Rockfish Season

A dull mini trip report. I warned you.

April 16th, or there abouts depending on  the year, marks the practical start of fishing on the Chesapeake with the opening of rockfish season. Crowds of boats create a near-party atmosphere, and perhaps a little pressure not to strike out. Since the minimum keeper is 30 inches, you have to catch real fish!

Predictably, the weather in April can be nasty, and this year brought cold, near gale conditions, and rain. A few days later the sun came out, the temperature hit 85F, and the wind was predicted to be 15-20 knots with gusts to 25 knots. Good for a sailor, if a bit much for fishing.

Also good for tempting my daughter and a friend--it was Spring Break--to join me. Winter sailing tends to be a solo affair. A good opportunity for some early season sunburn. We blasted to the weather on a very close reach under reefed sails at 8-9 knots until suitably upwind, ready to turn troll homewards for rockfish. A nice warm, gusty wind. Some chop, but not bad. Delight. Jessica elected to sit on the tramp and get soaked with 55F water. Oh, to be young again... no, I think not.

The yo-yos are mounted center, port, and starboard, and 2 more on 7-foot outriggers (bamboo poles, one hidden from view behind the mainsheet). We tried a variety of lures. For us, large Rapella diving plugs work for rockfish, and yellow hose eels for blues. But I try other thing occasionally, since someone always swears by something different.

More on yo-yo fishing here: Yo Yo Fishing

After helping dropping the main and turning down wind--3-5 knots is optimum for tempting rockfish so only a bit of jib is needed--the kids retreated to the port cabin for dry clothes and warmth; yes, it was 80F, but not when wet. The wind died and the seas settled, I set 5 yo-yos with an assortment of lures, and sat back to, well, do nothing. To listen to the lines squeak and waves slap. Unfortunately, 15 minutes into that bliss one of the yo-yos tripped--fish on! After winding in 150 feet of 80-pound test line we were rewarded with a 20-inch throw back, but rules are rules, never mind that same fish is available in the market every day. But that fish is different, caught off-shore beyond the reach of regulations, and that makes... some... difference. Still, even a throw back is better than getting skunked.

The VHF warned of a nasty gust front approaching (40 knots), so we made for a beach closer to the harbor; if we  were caught there, anchored, there would be no troubles. Why ruin a lazy day with work. The kids walked the beach and hunted fossil sharks teeth, while I finish a beer and and old movie. They returned, we tried to fall asleep on the tramp, and then headed in.
Of course, we reached the dock along with the gust front. It took 3 passes at the slip to out smart a brisk beam wind, but dock rash was avoided through firm application of throttle.

And I spent a few minutes fooling with fitting my new solar panels (2 x 85 watts). I came up with an adjustable leg design I'm happy with; it compensates for the arch of the deck, provides for cooling, and since I'll epoxy them on, avoids holes. I'll post something when the protect is complete.

A nice day.


The foot is 1/2-inch pre-laminated FRP with a 1/4-inch x 1 1/2-inch stainless rod tapped and epoxied in. It will glue to the deck with thickened West System epoxy.

Holding Tank Odors vs. Carbon Vent Filter

 rev.4-16-2017



PDQ did many things right, but they chose the holding tank vent location very poorly, at least on my boat. Anytime the boat is on the hook and aligned with the wind everything emitted from the vent is swept between the hulls, up into the salon, and out through the cockpit. We are aware of every flush within seconds.

Good holding tank ventilation--promoting good aerobic conditions--really helps. Unfortunately, our vent is practically at the dining room table. Even though our vent is plenty short (15 inches horizontal and 15 inches vertical in 3/4-inch tubing), it is still foul. I could simply move it, but then it would be too long.

Adding chemicals is easy and helps. In fact, it is a part of my solution. I've tested many brands (Oderlos, KO, WM, Camco, Thetford--See Practical Sailor reviews) and some really work. Camco Ultra Concentrate, Odorlos, Forespar Refresh, and No-Flex are favorites. You can add some with the first use after pump-out, or you can add some each day, as a bowl cleaner. This really works, treating the problem from two ends.

Some say the carbon filters are too expensive, $125/year and up. Well, not actually.

• They actually last 2-5 years based upon user experience. One-year replacement is only manufacturer guidance.
• Refills (if you make a re-fillable unit or refill a commercial units) are about $7 and take a few minutes; no longer than replacing the unit.
• A user-built unit can be built a bit over size, promising longer life.

