Catamaran Slip for Cheap in Deale

 

Why catamaran? There's only about 5' of water and about 3.5 at extreme low tide (soft mud bottom). But there is room for 16' beam.

The previous boat was a Gemini.

Phipps Marina
Calvin Phipps
615 Phipps Road
Deale, MD 20751

410-867-0299

An earlier post has additional detail.

Drinking Water Filtration--The Short Version

rev. 6-21-2014 

(The LONG version was published in Practical Sailor in 4 parts in Spring 2015.)

The Problem. Marina water is basically untrustworthy. Either the well is brackish of the hoses are contaminated with algae growth. Either way, the water contains dirt and too much sulfur for pleasant consumption. In the midst of researching a 3-part article on water treatment and filtration for sailors I decided to apply what I'd learned to a simple up grade for Shoal Survivor. I'll explain a little--if you want the really long version,subscribe to Practical Sailor.

The Solution. The way I see it, there are 4 parts to the clean water quest:

Step 1. Filter the incoming water. Skip this step, even with potable water, and you will build solids in your tank. Pipe scale will shed, harmless bio-films in distribution piping will shed, and dockside hoses always grow algae. Build up solids on the tank floor, and disinfectants and the residual chlorine in the tap water can't reach the bugs underneath. Given time, biomass is food for bugs, the tank will be come gross. I've even seen lines plugged. My choice? First, run the water for a few minutes to run the junk out of the hose, perhaps rinsing off the dodger; it needs it anyway. After that, I like the Camco RV filters which simply screw on the end of the hose, $10 from Walmart. The marine store stuff is the same for 2-3 times the price. I put a 4-inch PVC pipe extension on the outlet so that it stands easily in the fill pipe.

What about the fact that the carbon filter will remove the beneficial chlorine residual? Opinions vary, but ...

• We've used these for 10 years and never built any biomass in the tank. If the tank stays clean and the carbon removes most organic material, there isn't much for the bugs to eat.
• The chlorine residual is not going to last more than 24 hours, and finally...

 ... Testing (mine and others) confirms that hose end filters only remove about 10-20 % of the chlorine anyway. The flow rates are simply too great to give the residence time needed for effective removal. Honest, it's a marketing hoax, but we're conditioned to buy carbon. A brief review of the certification documents will show that they are only required to remove 25% of the chlorine to claim "removal,", and the test was run at a greatly reduced flow rate. Get some aquarium test tapes and run your own tests. You'll be stunned.

A much better solution is a 1 micron Baja water filter, featured in Practical Sailor. My invention, you're going to love it. Perfect for tap water, rainwater, and jerry can water.

(And don't EVER put glycol in your tank to winterize. It will ferment, it will smell, and there is more than enough food to clog lines. Empty the tank and dry it. the glycol goes ONLY in the pipes. In the pipes it must be installed at sufficient concentration to serve as a biostat (pH >9, and >25% glycol). If the winterizing solution pH is less than 9, add a touch of borax to bring it up. the result will be an effective sterilizing solution and little or not need for spring cleaning.

Step 2. Disinfect the tank.  About 1 teaspoon per 50 gallons is enough to refresh the residual for good water. Better yet, try Aqua Mega Tabs; really convenient and because they are based on dichlorisocyanurinate, the chlorine residual lasts weeks instead of days, keeping the thank fresh. Tip: use 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended dose, as they are rather conservative. Use aquarium test tapes to test for residual (0.1-1.0 ppm).

Bugs that crawled into the venter filter in a single season.

Step 3. Secure the tank vent. Plumbing codes required a 16-mesh screen and a down turn protected from dust, but many boat builders just leave an open pipe--PDQ did. If you look closely, every so often there will be stink bug doing the back stroke or the bones of some no-see-ums on the floor, decomposing. And while your about it, make certain that seawater can't find its way in. Secure the vent.



Step 4. Filter the water prior to the tap. Even if you have followed all of the forgoing, something could have gotten past and the bleach will dissipate in a few days.

Just how big are microbes we are trying to exclude?

