Horizons-------------323
Pettit Trinidad--------------400
Pettit SR 40-----------------330
Interlux Micron--------------330
Interlux Bottom Coat------465. And I bet this gets reformulated soon.

This e-mail has no impact on me, as I always did bottom painting this way. They are just asking us to be clean.

• Let the marina power wash the boat where it can be contained.
• Sand with a good vac set up. As a side benefit, you don't risk your lungs and the guy working next to you doesn't get red dust on and inside his boat.
• Dry your paint waste and tools before you trashing them. Try to use all the paint!
• Read the paint spec sheet. VOCs are easy to manage. 

And finally, use a 2-year paint. Just my opinion. But if I do the work only 50% as often as and annual practice, it just stands to reason the impact is less. Anytime you can benefit the environment, save money, and save work.... Well, the smart choice is just plain obvious.

Spring Break 2013

Long planned, long anticipated by my now-a-senior daughter, it was to be a glorious thing in dazzling spring weather. Nature disagreed, dishing out one of the coldest springs on record. We got 3 inches of heavy snow (March 25) the day before we left.

However, with a forecast for 3 days of sun and determined teenagers, we cast off. We have a heater.

Day 0ne. Deale to Slaughter Creek.

A pleasant down-wind run in a 10 knot breeze with he spinnaker up; cool (we had to shovel snow) but nice. Slaughter creek is well protected from the predicted west and northwest wind, particularly up near the bridge, and the holding ground is positive.

The main attraction of Slaughter Creek, to my tastes, is the access to the Taylor Island Wildlife Refuge. Certainly in the top 3 places in the Chesapeake to explore by kayak or dingy and my personal favorite. The marsh extends for miles and miles, and the guts and ponds sprinkled through the marsh make it possible to get quite lost. Simply wonderful.

The kids--my daughter and 2 friends--took off in the dingy while I warmed in the cabin for a few minutes, and then I followed in the kayak. Jessica's parting words had simply been "we'll be back for dinner," and by the time I hit the water they had disappeared into the marsh without a trace. I paddled for about an hour, following trackless paths wherever they led, enjoying the flow of the tide and the few fish that were darting about. Northern water foul have not yet left for the summer. Eventually I found my self wondering how far my girl might have gone; though she operates the dingy well, no outboard is completely reliable and you can't walk home from too deep in the marsh. They did have extra gas and paddles and paddles, though inflatables are pigs to paddle. I stopped and listened in the absolute silence. A salt marsh soaks up noise, like new fallen snow. I couldn't hear the engine, but I could hear intermittent voices, just bits of teenage boy carried on the wind, seemingly from miles away. And then they came around the corner. We had probably been separated by no more than 100 yards for the last hour, but with the tall grass I had no idea of it at all, no sense of near company. It always amazes me how a salt marsh envelopes a kayaker, severing all outside sensory input, leaving only what is immediate.

It was blowing a sustained 15 knots... but not deep in the marsh.

The evening consisted of a hot dinner, a movie, and kids stargazing under a pile of blankets on the trampoline.

Day Two. Slaughter Creek to St. Micheales via San Domingo Creek.

A more vigorous sail, for certain. A sustained 15 knots growing to 20 knots, some on the nose and later on the beam. Typical nasty Chesapeake chop, with the wind opposed to tide. As we entered the Chotank river the waves dropped, and as we entered Broad Creek we again had the close company of many small boats hand-tonging and dragging for oysters. While sailors we are accustomed to right of way, boat engaged in fishing change that norm. However, the draggers are generally working small mounds of oyster, driving in crazy circles and not crossing channels.

The town itself hold little for teenage boys, but the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum was a hit and we enjoyed some soup in a harbor restaurant. We got double appetizers, since it was claimed by our server that the cook confused oysters with clams. Odd.

No matter what the guides say, San Domingo Creek has terrible holding (or at least extremely variable)  in any kind of breeze. We've been there many times; once we sat out a squall and the anchor dug deep, other times, it just dragged and dragged, in spite of feeling well set. Thus, you've been warned. This time we returned after some hours ashore to find our boat had moved about 30 feet (20 knots sustained); this with a 35 pound Manson Supreme, good scope and power set. It was simply dragging through the mud at about 10 feet per hour. We tried another spot. Worse. We packed up an moved to Baby Owl Cove and were greeted by flat water and a firm bottom, perfect for a good nights sleep, to say nothing of the pleasure of being out of the cold wind. After all, there was bound to be more stargazing on the tramp, under a pile of blankets.

