Mooring Bridles

Why the post? Mantus Anchors has given me a bridle and chain hook to test for Practical Sailor Magazine. The quality of construction and detail work is exemplary; good splices, good hardware, and good chafing gear well secured with stitching. The design of the hook is both simple and elegant and may be the new "best"  design at any price. I will spend this summer finding out.

At the same time it is apparent to me that there is no single right answer for the bridle itself. While the Mantus construction is absolutely first rate, every situation has a best answer. They have made conservative choices, and I respect that.

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For monohulls, a bridle is often used to take the chain load off the windlass, the surge load off the roller, absorb the wave shocks that chain can't, and perhaps keep the boat a little better into the wind. For catamaran bridles are a daily essential, since moored to a single bow they sail at anchor.

The Basics

The Need

• Multihulls must be moored on a bridle or they sail all over the place. With a bridle they sit steady like a rock, the long legs providing the leverage required to keep the nose right into the wind.
• Multihulls with all-chain rodes need the shock absorption. They often anchor in water more shallow than monohulls; a relatively short rode and steeper waves increases the tendency of steep waves to snap the rode tight, creating forces far beyond anything the gear can handle--boats have been lost this way. To prevent this, the legs must be long and sized correctly.
• Some bottoms provide poor holding and anything that can reduce forces will help keep the hook in the bottom.
 

The carabiner hook is for moorings.

The Requirements

• The legs must be at least 1 X the beam or they can be difficult to rig in rough conditions. It is good to have the option of working from either bow. This is also a good minimum for keeping the boat straight.
• They must be adjustible if needed. When tying to a mooring ball it can be very handy to shorten them, to hold the ball between and away from the hulls. If the waves are coming at an angle, for example around a point of land, it can be helpful to angle the bow.
• For permanent moorings they only need be strong. Nylon will stretch enough.In fact, often it is desirable to limit stretch to reduce movement in the chocks and chafe. Polyester and even Amsteel can be good choices.
• For anchoring they need be long enough and thin enough to provide stretch. One size lighter than the anchor rope is probably a good starting point, since there are 2 legs carrying the load (though there is some angle). Even smaller can make sense and give a smoother ride, if they are longer (1.5-2 X beam) and replaced more often.
• 3-strand, braid or even climbing rope. Braid and climbing rope have considerably better fatigue life when loaded heavily, particularly in smaller sizes.
• Chafing gear.
• A means of attaching the bridle to the chain that will NOT fall of when the chain is bounced slack on the bottom (back to that shallow draft thing). Ordinary chain hooks can and do come off. A plate is a good method. So is the Mantus chain hook. Or rather I will find out. 
• Rolling hitches and cow-hitched slings also work well, for attaching the bridle to the chain and have advantages: easy to release, feed through rollers better, easy on the chain (no wear on the galvanizing) cheap, and totally dependable. I prefer a hook simply because it is a little faster, but that doesn't make me right about this. I use these methods when setting a second anchor (to connect the rodes) and have never had a problem.

The Engineering

What line, how long, and how strong? Like most things, there is not one answer, but I will describe what makes sense for me. Your situation may differ.

For permanent moorings--something I very seldom use--the answer seems relatively simple; plenty strong, at least as heavy as the anchor line but more likely up one size, any rope type, and just sort enough that the ball cannot touch the hulls. Lots of chafe gear. If storing my boat on a mooring I would favor over size line and preferably limited-stretch line to limit movement in the chocks. But like I said, I have no extended real world expereince.

The Mantus bridle package. Heavier line than I use on the Chesapeake, but better for durability and rough use.

For anchoring in open areas. I avoid them, and avoiding them is generally easy on the Chesapeake.