Organisms

Size range (microns)

Example (size in mcrons)

Cysts (NSF 53 filters                                     4-14                                     Cryptosporimium  (4-8)

Prokaryotes

Bacterium: typical rod

1.0-0.5 x 1.0-10

Pseudomonas aeruginosa (1.5 x 0.5)

Bacterium: typical sphere

1.0

Bacillus megaterium (7.6 x 2.4)

Eukaryotes

Fungi: filamentous Red Tide

8-15 x 4-8 5-75

Mucor hiemalis (8 diameter) (disolved toxins may be present in red tide)

Fungi: yeast cell

Saccharomyces cerevisiae (29-49.1 μm3)

Alga

28-32 x 8-12

Chlamydomonas

Viruses (NSF P231 filters)

Virus

0.015 x 0.3

Poliovirus (0.03 x 0.03)

Tobacco mosaic (0.02 x 0.3)

While cysts, fungi, algae and some bacterium can be filtered out with 0.5 micron mechanical filters, viruses require either adsorption mechanisms which are hard to define and fade as the cartridge is spent, or membrane filtration (RO through ultra filter). Several carbon block filters have been upgraded with a membrane on the inside, achieving NSF P231 approval (microbial barrier, tested with real bugs to block everything).

How are nominal and absolute filtration performance defined? There is no agreed upon standard, but generally speaking, nominal filtration requires 70-98% retention and absolute filtration requires >98% retention of inert test particles.

I could install UV sterilizers (too much power) or an RO system (they waste about 4 gallons for every gallon produced and they leak bacteria anyway), but I'm not nearly that paranoid. I've had no filter on the boat for many years, and I drank out of some real mud puddles in my backpacking days without ill effect.

I could install the Seagull filter($600-$1000 for a filter--they are completely out of touch with the market) or the equally effective Microguard by Pentek ($129 complete), or better yet, the Pentek DVG-50 (NSF P 231 certified, $131 complete), which are based upon less expensive standardized parts. Both are well tested and rated to remove cysts, bacteria, and viruses. The Seagull filter just costs more. But US coastal sailors don't need either.

My choice? In the US, water treatment and on-boat chlorination are very effective on bacteria and viruses. However, some protezoa and cysts can sneak by, resisting chlorine treatment. These are all we really need to remove at the tap. I like carbon block filters, available in 0.5 micron nominal filtration (Pentek  Slimline or G3 housing with 2x10 CBC-10 or Floplus 10) . They will easily stop of protozoa and cysts (NSF 53 certified filters are rated for this), >98% of the bacteria, and >90% of the viruses. True, viruses are smaller than 0.5 microns, but many are attracted to the carbon surface by electrostatic forces, just as other chemicals are adsorbed. Many bacteria and viruses are attached to larger particles and are removed in that way. Although removals vary according the referenced data source, by the combined mechanisms the reduction is still material. WHO has documented 98.5% reduction of bacteria and 88% reduction or viruses by simple sand filters--a depth filter with similar mechanisms and much larger pore size**.  Granted, it may only take one organism to infect you--I'd worry about that traveling in some areas--but not in the US. This little miracle is only $25 including the housing and replacement cartridges are available through many sources. The time to install? About 15 minutes.

We later switched to a 10-inch filter to get more flow--the Pentek CBC-5 in the photo was OK for drinking, but slow when filling pots and washing dishes. We switched to the Pentek Floplus-10, which is NSF 53 certified for cyst removal and does not restrict flow. The longer housing hangs closer to the floor, but only about 1-inch is required for removal, which can be done without spilling a drop.

(A note to PDQ Altair owners: that big grey carbon-reinforced beam crossing the forward end of the salon bench is the mast compression beam. Do not drill holes in the flange.)

 This universal housing in the photo is from Pentek (158203) was $11, the 0.5 micron carbon block cartridge (2 x 5 standard, Pentek CBC-5) was $10, and the fittings were left behind in a bag by the previous owner. It does reduce the flow at 30-40 psi (standard for boats) from a thunderous 4 gpm that splashed all over, to a somewhat slow 0.7 gpm, about like the refrigerator dispenser at home. It would certainly be suitable for smaller boats.

I later upgraded to a Pentek G3 2x10 housing ($9) and a Floplus 10 cartridge ($16), with about 4 times the flow; all I can use without splashing. I did not filter water for showers; pre-filtered and chlorinated US tap water is more than adequate. Do place any filter on the pressure side of the pump; the pump will cavitate trying to draw through a carbon block or any other fine filter media. I've had the same cartridge for 2 years, allowing it to dry out each winter in the off season and then re-installing. I'm very pleased with it.

The Result. When finished we did a blind taste test with 5 sailors along the dock; not one could distinguish the tap water from Deer Park bottled water (based upon mineral content analysis, the two waters are very similar). For the coastal US sailor, we have improved the taste as far as possible, and reduced the biological risk by at least 3 orders of magnitude. I feel I've reached beyond the point of diminishing returns clear to the point of no return.