The longer life is due to catalytic activity within the filter (oxygen breaks down the H2S into S in the presence of an active carbon surface) and regeneration in the off season (bleed-off during low load); we see both effects in industry. The ASTM laboratory method folks used to project life has 2 fatal flaws: it uses nitrogen instead of air (no oxygen), and it takes hours instead of months (to little time for catalysis and no reduced load periods).

Carbon vent filters can present an over- or under-pressure hazard, causing holding tank explosions and implosions if plugged; this has happened when the vent--filter or no--became plugged with mud dauber nests or poop. But this is a matter of proper installation. Certainly, just cutting the hose and inserting a filter in the line can be asking for trouble; refinery explosions have started that way. Did the accident investigation, have the tee shirt.

What are the installation requirements?

• The unit should be placed above the through hull so that it cannot get wet. Carbon does not function for gas absorption as well when wet, and a salt coating doesn't help either.
• There should be a by-pass so that if the holding tank over-flows or sloshes the filter will not be contaminated.
• The bypass must stop holding tank gases but pass overflows at low pressure drop.
• There should be a bypass vent (in and out) to protect the holding tank if the filter plugs.
• The bypass and back-up vents must be simple to maintain and not fail if dirty, corroded, or frozen. 

This system has been in service for seven years. The only change has been to replace the clear tubing with 3/4-inch white sanitation hose, to reduce permeation and eliminate kinking.

Simple enough. Our installation, in words:

• The vent comes from the holding tank to a tee. The vertical leg goes through a simple trap, like that under every home sink; this provides for by flow pass and while holding back sewer gas, just as it does under your home sink. The trap is a simple loop of hose. After the loop it exits the original through-hull.
• The horizontal leg of the tee leads to the inlet of the filter, through the filter, and exits the same through hull via a tee.
• The trap is filled with water (glycol in the winter). The trap is clear hose so it's obvious if it goes dry. Generally seawater splashes in and maintains the level, but if not, it is simple to refill. Additionally, if splashing does not fill the trap, glycol can be used , which will not evaporate. The clear hose was later replaced with Shields 148 white hose; although the clear was allowed us to see what was going with the trap, it soon began to kink and also permiated, allowing some odor in the compartment. The sanitation hose solved all of this. White sanitation hose is a bear to work with even in small sizes (the ends must be heated in hot water to fit) but it's about the only sanitation hose available in 3/4-inch.

The photo below shows the refillable end of the filter (2-inch Fernco no-hub stretched over the cap).

The filter is built from 12 inches of 2-inch PVC pipe; both ends are capped and 3/4-inch NPT fittings tapped in. The lower cap is cemented on, while the upper is sealed with a no-hub fitting. The varnished bracket was simple and a pleasure to build--two 2-inch PVC conduit clamps (Home Depot has these) would have been simpler, lighter, and less fun. The hose is clear and certainly permeable to stink; however, my holding tank is in a bulkheaded compartment so it does not matter. If the location were otherwise, I would still keep the loop clear, but I would make the other hoses sanitary grade to reduce odor and improve durability (much of the hose was late replaced with 148 series sanitation hose, as the vinyl kinked over time). The carbon is from an aquarium store; while not optimized for this application, it's available and suitable. Pelletized carbon will allow better airflow and better resist clogging than the fine granules more commonly used for water treatment. An air permeable open cell sponge supports the carbon at both ends, distributing air and keeping the carbon in place; the aquarium store should have that too. Pack the carbon firmly, tap it gently on a counter top for a minute to settle it in, use tight sponges, and slant the filter at least 15 degrees, all to forestall future settling and resultant by-passing. If you can hear anything when shaking the filter, you did something wrong.

 This test filter has been in service on a holding tank test stand since April 2011. I intentionally sourced everything from Home Depot or Petco so that the design would be simple to recreate. The hose is 5/8-inch.

Identical, except I made this one refillable (one end is attached with a boot instead of glue). In this case the hose is 3/4-inch (OEM spec on this boat). This one is in service on a PDQ 32, also since April 2011.

Note: We replaced much of the clear vinyl tubing with Sheilds 148 because of kinking problems. It's a bear to work with, even in small sizes, but it's about the only sanitation hose available in 3/4-inch.

