Under-bunk Storage on the PDQ 32

The PDQ 32 was made in 2 basic versions: the Classic (my boat) which is powered by twin 9.9 hp outboards, and the LRC (long range cruiser) which had twin inboard sail drives. The LRCs have storage in the cockpit where the Classics have motor wells. The Classics have huge engine compartments under the bunks which are difficult to access. They represent nearly as much storage volume as found throughout the rest of the boat, and it seems a shame for it to go unused. We don't miss it over-nighting, but when out for weeks at a time, we need more luggage space.

The way our boat came, the "hole" was covered by one large unfinished sheet of plywood. You worked your fingers under the wood, awkwardly levered the mess over to the side, and deposited the wood on top of the mattress to keep it from coming back on your head. The wood was loose and always trying to slide and bang into something. The gelcoat was scared from it sliding around. More over, if you only needed one small thing, there was a temptation to lift the wood with one had and strenuously prod around in the dark for the desired items. Agony. We only stored item we seldom needed, and dreaded getting them out.

Some owners split the mattress and split the board. Better, but we didn't want to split the mattress and we are thinking about changing to a Select Comfort mattress later. We thought about pulley or lever arraignments - none were simple, and in the end, they weren't needed.

First, we need to add the sliding drawer, perhaps a bit larger than a suitcase. This should easily manage clothes for a week, with outerwear and such stored in other places. There are a few small cabinets and 3 shallow closets. The drawer we built is a simple 5 mm (~3/16") plywood box constructed without fasteners - only epoxy fillets. I have built many of these; they are simple, light, strong, and cheap. You can add fiberglass, but that is only needed if it is exterior or is a water or fuel tank. The runners are plastic angle left over from a garden shed! The handles are comfortably worn dock line.

The other key items were a simple piano hinge, rope handle, and a prop (5/8" hardwood dowel).  With a piano hinge to secure one edge of the lid, it is EASILY folded without cutting the mattress or un-making the bed! I added a rope handle to make getting started easier. Even my daughter can manage. The prop simply rests on the carpeted wall without slipping (it will stay in place underway), and is fixed at the other end by a screw eye in the dowel and a pad eye on the lid. It hangs in a plastic wire clamp (cut open, visible in center of the lid) when not in use. Simplicity!

Because the drawer rides on plastic angle sliders, it moves with a finger's touch. The exterior dimensions are 26 1/8" wide, 19" fore-aft, and 12" deep.

For now added the hinge and prop to the port bunk, but have left off the drawer: my daughter uses it and there is enough storage space for one; we use the space underneath her side (port side)  for boogie boards, extra cushions for the salon, scooters, and other over size toys.

The hammock on the left hangs from brackets that hang off the nuts mounting the Genoa track. We generally use it for dirty laundry. We tried using the "hamper" under the seat, but the smell after even a days being sealed up in the summer was far to much for us.

There is more to life than sailing... or the Artist in the Family has a show.

Gale warning have been up for the past few days, as autumn arrives for real, which means... raking leaves. It also is time to look around the yard to see what is wanting for attention.

A year ago we had to take a few large trees out. One of them ended up as a totem pole, courtesy of my father's talents. Though we share some small bit of Native American blood, it is not from a tribe that practiced this tradition. Still, it seemed worthwhile, and he worked a few family images into the project.

First we experimented and produced a fine guard for my daughter's backyard fort. Fun.

Then my Dad got involved and crafted this 25-foot totem. More fun. It turns out, after much research that the National Parks Department learned that high-copper paint would be the proper environmentally acceptable preservative for the base. They had it specially formulated. I gather they had never heard of bottom paint.  

