Use it up, wear it out...

Rev. 8-14-2024

... make it do, or do without.

I love projects put together from the left-overs pile.

This boat hook and fishing rod holder was cobbled together for nothing from some scraps of line and a
heavy aluminum channel that used to reinforce the inside of a fuel oil tanker. A few minutes with a port-a-band, grinder, and drill press made for a holder that should outlive the boat. Most of the time I simply through the hooks on the tramp, and they've stayed there in near-gale conditions though bouncing quite a lot, but sometimes it still seems worthwhile to tame them a bit, or simply to give them a proper place.

Like wise this chain lock came from scrap channel.


My pilot berth came from a leftover shelf.

My kayak tie-off points were purchased bolt hangers, sure enough, but at only $2.75 each and the bolts were salvaged from shaft zincs found lying in the yard, since I don't have shaft zincs on outboards.

This immensely strong genoa sheet came with the boat. Must have, since Kevlar core went out of fashion some years ago... for good reasons. Kevlar will fail from fatigue far below its rated strength if bent to sharply or flexed to often. I have used Kevlar core halyards for many years without trouble; they are sized for stretch not strength, they pass over long radius wire rope blocks, and there is little motion. However, when used as a genoa sheet at high load, secured to the clew with a cow hitch, and occasionally allowed to flog while furling, the fibers crack. In a 15 knot breeze the core let go, leaving only the badly sunburned sheath to carry the load. How it came to fail internally without snapping completely is something of a misery to me; just the right combination of winds and flogging such that it gave up from fatigue when the load was not actually great. I cut the line at the failure and sailed home with bowlines; after all, it's not worn out yet.

Note the thin spot to the left--the core is failed and bunched up to the right. The failure was right at the tack, where the rope exited the knot. This is NOT the highest stress location in the knot, that is always the first turn. It was the harsh flexing while flogging that did it.

This sheet--and a second genoa sheet for my new inside track--came from discarded halyards in the marina recycle bin.

This tablet holder was cobbled together in an hour from the might-need pile. very light and a better fit than anything I could find on the web; custom for my tablet.

• 2-ball joint mount from my first car phone (before pocket cell phones, before I got married) about 25 years ago. When I sold the car I kept it, thinking it might make a good GPS mount. A good solid annodized aluminum model.
• 4mm water proof glued plywood scrap.
• Scrap aluminum angle. Just the right depth.
• White spray paint left over from the kitchen remodel (repainted all the hinges).
• Assorted saved screws and machine screws.

My electronics are comically out of date but the they work and I'd be satisfied with map and compass. That's how I learned.

At first glance, without my glasses, this WW II poster bothered me.

I've certainly restitched the dodger and sail cover a few times each.

I've never bought line for a bridle or snubber; there is always some retired anchor rode. Same for dock lines; I either splice some up or... I've found there are folks that will throw away barely used lines if one of the matching set gets rubbed.

My dingy under-the seat-box is a milk crate. Takes the strain off the tubes, holds a few things, never rusts, and was found on a beach.


Towels and the like come from home cast offs. If I use one to mop out the bilge, no one cares.

And then there are a thoughts that fall under the general heading "Cheap Boat Keeping."

Most of use would rather put money in our 401-K or the kids' college fund than pour it in the water. I spread my maintenance funds thin as paint, using every trick I've learned over the years. It helps that my dad is a painter (watercolor artist, but also a house painter in college), my grandfather was a mechanic, and I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked around chemical plants for years. Perhaps some of these ideas will be of use to others.

1. Use your engine. Never let it sit for over a month in the winter; the lube needs to circulate and the electrics need to dry. Run it enough in the summer to turn the fuel over a few times each season; we change the oil twice each year, so why would we expect the gasoline to last longer? Engines don't wear-out so much as deteriorate from disuse. I've done lots of fuel testing in my "real" job, so I'm neither quoting from a book nor guessing.
2. Cleanout every locker twice each year. You'll find stuff and reduce repeat buying. You'll gain space and stow things smarter. You'll save weight and clutter by pitching old rubbish or at least taking it home. It will remind you to maintain a few things. Remember, carrying junk costs $20/pound.
3. Save bits and pieces of materials. Some aluminum or FRP plate, a bit of stainless tubing, some left over wire, scraps of good wood, a bit of gasket material, and leftover old fasteners; never old junk parts, but bits that might be found in a hardware store or West Marine. Keep it neat.
4. Learn sail repair (hand work). A stitch in time saves nine. Really.
5. Find a good thrift store, one that carries some marine stuff but doesn't realize it. Small towns near the water. Also a great source for Gore-Tex foul weather gear; mostly the sorters don't know the difference between a worthless windbreaker and the real deal.
6. Stay at a working marina. Often 1/3 the price of a recreational marina.  Also look for houses with a few unused slips out back, or maybe a rusted up marine railway.
7. Use a good 2-year bottom paint.
8. Learn painting and composite repair. Really, you can be very efficient with these things, given the proper tools and some practice. I figure I save a good $100/hour pre-tax; I've learned speed and quality over the years.
9. Get a book book on marine wiring. Buy a good ratchet crimper. I'm an engineer by trade, which is a good start. However, even if you only apply your knowledge to troubleshooting, it's a blessing when somewhere remote. Do professional quality work the first time or you'll lose reliability, endanger your boat when you're away, and mostly do it over some day.
10. Anchor out. Even if it means adding solar and upgrading a few things, you can save $50-$150 per night. Enjoying increased freedom is priceless.
11. Waterproof grease. Electrical connections and anything that comes apart. Teflon pipe dope is good too, particularly where aluminum meets stainless.
12. Watch chafe and wear. Lines--running and mooring--can last for many years if you don't let them rub or slap.
13. Stay in the water all winter. Of course, this depends on the area--not practical in the Great Lakes--but for most of us it's a great saver. The season can be stretched, and the boat suffers less disuse, the hauling and storage fees go away.  You will need a good 2-year paint.
14. Learn small engine repair. They're really simple. Even if all you learn to do is change plugs, rebuild a carburetor, and change the impeller, there's real savings and less chance of being stranded. You'll need some tools and parts, of course.
15. Fish! It's free and nothing is better.

