On a pleasant windless day at a dock 150 miles from home, I decided to partly lower our furling genoa so that I could put a few stitches and necessary patches on the sacrificial leech cover. A simple morning task to pass the time in a sailorly way. We were 10 days into a 2 1/2 week cruise around the Delmarva. I released the halyard tension, lowered the sail a few inches, and watched 48 ball bearings merrily dribble onto the trampoline, filter through the netting, and plop into the harbor.
The furler had been prone to catching for the past few days. It would roll fairly easily for a bit, then seize, and after a good tug, roll easily again. The bearings in this furler are half-and-half stainless and Torlon, and it seems the Torlon bearings had worn down to where the stainless bearings would ride up over them. Eventually, the wedging force pushed the lower circlip out of its groove and the lower race fell apart, unnoticed. My genoa is a little to long on the luff but still, it sets very well with no halyard tention; in fact, some wieght rests on the tack, just a little, and this held the upper race in position. When I went to re-hoist the sail the the foil was lifted by normal friction in the groove, the top half of the furler was lifted, and everything fell apart.
Although I could no longer furl the sail, I could still use the luff extrusion as a foil, so we lowered the large geona and planned on using the much smaller self-tacking jib for the 3-day trip home. The weather forecast called for strong winds on the nose the first day, followed by spinnaker reaching conditions for the next two days. That is how it worked out, so the loss of the furler was no great handicap.
Back at home, after considerable stress over the great cost of replacement unit, I set about disassembling the furler drive. It is a simple matter: bring the jib and spinnaker halyards forward and tension with winch; place a pad under the boom and release the topping lift - this relieves some tension from the forestay; remove the plastic set screw between the luff extrusion and the drive tube, remove the split aluminum castings, and while supporting the luff extrusion, gently lower until it rests on the turnbuckle - the luff extrusion will slide right through the drive unit; lift both the luff extrusion and the drive unit and place a vice-grip on the flats of the lower end of the forestay wire - this will support these parts and keep the forestay from turning when the turnbuckle is loosened; remove the cotter pins, and loosen and remove the turnbuckle - it was not necessary to loosen the shroud turnbuckles; remove the vise-grips and slide the furler drive off the forestay, while supporting the luff extrusion; replace the vise grips on the flats to hold the luff extrusion in place.
Replacing the bearings is quite simple. Each race (4 races) contains 48 x 9/64-inch 440C stainless balls, McMaster-Carr part number 9642K31. Parts are also available at Pompanette Co.. They are most easily installed by assembling the races first, and then inserting them from the bottom up, flipping the assembly over as needed. I used waterproof grease, but if you are using plastic balls and wish to assemble the mechanism without grease you will still need something sticky to hold the balls in place; tooth paste works and will rinse out. I have used it on other projects with Torlon balls. Be certain to tap the circlips securely into their grooves. Be careful to position the four
set screws into the matching holes in the drive tube. In my case I was not able to separate the stainless steel basket from the bearing tube and thus was not able to reinstall the furler line in the normal manner. However, a clove hitch around the spool with the stopper knot on a dead-end has proven secure. The heads of the set screws provide extra grip.
Even fully furled, with the sheet around the sail twice, there should be a few turns on the drum.
If you cannot a proper knot through the hole (sometimes the drum is stuck to the core due to corrosion) the line can be secured with a clove hitch. The set screw nubs are enough to make it secure.
In my case, since I elected to get rid of the failure-prone mix of Torlon and stainless, I am using grease. To reduce the intrusion of salt spray I fitted a large (~3"x 1/8-inch thick, fitting just inside the tack fitting) polyethylene washer to the top of the stack, just above the top circlip. That is really the only place water can enter. I drilled a small drain in the stainless basket. We will see.
Notice that I also added a plastic ring above the furler as a drip ring, deflecting rain that drips down the forestay. Does it help? Not sure, but they are still smooth after 4 years. In a few more years I will open it up and re-grease, but for the moment, it feels and sounds (no squeaks or vibration--just smooth) like there is still grease in there.
What I am actually doing in this photo (11/2015) is spraying water NikWax repellent treatment on the furler line. I sail all winter and this prevents the line from freezing, which can be a big problem.
Piece of cake. I imagine I will be doing this every 5 years or so, under considerably less mental stress.
Ready for a tropical vacation? Anchored just off Warrior's Rest, MD.
