I like zero-slack in a windward travel car. Fewer tangles.
- Replaced Dyneema portion of both shroud tensioners. The factory version was 5/32-inch Dyneema, certain to fail after about 10 years in the sun. I upgraded to 1/4-inch, which should remain about required WLL for 20 years. Four bury splices required.
- Whipped cover over tail of Spectra/Spectra furler line to improve grip both in hands and jammer.
- Swapped the junk pivoting fluke anchor for a 12-pound Northhill. I took a spare rode and spliced that to the chain I had, since the chain, shackle, and rode on the junk anchor were... junk. The nice thing about the Northill is that it is about the only non-pivoting fluke anchor that will fit in the locker, because it also folds down; they were originally designed for seaplanes.
- Replaced ordinary deck screws used to secure aka load pad by PO with stainless. A missing pad can result in considerable damage with these boats.
- Climbed mast and reconed instruments.
- Installed new wind indicator(Windex).
- Replaced broken lever on port jammer (partner did that).
- Tried loosening screws on broken bow sprit pivot. Due to lack of Tefgel, this was a failure (ended up just grinding them flush).
- Rerouted furler line to eliminate chafe. Added new fairlead.
- Went sailing.
battery is no good. It was 11.7V when I got there, and after 5 hours
at ~ 8A it was 11.9V. This is a classic indicator of one bad cell.
- Checked motor charging. The voltage increased 0.2-0.3V when it was running, depending on RPMs. This is also typical of a battery with a bad cell. The motor charges about 4A at WOT.
- One of the fire extinguishers was bad. The other is fine and we only need one.
- Serviced all four winches. The two-speeds were a little gummed-up, but the jib winches were nearly dry and have suffered some wear from this abuse. I suspect they have not been serviced in >10-years, perhaps never. They now have Lewmar grease, new springs, and two have new palls.
- Replaced the rubber washers on the beam clamps. They a were completely shot, and damage to the fiberglass was beginning.
- Bowsprit repair finished.I really like the way it came out. If you adjust the bobstay tension in synchronization with the up-haul line, the butt of the pole is very nicely nestled in the polyethylene saddle. Better than factory. I was not able to get the screws out, so I ground them flush and tapped 3 new 1/4 x 20 bolts in the neutral axis. Very strong.
- Installed 3/32" FRP liner in the bottom of the anchor locker to protect against bangs.
- Fabricated anchoring bridle, complete with all hardware, in the anchor locker (blue climbing rope).
- Replace the missing twist locks in the cockpit.Took the bags at home and will give them a quick re-vamp (a few stitiches and some elastic).
- Installed two 1/4" threaded studs in the starboard cockpit locker. I will make up a row of hooks tomorrow ind install that in a few days. That will take care of the PFDs, fenders, and rope coils.
- Fixed traveler... I believe. I converted it to 3:1, played with the slack, and spliced the ends. It seems jam-proof now. The original system was unusable.
- I put a smaller pin on lanyard on the beam locks. The big pin is better for trailing, but it's a battle until we fix the alignment. I wonder if we need to look at the adjustment of the x-cables under the tramp. This may be part of the problem.
- I will be fabricating a topper for the storage bin forward of the sink. Also a drop-in bag.
- Fixed the paper towel holder.
The bar mounting the hooks is mounted to two studs (black knobs) and is removable.
- Repaired one cockpit bag. The other was badly fitted by the PO and is going home for alterations.
- Storage hooks installed in the starboard cockpit locker. (the locker had no floor and is how you crawl under the cockpit). All of the PFDs, ropes, and fenders are now hanging in easy order, and there is some remaining room. The whole works can be removed by unscrewing two knobs. I'm gotta write this up a DIY idea.
- Installed counter topper. I took it home for more varnish. It's going to make a good "catch-all" spot.
- Primed and tested the water pump. Fixed some minor leaks, so it is good to go.
- Cleaned some, removed some rust stains. C
- Cleaned/lubed the stove. Works better now.
- Added a backing plate for the anchor well padeye. There was none, and if the boat had come back hard on the line, the eye would have pulled out.
- I added a whipping twine marking to the centerboard lines. The whipping is be 1-2" below the cleat when in correct position.
- I added low friction rings to the ama end of the barber hauler lines. This makes it easier to adjust the under load. In a breeze, using the sheet winch can help. Sewn eyes.
- I refurbished the masthead inst. a bit. Cleaned and lubed bearings, replace vane and wheel.
Counter topper, not dissimilar from the one on my PDQ. In this case I secured it with a pin, since the top was a useful cutting board I did not wish to eliminate.
- Cleaned the entire hull lining with Formula B and a upholstery extractor. The stains came out.
- Solar charging. 50 watts and a charge controller.
- A fan and USB charger.
- Boom outhaul revised.
- Sail repair. Three spare sails repaired.
- New o-rings in crash tank hatches.
- Mini-dodger designed (watch Good Old Boat for this one).
- Mini-tramps to block the holes where your leg can go through.
- Repaired Autohelm power plug.
Mini-Dodger partial mock-up. Enough to keep the rain out, with minimal weight and windage, and stores flat under a mattress. It's going to be so slick!
And there will be more...
- Crack in the hull liner.
- rebedding deck fittings.
- Storage in amas.
- Play in tiller (shims in kick-up mechanism.
And yet compared to the PDQ, the projects are individually smaller, cheaper, and less daunting.