In 25 years of boat ownership, I've only used contractor services for:

• Major sail work and new canvas.
• Hauling. But I do the painting and hull work!
  

As a result, I know my boat inside out; that's a good feeling and an important part of seamanship.

Dynamic Tethers

 rev. 4-19-2014, rev 8-8-2024

Stitched Splice Warning. Based on limited testing we have found that nylon rope is much different to sew than polyester rope. Because of the extreme elongation prior to break, the stitching at the tail must carry nearly all of the load, while the stitching near the throat carries no load. It is rather like tug-of-war with a bungee cord; only the 2 men nearest the center can do any work.

Because of this difficulty, I strongly suggest all dynamic tethers be knotted rather than sewn. Climbing ropes have very high knot strength and are drop-tested with a figure-8 to attach the mass. A double overhand noose has also been drop tested. 

[Since this article I switched to a webbing retracting Proline tether by Wichard. I don't like the clips quite as well as the  Kong Tangos, but once you get used to them they are very good. The webbing has a bit more stretch than the prior polyester webbing and can pass the ISO drop test, but with a terrible jolt. After 5 years, the elastic is about shot, so the long tether droops dangerously. It has a quick release on the harness end, but I have mixed feeling about something that can release when I don't want it to. This winter I will either buy a new tether or build a new dynamic tether with Kong Tangos on for all three clips (On my F-24 we detatch the rope end as well, rather than leaving the tethers on the jacklines.]

This subject is a little too esoteric--for most sailors--and so magazines aren't much interested.   Fatalities due
to tethers breaking are rare. On the other hand, bruised ribs and back injuries are more common, but wrongly accepted as a part of rough weather sailing. However, if  we simply apply what we know from climbing about falling--lots or real world experience and lots of lab testing--it just doesn't need to be that way. Let's see if I can sweep away a few bits of conventional wisdom that are just plain wrong. Though you may never sail the Sydney/Hobart, capsize your boat and test the limits of  the human body, routine bumps against tethers don't need to hurt either. We can make our sailing experience more comfortable and safer at the same time. My tethers don't hurt.

____________

Dynamic tethers spliced from 8mm ice climbing rope. Knots would serve just as well. 10mm climbing rope works, but it is heavier and a little rolly if you step on it.

I started my investigation into soft tethers and impact forces years ago, but honestly, my boat is not the ideal
test bed; catamarans don't heel, I don't sail in big waves, and I'm not as willing to risk physical trauma as I used to be. I hold on and I don't fall. However, I've let myself slam into tethers intentionally a few times, just for testing, and I'm not happy with the current state of design. My back is too old.

Let's step back for a moment, before we charge forward, and state the limits of our investigation. We're not discussing jackline and energy absorption. I've covered that before and common experience indicates that a jackline will absorb enough energy to safely slow the sailor. I am discussing only the case of a sailor clipped to a rigid point.

While the Screamer/webbing combination is a huge safety improvement over the typical non-elastic tether, it is really engineered for a different purpose; to catch severe impacts in a survivable way for climbers and workers wearing hip or full body harnesses. Sailors, on the other hand, have a chest harness, which is lousy at distributing force. The screamer is just too hard.


A little backyard testing

I do NOT suggest this as you can easily hurt your spine. I've climbed enough to know what I was getting into.

• Anchor one end of the tether to an immovable object, in this case a large tree wrapped with non-stretch line.
• Create several tethers, 6 feet long from test materials: 1-inch nylon webbing,  1-inch webbing with Yates screamer, 10.4 mm dynamic rope (UIAA single), 8.2 mm dynamic rope (UIAA double).
• With increasing amounts of slack in the line, run at the end of the tether as hard as you can back first.

Results:

1-nylon webbing with Screamer. A very tough stop. With about 3 feet of slack I was able to just get the Screamer to trigger and it hurt. My back will complain for a few days.
10.4 mm rope. Firm stop. I didn't go further than 4 feet, not wanting injury. I'm sure I could have run from 6 feet with no harm, though it would be a jolt.
8.2 mm rope. Even at 6 feet and with a sore back, the stop was practically fun. It might take you off your feet, but was no harder than hitting a well padded couch. At 2-3 feet it was only amusing, with about 1-foot of stretch.
1/4-inch Amsteel. I was smart enough not to try. It would be worse than webbing without a Screamer.

General Observation. I wear my harness high, nearly in the armpits and definitely on my lats. If the harness had been worn lower, where catalogs show them or where combo PFDs fit, I would have injured my ribs.  Whiplash is also a problem. Wearing a harness down near the solar plexus and lower ribs, where so many are located, is plainly dangerous.

In the end, only the 8.2 mm rope felt good, thought the 10.4 mm was livable.


Data and Calculation

Is it strong enough? 8.2 mm line is not 5000-pound rated, but as we will see, it is far tougher (can absorb more energy) than 1-inch webbing.

What do we know from laboratory and real-world fall data? For new products....