• One size lighter than the anchor line. The load is shared and we can use some stretch. Has to be strong enough to endure full chain working load,  but remembering that it is backed-up by the chain and will be replaced every few years.
• At least 1X beam length per leg, preferably more. If there is ANY risk of serious swell in shallow water, 2X beam is prudent. While the chain can absorb gusts and vears, on the bridle is available to absorb a quick rise of the bow caused by waves during gusts that already have the chain straightened out or effectively straight. The chain may not be in a completely straight line, some few feet may even remain on the bottom, but further strain provides no significant lengthening in the few seconds it takes for a wave to pass.  If this bow rise is 4-6 feet, then the bridle must stretch perhaps 1/2 of this, or perhaps 3 feet. Thus, at least 25 feet of bridle are needed.

For anchoring in soft mud, where any harsh treatment can precipitate dragging, an even softer catch is needed. By far the most common anchoring hazard of the Chesapeake Bay, dragging is common and rode failure is VERY rare. Additionally, this soft catch makes setting the anchor easier, even with new-age anchors; I have a Manson Supreme and previously used a Delta. While chain help keep the shank down, the extra cushion of rope helps too, particularly in shallow sets.

• Two sizes lighter than the anchor line. Where I might use 5/8-inch anchor line, 3/8-inch is perfectally acceptable for a bridle/snubber. I've used old rock climbing lines and been very satisfied, replacing this every 100 uses or so.
• Replace more often. This is not just for wear. The ability of line to stretch fades after a few thousand hard cycles. When the line stiffens noticeably and it is time for replacement. The change in hand is often apparent.

What about strength? the apex is formed by an eye-splice with a thimble and then a Y-splice about 16 inches further down, all proffessionally exicuted and covered with hollow webbing for chare protection. The question is, how does a Y-splice react to broad Y angles? While I'm sure it is 100% strength at shallow angles, when shortened for mooring balls what happens? Given that the Mantus bridle is conservatively constructed this is only an engineer's curiosity.

And what about double braid? The apex will then be formed by either a figure-8 knot (80% strength at low angles, 60% strength at >90 degree angles) or a seizing.

What about 2 legs joined with a shackle? This is quite prone to failure as the angle becomes too wide. I'm sure many of us have destroyed a shackle when it shifted such that the load cam on cross-wise and the threads stripped. Two legs to a plate is tough on the plate but can be designed for. Mine is.

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So do your own math. Your anchoring habits may differ.

Rev. 6-16-2013

Inicial testing.

• Deploying. the bridle can be fed through the roller to the chain and deployed from on-deck, no problem. It will not bounce off going over the roller; I tried this repeatadly and it never shifted. No tendancy to hange-up either.
• Flipping the hook off. While this is possible, it require preactice. It seems clear that it would be nearly impossible to happen inadvertantly, FAR less likely than a conventional hook.
• Flipping of when setting on the bottom. Improbable in the extream.
• Retreaval. While it's possible to flip the hook off, reaching over may be easier. It is not generally practical to bring it up throug hthe roller, at least not on my boat; jams every time. But it comes off very easily if I reach over with one hand.

I'm not yet certain I would use it on a mooring for perminant attachment, for months unattended. I think it would be fine, but I prefer the 100% security of a chain plate with a latch. But for typical cruising, I think it is my new favorite.  

Exploring a Muddy Creek

Just an uneventful trip report.

June 8th

After a friday filled with torential downpours and with the a Saterday prediction of light winds and drizzel until noon, I thought a short solo trip to the Rhode River was in order. There were some paddling grounds I wanted to explore and ther area is generally so crowded on summer weekends as to be unpalatable.

By noon I reach my destination, anchored near Big Island, and set off to explore the Smithonian Research Center marsh. I was alone, with not a boat or person in sight.

While certainly ecologically diverse, this day it seemed lacking in asthetic charm. But a nice paddle. Perhpas the most interesting feature is the 500-foot long fish fence at the mouth of the creek with a sole and rickety 6-foot entrance gate, 12 feet when both wings are open. Fish thrashed all along the fence, confused by this manmade obbstruction. Useful for survey work, but perhaps harmful in the process, as wittnessed by the carcasses trapped in the fence.

I paddled back to the boat, ready for a rest and a beer, rounded Big Island... and found over 20 anchored boats were now scattered about. By evening this would swell to over 40. So much for solitude.