I'm sure I've save the price of bottled water, and the reduction in hauling and trash has been wonderful.

---

The full version can be found in "Keeping a Cruising Boat for Pennies."

RO Water--What Are We Missing

 (This is a work in progress. I'll be back)

There's been a lot of talk on the web about distilled water and RO water being bad for you, leaching minerals from the body, cause heart disease and all that. Although we filter out most of what we read in the tabloid press and web, perhaps there is a kernel of truth, hear and there, accidentally, it seems. As I begin researching drinking water filtration for a serice of up-coming articles, I find there is substance to to concern over the lack of substance in pure water. While I'm not a health researcher, there is enough scholarly work out there by respected organizations to take seriously. I like reading things from the World Health Organization (WHO).

WHO Symposium on Low-mineral water.
WHO paper.

Please read these at length. Google strings with "drinking water," magnesium," and "calcium." Try to read between the fluff and ignore all sites that are selling something.

There are many concerns; the three that seem best supported by science are:

• Heart Disease. A shortage of magnesium is well correlated with certain forms. Also stroke.
• Kidney Stones. It seems that dietary supplements increase risk, while calcium in the water decreases the risk. Different absorption mechanism.
• Heavy Metal Absorption. If there is enough calcium in the system it out-competes many toxic materials. In fact, precipitation with lime is the basic industrial treatment for most heavy metals.

It seems all of that traditional stuff about healthful mineral waters had substance. Funny how that happens. Funny how your parents get smarter over the years.

What does this mean to the sailor?
 

Even though single-stage RO water (typical sailboat water maker) is not ultra low in Ca or Mg, it is considerably lower than most surface waters and lower than the general guidance available to us. I'm not sure what this means at a practical level. If you swim enough swallow a few mouthfuls of seawater, that's actually a good thing (a few percent seawater will solve the problem). Bottled water helps. Supplements may, but a dash of seawater in the cooking is simpler!

For coastal sailors I think the message is clear; using dock water with some on-board treatment (I'm researching that) is a better bet than running a water maker.

Jacklines, Tethers, and Why Monohulls and Catamarans are Different

Often I post just to help order my thoughts. Some comments are posted and some come by e-mail and are not posted. They all help.

I've posted on tethers many times, always with caveat that my views were catamaran-specific. Now I have begun with actual drop testing, with an eye towards a published article, and solutions must be more universal. Or at least we need solutions for all boats and all uses.

A few of my notes. Scary if you can read them.

The crux is figuring out where sailors actually fall.

The bow, catamaran. On a cat the bow is wide and you should be on the windward jackline, even if it is long. If very rough and I need to lean out to add something to a clew, I've been known to clip both the leeward jackline with the short tether and something else with the windward line (the windward line will not allow me to lean out). If you do happen to go over, there is no bow wave trying to suck you under and drown you; the hulls are too fine for that. Upwind, waves can come over and wash you around, but a tight line to the weather jackline manages that, and falling on a tramp doesn't hurt. Getting thrown forward is the greater risk, as the boat stuffs a wave and slows suddenly; the cure is to terminate the jacklines some distance aft of the bow, just as they terminate forward of the transom. A clipping point in the center of the tramp is often handy, as many cats lack a forward lifeline, and on many boats the lacings are strong enough and serve very well. Lacking that, adding several strong sewn points 3-5 feet aft of the forestay can be logical and simple. Because the tethers are long, stretch is needed to reduce impacts, but only when clipped to a hard point; jacklines provide cushion. Falling off the weather side is managed by running the jacklines well inboard--we've got wide decks.

Getting lifted off the deck is also a problem. Catamarans commonly experience negative Gs up front, and the best answer is to have a jackline you can pull up against, keeping the feet on the deck. Again, the jackline should be well inboard, since the lift can throw you to windward or leeward. Again, a hard point on the tramp near the forestay is handy; when kneeling near the forestay it is common to float upwards.  For the longer tether leg, shock absorption is nice; I've been thrown 12 feet before, airborne from the cabin roof, landing on the tramp. Between the give of the tramp, tether, and jacklines, not a bruise.

 Clip toe rails from underneath--clipping from above can torque the carabiner.

Catamaran, aft. The risk here is simply falling off the back, and stumbling cause by a cat's quick motion. Since the tether is clipped to a hard point, there is no shock absorption, and the tethers are long. Getting swept by away by a wave is a minor risk on most cats; forward, yes, but not in the cockpit, not ever. The boats move over and away from waves. However, tethers are needed when working outside and aft.