• Webbing tethers are just adequate: They occasionally fail at forces near 4000 pounds. Rare, but we can use that as a design point. 
• 1-inch webbing can just manage a 6-foot fall with a 185-pound rigid mass; this is generally considered as equivalent to a 200-pound person, since the harness and body absorb some energy by deforming (data from DMM, a climbing equipment manufacturer).
• 10.4 mm UIAA single rope can manage more than 10 falls from nearly twice this distance.
• 8.2 mm UIAA double rope can manage more than 10 falls from nearly twice this distance with a 242 pound rigid mass (261-pound person) using 2 strands.
• 8.2 mm UIAA double rope can manage more than 10 falls from 6 feet with a 242 pound rigid mass (261-pound person) using 1 strand. Thus, it is more than 50% tougher than 1-inch webbing.
• 8.2 mm UIAA double rope can manage one fall from nearly twice this distance feet with a 242 pound rigid mass (261-pound person) using 1 strand. Again, it is more than 50% tougher than 1-inch webbing.
• 1/4-inch Amsteel is the worst material that could be used. While strong, its energy absorption capability is negligible. Its only advantage over chain or cable is light weight.

I created data using well-used products. Why used? Because they will become so, obviously. Less documentable and less repeatable by others--science is all about reproducible results, be they real-world or not--but ultimately more practical.
 

 Percent Elongation (left) vs. Pounds Stress, pounds (bottom)

Webbing is 3-5 times stiffer than dynamic rope. Amsteel is very stiff.

I took the samples and pull tested them up to 2500 pounds; I didn't feel like destroying my tether just yet. I used on-line data  to extrapolate out to the breaking point of each material. In dynamic situation, the breaking strength and the elongation to break is typically 30% less and energy absorption about 3 times less, but for blog post purposes, the above data at least allows comparison on an equal basis.

What matters is the area under the curve.

Static Energy Absorption, 6-foot tether, ft-pounds (left) vs. Stress, pounds (bottom) 

Static calculated energy values are greater than fall values for 3 reasons:

• Ropes are tested with figure-8 knot, weakening rope by ~ 40%.
• Dynamic testing does not allow for heat dissipation and reorientation of fibers.
• Dynamic ropes survive 8-12 falls, the webbing only 1 fall in our test data. Dyneema survived zero test falls.

Dynamic Energy Absorption, 6-tether, ft-pounds (left) vs. Stress, pounds (bottom) 

 At lower stress, 8.2 mm rope absorbs more energy for a given impact force, but eventually 10.4 mm rope has greater capacity. Both dynamic ropes have greater energy storage capacity than webbing. 8.2 mm rope is more than twice as tough as 1-inch webbing.

Both this data and UIAA drop data thus confirm the following:

• 11mm rope can absorb many fall factor 2 drops.
• 8.2 mm rope can absorb 1 fall factor 2 drop.
• 1" webbing can absorb 1 fall factor 1 drop.

What happens in a 6-foot test fall?

• 1-inch webbing: At 4000 pounds impact, 1100 ft-pounds energy. We know from fall testing, however, that 1-inch webbing can only absorb about 1100 ft-pounds (sometimes passes, sometimes fails), so we will use 1100 ft-pounds as the design point.
• 10.4 mm rope:  If we accept the design point only 1100 ft-pounds of energy, impact force is about 1400 pounds. New rope fall data indicated significantly less.
• 8.2 mm rope: If we accept the design point only 1100 ft-pounds of energy, impact force is about 1100 pounds. New rope fall data indicated significantly less.
• 1/4-inch Amsteel: Only 236 ft-pounds of energy were absorbed by the point 5000 pounds of stress were reached, and only 677 ft-pounds of energy were absorbed at the break strength of 8600 pounds. Amsteel will kill the sailor and pull the harness apart before surviving a 6-foot fall. This has been duplicated in real-world fall testing with spectra products; Dyneema is worse.

If we limit the fall to something more reasonable--a 2-foot fall is similar to wave strike and 6 knot stumble, and more severe than my backyard testing--the energy for me is only165# x 2' = 330 ft-pounds, which can be absorbed by a 500-pound impact; you'll feel it but not get bruises. With a webbing lanyard it would be 3 times that pressure and you will be injured. A Screamer will trigger but not be fully spent (though they are single-use).

How much energy can a Screamer absorb? About 270 foot-pounds according to several testing sources, or about 25% of a 6-foot fall; in combination with the stretch of the webbing, enough to reduce the impact force below 2000 pounds. And then you bottom out and the force goes up, though less so.

Other Factors. Does the extra stretch bother you? Probably personal. Is stepping on rope a greater hazard than webbing? For 8.2 mm rope, not much, but on a monohull (sloping decks) that may be more of an issue. Construction? Either knots (testing assumed figure-8 knots) or sewn eyes are practical.

A critical biometric factor, not easily relayed by a machine or simple data, is that a force that comes on gradually (the dynamic rope) allows the muscles time to tighten and resist. A sudden 500-pound kick before a screamer gives is painful and damaging, like a blindside blow, even at the same force level. You truly feel the difference. 

Dynamic rope or a screamer--The best solution? For smaller, more routine falls on the deck, the rope is
kinder. For that once in 100 sailors' lifetimes, torn from the cockpit by a rogue wave impact, the screamer/webbing combination is competitive, though the climbing rope tethers are still survivable without serious harness impact injury; both could have impact forces of 1000-1500 pounds depending on the force of the wave, and it would hurt, but not break ribs or vertebrate. A climbing rope, even 8.2 mm, has greater energy absorption capacity than a webbing/Screamer combination. Thus few climbers use Screamers, but they ALL use dynamic ropes.

The only disadvantage of rope over webbing is the  potential for rolling under foot. A dynamic webbing would be nice, but I could not find any. On a catamaran this is a limited problem (level decks), and the roll-under-foot potential is reduced by the small size of 8.2 mm line (5/16-inch).