PDQ yachts are known for superior quality, durability, and ability in heavy going. Quality
resins, synthetic cores, vacuum-bagged construction, and strategic use
of carbon fiber result in light weight, strength, and freedom from
delamination and blistering. Systems are well thought out,
designed for easy maintenance, and carefully installed. Unlike the
"price point” the boats they often compete with, these were built with
years of bulletproof, reliable service in mind; if quality is important
to you, this PDQ will make you happy.
The
broad deck provides comfortable lounging, both at anchor and underway.
A custom bridle and 35-pound Manson Supreme anchor insure comfortable,
secure nights. A Fortress FX-16 provides back-up.
The subject of nearly 100 articles in Practical Sailor and Good Old Boat Magazine, Shoal Survivor
has been lovingly maintained and thoughtfully upgraded in many subtle
ways to increase comfort, reduce maintenance, increase reliability, and
add to the "cruisability" of this great boat design.
This is was the first extended PDQ 32/34 Altair.
Two extra feet of hull clean up the wake, improve performance, and
smooth out the ride. A bottom step is now 32 inches wide, providing easy
boarding and improved "play time" at anchor. Working with the tender
and kayaks is more comfortable, swimming is more fun, and a comfortable
transom shower makes for a pleasant end to a summer's day.
Shoal Survivor
is simply the fastest, most thoughtfully tweaked PDQ32/34 out there.
And she's ready to go anywhere, any time. No question about it.
For more information, please contact me using the ContactForm
on the sidebar, or by e-mail at fryefamily2@verizon.net. I will forward
additional information and we can arrange for a viewing and inspection
in Deale, MD.
(Note: items denoted with highlight and underline are links to more information. There are also over 360 posts in this blog, most of which detail up-grades and maintenance.)
Builder/Designer:
Builder: PDQ Yachts, Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Dimensions:
LOA: 34 feet
LWL: 33 feet 4 inches
Beam: 16 feet
Weight: About 8,500 pounds
Draft: 3 feet, 3 inches. Keels have been faired and extended for improved windward pointing and speed.
Two 10-pound propane tanks in factory-vented locker. Sensors in both hulls.
A simple touch screen gives access to all air conditioner functions.
Heating and Air conditioning:
Air Conditioning: Dometic Turbo 10,000 BTU air conditioner. Runs on
120V AC, pulls only 8 amps running. Can run on batteries for several
hours.
Heat: Dickenson P9000 4,500 BTU propane fireplace with sealed flue.
Hot Water: Takagi T-K Jr. propane tankless hot water heater.
Exterior vented, located in bulk-headed, isolated starboard bow
compartment.
Sail Area:
507 sq. ft. with self-tacking jib
645 sq. ft. with genoa
847 sq. ft. with spinnaker
The squeezer (at top) makes setting by a single person easy.
The large trampoline makes for easy drops.
An adjustable tack bridle makes for perfect trim, from close reach to run.
Interior:
Shoal Survivor’s
interior is bright, airy and easy on the eyes. Fitted with the
"classic" layout, she has two private cabins with queen-sized beds
(standard linens), a roomy salon with 270˚ views, full galley,
navigation station, and a head with shower. She sleeps up to 6 people
with the use of twin flip-up convertible berths in the salon. The
interior finish is fiberglass with all cabinetry in cherry veneers and
solid cherry trim. Seating and berth surfaces are upholstered. Flooring
is teak and holly throughout.
The
trade-mark PDQ 32 slider opens the salon up like few other boats. The
helmsman can speak to the loungers--no one is isolated, unless they
chose to retreat to one of two private, queen-size cabins.
Vessel Walk-Through:
Entry
from the cockpit is through a well-designed full-width sliding
hatchway leading to the salon. The salon features a dinette with a solid
cherry table with storage in the center.
The table provides comfortable dining for six people and folds down if
desired (rope tackle). The U-shaped settee surrounding the table is
upholstered in dark blue striped Sunbrella removable cushions. Storage space
is provided under each of the salon seats, with hinged tops with custom
lift-out trays for smaller items. A swing-down television and DVD
player provide evening entertainment.
Broad windows and a skylight provide an unobstructed view from the helm. All zip-out, if desired in fair weather. Enclosure new in 2011
The
aft sections of both hulls contain mirror image private cabins with
queen-size athwartship berths. The berths use standard queen-size double
bedding with 3-inch high density foam mattresses with toppers. Each
sleeping cabin has a hanging locker, cupboards, storage bins and six
opening hatches to provide excellent ventilation. A huge storage area is available under each bunk to stow sails and cruising paraphernalia. The lids are hinged, with props, to allow easy access without un-making the bed.
Twin
aft cabins (port and starboard) feature a queen-size bed (standard size
linens), numerous small cabinets, and a small hanging closet. A fan and
six opening hatches keep the air moving. There is a cavernous locker
under the bed.