The cost for the complete project was about $25, including the hose modifications, but the might-need drawer supplied a good number of fittings and tapping saved a few hoses and a few fittings. I think it might have been ~ $50 if everything came from the store. Carbon life has proven to be about four years, and service takes about 10 minutes and cost $7.

The down sides?

• If you have a monohull this may not work for you, a consequence of leaning over on the rail. Catamarans don't heel. You may have difficulty mounting the filter high enough. Power boats generally do not have this problem, but often they mount everything low under the floor and it fails because of that. Dumb.
• Back flushing the vent is more difficult. However, we've never needed to, since we don't overfill the tank and don't heel. This could be solved with a valve to isolate the filter (only the end near the outlet would require protection).
• Solids reduction is not as good as it is with chemicals and fresh air, but no worse than with no treatment. We've not had trouble pumping out. My suspicion is that serious pump-out problems are caused by non-flushable materials.

_____________________________

DIY Note,  2-16-2012
Internet posts on refilling filters. There are a bunch of them out there, and there are some falicies. I doubt any of them are getting full life. Please see my description, above.

• Don't cut the filter in the middle or even a short distance from the end; it must be cut at the end cap. Unless it is cut at the end, you will never get the unit completely full, which means the carbon will settle to one side and the stink will by-pass. In my design the inner pipe extends to within 1/2-inch of the end cap, the pipe is filled a bit proud, and the foam insert compresses when the unit is assembled. 
• No effective by-pass for waste. Folks mount filters in a location that allows it to get wet; that is the primary reason they need service. This guy gave some thought to the problem, but perhaps doesn't have the space for a proper cure.
• Pack the carbon in. Gently tapping the unit on a hard surface for several minutes while holding it vertically will settle the carbon. Put the end cap on in such a way that the foam supports at each end are compressed. The pressure will keep the carbon in place.

Working Marinas

At Phipps Marina people don't

• Wax boats
• Fly burgees
• Compare rating certificates
• Wear uniform polos and shorts
• Replace lines because they are--gasp--dirty
• Talk about racing
• Strut anything new
• Drive BMWs

Instead they

• Clean fish
• Saw, nail, and paint wood. Sometimes the smell of Coprinol lingers for months. It's different from the smell of varnish, I wouldn't want it on my boat, but I like it around. Something like the smell of freshly mowed grass, to me.
• Talk about years spent in the Merchant Marine
• Bring the kids along
• Work on engines
• Share information about WHERE and HOW to catch fish... and then catch them, without any teasing for striking out.
• Drive pick-up trucks 

I exaggerate, of course. Of the 16 slips, 4 are sailboats, soon to be 5. Most of the boats are in fine condition; they just tend to be traditional and utilitarian. A few charter. It's hard to convince anyone that there's much practical about a sailboat, not in a fishing marina, although the day I slapped a pair of 30-inch rockfish on the communal cleaning table I bridged some of the sailor-fisherman gap. We talk boats and fish more easily now.

Four generations of waterman--that I know of--have lived and worked on this property. I like it here.

                                      -  -   -   - 

Marine railways aren't so common anymore; travel lifts have taken over and for good reasons. However, the railway is still in regular use, perfect for wooden boats that can't--or shouldn't--stand the stress of lifting with only 2 slings. Planks are fitted in the old ways and aging hulls refastened. Workboats, always; never a sailboat.

Wind Vanes

rev. 4-1-2013

Warning: if you sail a mono-hull, none of this will make sense. Pointy bows and all that.

It seems with every boat it's taken several years to get a bow wind vane just right, to suit my tastes. Such a simple thing. I always have to break a few. I suppose I could be satisfied with a masthead fly, but I hate looking straight up--hard on the neck too--and I like watching the set of the jib at the same time; it's more important, after all. I should also add that I like a fly on deck primarily for jibes, more particularly when the spinnaker is up. Up-wind I watch the jib, but when jibing the chute gives no clear wind indication, and it's a help to a new helmsman; he can keep his head in the boat and not stare upwards like some disconnected mystic.

Prindle 16. I tried a few styles but settled on a Telo Cat vane that hung just below the jib bridle. It was sturdy enough to withstand trailering, was out of the way of the jib sheets, and since it was also below the bowsprit, it was protected from the spinnaker sheets.