What have I done? I've switched to 8.2 mm dynamic tethers. It is kinder on the back for minor falls and even over the edge. It is lighter than the webbing/Screamer combination and easier to hold on to.

-----------

Where to get limited quantities of dynamic (climbing) rope?
MEC sells both single and half rope off spools, by the foot.
Half Rope,
Single Rope.

Super Simple Solar

After dealing with the complex power system of my PDQ, installing a surplus panel on my F-24 was the work of a few hours and few dollars.

The panel. I like rigid panels, but semi-flexible can make a lot of sense for small boats. The key is that they should not be stepped on, no matter what the vendor says. They use the same silicon cells and they are fragile. Also, they should only be flex once, during installation onto firm support. A bimini is by definition a problem, a common cause of premature failure. The typical story is that "it was a great installation," and then several year later, "I need to get better panels; these didn't last." Of course they didn't. They flexed in the wind and the cells developed thousands of microcracks.

Open circuit voltage of a "nominal" 12 volt panel is about 20 volts. The moment it is attached to a load that drops way down.

Location is always a conundrum; where on the boat never sees shade. The answer, with sails up, is that there is no such place. Since I hate arches and the F-24 is a sport boat, flat on top of the slider was the right answer. It's not under foot and the boom can be swung to the side to leave it clear at anchor. Another advantage of the slider location is that the screws are not into corred deck and thus leaks are unlikely.

There is no need to mess with the main panel. Solar systems wire direct to the battery (or studs that are directly connected). They should NOT be isolated by the battery switch. However, you will need a fuse.  A simple in-line fuse is fine.


Wire size need not be large for a 50 watt panel; #14 AWG is enough. With larger panels you need to stay below about 3% voltage drop.

A simple automated charge controller can be had for $25. Two wires come from the panel, two go to the battery and fuse. Generally they are smart enough to sense the battery and type, regulate bulk and float charging, and schedule equalizing. Wow.

I could write pages about good wiring practices. Use a ratchet crimper, adjusted for the fittings you are using.  use grease on the contacts. Keep things neat. And don't forget the fuse (panels are known to short-out). MC-4 connectors are very good in a marine environment, but I always seem to cut them off and just crimp things together; the pigtail length is always wrong, the replacement panel will be a different shape, and they don't actually aid in troubleshooting.

It couldn't be much simpler these days. If you've got questions, just ask.

PDQ 32/34 Shoal Survivor--Sold

 Ready for a tropical vacation? Anchored just off Warrior's Rest, MD.

PDQ yachts are known for superior quality, durability, and ability in heavy going. Quality resins, synthetic cores, vacuum-bagged construction, and strategic use of carbon fiber result in light weight, strength, and freedom from delamination and blistering. Systems are well thought out, designed for easy maintenance, and carefully installed. Unlike the "price point” the boats they often compete with, these were built with years of bulletproof, reliable service in mind; if quality is important to you, this PDQ will make you happy.

The broad deck provides comfortable lounging, both  at anchor and underway. A custom bridle and 35-pound Manson Supreme anchor insure comfortable, secure nights. A Fortress FX-16 provides back-up.

The subject of nearly 100 articles in Practical Sailor and Good Old Boat Magazine, Shoal Survivor has been lovingly maintained and thoughtfully upgraded in many subtle ways to increase comfort,  reduce maintenance, increase reliability, and add to the "cruisability" of this great boat design.

This is was the first extended PDQ 32/34 Altair. Two extra feet of hull clean up the wake, improve performance, and smooth out the ride. A bottom step is now 32 inches wide, providing easy boarding and improved "play time" at anchor. Working with the tender and kayaks is more comfortable, swimming is more fun, and a comfortable transom shower makes for a pleasant end to a summer's day.

Shoal Survivor is simply the fastest, most thoughtfully tweaked PDQ32/34 out there. And she's ready to go anywhere, any time. No question about it.

For more information, please contact me using the Contact Form on the sidebar, or by e-mail at fryefamily2@verizon.net. I will forward additional information and we can arrange for a viewing and inspection in Deale, MD.

(Note: items denoted with highlight and underline are links to more information. There are also over 360 posts in this blog, most of which detail up-grades and maintenance.) 

Builder/Designer:

• Builder: PDQ Yachts, Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Dimensions:

• LOA: 34 feet
• LWL: 33 feet 4 inches
• Beam: 16 feet
• Weight: About 8,500 pounds
• Draft: 3 feet, 3 inches. Keels have been faired and extended for improved windward pointing and speed.
• Bridge Clearance: 49 feet
• Bridge Deck Clearance: 40 inches (fwd) / 23 inches (aft)

Engines:

• Engines: Two 9.9 hp Yamaha retractable outboard motors (new August 2012). 4-cycle, high thrust, long shaft.
• Morse MT-3 Controls (New March 2013)
• Hours: approx. 175
• Cruising Speed: 6.5 knots
• Maximum speed 7.4 knots

Tankage:

• Fuel: 27 gallons
• Fresh Water: 47 gallons
• Holding: 30 gallons
• Two  10-pound propane tanks in factory-vented locker. Sensors in both hulls.

A simple touch screen gives access to all air conditioner functions.

Heating and Air conditioning:

• Air Conditioning: Dometic Turbo 10,000 BTU air conditioner. Runs on 120V AC, pulls only 8 amps running. Can run on batteries for several hours.
• Heat: Dickenson P9000 4,500 BTU propane fireplace with sealed flue.
• Hot Water: Takagi T-K Jr. propane tankless hot water heater. Exterior vented, located in bulk-headed, isolated starboard bow compartment. 