Day Three. Baby Owl Cove to Deale.

Wind. Starting at 15 knots building to 25 knots with gusts to 30 knots, and of course, right on the nose. This is when you feel good about having spent enough on the boat and worked enough on maintenance. Glad that you bought a boat that was built for a pounding and not just appearance at the dock. Some smaller catamarans that I won't name will creak and groan and the pounding under the bridge deck can make them terrible up wind in a blow. They place winches where they can't be reached, not with the 2-handed body core effort required to grind a genoa flat in a fresh breeze.

She battled through without complaint, though a few of the crew felt the motion. We forgot to tell them that hiding below is not the best plan. Jessica and I are--so far--immune to mal de mare, and so easily forget what others may expereince.And when we give advice, the victim is often disbelieving of simple cures to their life-threatening condition.

It has been calculated by the PDQ factory that capsize will occur at about 35 knots on the beam with everything in tight. I believe this is true. We sailed with a full genoa and 2 reefs in the main and certainly she got a little light in a few > 30-knot puffs, but still well within control.Like any multihull, she she point highest when pressed hard, tacking though 90 degrees at 8-9 knots.

And that is the story. Nothing broken, no one lost or injured, no one mad or made miserable. Perhaps a slight overdose of fresh air.

Dig the deck shoes, from  left to right: Borrowed from his dad, boots, and none.

Diesel and Condensation--It Is NOT a Myth

3-23-2013, rev. 8-1-2024

 

Not enough condensation to generate a water layer, but enough to generate haze, encourage bio-growth, and promote fuel system corrosion.

 

The bottle with the silica gel filter is noticeably clearer

Last year I performed dozens of tests for several Practical Sailor articles relating to vent filters and their ability to keep gasoline and diesel dry. Most of the focus was on w-10 gasoline;  I have gasoline engines and self-interest rules, and a regulatory change is requiring vent filters on new boats. We learned that the vent filters conserve fuel, reduce oxidation and reduce corrosion in e-10 gasoline. Also, I did do one quick test on diesel. Sure enough, when the temperatures and dampness were just so in the spring condensation formed in the jar with no filter and the jar with the silica gel filter stayed clear. There were small water drops on the bottom that mostly re-dissolved when temperatures rose.

 

 

The left bottle is sealed the right bottle is not

 

This year I repeated the test, including corrosion coupons in galvanicly coupled pairings, to measure any moisture effect on corrosion. And guess what; the sealed jar stayed clear and the vented jar clouded right up when the weather got damp in March (the test was started in December and the jar stayed clear until this week--the conditions must be just so). The corrosion coupons in the cloudy jar seem a bit worse, but I have not yet disassembled the bundle for examination. There are no added corrosion inhibitors or added corrosive elements (seawater or acid).

It also seems that the silica gel filters do not last as long on diesel (multi-season on gasoline but perhaps only a few months on diesel). I need to confirm this and to think about why it might be so. One reason is that the ethanol in e-10 gasoline tends to scrub the water out of the filter during exhalation cycles, a benefit that a diesel vent filter will not experience.

So much for those that proclaim water condensation in diesel to be a myth. Not too surprising, when we consider that water solubility in diesel is only about 500 ppm at 32F and that the diesel we buy is not completely dry (has some dissolved water). The effect seems quite reproducible, though the small sample size clearly exaggerates breathing. The 1/8-inch x 18-inch vent lines is based upon EPA work on fuel tank breathing and is intended to mimic a 1-year exposure in 1-month, based upon a 40 gallon tank.

What are the practical ramifications?

1. Keep the tank full to limit breathing? Maybe, but there is also an upside to adding fresh fuel in the spring. Do 2 and 3, and then top up in the spring.
   
2. Silica gel vent filter. I would.
   
3. Corrosion inhibitors. Absolutely.
   
4. Fuel polishing? 2 and 3 should prevent the need. If it recurred, I would build a system. based on a lower pick-up and a separate pump. High volume, because you want to catch the crap before it settles. A slow polish system only catches the stuff that didn't settle, and not the stuff that will get stirred up in rough weather, which is what worries me. 
   