Ken Frye - Watercolorist

But there is a point to this rambling discussion. My Dad opened a gallery show in Vienna, Virginia today. He's been painting and selling water colors and prints, generally of ocean and architectural themes, since I was small. Cape May, New Jersey was a favorite location, became a summer home for us, and influenced in no small way my interest in sailing. If you have visited Cape May, are interested in maritime scenery, or simply appreciate art, give my Dad's blog a gander.

http://kenfrye-artist.blogspot.com/

http://www.ayrhillgallery.com/news-events.html

Tired of splicing? Substitue a 90% Strength Knot.

There are circumstances when a splice cannot be beat: chain to rope splice, spinnaker sheet to shackle or other snag-prone spot, or to the becket of a block where a knot would be too bulky. There are other times when a knot is a better choice: a dingy tackle that is easily tangled and frequently re-rove, a halyard that is prone to jamming in the head block, or a halyard that will be reversed or trimmed for wear. I like them on spinnaker halyards since they provide a big ball for me to hang on to (although I understand that on some rigs they can be snag prone at the mast head - it is all a mater of geometry). Many times a simple bowline will do the job; it is easily untied and compact. It is also a mere 45% strength knot and can come loose if tied loosely or with a too-short tail.


A common figure-8 is an 80% strength knot that is bulkier and more difficult to untie. It is, however, the gold-standard for mountaineers, and they stake their lives on its security and dependability. Even after a good hard fall it is not too difficult to untie, though saltwater and time do seem to make this more difficult.

The figure-8 can be improved upon; take the tail around the standing part again and feed it through the first turn. This increases the strength, makes it more secure against working loose, and makes it easier to untie. Three for one!

This has become my favorite mountaineering tie-in, and I have tested it through more than a few falls, as well as failure-testing it against both splices and standard figure-8s. It is less than line strength, but not by very much.

Circumnavigating the Delmarva Peninsula — A Guide for the Shoal Draft Sailor: November 2009 Revisions

     With the passage of one of the strongest northeasters in many years, the changeable inlets of the Eastern Shore have done just what they naturally do in response to stress; they have changed. After a few conversations with some fisherman and one sailor heading south for the winter, I have a few revisions to offer:

     Additionally, I have revised and expanded some Delaware Bay information between the Cohansey River and Bidwell Creek on the Jersey side.

Enjoy!

The Purpose of Work

An American businessman was at the pier of a small South Pacific island village when a small proa with just one fisherman docked. Inside the small proa was a dorado and several large grouper. The American complimented the Islander on the quality of his fish and asked how long it took to catch them.

The Islander replied, "Only a little while."

The American then asked why didn't he stay out longer and catch more fish?

The Islander said he had enough to support his family's immediate needs.

The American then asked, "But what do you do with the rest of your time?"

The fisherman said, "I sleep late, fish a little, play with my children, take a late afternoon nap with my wife, Helia, and then in the evening after dinner I stroll into the village each evening where I sip rum and play guitar with my friends. I have a full and busy life."

The American scoffed, "I am a Harvard MBA and could help you. You should spend more time fishing and with the proceeds, buy a bigger boat. With the proceeds from the bigger boat you could buy several boats; eventually you would have a fleet of fishing boats. Instead of selling your catch to a middleman you would sell directly to the processor, eventually opening your own cannery. You would control the production, processing, and distribution. Of course, you would need to leave this small fishing village and move to Australia, then Los Angeles and eventually New York City, from where you will better run your expanding enterprise."

The South Seas fisherman asked, "But, how long will this all take?" to which the American replied, "15–20 years."

"But what then?"

The American laughed and said that's the best part. "When the time is right you would announce an IPO and sell your company stock to the public and become very rich. You would make millions."

"Millions, really? Then what?"

The American said, "Then you retire. Move to a small fishing village where you sleep late, fish a little, play with your grandkids, take a late afternoon nap with your wife, and then in the evening after dinner, stroll into the village to sip rum and play your guitar with your friends."


Borrowed. I have no idea where this came from; I have seen many versions on the net and edited this one to suit my sense of story telling.