Sail Area:

• 507 sq. ft. with self-tacking jib
• 645 sq. ft. with genoa
• 847 sq. ft. with spinnaker

The squeezer (at top) makes setting by a single person easy. 

The large trampoline makes for easy drops.

 An adjustable tack bridle makes for perfect trim, from close reach to run.

Interior:

Shoal Survivor’s interior is bright, airy and easy on the eyes. Fitted with the "classic" layout, she has two private cabins with queen-sized beds (standard linens), a roomy salon with 270˚ views, full galley, navigation station, and a head with shower. She sleeps up to 6 people with the use of twin flip-up convertible berths in the salon. The interior finish is fiberglass with all cabinetry in cherry veneers and solid cherry trim. Seating and berth surfaces are upholstered. Flooring is teak and holly throughout.
 

The trade-mark PDQ 32  slider opens the salon up like few other boats. The helmsman can speak to the loungers--no one is isolated, unless they chose to retreat to one of two private, queen-size cabins.

Vessel Walk-Through:
Entry from the cockpit is through a well-designed full-width sliding hatchway leading to the salon. The salon features a dinette with a solid cherry table with storage in the center. The table provides comfortable dining for six people and folds down if desired (rope tackle). The U-shaped settee surrounding the table is upholstered in dark blue striped Sunbrella removable cushions. Storage space is provided under each of the salon seats, with hinged tops with custom lift-out trays for smaller items. A swing-down television and DVD player provide evening entertainment.

Broad windows and a skylight provide an unobstructed view from the helm. All zip-out, if desired in fair weather.
Enclosure new in 2011

The aft sections of both hulls contain mirror image private cabins with queen-size athwartship berths. The berths use standard queen-size double bedding with 3-inch high density foam mattresses with toppers. Each sleeping cabin has a hanging locker, cupboards, storage bins and six opening hatches to provide excellent ventilation. A huge storage area is available under each bunk to stow sails and cruising paraphernalia. The lids are hinged, with props, to allow easy access without un-making the bed.

Twin aft cabins (port and starboard) feature a queen-size bed (standard size linens), numerous small cabinets, and a small hanging closet. A fan and six opening hatches keep the air moving. There is a cavernous locker under the bed.


The remainder of the port hull is devoted to the galley, including a propane refrigerator, microwave, 2-burner propane stove, and numerous cabinets.

The amidships section of the starboard hull contains the navigation station. A large inset shelf provides ample chart and small part storage. The main electrical panel hinges down for easy access. Air conditioning, heating, inverter, and stereo controls are also located in this area. The opposing wall contains cabinets, a bench seat, and a hanging locker.

The forward section of the starboard hull contains the private head. Equipment includes a Jabsco manual head, shower with hot and cold pressurized water, sump pump and sink, and exhaust vent fan. There is also a mirror, towel racks and two cherry storage cabinets.

There's nothing like fresh crabs and cockpit dining. Parks Marina, Tangier Island.

The hard top makes for good times even with afternoon rain. No need to button up the companionway door or slider.

 Galley Equipment:                                                                                    Dedicated propane locker.

• LPG propane system. 2 x 10-pound tanks in a vented deck locker. Solenoid interlock system and Fireboy Xintec s-2A gas detectors in both hulls.
• Seaward two-burner propane stove.
• Polished stainless steel double sink.
• Built-in NSF 53 water filtration system removes cysts and greater than 99% of bacteria. Water is also pre-filtered before filling, and the vent is screened. (This post describes prudent and established water filtration practice)
• Dometic 3.0 cu. ft. propane refrigerator.
• Plentiful storage in cherry cabinets.
• A flip-down cutting board and drop-in extension extend usable area. Custom fiberglass countertop guards.
• Custom cherry slide-out spice rack.
• Microwave oven.
• 120 volt outlets.
• 12 volt fan.
• Bilges in both hulls are dry and provide excellent storage for bottles and cans.

Design and Construction:

• Vacuum-bagged composite construction
• Vinylester resin skin over hand-laid tri-axial knit fiberglass fabric with high-tensile marine resin and Klegecell foam core.
• Hulls are solid below the waterline.
• Low aspect fin keels have sacrificial sections to deflect much of an impact away from the main structure of the boat.
• PCA Gold two-year anti-fouling paint (will re-paint during inspection haul-out).

Rig:

• Seldon 39’ aluminum mast (masthead rig.
• One forestay, two cap shrouds, one set of diamond shrouds; all stays are 1×19 stainless steel wire with swaged terminals and turnbuckles.
• Lazy jacks.
• Raymarine ST60 masthead instruments plus Windex indicator.
• Twin Lewmar 40 2-speed winches at mast.
• Flag halyard on starboard spreader.
• Spinnaker halyard and rigging
• Topping lift.
• Extra halyard sheave and outlet available.
• Hood Seafurl 800 furling gear (re-build with upgraded bearings 2009).
• Main: Mack Sails full-batten main (new 2014). 3 reefs.

 Lazyjacks (retracted) make sail handling a breeze.

•  Blue Sunbrella main sail cover.
• 150% Genoa: Quantum, 2006, with UV leach protection replace 2013.

 

Inside sheeting track allows optimum genoa trim to windward--only PDQ32 with this feature.

• Self-tacking jib: 1997 with UV leach protection. Seldom used and stored in air conditioned room.
• Spinnaker, 2006. Red, White and Blue Asymmetrical Spinnaker with adjustable bow bridle.
• Four self-tailing 2-speed cockpit winches (two Harken 32s, and two Lewmar 40s).

Under Genoa, 7 knots. The value of good bridge deck clearance is clear.

