You know how ISAF and ISO rules require locking carabiners because non-locking carabiners can twist off?
This was done with one hand, while the other held the camera. No special test gear.
It seems that the original Gibb patented hook has been modified over the years. No only is it weaker, it does not really lock.
Did this contribute to the Clipper accident? In fact, I think it may be the main mecanism. The carabiner was clipped to a jackline that ran beside a cleat. When forced to the side, the gate opened and the carabiner hooked the webbing. The resultsant nose-hooked condition is very weak and it soon failed.
So the carabiner has not one, but FOUR fatal weaknesses:
- Gate can be forced open at 10-15% of EN climbing carabiner standard (20-30 pounds vs 225 pounds)
- Nose hook strength is 15-30% of typical.
- Side load strength is 10-20% of typical.
- Nose is prone to hooking. Should be key lock.