Anchor and Bow Details

Many complain that chain  beats up the deck. Place heavy duty non-skid from the roller to windlass.

I've seen all sorts of lashings holding anchors while underway. A simple pin through the chain works very well and is FAST to release. Mine is home-made from 3/16-inch aluminum, but I believe you can buy them. I would not call this a chain lock - it won't take the strain - but it works better with mixed chain/fiber rodes than available chain locks because it is out of the way when open and permits easy man-hauling when needed. With a fiber rode you snub the rode on a cleat, anyway.

In my case, I always use a bridle and the rode is not loaded. With a catamaran the rode would take serious abuse coming off the roller at a 40-60 degree angle. Even so, I use 2-inch tubular climbing webbing to protect the rope at the chock.

Corner Tramp Lacing Reinforcement on PDQ 32

I've noticed that many of these boats have a problem with the bolt rope being strained in the corner, bringing a premature death to the trampoline. There is not enough lacing support and this is a high-impact area, due to sailors stepping down off the cabin roof. A few extra laces are just the ticket: simply add 3 small stainless straps (1" x 1/8" x 2" 316 SS) with a 1/4-inch hole drilled in each end. Round the holes well to avoid chafe.

A Marine Winterizing, Antifreeze, and Engine Coolant Primer

(This was a draft original written as part of a series of magazine articles; the project never got beyond draft form, and so here it is.)

Protecting marine water systems from ice damage is the simplest of aims, but the terms and product claims are confusing. A little education goes a long way. Yup, you can blow the system out with air or drain it; that is not the topic I am speaking to today.

Toxicity

For the potable water systems on a boat there is only one reasonable alternative: propylene glycol (PG), the active ingredient in virtually all marine and RV antifreeze products. Identified by the FDA as “generally recognized as safe” it has very low toxicity to people and mammals and no identified long-term health effects at modest doses. It can be used in toothpaste and foods; over 1 pint/170 pounds is required to be fatal. Ethylene glycol (EG), commonly used in automotive engine coolant, is toxic to people and mammals when ingested; less than ½ cup per 170 pounds is expected to be fatal. Neither is carcinogenic or causes any adverse health effects at incidental exposure levels. Both glycols have a sweet taste. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are your best source of information, widely available on the internet.

Marine toxicity is a different matter; both ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are low in toxicity, and there is no established difference between them from the fish, crab, or marine grass point of view. Toxic effects require 4-20% of either glycol—levels which cannot be approached with small spills because of immediate dilution.  Biodegradability is also equal; both are as easily degraded as food wastes. Claims that propylene glycol is more biodegradable or friendly to the marine environment are offered without relevant basis or back-up; we have searched high and low—the research says they are the same. See http://www.riskworld.com/Abstract/1996/sraeurop/ab6ad040.htm and MSDS information.Thus, for engine and head antifreeze, there is no strong reason to prefer PG over EG.

Glycerin has been suggested as a natural glycol substitute: don’t do it. Glycerin is as toxic to humans and mammals as EG, and 1000 times more toxic to marine organisms than other glycols. It is a poor antifreeze agent and is more difficult to rinse off. It does not dry. 

Unavoidably, some glycol will find its way back into the water after launching. Try to minimize this loss; both are pollutants and both lower dissolved oxygen levels when they degrade.

Burst Point

A fuzzy term without ASTM or other industry accepted standard test. It is generally recognized as the temperature where the entire mixture has become solid, though expansion may begin before this. Strong and tough materials (steel pipe) resist the strain of expanding ice better than weak and brittle materials (cast iron and PVC), and yet manufacturers of RV antifreeze seem to be “optimistic” when compared to major glycol producers’ data.

The freeze point has an ASTM recognized definition and test method; it is the temperature where the first ice crystals form. Automobiles and any system that is to be operated in cold temperatures must be protected to the freeze point to insure reliable pumping with no ice crystal present. 