 Look at the corrosion in the stanchion socket.

Monohull, bow. The scary fall is to leeward, under the bow wave. Folks have drown there. And thus, a quick release is required, something of much less interest to a cat sailor. The answer there is a short working tether to a fixed point to weather, and a secure grip. It gets skinny up there, something cat sailors don't face.

Monohull, aft. All documented tether failures have been in the cockpit. The helmsman was stuck by a wave, thrown the width of the cockpit, and lacking any shock absorption (clipped to hard point by a static tether), overloaded the system. Broken ribs and other injuries due to tether impact forces were involved. There are 2 answers to this problem: clip short and use a dynamic tether.

Short, working tethers are important, particularly for boats racing in extreme conditions. Very few falls are documented while people are moving; they are holding on. It is when they get to the work station, take their hands off the rails and focus on the task, that they get thrown. Thus, there should be a good anchor for every station, located such that the sailor cannot get thrown. On boats prone to stuffing the bow--some cats and some sport boats--a tether from behind may be prudent.The new AC cup boats have a tether requirement, specifically directed at stuffing a bow when bearing off. Keeping sailors on-station can prevent a capsize, since they can still do their job. The personal tether must have a short leg, or a fixed tether can be provided at each station.

Dynamic tethers are another part of the answer. ISO standards now required a drop test that should create nearly unbreakable tethers, but they may break the sailor in the process (unlike climbing drop tests, they did not specify a maximum impact force). I'm still using 8mm dynamic rope tethers, which are considerable lower in impact and tougher (can absorb more impact) than ISO  tethers, but they have one drawback; the rope can roll under foot. I would love to find a webbing with required stretch properties, but I'm not certain it exists; the weave may prevent that.

----

There are other issues.

• The best quick release.
• The quick releases must be accessible when the PFD is inflated (most are not).
• Harness design. The ergonomics are terrible, but there is no practical test method, and short of a full body harness, no good way to transfer the load to a body without damage.
• Where you you park the spare tether leg clip when not in use? Don't clip it to your harness, or you will have no release. But most tethers provide no alternative. My advice is to add something.
• Folks don't like tethers, particularly if there is crew on board.  But is the crew skilled enough to get the chute down and get back to you? Hmmm.

---------

So what are your MOB concerns? Where can you take a hard fall on your boat? What have you witnessed or read of? We need data to design solutions. 

Speed Polar, PDQ 32/34

Several years ago, after I adapted to sailing my new-to-me PDQ 32 fairly well, I set about developing a speed polar diagram, to help me better understand how she could be sailed to best advantage. I'm a cruiser, not a race, but I like to get where I'm headed. As an engineer, I can't relax on a boat that is not well-trimmed. No, I'm not a trim and grind racer--I'll set things and let the autopilot keep her steady. But I like things set properly.

A speed polar will never be right and never be finished. Most properly, there would be a family of graphs, one for every combination of load, sea state, and bottom condition. This is just sort of average for me, with a little growth on the bottom, a tender on the davits, family, a mix of new and old sails, and fullish tanks. If you're a little slower, perhaps there is a sail adjustment that will perk things up. If you're a little faster, good! If you here of a speed several knots faster than what is here... I doubt it.

And if all of this is confusion and frustration, turn the page and don't bloody worry about it. There are days when I can't hit these numbers--perhaps a foul tide or sloppy wave conditions--and it just ain't worth stressing over.

Speed and course over ground vs. true wind speed. Where the curve ends the heeling force is too great for my comfort; sails will stretch, sheets must be out of the self-tailers, and someone experienced stationed on the winch.

Apparent wind speed at true wind direction vs course. This is the partner to the above graph. I generally reef when the apparent wind is over 21 knots up-wind, and 10-15 knots off the wind, depending on the sails and waves. I'll reef earlier if I simply don't feel like working so hard, am single handed, or if the weather seems changeable.

What is the Portsmouth Yardstick rating? While the US Sailing figure is based on limited information, it is rated at 72.5, which is about the same as the Stiletto and common beach cats. How could it be so close? The rating does not count reaching speeds, only windward/leeward, and the PDQ is pretty solid going to weather. How much have I shaved? I suspect the revised Yardstick is now  under 70, based upon side-by-side trials and the polar. Who'd of thunk?