The guide books tell of the three islands of Rhode River Bay:  High Island, Low Island, and Big Island. High Istland, so named because it had a sharp little summit 30 years ago, slipped below the water about 10 years ago, leaving a large sandy bar only a few inches below the water at low tide. Relaxing to wade about and get splashed by the leaping wakes breaking over this sudden upthrust bottom, I'm surprised it is not a kid-magnant. But I never saw any other person vist. Perhaps they expect the standard Chesapeake mud bottom instead of hard beach sand. Their loss.

Low Island has a nice beach, which the geese and dogs visit to the point of abuse. Partyers with 18-foot run-abouts and bow-riders flock. I don't see the charm.

Big island is only briefly mentioned as "inhospitable." I don't think they ever tried. There are a few moder ate beaches on the southern tip, backed by inpenatrable wetland. There are tangles on the west. But there are many small beaches, both at the edge of clifs and along the east side that quickly lead to a broad sumit of open forrest and mountain laurel that is simply spectacular in early summer. A delightful retreat to the forrestes of the blue ridge, hiden in a crowded Chesapeake river cove. 

I went back to my private mountain retreat a second time later in the afternoon. The sounds are so different from those on a boat, as though I had traveled hundreds of miles in 30 yards. I had to marvel at the fact that in the midst of all this relvery and clammer, that I saw not one foot print or brokken stick, not one empty can or any sign whatsoever of man. Only a few game trails. I've hiked off-trail for miles in the Shenandoah seaking trackless country, and here I found a wonderful patch, hidden by limitied guidebook authors. Now you know.

Western shore of Big Island, Rhode River, with Contes Warf in the distance.

June 9th

A lazy sail home in light winds. I could have hoisted the chute, but I had only a short distance to go and a desire to make it last.

There was one other place I wished to explore, but the lack of convinient harbor had prevented any visit to this nearby creek, just 1/3 mile north of (not so) Deep Creek. In fact, The water shoaled so quickly to 3.5 feet that I was forced to anchor nearly 2/3 mile offshore, in the open. With a hard sand bottom, this presented little risk. The more serious risk is that the dingy outboard would get stuborn, and to row against wind and tide for that distance is impossible. In retrospect I should have towed my kayak, which would have had several advantages:

• Better exploration abilities.
• A way back to the mother ship. The tide and wind would pose only minor irritation.
• A way to tow the dingy back. While this seems funny, the paddling ergonomics are so much better that towing is quite practical.

But I didn't.

As I entered the mouth of this un-named creek a bald eagle lifted from a dead and broken snag, always a good omen. I went the first 24 years of my life never having seen one of these birds, yet this spring alone I've seen 6, the result of time spent in the right habitat and a reflection of their remarkable recovery. Just inside the inlet the water quickly became too shallow even for my dingy and I returned to the mother ship rather than risk a broken sheer pin. But I will return, either by Shoal Survivor or by car-top if I can identify a convinient put-in. The creek and the shoreline thereabouts deserve further exploration.

No pictures. In addition to forgetting my kayak, I forgot the camera. Dunce.

Runt Steps

As near as I can tell, the helm of my boat was intended for a 7'4" helmsman. That's how I see it.

Our delivery trip included bashing up the Chesapeake in gale conditions (35 knots but not too many waves as the fetch was minimal); a harsh way to get to know your boat. It didn't take long to realize that my feet were 6 inches from the floor and that every time I turned the wheel left my body would rotate right. The following week I built a simple a runt box. It was a temporary affair that worked well enough that I didn't revisit the subject for four years. Other PDQ sailors have similar runt boxes. It has become the standard cure.

I often cruise the cast-off piles at local marinas. A few years ago a Prout owner threw out a heavy 3/4-inch floor section of mahogany/holly laminate; solid wood in alternating strips. Nothing wrong for the most part, but there was  split and some damaged edges. I took it home for the scrap heap. I've cut a few projects from it.