Under Genoa, 7 knots. The value of good bridge deck clearance is clear.

 

Under spinnaker, 7 knots. Smooth.

Hull and Deck Equipment:                                                                          Big under-bunk lockers!

• Vinyl-dipped Dacron trampoline, very secure and comfortable.
• Deck cleats (6): one on each bow, one on each transom and one each side of amidships.
• Bow fairleads: one on each bow on inboard side for chafe-free mooring.
• Transom fairleads:  custom line deflectors guide mooring lines under dinghy.
• Large deck lockers in each bow for storage of anchoring paraphernalia and misc items.
• Large stern lockers for boat gear and cleaning supplies.
• Lewmar and Beckson opening hatches: (21).
• Swim shower on starboard stern steps
• Manson Supreme primary anchor (35 lb.) with 100 feet of  1/4-inch G43 chain and 150 feet of  1/2-inch nylon rode, stainless anchor roller with hawse pipe (starboard).
• Lewmar V700 electric windlass (2013) on Port for primary anchor. Controls at helm for single-handed anchoring. Foot controls at bow.
• Fortress FX-16 secondary anchor with chain and nylon rode. Stored in transom locker for easy deployment in dual-anchor situations.
• Two custom anchor bridles with locking chain hooks.

A center cockpit is secure in all weather, rain or shine.

Jacklines make moving on deck safe in all weather.

• Harken 8-foot mainsail traveler with 3:1 Harken controls.
• 6-spoke Whitlock steering wheel.
• Padded helm seat.
• Fan at helm.
• New cockpit canvas, 2012.
• Hardtop Bimini including two LED light and 2 x 85 watt solar panel array.
• Canvas sheet and storage bags (2).
• Removable cedar cockpit sole.
• Winch handle pockets (2).
• Winch handles (3).
• Numerous dock lines (various lengths).
• Numerous fenders (various sizes) and fender board
• Swim ladder on starboard stern.
• Transoms stretched 2 feet in 2014 to provide improved boarding and speed.

With hull extensions, 7.5 knots. a nice smooth wake.

Looking from port cabin, forward into galley. The hanging locker is on the left, near the door.

Cabins: Two identical aft cabins are equipped as follows:

• Queen-size bed (uses standard queen-sized linens).
• Small hanging closet.
• Numerous small cabinets.
• Reading lights.
• Fan.

Salon:

• Two Caframo Bora fans.
• DVD player and fold-down TV screen with Bose speakers.
• Table seats six. Storage in center of table.
• Flip-up leaves create two twin berths.
• Storage under seats, including removable storage trays.
• Screens and storm windows for all opening ports. Covers (canvas or fiberglass) for all windows.

 Head:

• Shower with hot water.
• Head (new pump 2015).
• Medicine cabinet and storage.
• Exhaust fan. 
•  Holding tank vent filter (refillable) prevents odor. New sanitation hoses 2011.

Electrical system:

• Three 12-volt 145 AH batteries (435 AH total), new August 2011.
• 160W Solar Panel array (2 x 80 watts) on cockpit hardtop.
• Morningstar Solar controller with current and voltage display.
• Heart 2000W Inverter/Charger battery management system.
• Full 120 volt AC/12 volt DC Paneltronics electrical panel.
• Shore power cord, 50 ft.
• 120V outlets: galley, head, salon, navigation station, and cabins.
• Low-power fluorescent lighting in salon and hulls. LED lighting in cockpit.

Twin 85-watt rigid panels provide power at anchor.

Electronics/Navigation:

• Magellan FX 324 Color Map GPS Chart plotter at helm with charts for Caribbean and North America.
• Raytheon Autopilot (compass course or wind direction).
• Raytheon Tridata (speed, wind, depth, water temperature).
• Standard Horizon VHF.
• 4-inch Ritchie magnetic compass.
• Sony Radio/CD player with 2 speakers.
• Flat screen TV (swing-away mounting) with DVD player and Bose speakers.

Engines and Fuel System:

• Supplemental Raycor filtration, each engine.
• Silica gel vent filter reduces fuel evaporation and water absorption, increasing engine reliability.
• Lifeguard vent trap prevents vent over flows.

Tender:

• Mercury 3.5 HP 2-stroke engine will built-in fuel tank. Portable 1.5 gallon tank.
• 9-foot, 2-inch BoatUS inflatable. Hypalon with hard floor, 2002. Includes composite seat, paddles, anchor, and air pump. New floor 2012, refurbished 2017.
• Dinghy davits with upgraded 6:1 rigging, plus tricing lines and aluminum spreader bar. Two kayaks are easily carried on top of davits. 
• Anchor (stainless steel Mantus Dinghy) and rode.

A dinghy and two kayaks are no problem at all. Even with full tanks, the transoms are still out of the water. The boarding platforms and ladder (starboard) make for easy access to all of your water toys. Swim platform shower (door on starboard transom) is great for washing off the salt. (there is also a hot water shower in the head compartment).

 

Extended transoms make for comfortable boarding of the tenders and kayaks. Great for passengers with mobility limitations and fun for the kids.

Safety Equipment:

• Whale bilge pumps (2); shower gulper pump.
• Life Sling with rail-mounted soft case.
• Full jacklines and dedicated hard points for safety tethers.
• Signal horn, flares, etc.
• Six life jackets.
• Two fire extinguishers.
• Lifelines with six gates and stanchions surround the deck.

Miscellaneous:

• Magma barbecue grill with on rail attachment and Sunbrella cover.
• Mesh slider mosquito screen.
• Cleaning supplies: bucket, mops, deck brushes.
• Numerous miscellaneous spare parts.
• Gasoline jerry cans (5-gallon and 1.5-gallon for tender).
• Bike rack for transom rail. Carries standard bikes.
• Trolling equipment (fishing), including several Cuban yo-yos and removable mini-outriggers. 