Stiletto. The location just below the bridle was out: the jib was a hank-on and would hit it when lowered and there was no bowsprit to guard it from the spinnaker sheets. We settled on a conventional fly on the port bow; it was beyond the reach of the jib sheets, and because we did inside jibes with the chute, safe from spinnaker sheets. We did break it every 5 years or so, generally anchoring or such, since it was only a few inches from the bow cleat.

PDQ 32. I started out with the conventional fly on the port bow railing; I had 2 from yard sales and I liked the location. Unfortunately, we do outside jibes with the PDQ. Scratch 2 vanes (including a few repairs) within  a year. We even had a provision to rotate it out of the way when jibing, which of course defeated the whole purpose.

I tried yarn on the remaining stump of the vane. Better, but I broke the stump off and should have, by all rights, torn the chute several times.

So I invented the 5-minute flexible mount shown here. It's been in service for 6 years with no failures, took only 10 minutes to make 4 (2 spares), and consumed nothing but scraps.

• The top is 8 inches of fiberglass tent pole from a wrecked tent.
• The flex is 3 inches of polyethylene 1/4-inch ID airbrake tubing. Just a good press fit.
• The bottom is another short bit of tent pole and some cable ties.
• The yarn is... yarn. Acrylic stays dry and thus flies better than wool. Dark colors are best.

Just smooth all of the cuts with a grinder and  push it together. The tent poles are NOT pushed in very far; there are 2 inches of empty tubing that is free to bend. Make some extras, in case you do manage to break something.

I also keep yarn on the shrouds; it's personal tradition, not function. The airflow is messed up by the cabin and I seldom look at them.

Soft Shackles, Stropes, and Square Riggers

Amsteel and other high-tech lines have made crazy things practical...

• All-fiber standing rigging
• Fiber lifelines
• Safer jacklines
• Fiber shackles

 ... except now that I think about it, none of this is completely new. It's where we started, when the first sailor decided to raise a few sticks and a woven mat above his raft to save paddling home. Clearly, we've improved on those early efforts. First, we used tarred steel, and then stainless steel. Heavier and more expensive, but durable and non-stretch with great abrasion resistance. But we couldn't leave it alone. I'm glad.

Traditional spliced strope with wall knot stopper

One of the biggest trends we've seen in the past 50 years is away from things that can be made to things that must be purchased. Given the steady decline in the basic shop skills of the average sailor and the increase in the complexity of our world, this trend is unstopable. But I try. Many of us try, and that is one of the great attractions of Amsteel; that a DIY sailor can replace purchased rigging services and create something better. I like that too.


Soft Shackles. A cool little invention: the only thing is the idea is about 200 years old on boats, and as old as ropes in general. Every pre-teen girl learned to tie these when braiding friendship bracelets. Every old salt learned to tie a strop with a splice and a turkshead; They are strong, cheap, and won't jam if loaded sharply. I've seen them used to arrest cannon. Rather similar, I think.

Still a good idea today. When made from Amsteel...

• As strong as steel
• Won't scratch the gel coat
• Light
• Cheap
• Quiet
• No tools required to install of remove

Colligo Marine style soft shackle above.
Kolohov style shackle, below.

Not Difficult to make, just a diamond knot and a 12-strand splice, which has the nifty trait of sliding open and closed. 

I learned of the old style strop from The New Glenans Sailing Manual over 20 years ago. There they were recommended as a means of attaching jib sheets on a dingy that was releasable and not likely to draw blood when changing a flogging sail. However, their method was simpler, taking only seconds to make, a minute if you're meticulous. The instructions, below, are for 1/8" line, but it will work in any size; I've made them up to 1/2" line, which will hold over 8,000 pounds  (the line is doubled).

• Cut and seal a 12-inch length of 1/8-inch line. This can be longer, much longer, if a longer strop is needed.
• Double the line and tie an overhand loop near the bend, with the loop just large enough to pass a double overhand loop on doubled line without having to force it. Tighten by hand and with a fid in the loop.
• Tie a double overhand loop near the end of the loop. Leave enough tail to help pull the knot through.

For frequent use the eye is easier to thread if the loop is spliced and thus the tail is only a single strand. Often I use only the cover or core of a line (single braid), as it is soft, super easy to splice, and generally free (throw-aways, from core or cover stripping). For example, my mainsail gaskets are spliced cover-only.