And for those of you with PDQ 36s, I pulled this from a 1991 Multihulls test. I can't vouch for the circumstances, but I'm pretty sure she was factory prepped, fresh paint, empty tanks and no junk in the lockers, no dingy and hard top. Cheating, in other words. A little more weatherly (the jib is in closer), a little faster in heavy winds, and probably just about identical everywhere else when carrying a load.I also clipped the PDQ 32/34 curves where I think cruisers will reef. They did not. For the non-racer, pressing canvass that hard is just asking for stretch.

For comparison, the speed polar of a typical 41-foot cruising monohull (NTP 41). A different shape curve, weatherly in lighter winds, but slow in comparison in a breeze. An 8-9 knot speed limit; that just when it starts getting pleasant!

And just for those of you that care about measurements and PHRF ratings:

I - 40.33
J - 12.75
P - 35
E - 13.75

"P" is the luff length of the mainsail, measured along the aft face of the mast from the top of the boom to the highest point that the mainsail can be hoisted or black band.
"E" is the foot length of the mainsail, measured along the boom from the aft face of the mast to the outermost point on the boom to which the main can be pulled or to the black band.
"I" is measured along the front of mast from the genoa halyard to the main deck. The main deck is where the deck would be if there were no deckhouse.
"J" is the base of the foretriangle measured along the deck from the headstay pin to the front of the mast.
"JSP" is the length of the spinnaker pole or the distance from the forward end of the bowsprit (fully extended) to the front face of the mast.
"ISP" is measured from the highest spinnaker halyard to the deck.
"PY" and "EY" are, respectively the luff length and foot length of the mizzen of a yawl or ketch measured in the same way as for the mainsail.
"IY" is the measurement from the staysail halyard to the deck.
"JY" is the measurement from the staysail stay to the front face of the mast.
"LP" is the shortest distance between the clew and the luff of the genoa.

Input

Evolutionary biologists argue that the brain is an outgrowth and extension of the sensory organs, perhaps more than the other way around. If our thoughts are formed from perception, imagine the nightmare Doctor Doolittle's fantasy would be, your world completely ruled by smells, food, and hormones. Oh yeah, college....

In no particular order, mostly without explanation. It's all about the associations.

Sounds and Smells I Like

• Fresh cut grass. Of course. So we'll leave out the smell of cookies baking in the oven, the sea, and everything to do with my wife. Wind in the rigging, of course.
• The sound of a sailboat hull ghosting and kayak paddles dipping rhythmically. 
• Skis, biting hard.
• Sunscreen, an obvious association.
• An ice ax striking solid. The solid feel and deadening of vibration inside the shaft. Calms the nerves. Reminds me of adventures.
• Construction sounds. I think it reassures me that the economy is alive and vital. IT makes it feel like morning. Yet I dislike the city.
• Snow.
• Rain.
• Thunder... when not afloat. When afloat I pretend it doesn't exist.

Sounds and Smells I Hate

• Whining. Of course. My cat. So well leave out the smell of automobile exhaust in tunnels, canned
  
  laughter, and a fox in heat at midnight.
• The glop-pop sound an epoxy brush makes when you're 3/4s through the pot life. It must bring back subconscious memories of rushing to finish and fighting fiberglass that's sticking to the brush. Just like fingernails on a black board.
• Halyards pinging while trying to sleep. Actually, even day time, when it grates at me like untied shoes. Non-sailors often find it romantic.
• Seagulls, when I'm trying to concentrate. See "whining."
• Most cooking smells, not counting baking. But I like to cook. Go figure.
• "That's not my job" and all variations. See "whining."
• "I haven't been trained." See "whining."
• The ring of my phone. It means I'm going to interrupted by someone looking to make their problem into my problem. I don't mind the sound of your phone ringing--not my problem!
• Loud sarcasm as a substitute for humor. It's boring and tiresome.
• Cigarettes. Oddly, the smell is not so bad, but the notion that people are sucking down the smoke bugs me. I feel sorry for them.
• Pipe. I don't mind the smell, but certain formulations trigger an ocular migraine that leaves me partially blind for an hour. Happened once, for no good reason, 2/3rds of the way up a trad 5.10c lead; I had to wait for it to subside since I couldn't see my hands.
• Potpourri. See "pipe."
• Coffee. See "pipe."

Dynamic Travelers

Some lines cry out for low stretch; elastic halyards and genoa sheets both allow sails to become more full in gusts, exactly when flatter is better. For other applications some give is in order; tethers and anchor lines come to mind. Travelers fall in this latter category.