I cruise blogs, often seeing projects that spawn other ideas. An interior nav station project made me think of this. About 2 hours labor to trim to size, finish, through-bolt in some mahogany cleats for it to rest upon, and caulk into place with polyurethane.

I think it turned out very well, indistinguishable from a factory effort, perhaps better.

• Better footing that the box since it cannot shift
• Nothing can fall behind it
• An inch higher and a little wider
• More storage space

The non-slip finish is an experiment, based upon a post by Windborne. The last coat of varnish is laid on thick and sprinkled with course-grained salt from a grinder. When dry, the salt is washed away leaving a non-aggressive non-skid finish and is easy and easily redone when worn. Not for steps or other critical high-impact areas, but it look better than sand-varnish, is simpler, and is more simply redone. So far I like it.

Epilogue: The old runt box has not been retired. It is a member of the crew and serves too many other purposes, among other things, supporting the pilot berth. It will retain a well-earned rank of honor.

Hang em High Part II--Getting the Motors Out of the Water.

Dragging the motors is slow. Worse, keeping them wet is a great way to speed corrosion, the most common cause of death in outboards. The original motors tipped up nicely and lower nicely with latches and lines. Well, until the latch mechanism corroded up tight. But they still went up and down with lines easily enough, lifting clear of the water and held fully down by a sea belt strap.

My new motors latch up and down nicely. Yes, I have to lift the seats, but I've made no effort to convert them to the original line system. The new motors have a manual choke that I need to set, I like to see the water stream, it makes me double check the lock, and it encourages me to check the oil more often. The only problem is that if I pull them full up and they latch, there is no room to insert your hand to release the latch? Even worse, sometimes they are so tight that there is no slack to release the catch and they cannot be lowered without considerable effort, time, shoving and bruising. I spent a season trying to pull them "Just" short of latching, but then they often touched the water even at anchor. Not good. PDQ seems to have good dimensional quality control; the fit problem was identical on both sides.

Some friend suggested wedging the transom to change the latch angle. workable, but that wouldn't get the lower unit fully out of the water. I like it pulled up tight to the hull.

A little trimming was the answer. First some rough cuts with a hole saw and saber saw, then some finishing with an angle grinder. Finally, several coats of epoxy to seal the wood. Yes, wood. The PDQ has an odd mix of solid glass (winch mounts and below the water line), foam (decks and cabin top), balsa (interior bulkheads), and ply (interior equipment mounts, engine mounts) as core, each employed where it was best for the job.

Nice and high now.

Wear and Tear

Time. We do the maintenance, build new, and still we go backwards if we glance away too far or for too long. We wonder about others that let things go, often for want only of some paint in time or a nail the right place. We try to balance effort and reward.

Aging has its own charm, we pretend, if we look at the changes as "character" and texture, but only when carefully groomed and cultured is it valuable, different from just "falling apart."

 
Parts of me are falling apart--no doubt about that. Today I looked forward to opening my afternoon mail to a new DonJoy Playmaker knee brace--I wore the old one out--rather than something fun.

 

On the other hand, I also got my new Chesapeake Bay Magazine Cruising Guide. I'm planning a busy summer!

Better Boarding--Extended Transoms

rev. 6-3-2013

On my last boat I had a few grand projects in mind that I delayed too long. They would have been fun. Extended length and beam, extended rig. On a Stiletto they wouldn't have been big money and they would have been exciting. I dithered too long.

I really like my PDQ 32. It may be the last boat I own. It certainly has the basic durability, I have determined that I am unlikely to cruise beyond the Chesapeake, and if I do ZTC has proven that is no problem. I like the smaller size as everything is lighter, and my joints aren't getting any better. I like the ease of getting slips.

So what would I fix, if I had a dream list?

• AC. I hate the Cruise-n-Carry, but for now it will do. I will build something in when it breaks.
• New mainsail. Mine has a terrible leach. Easy, I'll order a new one in a season or 2.
• Pitching. Longer is better.
• Easier boarding for my wife. She has a fake knee, balance issues, and the nastiest ankle fracture I've ever seen, right through the joint surfaces. The cartilage in my right knee is also fading fast and I've been told further surgeries won't help. I wear a big knee brace a lot.