Why is she for sale? I wish she wasn't. But I've been sailing for over 30 years and it's time for something different.

The Bookstore

Over the past ten years I’ve published more than 200 magazine articles, on topics ranging from simple product reviews to complex engineering analysis.  Lamentably, a magazine format doesn’t allow the writer to present complete ideas and the back-up they deserve. Instead, magazine style demands punchy headlines, read-at-glance text, and lots of pictures. And yet I have truly enjoyed the process of writing for magazines, the broad range of topics it suggested, and the great people I was able to work with. I've been encouraged to take on research that otherwise would have gone wanting.

In these books I’ve gone back to my original text, before it was cut for size. I’ve added material where new research or experience suggested, and corrected a few things where the passage of time and miles of sailing have taught me better. I've added whole topic areas that simply aren't magazine fodder. I hope the full story will, help you solve problems, extend your sailing horizons, and encourage critical thinking about all you read and your sailing experiences.

It’s been my pleasure.

[click on either the PDF or Kindle link, depending on which format you need. The PDF contains slightly better detail and is updated more frequently.]

How-To books

Keeping a Cruising Boat for Peanuts

2017, Kindle, about 425 pages, $9.99.

 
PDF, 410 pages, $10.00

Buy Now at SellFY. 

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Table of Contents

As much as I love sailing, putting my daughter through college and funding my 401K are more important. Transitioning from professional engineer to writer has transformed my habit of living efficiently into a passion for spreading funds thin. I like to think of it as a challenge for the imagination—it’s more fun that way.

I’ve written over 200 equipment reviews and engineering articles for popular sailing magazines, all based on laboratory and hands-on testing. I’ve spent 30 years learning how to maintain, fix, and upgrade. I've also spent 35 years as a chemical engineer, and my wife thinks I live in my basement shop. 

As a result I’ve become a fair hand most crafts, never get stuck in the field with something I can’t fix, and I've learned to spread money thin, without compromising speed, reliability, or function. Although I've written on many topics, my wife assures me this is the one I know best. My magnum opus? 

Check the Table of Contents link to glimpse the range of topics covered. Everything from cheap maintenance and effective multi-step water treatment, to installing air conditioning, solar, modifying keels, and other upgrades minor and major.

Like the fellow on the World War II poster, abandon all pretense of dignity, and enjoy 30 years of methods proven to keep money in your pocket.

Rigging Modern Anchors

Rigging Modern Anchors

First print edition, 2018, by Seaworthy Press. About 156 pages.

I've been setting and trusting anchors with my life (climbing) and my boat (sailing) for 35 years. I've been testing and documenting anchor testing for 5 years, and I've spent the last two sifting, collating, and analyzing all that I have learned. The result, I believe, is a complete description of what is actually going on below the waves, not just descriptively or as oral history from an old salt, but with numerical back-up everywhere I could provided it. I hope it helps. I know I sleep better. From the back cover of the book:

“Rigging Modern Anchors” demystifies anchoring with today’s modern anchors. Through years of systematic testing, Drew Frye has produced a new benchmark of understanding based on empirical data instead of anecdotal wisdom, passed down from one sailor to the next without proof or deep understanding. In “Rigging Modern Anchors” we dig deeply into the how and why of anchoring, using hard numbers as our foundation.

Included are in-depth discussions of anchoring basics, loads, scope, and the effects of cyclical loading, soil consolidation and bottom characteristics on holding power. Special attention is given to problem bottoms such as very soft mud and rock. There are anchor-specific observations, discussions of tandem anchors and rigging methods, plus an extensive appendix containing test data, open source designs for bridle plates and anchor turners, strength and toughness for various chain types, anchor connector recommendations, anchor sizing guides and more.

Proper anchoring technique, rigging, and gear selection is vital to the safety of ship and crew. Instead of hoping your anchor and rigging scheme will hold, read “Rigging Modern Anchors” and be sure.

 

 


Cruising Fast, Cruising Small


PDF, 2019, First Edition, 288 pages, $10.00 

Buy Now at SellFY. 

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I cut my cruising teeth in smaller boats, and now I'm back at it, sharpening my small boat cruising
mojo on my F-24 Mk I trimaran. From Chapter 1:

One Keeping it Small

This is not a book for racers. Although I raced performance catamarans in my youth, I’ve lost my taste for it. This is not a book for bluewater cruisers. Popular magazines are full of tales of daring-do, circumnavigators, and crossings to the Mediterranean. It’s not a primer for beginning sailors, although I mean it to be readable at all levels. It is simply a compilation of ideas that may help you cruise a little bit better in the boat you have. If you like it a lot and decide to cross oceans, you’ll be better served by a larger boat and a different book. In this book we’ll keep things small and simple.

For many of us, the pull of the water is summed up by this powerful quote from The Wind in the Willows; “Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.” But that Chapter one quotation is often stretched completely out of context, into a moral imperative to ditch all and go to sea. In fact, in Chapter 9, the very same innocent water rat, so taken in chapter one with the river and his clinker-built rowboat, spends a day with a charismatic seafaring rat. Our simple, provincial water rat is so completely mesmerized by the vast and sweeping stories (exaggerated, no doubt) told by the wayfaring rat about his adventures aboard a coastal freighter and the mysteries of the many ports of call, that immediately upon returning home he begins to plan his own departure to the sea. He tries to explain his new compulsion to his friends but can’t find a rational argument. He fights through fits and seizures until, in his own words, he regains his sanity.

The Seafaring Rat spinning yarns.