Shifting: A New Morse MT-3 and New Cables

The sour note of our last sailing trip is that the starboard side of the MT-3 engine control and the port shift cable both packed-in on the way back. This left us trying to back into the slip with one person shifting manually and the other driving. Because we were far to timid with the throttle with this handicap we failed and pulled the boat in with lines instead, which is really quite easy, just not our normal way. But really neither failure was a surprise. The shifter had been gimpy fo ra year and I noticed a crimp in the port cable when I swapped the engines, but I was too tired to muck with it then.

I shopped around for pricing but found nothing much better than West Marine (I had a discount card handy) and I wanted to do the swap on the weekend anyhow; Jessica has an over night next week with some friends. Spring Break and all that.

The simplest way to run the cables is simply to couple the new to the old with a coupling nut--$0.57 each plus shipping from McMaster/Carr. Unfortunately, UPS didn't make it in time, so I had to go into the shop, play machinist, and make my own. Not difficult, with a bit of 1/2-inch brass rod, drill press and table vise, drill bit and #10-32 tap. Brass is a pleasure to machine, so only about 10 minutes. Thinner stock would have been better, but it is what I had.

The tools and parts:

• MT-3 controller. The starboard side unit had some problems, but the port side is still fine. Lots of good parts. Upon closer examination, the PO had changed the starboard cables and I think the controller damage was done during that effort. I believe they did not remove the fiberglass mount and that this caused them to force the connection (not enough room to work).
• 2 x 8-foot Teleflex Ultra 10-30 universal type 3300 cables. One was failed (cover split and rusting at the engine end), the other makes a good spare.
• 2 x 11-foot Teleflex Ultra 10-30 universal type 3300 cables. One was failed (swivle broken loose at the engine end and buckling), the other makes a good spare.
• Coupling nut. Possible without, but perhaps more difficult. 
• Waterproof grease. Never hurts.
• A few screwdrivers, scraper, needle nose pliers (for cotter pins and c-clips) and Vise-Grip needle nose grip pliers (for engine spring clips). Not very tool-intensive.

I'm thinking the increased flexibility of these upgrade cables may reduce the stresses placed on the cables when the engines are raised; time will tell.

The procedure:

• Release the cables from the engine connections (pull spring clips), remove the plastic end fittings and lock nuts, and pull out of the engines.
• Unbolt the MT-3 control from the fiberglass mount, cut the caulking loose and break it free, but do not it pull out.
• Remove the screws that hold the fiberglass mount to the bulkhead, cut the caulking and break loose.
• Thread 5 feet of rope through the fiberglass mount and suspend it up about 1/2 way. Easier to work with at this height and less cable friction when pulling. Place a towel behind the mount as you slide it down to prevent scratching the bulkhead.
•  Pull the MT-3 control up and remove the 2 screws that hold the halves together (just below the mounting flange, fore and aft). Separate.
• Remove and tag the neutral switch wires.
• Remove the end fittings from the control end of the cables.
• Pull the old MT-3 control out, one half at a time.
• Thread the new cables to the old cables using the coupling nut and pull. work slowly, pushing and wiggling and NEVER forcing. For starboard, stay well to starboard  when going up the bulkhead; the gap is wider and the run easy. For port it helps to reach in front of the battery box and help the cable make the turn. Also, push the cable across under the door more than pulling, keeping it LOW down near where the wires run; if you let it pull up high it will jam. Once across to starboard and visible in the engine well, pull up while feeding across.
• Set the new MT-3 to either pull-throttle or push-throttle, whichever you have. Look at the old control and consult the MT-3 manual. Easy.
• Connect the neutral switch wires.
• Connect the control cable ends. Connect the engine ends, and adjust. This is simple if the handles are in neutral and the throttle at idle. Get everything tight, as vibration will work them loose (when the PO replaced the cables he did not get one hard-to-reach screw tight and it came loose).

I suspect this could be done without removing the fiberglass control mount; the cables would pull fairly far under the battery shelf but you should be able to reach them. I did it this way because I had read a post that showed it this way. I think this way is probably easier.

All of this took about 1 1/2 hours including a lunch break, with the help of my lovely daughter. A one person job? Sure, it could be. In fact the easy button was working quite well and the job was not nearly the epic I feared. However, it's certainly worth replacing the lot all at once, though, onafter the controller is out.

Silky smooth, and very shiny!