As for those materials that claim -100F or -200F burst point material, there is no science to support it; all EG and PG mixtures freeze solid before -65F is reached. This is lying, plain and simple; notice that DOW does not make such silly claims. Educated industrial buyers know better.

Another word of caution for those that would use the minimum amount; when antifreeze is subjected to freeze/thaw cycling, the ice crystals float, and the glycol rich solution sinks. There will be some separation, and the burst point at the top of a complex pipe system can be much greater that the predicted value. This is common in large, complex piping systems.

Freeze/Burst Protection (data from Dow Chemical)
	Ethylene Glycol		Propylene Glycol
	Freeze Protection (Vol.%)	Burst Protection (Vol.%)	Freeze Protection (Vol.%)	Burst Protection (Vol. %)
20	16.5	11.5	18.5	12.5
10	26.0	17.5	30.0	20.5
0	34.5	23.0	37.5	25.5
-10	40.5	27.5	44.0	29.0
-20	46.0	29.3	48.0	31.0
-30	50.0	31.0	52.0	34.5
-40	54.5	31.0	56.5	36.5
-50	58.5	31.0	59.5	36.5
-60	62.2 Min. FP =	31.0 -62F	62.5 Min FP =	36.5 -63F

The glycol content of a product is best measured with a refractometer calibrated for the glycol used. Most can test EG, PG, and battery acid—very handy—and are available for about $50 (http://www.apexbattery.com/glycol-refractometer--antifreeze-refractometer--coolant-refractometer-miscellaneous-refractometers.html). No mechanic should be without one. Glycol content is also listed on manufacturer supplied MSDS sheets, though it is conspicuously absent from packaging labels. Very curious indeed. Please note the price information below is VERY market dependent. Winter 2008 was high, Winter 2009 is much lower and I have not up-dated the table.

                                                Vol. %                   

                                                Proplyene    Freeze    Burst  Price (2008)

Product                                  Glycol           Point, F   Point, F    $/lb PG

***Camco Ban Frost 2000     97                  -60           -60         $1.85

Camco Freeze Ban -100          64                  -63           -63         $1.89

Camco Freeze Ban -50            32                    5            -25         $3.84

*Star-brite -200 RV / Marine  97                   -60          -45         drums only                  

Star-brite -100 RV / Marine    60                   -60          -60         $2.45

Star-brite -60 RV / Marine      32                    5            -25         $2.49

Star-brite -50 RV / Marine      25                   10            0            $2.37

Sea-farer -50 Marine               25                   10            0            $1.90

* Concentrate. Use at 30-60% to get freeze point of -10F to -60F.

* * Product names do not always match always burst point claims, as determined from MSDS glycol concentrations and test data.

***For engine use only. Not for potable water systems. Like EG engine coolants it contains corrosion inhibitors with some toxicity.

Engine Coolant

            Most RV (propylene glycol) antifreeze products are not designed for use in operating engines, and they are not optimized for corrosion protection. They contain only small amounts of corrosion inhibitors, and not the additives required in engine coolants; those additives are too toxic for potable water systems. There is no such thing as a “marine” engine coolant, in the sense that it is formulated specifically for or is better for marine applications; automobile and truck manufacturers have research this subject since the beginning of engines, and you should chose according to the engine type you have:

Gasoline or light-duty (not wet sleeve liners) diesel engine

PG or EG engine coolant                    *  Long-life type, 5 yr., typically yellow or red.

                                                              *  Conventional type, typically green.

Heavy-duty (wet sleeve liners) diesel engine

PG or EG engine coolant                    *  Long-life type, 5 yr., typically yellow or red.

                                                            *  Conventional type, typically green or pink.
                                                      Both must be rated for truck use, containing pre-charge of SCA (nitrite)

    There is no reason to change closed cooling systems annually – they will last the recommended interval just fine. There is no reason to buy these from a marine supply house; you can find better deals through automotive and truck parts stores.