The Wind in the Willows, Chapter 9.

What most of us need is a miniature adventure. It suits the time available. More to the point, it fits our priorities. We have families ashore. We have friends. We have shore-based interests at least as important and valid. In other words, the myth, yea the fantasy, of casting all aside and following the winds across an ocean isn’t something we’re avoiding out of cowardice, but rather because it makes no damn sense to us. For heaven sake, we’re land animals, and we like it that way.

On Keeping it Fast

"People sail for fun and no one has yet convinced me that it's more fun to go slow than it is to go fast."

The late Richard "Dick" Newick

I don’t understand sailing slow. I mean, I like relaxing and I don’t care for racing, but I like to sail as well as I can and like a boat that is properly tuned. I like getting where I’m going, not drifting about. Fast is fun. I can always reef and slow way down, if that is what my mood requires. Sometimes it does.

I don’t understand racing, at least not anymore. I mean, I have raced, and I understand the rewards of completion, both with yourself and others, but the way many look down on anything not related to victory on the course seems narrow minded, to me. No weekend cruises. No fishing. No balance.

That said, if you want to race, good for you! Many of  the upgrades I’ll suggest are speed or handling tweaks, and many will work within your class rules. Skip changes that add significant weight and read the section on shaving weight twice. Store your daysailing and cruising gear in bags that can be hauled off the boat in minutes; I hate disorganized clutter anyway. I think you’ll find our mind sets are not that far apart. Some would argue my cruising is racing without the formality.

I’ve found happiness in daysailing and fast cruising, and so this book has a natural slant in that direction, towards multihulls and sport boats. But that doesn’t mean I’m a racer at heart. I like understanding what makes a boat go and I like practicing good sailing, but I’d take a bad week of cruising over an hour’s recrimination over why we didn’t win any day.

So yeah, while this book is about trailerable multihulls and sport boats like the Corsair F-24, Seascape 24 and J-70, it’s also about anything under 30 feet that you promise to sail well.

It’s about fun boats!

Singlehanded Sailing for the Coastal Sailor

2017, Kindle, 158 pages.

PDF, third edition, 2019, 160 pages, $10.00

 Buy Now at SellFY. 

 https://xfkvuzch.sellfy.store/p/

For many of us, the pull is summed up by the powerful quote from The Wind in the Willows; “Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.” But that chapter one quotation is often stretched completely out of context, into a moral imperative to ditch all and go to sea. In fact, the very same innocent water rat, that was so taken with the river and his simple clinker-built  rowboat in Chapter 1, later spends a day with a charismatic seafaring rat in Chapter 9. Our simple, provincial water rat is so completely mesmerized by the vast and sweeping stories (exaggerated, no doubt) told by the wayfaring rat about his adventures aboard a coastal freighter, and the mysteries of the many ports of call, that immediately upon returning home he begins to plan his own departure to the sea. He tries to explain his compulsion to his friends but can't find a rational argument. He fights through fits and seizures until, in his own words, he regains his sanity.

What most of us want is a miniature adventure that fits within the time available. More to the point, it fits our priorities. We have families ashore. We have friends. We have shore-bound interests at least as important and valid. More likely our need to singlehand is a practical thing; “I want to go sailing. Now.” 

I’ve written this for coastal cruisers. I haven't circled the globe, but I have sailed 25,000 miles round and round the Chesapeake and along the Atlantic coast over the past 30 years, most of it alone. I’ve accumulated the practical sort of 15- to 50-mile day sort of experience that matters, navigating shoals, anchoring or docking daily, and returning to my real life after a few days to week afloat. We don't sail gold plated boats we bought from a dealer. We sail 5- to 30-year old boats and we spread our upkeep dollars thin, but without sacrificing function or safety.

Specific thoughts for the solo sailor? Just a few. Know your limitations and stay within them—the thoughtful beginner can be safe. Be a jack of all trades—whatever fails, it’s all on you. Choose your weather and be flexible—who were you trying to impress? Go home when it’s not fun anymore.

Faster Cruising for the Coastal Sailor

Kindle 2017, about 200 pages

 
2017, PDF, 183 pages, $10.00.

Buy Now at SellFY. 

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Table of Contents

This book is about covering more miles from dawn to dusk, without running yourself ragged in the process. It’s not about racing disguised as cruising. I’m not pushing new sails, obsessive sail trim, or watch keeping routines. It certainly is not about sleep deprivation and crossing oceans.

It is about:

·         Getting the most from what you’ve got.

·         Simple modifications that bring big benefits on small dollars.

·         The basics of short-handed sailing.

·         Efficiency in all things.

·         Getting where you’re going a little earlier in the day, with more time to play. 

I've done a little racing, but for me, it was always about the joy of moving well, and not about turning a good day on the water into an exercise in exhausting focus. If you want to dawdle some days that’s OK too. I’ll make it easier.

Cruising Guides

Circumnavigating the Delmarva Peninsula—A Guide for the Shoal Draft Sailor

2014, Kindle, 257 pages, $8.99.

 
2017, PDF, 159 pages, $10.00

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Table of Contents

The writing of this book has been a 10-year labor of love, summarizing all we have learned in six circumnavigations, and all we have learned of this trip from locals and other sailors. I remain baffled by how many race around the Delmarva, rather than visiting the small places and absorbing the flavor. True, the prospect and the reality of piloting changeable inlets is intimidating, and we'll take you off the beaten path, but mostly these are places any boat could go, that had the time; I have describe both the conventional paths, and the more adventurous and rewarding alternatives.

We brought back the details of a world known only to watermen and local sailors. I hope I have brought real life this tale; I know how deeply I enjoyed the time spent with my family.