And that's that whole list. I'm OK with the outboards. I like the kitchen and I like my propane heat just fine (we did a long cruise on 25-40F temperatures this winter and it did very well). I love the aft cabins and I love the 270 degree view from the salon. I like the size; bigger would mean bigger anchors, bigger sails, more maintenance, and higher sheeting loads. Not useful in a small place like the Chesapeake Bay. I like the small size for the smallest of harbors.
______________

Before

I am considering low transom extensions (like PDQ 36 Pacifica) rather than the high-sided extensions seen on the Seawind 1000/1000XLs; though the aesthetic is nice, blocking the sugar scoop steps is incompatible with disabled access. There are a few faults in the Pacifica-style  extensions (did not follow hull lines but swooped up too quickly for best efficiency and profile was not faired to match boat lines) I can resolve and I really only need an 18-inch extension to solve the boarding problem. They will be relatively low, like Pacifica's because I do not want the higher sides as on the Seawind extensions; we use the lower steps when boarding from floating docks. The high sides would flow nicely going up wind, but down wind they could catch waves, so while they look pretty, I believe they are less functional for us. Other benefits?

 

 After extension

• Better speed? I doubt it will be measurable, and calculations suggest it will only matter at lower speeds. perhaps 0.1-0.3 knots, depending on the speed.
• Load carrying. A little.
• Pitch reduction. Won't hurt, but too small to notice.
• Many days on-site fabricating. I live 1 hour away. Ugh.
• Difficulty match gelcoat and fairing. Fortunately the bottom paint and boot top will cover most of them.
• Increased resale value if done well. Of course, I may be dead by then.
• Length. My slip is not priced per foot (fixed by beam) and the practical docking length does not change (transom will not extend beyond tender on davits). 
• Appearance. I think I actually like the new lines a little better. certainly not ugly, if I spend some time playing with the curves and angles, matching her existing lines.
• Fun. A place to dangle feet.
• Practical. A place to wash pots.

As for building a mold, I'm considering simply applying several coats of PVA mold release to the last 30 inches of the hull and pulling a molds of the lower foot (all that I need). Yes, I would need to narrow the mold by taking a seam down the bottom. I would need to attach the form to plywood stations and glassed-in stringers, but I would get a nice smooth surface with the desired compound curvature; after all, I want to match the existing rate of curvature. This should save a LOT of fairing and any glaring transitions in hull form. Glassing in the platform and new transom is simple. There is no internal access so I'll have to include some sort of inspection ports; I'm sure they'll leak.

Alternatively, I may just build a metal mold, following the hull lines straight back. I've done this before; after getting the shape you like you fix it with transom and some stringers.

Your thoughts? Comments PLEASE. Forget structural concerns; I'm an engineer and will get past those. I think it will look OK and the function in terms of fun and practical access to the water, and limited mobility access to docks and the tender seem overwhelming.

_______________

Some practical considerations. I'll be collecting my notes here over the next few months.

No core in bottom half. The PDQ was laid up solid below the water line, and given the sidewalls are mostly below, I'm going to skip core materials. Just cloth and mat.

Epoxy resin. While polyester resin could certainly be used, I'm much more familiar with West Systems and there will be quite a bit of secondary bonding. It also smells better and I'll be working in the basement a lot. It is more water resistant and barrier coating will not be needed.

Pre-laminated FRP transoms. I have the scrap. Also tabbing and stringers, as needed.

Deck may be glassed 1/2-inch marine ply, unless I get a better idea. My FRP scrap is not wide enough.

Tenting. I do not have an angle grinder with an effective vacuum attachment, so I may use an old camping tent. With the door open, it should swallow the work area.

The mold will most likely be 2-part to ease removal. I'm going to have to seam it down the center anyway....