Disposal

            Recycling is always best, and because of the high value of glycols, used antifreeze has a value to recyclers. Both propylene and ethylene glycol are recyclable, and they can be commingled in collection tanks at your marina, county collection center, or service station. The best recyclers distil the spent antifreeze under vacuum and produce glycols and coolant products meeting all virgin engine coolant specifications; much of the recycled product finds its way back into the cars you drive as factory fill!

Bottom Line

• Buy antifreeze by the pound of glycol. In 2008, Camco -100 for water systems and Camco Ban Frost 2000 for engines are the best deals; several others are very close, but Camco -100 has the safety factor to handle water left behind.
• If your engine has a glycol cooling system, buy at the auto or truck parts store, either EG or PG. Long-life formulas are cheaper over time, though they should not generally be mixed with or used to replace conventional green antifreeze; there can be compatibility problems. The new “global” or universal” products have solved most of these issue. However, remember diesels should get diesel engine coolants; that peculiar diesel rattle produces vibrations and cavitation corrosion that automotive coolants cannot protect against.
• Be wary of skimping; freeze/thaw cycling separates glycol/water mixtures and can cause bursting of complex systems. Be cautious with weaker products if there is any water remaining in the system. PG concentrations in the system of less than 34% are questionable at low very temperatures—the burst point curve is very steep in that range.

Removing and Replacing the Engines in a PDQ 32

 I wanted to choose a humorous title, but there just wasn't enough humor in the topic to pull it off. Or as I am fond of saying in unpleasant straights, "all's well that ends."

I recall the first engine troubles I had on my PDQ; just shortly after our delivery trip home the starboard engine would refuse to start. It would run just fine on ether, so it was clear it was getting no fuel. It wasn’t the fuel pump — enough was coming out the hose. I replaced the pump with a spare anyway, just to be certain and because it was easy to get to. Soon enough, after a few conversations with others, it became clear it was the carburetor, and the carburetor is just plain tough to get to on the starboard engine. I was sure I needed to pull the engine to see what was going on. Thankfully, a wise old PDQ sailor came to the rescue with a manual and with the help of the manual I found it was actually quite simple to pull the barb off, after which cleaning and re-building it on the bench is a snap. I grew up on old cars in the 70s and so it all looked familiar.

Every so often I read of a sailor that is going to pull and engine to work on something minor, like like a carb cleaning. Please don’t. Please let me explain.

During our last Delmarva trip I noticed that the starboard engine was beginning to drink oil. Where previously a few ounces would last a year, now a pint would last only a few hours, and eventually, perhaps only 20 minutes. While I was considering my options, it seized. Later investigation revealed that it did not seize in the sense that metal welded to metal; I think the combustion chamber somehow filled with oil, preventing the piston from going up (I found the intake manifold and carb full of oil during tear down. After draining, it turned easily). At the same time, the port engine stopped cooling. Oh, a very small portion of water was getting by, enough to just prevent overheating in cooler weather, but not enough to be safe. Because the pump had perhaps never been serviced, the lower casing refused to separate easily, or even with some heavier persuasion. 

Both engines had failed at the same time.

As luck would have it, Page83 had a pair of Yamaha 9.9 engines that he had swapped out in favor of 8 hp engines with power tilt. The Yamaha tilt system on the PDQs is always a sore spot with the owners, and must finally have exceeded his tolerance. Or perhaps his wallet was just heavy enough to tip the balance in favor of ease. Either way, I became the owner of a “new” pair of moderate hour Yamaha 9.9s. Of course, they were now beside my house instead of Page83’s house; they were not in the boat. 

Enough rambling over how the situation evolved. Down to details. 

Pulling the Old Engines 

I considered dropping them out on dry land. I gave that up for a number of reasons: I had just painted the bottom with 2-year paint in August and had no other reason to haul; it seemed to me that the hole in the bottom was not quite large enough to drop the engine through—close,but not quite; several owners have described hoisting them up. In fact, it was a reasonable 1-person job. Putting them back in with 2 people was better, but could have been managed by one with a little more time.