Notes: A double overhand works as well as on double braid as a diamond knot; it simpler and though smaller, presents a very sharp edge and thus is perhaps just as opening resistant as the latter which is more rounded. A turkshead works in 3-strand, where a tight double overhand is impossible. A single line works fine for longer stropes. Webbing is a mistake; depending on how the webbing lies, there may be no sharp edge on the knot. The loop can be spliced or seize, but that is just more complex; I use the bulk of the knot to advantage on tarps and awnings by tying the knots on either side of the grommet, keeping the strop captive and safe from loss. Strength loss in the knots is largely irrelevant, as the strope fails where the loop cuts the stopper knot.

Done. I've used them for 20 years to secure tarps and awnings on my boat. I've never had one shake loose. Larger per unit strength than Colloigo Marine-style soft shackles and considerably more bulky, they still come in handy due to shear ease and simplicity.

I've tested a number of these, in different materials, to failure; they never slip and always fail by the loop cutting the tail knot off, at about 160% of the single line strength... unless made of Spectra, whereupon the the stopper knot becomes undependable diamond knot more reliable. On single braid Amsteel a tuck splice is faster than a knot and thus we have the Kohlhoff type, which is easier to remove after loading.

 To the right, a different style loop sewn from old 5/16 polyester.
Broke at line strength.


 Some applications, some for Amsteel shackles, some for polyester stropes:

• Attaching tarps and awnings. No knots to jam and no chance of scratching the gelcoat. Any length you want.
• Securing the horseshoe life ring; strong and fine in UV (unlike Velcro or bungees), yet can't jam.
• Sail gaskets. Unlike Fastek fasteners they won't shatter when you step on them, are easier to manage than knots with gloves on, and never jam. This is my every-day use.
• Non-jamming reef knots (multiple knots accommodate 1st and 2nd reefs).
• Securing halyards and preventing slap. Less noise and no scratching of the mast.
• Towing a tube full of kids; a metal shackle would make the floating tow line sink and a knot will jam. 
• Chain-to-snubber attachment.
• Securing rope coils

There are more modern solutions, but this remains a useful trick to keep in your toolbox. A gift from the golden age of sail.

 

and this from a 1976 Sail Magazine article on tall ships (that was the year of the Bicentenical and the big get-together; Rememmber?

 

Messing About in Boats

At some point we become so accustomed to winter it loses its bite and 45 degrees seems warm. Too warm for snow and ice sport, at least, if not warm enough for lawn chairs. We've spent too much time in the house, whatever task were assigned are either finished or won't be. Sunday was such a day. The wind had blown 30-50 knots from the northwest for days and there wasn't likely to be much water in the Bay. Never mind. It was time to get out of the house.

It was still cold mid-morning and the water was very low, but I was unconcerned; the sun would warm the deck, the heater would warm the cabin and the water would come back by noon since the wind had stopped. I had a few lazy things to do.

• Fit a new chain hook design, fabricated while bored in mid winter. I didn't like it so well as this one: Chain Hook For Catamarans
• Measure the holding tank vent and ruminated on changes. I'm doing a new bit for Practical Sailor on the subject and one's own boat is always the primary test bed, the experience best understood.
• Bum some Phifertex and Sta-Glas scraps from the local canvas shop. They often have mercy on those with tiny repair needs.
• Uncover the tender. Heavy snow seems unlikely (we got a few inches 2 days later, of course)

Those things didn't take so long. I started the engines, allowed them the the long warm-up winter requires, threw off the lines... and went 3 feet before the mud grabbed the keel. Well, no surprise, really; I brought a book and lunch and would make use of them. No hurry.

I decided to poke around in the tender, having fabricated a few reasons: it needed air, which can only be added when floating; I like to run some gas through it on a regular basis; I'd seen a sailboat aground in the harbor entrance which I might visit.

The boat was still there, aground for at least 5 hours, much of that with sails up. I don't know why he left the sails up, as they were only driving him further on. His first question to me, after a greeting, was about the location of the channel and when had it moved. The neat double row of red and green day marks 20 feet to his north didn't register, for some reason. He was well and completely stuck, though not leaning. His boat was also in such repair that calling Seatow seemed unlikely.