As an alternative to pulling a mold from the hull I may build a sheet metal, simply strapping it to the hull, as was done by Roy Chandler in "A 30-foot, $6,000 Catamaran." He modified a stiletto27 by adding 3 feet to the transom, following the lead of the factory, which extended the hull to 30 feet using the same lines for the Stiletto 30. However, this would make it a bit trickier to beef up the form and I would like to keep the slight compound curvature.

rev. 6-3-2013

I'm leaning more to metal mold. This would allow me to do both hulls at the same time, since the mold is simple. It would allow me to do the work in the field, which would solve fitting problems. The PDQ 32 has a nice extended hull flange that will make bonding on-site very strong and simple. The mold will consist of the aluminum with ~ 6 firring strip stringers screwed to the outside and a square false transom on the tail (the actual transom will be angled and prelaminated, and tabbed in later, after trimming the initial layup). A metal mold can be 1-part as it will flex on removal, allowing it to be pealed off even if there is some sticking.

I've been practicing with the PVA and like it far better than wax; easy release and washes right off... with sweat drips if not careful.

Video of Pacifica installation process. Different approach.

Video of flow before modifications.

Muddy Water

 Pautuxent River Park, Jug Bay Natural Area
 

While the skies were certainly blue enough on my Friday off, the water wasn't and the air carried the slight musk of a freshwater tidal marsh. That, of course, was no distraction to the ospreys, cormorants, rockfish or emergent flora. Just the right mix of silence, water lapping, and spring calls.

A pair of projects has me focused on paddling lately; an article on kayaks for the sailing cruiser and a new Chesapeake Bay guide to "The Other Chesapeake." One will be finished this fall, the other--about real backwaters and tiny beaches and everything I like that is not in the guides--I expect to be years in the writing. So what, the work is the payoff, or at least most of it.

I spent this morning at a kayak demo held by Eastern Mountain Sports on the upper Potomac River, paddling a dozen different boats and collecting my ideas, regarding handling, practicality and durability. Except for the cold feet, all fun stuff. I even tried a stand-up paddle board (it was suggested that they solved some of the on-board storage issues), if only to confirm that it's not for me.

Borax: Stopping Mildew and Rot on the Cheap... and How the EPA Can Make Everything Complicated

Websters' version

Borax: 1. a white crystalline compound that consists of a hydrated sodium borate Na2B4O7·10H2O, that occurs as a mineral or is prepared from other minerals, and that is used especially as a flux, cleansing agent, and water softener, as a preservative, and as a fireproofing agent.


EPA's Version

Borax: pesticide products containing boric acid and its sodium salts (borax) are registered in the U.S. for use as insecticides, fungicides and herbicides. As insecticides, some act as stomach poisons in ants, cockroaches, silverfish and termites, while others abrade the exoskeletons of insects. As herbicides, some cause desiccation or interrupt photosynthesis in plants, while others suppress algae in swimming pools and sewage systems. As fungicides, several are wood preservatives which control decay-producing fungi in lumber and timber products.

http://www.epa.gov/oppsrrd1/REDs/factsheets/0024fact.pdf

While generally considered safe, if I claim a cleaning formulation containing borax keeps mildew away, I have to register it with the EPA before marketing. But I can sell you a box of borax without registration. Go figure. Is it really about toxicity? I don't really think so. It is about twice as toxic as washing soda (LD50 borax and boric acid are about 2500 mg/kg BM. Although borax is suspected in certain reproductive problems in laboratory animal testing, it is not associated with cancer and does not bio-accumulate.).

It seems that anything that works must be poison, or at least regulated. That is governments purpose.

______________________

As part of a future Practical Sailor article I began exploring fumigating agents and anti-mildew products. I truth, most projects I take on are because I've had some troubles related to the subject in question and thus have some understanding and some additional motivation. Every boat has at least one damp spot prone to mildew, and in my case, I have a basement prone to wet carpets every few years. Not flooding, but mildew potencial.

