A Windlass Transplant

rev. 3-13-2012

Lewmar Sprint 500 to V700, that is.

This turned out to be much more of a drop-in replacement project than I figured on. Everything you need, save a few crimp fittings, 2 screws (for the breaker plate) and some sealant comes in the kit. The mounting template was very close, with only one new hole and a very small amount of Dremel tool work. The wire supplied by PDQ was oversize (#8 AWG) for the Sprint 500 and is completely adequate for the more powerful V700.

Photographed before trimming, the cut-outs are nearly identical. Only a small half moon cutout on the right and a little trimming near the bow were needed. All edges were sealed with epoxy when finished. The plate in the photograph is the backing plate, later fitted under the deck. However, it makes a better trimming guide that the paper template included. Just trace up tight and trim. The 2 bolts in the aft end were simply dropped into existing Sprint 500 holes. The forward hole for the Sprint 500 lines up with one of the holes in the backing plate too... but it's the wrong hole and you will need to drill.

I had already replaced both of the foot switches earlier in the fall, both failing within weeks of the other. By Vetus, available from Defender Marine. If yours are weathered and cracked, cheap as I am, I would replace them at the same time.

The breaker is just a bit larger than the old one (25 amps vs. 35 amps). A few minutes with a saber saw fixed that.

• Tape around the hole to avoid scratching the gelcoat.
• Use a fine blade with reversed teeth, often marked "laminate." The teeth push down instead of pulling, eliminating the risk of chipping the gelcoat.
• Since the interconnecting wires are short,try to trim the hole closer to the solenoid, without quite hitting it.

The solenoid wiring and the back of the breaker are a bit fun to reach. In fact, the new windlass used the SAME contactor as the Sprint 500 and there is no real need to replace it, other than that the V700 comes with a new one in the box. I did replace it, not realizing this until the old one was out (the labeling is on the hidden side).

• Wire the breaker by pulling the wires through.
• Use grease on ALL connections. I like No-Alox by Ideal and No-Oxid by Sanchem Inc. (which is harder to find), but anything waterproof will do fine. 
• Clip all of the cable ties on the wire bundles before mounting the components; the reach is a bit more and there will be too much stress on the connectors unless you pull a little slack in. Replace them when you are finished (the picture below shows why this is a problem).

Always check the "after" photos; I didn't realize until writing this that the upper disconnect fitting has nearly pulled off! A simple fix on the next visit. I really dislike slide disconnects; they are the only fittings were I have experienced corrosion failures (shower sump pump) and they did poorly in the Practical Sailor salt corrosion tests. 

The presence of exposed (and in this case un-fused) terminals on the breaker and solenoid is a serious violation. I will be building a box around the area and covering the terminals, But just for the record, this was the builder! PDQ was solid on most things but some how missed this lone installation, where the quality of work is lower. Perhaps a subcontractor?

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A piece of cake. When I first switched it on from the cockpit remote I said "darn, what is it now?" I could hear the click but not the windlass. It was that quiet. The old gears and bearings in my Sprint 500 were apparently in extreme disrepair.

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Notes 3-13-2012:

• Fixed the wiring installation flaws.
• Much greater pull than the Sprint 500. I'm glad I didn't repair the old one.
• Keep the clutch wrench handy. It needs to be quite tight to achieve full tension.
• Keep the anti-drop pall disengaged. If you try to lower with it on, there will be quite a strain. If you have a chain lock, what purpose does it serve? I may remove it.
• Consider running out all of your chain and then reloading it under a watchful eye; somehow, I got a kink in the chain, which was a minor pain the first time I deployed the anchor. No harm, but a pain.

10-29-2012: After a season of service, no comments. The extra power is nice, particularly since I switched to a Manson Supreme 15kg and all-chain rode; the Manson can really dig in and the chain is heavy if the water is deep.

1-15-2015: Still good.