The remainder of the port
hull is devoted to the galley, including a propane refrigerator,
microwave, 2-burner propane stove, and numerous cabinets.
The
amidships section of the starboard hull contains the navigation
station. A large inset shelf provides ample chart and small part
storage. The main electrical panel hinges down for easy access. Air
conditioning, heating, inverter, and stereo controls are also located in
this area. The opposing wall contains cabinets, a bench seat, and a
hanging locker.
The forward section of the starboard
hull contains the private head. Equipment includes a Jabsco manual
head, shower with hot and cold pressurized water, sump pump and sink,
and exhaust vent fan. There is also a mirror, towel racks and two
cherry storage cabinets.
There's nothing like fresh crabs and cockpit dining. Parks Marina, Tangier Island.
The hard top makes for good times even with afternoon rain. No need to button up the companionway door or slider.
Galley Equipment: Dedicated propane locker.
LPG
propane system. 2 x 10-pound tanks in a vented deck locker.
Solenoid interlock system and Fireboy Xintec s-2A gas detectors in
both hulls.
Seaward two-burner propane stove.
Polished stainless steel double sink.
Built-in
NSF 53 water filtration system removes cysts and greater than 99%
of bacteria. Water is also pre-filtered before filling, and the
vent is screened. (This post describes prudent and established water filtration practice)
Dometic 3.0 cu. ft. propane refrigerator.
Plentiful storage in cherry cabinets.
A flip-down cutting board and drop-in extension extend usable area. Custom fiberglass countertop guards.
Custom cherry slide-out spice rack.
Microwave oven.
120 volt outlets.
12 volt fan.
Bilges in both hulls are dry and provide excellent storage for bottles and cans.
Design and Construction:
Vacuum-bagged composite construction
Vinylester resin skin over hand-laid tri-axial knit fiberglass fabric with high-tensile marine resin and Klegecell foam core.
Hulls are solid below the waterline.
Low aspect fin keels have sacrificial sections to deflect much of an impact away from the main structure of the boat.
PCA Gold two-year anti-fouling paint (will re-paint during inspection haul-out).
Rig:
Seldon 39’ aluminum mast (masthead rig.
One forestay, two cap shrouds, one set of diamond shrouds; all stays
are 1×19 stainless steel wire with swaged terminals and turnbuckles.
Lazy jacks.
Raymarine ST60 masthead instruments plus Windex indicator.
Lazyjacks (retracted) make sail handling a breeze.
Blue Sunbrella main sail cover.
150% Genoa: Quantum, 2006, with UV leach protection replace 2013.
Inside sheeting track allows optimum genoa trim to windward--only PDQ32 with this feature.
Self-tacking jib: 1997 with UV leach protection. Seldom used and stored in air conditioned room.
Spinnaker, 2006. Red, White and Blue Asymmetrical Spinnaker with adjustable bow bridle.
Four self-tailing 2-speed cockpit winches (two Harken 32s, and two Lewmar 40s).
Under Genoa, 7 knots. The value of good bridge deck clearance is clear.
Under Genoa, 7 knots. The value of good bridge deck clearance is clear.
Under spinnaker, 7 knots. Smooth.
Hull and Deck Equipment: Big under-bunk lockers!
Vinyl-dipped Dacron trampoline, very secure and comfortable.
Deck cleats (6): one on each bow, one on each transom and one each side of amidships.
Bow fairleads: one on each bow on inboard side for chafe-free mooring.
Transom fairleads: custom line deflectors guide mooring lines under dinghy.
Large deck lockers in each bow for storage of anchoring paraphernalia and misc items.
Large stern lockers for boat gear and cleaning supplies.
Lewmar and Beckson opening hatches: (21).
Swim shower on starboard stern steps
Manson Supreme primary anchor (35 lb.) with 100 feet of 1/4-inch G43 chain and 150 feet of 1/2-inch nylon rode, stainless anchor roller with hawse pipe (starboard).
Lewmar V700 electric windlass (2013) on Port for primary anchor.
Controls at helm for single-handed anchoring. Foot controls at bow.
Fortress FX-16 secondary anchor with chain and nylon rode. Stored in
transom locker for easy deployment in dual-anchor situations.
Two custom anchor bridles with locking chain hooks.
A center cockpit is secure in all weather, rain or shine.
Jacklines make moving on deck safe in all weather.
Harken 8-foot mainsail traveler with 3:1 Harken controls.
6-spoke Whitlock steering wheel.