I began exploring the formulations of some successful products. Concrobium is one, dredfully over priced at the local hardware, particularly considering you can look up the underlying pattents (EP 1104450 B1) and learn that each quart bottle ($18.00) contains nothing but:

• 1 tbs baking soda
• 2 tbs washing soda
• 2 tbs trisodium phosphate (TSP)

Simple and effective. The chemistry makes perfect sense; it is applied without rinsing and thus leaves behind a thin alkiline coating that repells bacterial and fungal growth (fungi require acid conditions) and provides no food for growth (soaps contain fatty acids and make great fungi food). More is not better because it is used without rinsing, the limitied concentration is important.

That got me thinking, so I began trying other variations including my favorite, also in 1 quart:

• 1 tbs baking sopa
• 1 tbs borax
• 1 tbs TSP

I've been testing all three on some mildewed carpet sections, cleaning by scrubbing lightly and then extracting with a vacuum. Which is best? After 6 months they are both perfect, although the borax version killed the smell a bit faster.

______________________

Other Applications

Preventing Wood Rot

Borax is VERY effective in preventing wood rot. I've used it myself mixed with ethylene glycol (Goolge it) to preserve a common pine totem pole in damp soil and remain impressed; it's staying as though it were pressure treated, 6 years and counting. West Systems Epoxy has posted on this subject. The National Park Service posted this on preserving totem poles in the PNW with borate/glycol.

Bugs

Obviously, they can't stand boric acid. One of the most common extermination products, particularly around kitchens and bedrooms (works on matresses). It's not going to work on the flying pests, though, the only ones I have trouble with. Darn.

Wooden Decks

Seems like a good cleaning choise. Should help keep the algae away. Limit the TSP if you wish to be bay-friendly. Try it on your home deck for a little boost to the pressure treatment.

Combine it with some bleach as needed.

Sails

A less alkiline variation is well known and should keep the mildew away. Reduce the dose:

• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp borax

 ________________________

Oh, the power of good marketing. I swear I'm not just trying to be trying to be cheap. Furthermore, I'm a chemical engineer and have no phobia regarding synthetic chemicals. I'm not pushing this because of some hidden green agenda or because it is less toxic. The strength of these formulations is basic:

• No organic mildew food
• Mildly alkiline film
• Borate as mildewstat

I'm also reviewing some nice complex synthetic formulations that promise to be more water resistant. We'll see.

Wilderness Systems Aspire 105 / Another Toy

My daughters Perception Impulse got me hooked on marsh exploration and paddling, but I discovered
2 problems:

• It's tough to go with her when we have only 1 kayak.
• My back and bum wanted a more adjustible seat. The Impluse is very good--better than some chairs in my house--but I'm very old and stiff.
• I wanted to explore the Potomac River near my home, but it features whitewater, and though I'm not interested in serious whitewater, like a good breeze to a sailor, a few waves look like fun. Unfortunately, the Impulse stinks in white water.
  

I've hunted high and low (a Practical Sailor article on kayaks for the sailor is probably in the works), rented or borrowed many kayaks, and picked up a Wilderness Systems Aspire 105 yesterday. A hibred kayak, it features some of the shape of a whitewater boat (increased fore/aft rocker and limited keel) to allow quicker turns and to reduce the tendency of the current to grab the ends and spin you around. The thigh braces are better, and the seat has more adjustments to help hold the paddler in place; still, the seat is too wide and the boat too stable for effective edging, and there area pair of groves in the bottom that tend to grab water when side-slipping.  On the rec side it has a larger cockpit and storage more typical of sea kayaks. To provide straight tracking on flat water, it has a retractable skeg near the transom, yet angled and far enough in to prevent damage. Though it cannot be Eskimo rolled, the increase volume forward makes it easy to reboard after capsize. I tested that theory after neglecting to edge correctly pealing out of an eddy; it seemed so stable, but that big chine can sure catch water. It was a simple matter to flip it back over quickly, scooping only a little water, flop up on the bow, and slide myself back, all the while in fast moving but relatively flat water. The big cockpit opening makes reentry easy.

Basically, an upgraded recreational kayak with a few features to make it more at home in moving water.

Just north of Widewater on the C & O Canal. I had to special order a different color; I just couldn't see bight orange in a wilderness setting.