Would I haul the boat and do it on dry land, given the choice?  No, I don't think so. It wouldn't be easier; it would be different. I think it was easier sliding them onto the dock than it would have been lowering them. It would have been nice to get under neither once or twice. Either way.

* Duct tape over the drain hole in front of the mounts. Bolts and tools are strongly attracted. 

* Bring lots of old quilts for padding the boat! There it no slamming involved, but there is much scraping potential. 

* Knee pads are a must. There is a lot of time spent leaning into the well to reach things. 

* Disconnect the starter, charging, and control wires. A prudent person would take the positive cables off the batteries. A cautious person will merely be very careful not to touch black to red while disconnecting. It may only be 12 volts, but the amps are nearly unlimited.
* Disconnect the gasoline line. I my case I had to remove a Raycor fuel filter just forward of the engines.

* Disconnect the shift and throttle cables. The linkage ends are simple slide-clips. A single bolt (10 mm wrench) underneath the clamp where they enter the engine, where you can’t see it, is all that secures them to the engine. There is a rubber grommet - I slit it from underneath with a knife and removed it that way. There is a grove at the end of the cable that fits in a pair of slots next to the 10 mm bolt. If there is not enough slack to pull the cables out, don’t force them - they will come out easily enough when the motor is lifted a few inches. The only real reason to get them out now is to provide better access to the transom clamps.
* Disconnect the tilt lock lever extension. 4mm allen wrench.
* Loosen the transom clamps. In my case this step took about 3 hours of painful work for the first engine, including lubricating the bolts several weeks beforehand. There is little space to work and no wrench fits those stupid little plastic handles. It required the use of vise grips and 2 different small pipe wrenches, each one specializing in one a small arc of a full revolution. I have been told that a self adjusting socket (Sears Gator Grip http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947078000P?vName=Tools&keyword=socket+pin or Gemplers Self-Adjusting sockets http://www.gemplers.com/product/134214/5-pc-Universal-Self-adjusting-Master-Socket-Kit) will do the job; the plastic handles will need to be removed first.  PB Blaster (penetrating oil available at most parts stores) is also a HUGE help. I discovered it just in time for the second engine. Just as tight as the first - 20 minutes work, and I could turn the clamps with my fingers when I was done!

* Remove engine cowling and install a light chain lifting bridle to the flywheel. Three short 8M bolts are required.
* Position two 2x6 planks across the hard top with one end above the skylight and one hanging over the back. Lash them together, but not too tightly; you want to be able to reposition the tackle by sliding it (unloaded, of course). This will create a fore-aft adjustable mounting for your tackle. No, they do not need to be this large for strength, but it does help spread the load. (see photo below)
* Attach a 3:1 tackle between the engine and the planks, connected to the genoa winch. I used the port winch for both engines, since it is less crowded than the starboard side. You must winch through the genoa turning block to insure a good lead angle to the winch. The tackle is not needed for power; it helps slow the lifting, reduces the stress on the hardtop (140 pounds vs 220 pounds) and reduces the side pull on the planks.
* Crank away. Be aware that the winch, with a 3:1 tackle, has enough power to break the hardtop in half. Don’t force it! Be warned that the transom bolts may be driven into the mounting; rock it loose by hand and without the winch first. Any time you feel any resistance through the winch, look to see what has caught. You will start and stop many times and go up and down a few times if working alone.
* There are some clearance issues. You will need to rock the lower end to the outboard side as it comes up through the hole. Be very careful with the carb and the ignition wiring panels. A second person underneath would be helpful, but it is not too bad from above.
* Disconnect the engine tilt line as it comes into reach. 
* Once clear of the well, set the skeg on the seat behind the well, disconnect the
tackle,and lift/slide/ boost the engine up onto the aft cabin roof.