We know the sound of a traveler screaming across, and we all cringe, waiting for the "bang" that follows an accidental jibe. During a proper jibe we brake the traveler car's motion by controlling slack and easing it out, but mistakes happen. Some times we're short handed and a flying jibe in light air is not a terrible thing, not if the car was at least brought to center first.  Why not use nylon--better yet, highly dynamic climbing rope--to absorb the energy?

The same 8mm line I use for tethers. Notice the sewn eyes covered in rigging tape for UV protection; a knot would do, but testing for an upcoming Practical Sailor article about stitched eyes and another about chafe protection started some time ago.

It has been suggested--by folks that haven't tried it--that nylon traveler line will stretch too much. Nonsense, it's just a matter of selecting the correct size for the boat. Yesterday I took my PDQ for a blast in 15 knots sustained, right at the edge of reefing and hence at maximum main sheet loading. Slamming waves and powering through gusts, the traveler car quietly working through a 1/2-inch range of motion. For test purposes I have crash jibed in 15 knots intentionally, just to see what would happen; 2-4 inches of give and harmless thud rather than sharp impact. Obviously the jibes that can cause damage and normal working pressures are of a different magnitude. Unlike stretch which allows a genoa to power up, stretch in the the traveler releases pressure in the correct way, without affecting sail shape.

Yes, I can see and feel the line stretch in a breeze. The traveler may be pushed an inch further with the same settings as compared to light air, but a traveler is meant to be adjusted frequently and I would never notice were the line not marked. Why is it marked? In order to assure jibe shock absorption on gusty days it is important to maintain a 3-4 inch cushion from the traveler end stop, and a whipped marking shows that position at a glance.

What line size? For hand-tensioned travelers, 8mm should be about right for any size boat. For larger boats 10-11mm climbing rope is available. Simply use the same size as appropriate for polyester.

Climbing rope is available in sizes ranging from 7-11mm. Use dynamic rope (identified ans UIAA single ropes, 1/2-ropes, or twin ropes), not static rope.

Is Your Tether Quick Release Actually Quick Release?

rev. 7-23-2024

This tether was found by rescue workers at the Wing Nuts accident site; there were several fatalities.

Where do you clip the "spare" leg of a 2-leg tether? To the harness ring, or course, if there is no loop on the tether... and there is not. Pull the quick release and you are still attached by the spare leg. A potentially fatal design error.

This is dangerous even on deck--if the tether gets wrapped around a sheet or guy he has 2 clips to release to get free. Not good.

And this points a scary trend, where equipment companies design to standards but don't actually test the gear in the field. They give the gear to sailors to use, but that is hardly the same as structured testing where all likely use scenarios are systematically tested.

The solution? some brands are adding a ring or loop near the harness end. If you make your own, leaving the loop long enough will do. Or in my case, I simply clipped in a small biner to give myself a parking space.

The typical vendor response? "You should have a knife." Really? Many of us do carry a knife, but that's just one more thing to dig for while you're fighting for your life. You'll probably drop it. Why not just say "I shouldn't fall off the boat?"

Details

Most dedicated DIYs will recognize these:

These little cones are available for pennies at any Home Depot or paint store and keep your work from sticking to the work bench much more neatly than blocks of wood. Pick up a dozen.


And how do you take the niffy no-background pictures? With a cardboard box, some tape, thin paper or sheeting, and poster paper, a light tent is the trick. I like the daylight compact fluorescent bulbs.

New Main--Mack Sails

The original sail had slowly turned into a shapeless bag. I priced this one at the Annapolis boat show, and months later, here it is! Certainly, there are some adjustments to be made--batten tension, for certain--but the fit seems good.

I need to fabricate a proper tack strap. The original sail had foot slides, but this one is loose footed. I like it.

Note the jury-rigged boom strap at the clew. I'll have to sew something better... although this worked perfectly.

Draft forward, lots flatter

• 8.62 oz High Aspect Dacron Mainsail
• Five full battens with adjustable battslide fittings
• 3 reefs
• UHMW wear strips
• Sail area equal to original design specifications
• Standard boom cover

 And by way of comparison... Before. We'll be zipping to windward now!

Increased purchase. At about the same time I changed from 2:1 to 3:1 purchase. I changed the single block for a becket block and added a block to the upper becket. Not a big difference, but it allows me to do more adjustment without grinding

 No swivels of the tackle with twist and friction will increase.

 Why a snap shackle block? I had a spare, no other reason. Notice that I locked the swivel with cable ties.