Having nothing to do, it seemed only proper to give what help I could. I've never had a serious grounding of my own nor any opportunity for real practice, and learning is always worthwhile. After many years of paying for towing insurance I let it go this year; I've never used it and likely never will. With 2 engines, sails, anchors, and a tender, I can't foresee many situations I can't work out that would be still be considered simple tows. I would also, right or wrong, consider a tow embarrassing.

I ran out an anchor for him (note: a 25-pound CQR is a heavy kedge; a Fortress is MUCH better) without any difficulty. Good practice. But it didn't help. I took his jib halyard, tied an additional 75 feet of line to it, and hauled that to one side to heel the boat. She leaned nearly to the rail did turn in the direction of the anchor, toward the channel, but didn't move far. We didn't break anything, but neither did we free the boat. Still, the tide was rising quickly and within an hour she lifted just enough to winch herself free, just as the tide reversed. A few hours later, my new friend was over the horizon.

Shoal Survivor too, had floated free. There's not much to tell about a quiet afternoon on the Bay. I shared my bit of the horizon with only 3 boats. I read a few chapters of fiction, walked the deck listening to the whisper of the water, and enjoyed a cold beer. There would be no crowd at the marina to nod approvingly if I docked well in the cross tide, or to empathize if I didn't.

I tucked her back into bed for a few more weeks of rest. Summer's coming.

When the Water Gets Too Firm for Sailing...

White Oak Canyon, Shenandoah National Park, with friends. I did get a small shiner from a falling icicle that tapped me on the side of the head, but overall, a very relaxing day.

 

For sailing, I wish it was warmer. For climbing, I wish it was colder. Just no satisfaction....

For the non-climbers, a few points of explanation:

• The hands are leashed to ice axes, which are sharp and designed to hook into the ice very strongly. Generally, a single sharp blow in the right spot (where the ice will not shatter) is all that is needed, rather like trying to set a roofing nail with one strike. Well placed, they can hold 700 pounds each... or nothing at all when placed poorly.
• The boots are armed with crampons, with sharpened points about 1-inch long. They are either lightly kicked or firmly placed where they can bite. The trick is to place them and then relax, without cutting your lifeline, the rope.
• If the rope is above the climber, it is a top rope, like the local climbing wall. Good if the ice is melting and less than secure. Falling becomes casual.
• If the rope is below, it is lead climbing. I have placed screws that can hold more than 2,000 pounds... if I have chosen the right place and the ice is good. I will fall some distance, perhaps 15 feet, until the rope catches. If the ice screw fails, I would fall past the next one; in this case, since the next screw is quite far below, I would hit the deck, about 40 feet down. It's best not to fall even the shortest distance on ice, since the crampons often catch, causing broken ankles.

Photographs by Dave Rockwell.

PDQ 32 Price sheet, 2002

Tip for the Day: Gycerin to Seal Inflatable Tender Air Valves

rev. 7-22-2024

For years I have been fighting occasional air loss; often I would have to pump it up every few days, sometimes every week or so. I tested it will soap (no bubbles except a few at the air valves) and sealed anything that looked like it might be worn.

Just a dab of glycerin in and around the valve seals reduces leaks for 45 days or more. It is very slow to dry, perhaps several months in the open and slower in a valve. There is no potential to damage any of the seal or inflatable components. There is no mess; any spillage washes off. And there are certainly auxiliary uses in the medicine cabinet.

Why does it take so long to learn simple stuff?

---

Yes, you can replace the valve assembly in quality inflatables. It's not that hard, but it's not trivial and  if the fabric is old it is possible the leak will be worse. When glycerine no longer seals your valves, it's time to break our the wrench and replace them. A special wrench may be required. The one time I did this, the plastic wrench came with the valve kit. Hint: glycerine can be useful for lubing things up, during the installation, but K-Y works even better. K-Y was invented as a surgical lubricant.

Stiletto Footage

Such a fun boat to sail. So easy and fast. I miss her... on nice days.

Vintage footage, from the original promo; So 70s.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcuAKqrV-MU 

Knuckle head sailing; lots of helm because the traveler is ridiculous... and yeah, I'm not so old that I missed the bikini:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PbZvfqlcHU&feature=related

 

And some more hedonistic stuff:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfE3A2NVqEA&feature=related




Of course, the PDQ will get, if the wind is up, but right now I'm stuck at home with a head cold.:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtfdWc1BuDY


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrAi8Uuek4Q




Only the last clip is mine; I shot it just because someone asked about wave action under the deck, up-wind.