Engine Mount Repair
It seems PDQ could have put a few more layers of glass into this area. On both of my mounts the transom clamps had punched in about ¼-inch. This results in water getting into the core, necessitating repair. Additionally, it allows the motor to rise a bit during hard reverse, increasing the chance of sucking a lifting line into the prop. The previous owner had made some ineffective repairs with Marine-Tex or something similar. The aft surface of the mounts were fine—the force is distributed over a much larger area.

A permanent repair is a simple matter of epoxying a section of ¼” pre-laminated FRP to the damaged surface using thickened epoxy. Grind everything down smooth, fill the holes, slather on a nice thick layer, and clamp it down to cure. Easy and much better than new, I think. Do confirm the maximum clamping range of your engines; This repair took me to within 1/8-inch of the maximum. If I ever need to do something with the aft surface of the mount in the future, I will need to grind off some glass and go in with something stronger instead of something thicker.



Getting Engines on and off the Boat at Dock

A piece of cake, as it turns out. A single section of an extension ladder with a piece of plywood fitted between the rails makes a nice gangplank with rails such that the engine cannot slide off into the briny.
* Secure the plywood to the rungs (a few holes with cable ties).
* Lash the ladder to the rear railing openings. It works best if you extend the ladder on-board until it touches the aft cabin roof; pad all of the contact points well. With enough padding, it is simple to spin the engine so that it goes prop first to the ladder, and then slides down the ramp. Pull it with a rope around the prop, as needed. Be careful, but the ladder rails should do a good job of keeping it centered.

Because getting the engines on-board was up-hill, we used a winch with a turning block extended from the aft hard top support. Take the cowling off the engine and use the chain lifting bridle to bring the engine up head first (to prevent the oil from going places it shouldn’t). Easy. Again, always lots of padding.


Installing the Engine

Much like pulling the engine, only more delicate… but you can see where the connections are better this time! I will discuss only those steps that are different.

* Remember to reconnect the engine lifting line! I forgot on the port engine until it was too far in to turn back. I ended up going for a swim to get it reattached. In the Chesapeake Bay in November this is not a lot of fun, but with a wet suit it wasn't really bad - just those first few moments as the water filled the suit. I have also done this from a tender before—swimming with a wet suit in 55 degree water was better than that torture. Fortunately, the water in my slip is only ~ 4 ½ feet deep, so it is more wading that swimming. 

* You may need to insert the shift linkages while still a 2-6 inches above the 
mounts. It was different on each side. However, do not attempt to attach the 
cables until the motors are clamped in place.
* Lube the cables, while you’re at it.
* The cables may require adjustment for proper operation. There are threads on the end for this purpose. Take a good look at them while the engine is out, so that you understand the operation.
* Use lots of anti-seize on the transom clamp bolts! 
* Clean all of the cable connections completely with emery cloth; not just the ring you removed, but the entire stack. Coat with heavy terminal grease (any auto parts store), or better, No-Alox by Ideal (Home Depot or any electrical supply house). It is a corrosion preventative for cable connections (synthetic grease with zinc dust), specifically for aluminum wiring, but applicable to tin and copper as well. Waterproof grease is not as good in this application.  I tested these products in a heated salt environment chamber, alongside both grease and aerosol products for a year, and they were the winners. High resistance connections are the leading cause of cars and boats failing to start, right behind dead batteries and empty tanks!

Go sailing! You have earned it.