Padded helm seat.
Fan at helm.
New cockpit canvas, 2012.
Hardtop Bimini including two LED light and 2 x 85 watt solar panel array.
Canvas sheet and storage bags (2).
Removable cedar cockpit sole.
Winch handle pockets (2).
Winch handles (3).
Numerous dock lines (various lengths).
Numerous fenders (various sizes) and fender board
Swim ladder on starboard stern.
Transoms stretched 2 feet in 2014 to provide improved boarding and speed.
With hull extensions, 7.5 knots. a nice smooth wake.
Looking from port cabin, forward into galley. The hanging locker is on the left, near the door. Cabins: Two identical aft cabins are equipped as follows:
Queen-size bed (uses standard queen-sized linens).
Small hanging closet.
Numerous small cabinets.
Reading lights.
Fan.
Salon:
Two Caframo Bora fans.
DVD player and fold-down TV screen with Bose speakers.
Table seats six. Storage in center of table.
Flip-up leaves create two twin berths.
Storage under seats, including removable storage trays.
Screens and storm windows for all opening ports. Covers (canvas or fiberglass) for all windows.
Silica gel vent filter reduces fuel evaporation and water absorption, increasing engine reliability.
Lifeguard vent trap prevents vent over flows.
Tender:
Mercury 3.5 HP 2-stroke engine will built-in fuel tank. Portable 1.5 gallon tank.
9-foot, 2-inch BoatUS inflatable. Hypalon with hard floor, 2002.
Includes composite seat, paddles, anchor, and air pump. New floor 2012,
refurbished 2017.
Dinghy davits with upgraded 6:1 rigging, plus tricing lines and aluminum spreader bar. Two kayaks are easily carried on top of davits.
Anchor (stainless steel Mantus Dinghy) and rode.
A
dinghy and two kayaks are no problem at all. Even with full tanks, the
transoms are still out of the water. The boarding platforms and ladder
(starboard) make for easy access to all of your water toys. Swim
platform shower (door on starboard transom) is great for washing off the
salt. (there is also a hot water shower in the head compartment).
Extended
transoms make for comfortable boarding of the tenders and kayaks. Great
for passengers with mobility limitations and fun for the kids.
Safety Equipment:
Whale bilge pumps (2); shower gulper pump.
Life Sling with rail-mounted soft case.
Full jacklines and dedicated hard points for safety tethers.
Signal horn, flares, etc.
Six life jackets.
Two fire extinguishers.
Lifelines with six gates and stanchions surround the deck.
Miscellaneous:
Magma barbecue grill with on rail attachment and Sunbrella cover.
Mesh slider mosquito screen.
Cleaning supplies: bucket, mops, deck brushes.
Numerous miscellaneous spare parts.
Gasoline jerry cans (5-gallon and 1.5-gallon for tender).
Bike rack for transom rail. Carries standard bikes.
Trolling equipment (fishing), including several Cuban yo-yos and removable mini-outriggers.
Why is she for sale? I wish she wasn't. But I've been sailing for over 30 years and it's time for something different.
The furler had been prone to catching for the past few days. It would roll fairly easily for a bit, then seize, and after a good tug, roll easily again. The bearings in this furler are half-and-half stainless and Torlon, and it seems the Torlon bearings had worn down to where the stainless bearings would ride up over them. Eventually, the wedging force pushed the lower circlip out of its groove and the lower race fell apart, unnoticed. My genoa is a little to long on the luff but still, it sets very well with no halyard tention; in fact, some wieght rests on the tack, just a little, and this held the upper race in position. When I went to re-hoist the sail the the foil was lifted by normal friction in the groove, the top half of the furler was lifted, and everything fell apart.
Back at home, after considerable stress over the great cost of replacement unit, I set about disassembling the furler drive. It is a simple matter: bring the jib and spinnaker halyards forward and tension with winch; place a pad under the boom and release the topping lift - this relieves some tension from the forestay; remove the plastic set screw between the luff extrusion and the drive tube, remove the split aluminum castings, and while supporting the luff extrusion, gently lower until it rests on the turnbuckle - the luff extrusion will slide right through the drive unit; lift both the luff extrusion and the drive unit and place a vice-grip on the flats of the lower end of the forestay wire - this will support these parts and keep the forestay from turning when the turnbuckle is loosened; remove the cotter pins, and loosen and remove the turnbuckle - it was not necessary to loosen the shroud turnbuckles; remove the vise-grips and slide the furler drive off the forestay, while supporting the luff extrusion; replace the vise grips on the flats to hold the luff extrusion in place.