How do I like her? My first forays into whitewater assured me that she is more capable than I am at this point. On flat water, it seemed faster and the seat is a big improvement. If I were buying a boat strictly for sailing, I still like the Impulse; it's simpler and lighter. But for longer days, further afield, and more variety, the Aspire seems a good choice. It may prove the optimum choice for running long stretches of flat and moving river and for the occasional rough day on the Chesapeake.

Update 5-5-2013. Jessica and I took the Aspire and Impulse out on the open Chesapeake just as a small craft advisory had lifted; still a bit bumpy, and the water is still only 13C. Lots of laughs and relaxing too. The lessons:

• The spray skirt, which is required for whitewater, would have been nice in the rough water. We took enough waves to require bailing about every 20 minutes (1/2 gallon). a little safer and warmer too.
• Entering a kayak from the transom when the waves are rolling 2-3 feet is daunting. Possible, but non-paddlers will hate it.
• Speed. Identical.
• Stability. About the same; the Aspire has greater initial stability, but the impulse has a very good feel for secondary stability.
• Comfort. The Aspire has a nicer seat and thigh padding.
• Maneuvering. The Aspire is very nice in the waves and wind with the skeg up, but the bow blows off with the skeg down. Once back on track, the skeg is nice and we like it on flat water. The Impulse, not surprisingly, is somewhere in between. No question, the Aspire is more maneuverable, but for general use both are fine.
• Weight. I need to weigh them. The Aspire is only reported to be 4 pounds heavier (44 vs 48), but it seems like more to us when pulling it on deck. On this factor alone, we give the Impulse top marks for good paddling and light weight; simplicity pays.

On the Potomac above Old Anglers Inn. I was surprised to be able to catch this while on moving water. Credit to image stabilization and a stable kayak. He was several hundred yards away.

Inflatable Rehabilitation

When I bought the boat I honestly did not expect the tender to survive more than a season or two. She was 10 years old and faded, and didn't hold air too well. It was just a matter of time. As it turns out, Hypalon is surprisingly durable stuff and 5 years later she's going strong... with some rehab.

This time it was a bit of pealed rub rail and a wear patch that was starting to go through. A bit of heavy wader patch material (2 layers this time) and some 3M 5200 and she's right as rain. The masking tape is simply the most practical clamping method, since the stuff cures slowly. Is there a faster cure cement? Sure, but I don't keep it handy since it cures in the tube, it seems, certainly if you open the tube. I have used 3M 5200 before for wear patches and
gluing bits down. I wouldn't use it for patching a hole, but it does well for mechanical purposes. The rope scrap is in there just to apply clamping pressure to the edge.

(How is the tender supported in the air with the lifting tackle removed? The tricing lines, of course.)

Other repairs over the years?

• Replaced lifting spreader (plastic replaced by aluminum).
• Replaced floor. Fortunately for me, a demo with defective tubes (but new floor) was pitched, that only needed trimmed for length.
• Repairs to flow followed by replacement of floor.
• Lubing valves. A few drops of glycerine in the valves restores them to like-new performance for 6 months. Ever since I learned that trick she has held air just fine for a month at a time.
• Paint. I figured even if the paint didn't look that good, it would serve as sun screen. I'm more about function that appearance.
• A rub rail on the stern.
• Cut off the bow handle. It snagged when lifting.
• Added rod holders. Handy for numerous long items.
• Added fuel filter to outboard. I really do want it to last, as you can't buy 2-strokes any more and the 4-strokes are huge. Started using Biobor EB (top performing corrosion inhibitor).

What's next? I'll touch-up over these patches and perhaps re-paint in 2 years. I have a replacement seat I found that I need to pop in (same free source as the replacement floor). 

Some day, a replacement will be in order. Will I go bigger, an RIB with enough motor to scoot? I don't think so. While that is without question the right answer in some locations and for some people, for the Chesapeake with her soft beaches, short runs, and flat harbors, I think I prefer light weight and super-shallow draft to something beefy. I might go 6 hp, up from 3.5 hp, but that's it. light is nice.