"Circumnavigation the Delmarva Pensinsula" book summary

Edition: Second edition.
Binding: Ringbound, 110 pages, 8 1/2 x 11.
Publisher: Drew Frye, Vienna, VA
Date Published: 2009

 Description: The Delmarva circumnavigation demystified. Join us on the quintessential mid-Atlantic cruise - micro-cruiser, multihull, mid-size cruiser - whatever you have. We sailed a spartan 1200-pound Stiletto catamaran the first time around, and a comfortable 7,500-pound cruising catamaran more recently. In this book I have done my best to share a tale of a father and his 10-year-old daughter's first trip around the Delmarva, exploring the Chesapeake Bay and the most beautiful wilderness on the East Coast, the Virginia Coast Preserve. Throughout the narrative are woven details and advice gained over multiple visits to each of the areas described. The balance of the guide information is compiled in extensive appendices; everything needed to make a relaxed and safe passage. In the first edition first the emphasis was on story telling and small boat cruising, demonstrating all that is possible in a micro-cruiser. For the second edition, I have added a few tales from Delmarva trips in a medium size cruiser and additional guide information reflecting the needs of larger boats.

The writing of this book has been a 5-year labor of love, summarizing all we have learned in five circumnavigations, and all we have learned of this trip from locals and other sailors. I remain baffled by how few taste the inner passage or many small harbors along the way.

• The distilled experience of multiple Delmarva cruises and countless Chesapeake Bay cruises in small and medium cruising boats.
  

• Information to help an experienced day sailor make the step to coastal cruiser.
  

• Our favorite towns, resorts, and stopovers... and our less favorite.
  

• A detailed cruising guide to the Delmarva Coast, tailored to the needs of a shoal draft boat (4-foot or less). Hand drawn charts combine on-site observations and satellite imagery to provide critical information about less charted inlets.
  

All of the required navigation information is available on-line for free, and we have cataloged the specific URLs needed to access this world of Coast Guard and NOAA material. By downloading required charts, tide information, and Coast Pilot® chapters just prior to departure and inserting these in this convenient binder, you are assured of having the most current and complete information at your fingertips. The Delmarva coast is a very changeable area, and we have found charts even a few months old are generally out-of-date. This guide is printed on demand and is revised monthly.

We went the places big boats fear and brought back the details of a world known only to watermen. I hope I have brought real life this tale; I know how deeply I enjoyed the time spent with my daughter.

Drew Frye




Circumnavigating Delmarva Peninsula—A Guide for the Shoal Draft
Sailor

Table of Contents

Acknowledgments
Map: Course of 2006 and 2007 trips
Preface
Preface to Second Edition
Trip Summary: Anchorages, Stops and Inlets Transited
___________________
Departure
Lesson 1: Preparations
Day 1: Deale to Solomons Island
Lesson 2: Single-handed and Shorthanded Sailing
Day 2: Solomons Island to Cape Charles
Lesson 3: Kids
The Cape Charles Impact Crater
Plate: Smith Island, Southern Point
Day 3: Cape Charles to Wachapreague
Plate: Cobb Island, Southern End
Plate: Hog Island Inlet
Plate: Hog Island Inlet and Broad Water Area
Plate: Wachapreague Inlet
An Alternative Passage: Cape Charles to Wachapreague
by the Virginia Inside Passage
A Brief History of Cobb Island
Day 4: Wachapreague to Chincoteague
Lesson 4: Settling Down for the Night
Day 5: Chincoteague, a Non-Sailing Day
Lesson 5: Safety
Day six: Chincoteague to Ocean City
Lesson 6: Tips for the Trailer Sailor
Day 7: Ocean City to Cape May
Days 8-11: Interregnum - Cape May with Family
Day 12: The Approaching Storm
Day 13: Cape May to Chesapeake City
Day 14: Chesapeake City to Deale
Three Weeks Later…
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Appendix I: Cruising Guide
a) Delaware Bay and Atlantic Coast from Cape Henlopen to Cape Charles
b) Camping Opportunities on the Delmarva Barrier Islands and Chesapeake Bay
c) Chesapeake Bay—Details and Corrections of Interest to the Shoal Draft Sailor

Appendix II: Access: The Delmarva Barrier Islands and Chesapeake Islands
Appendix III: Recommended Reading
Corrections to 2009 edition
Suggested Inserts