A Few More PDQ Tweaks

rev. 8-1-2013

Spreader. A few weeks ago, while sailing in brisk conditions, the spreader attaching the bow of my tender to the davits snapped; plastic in a place where metal made more sense. I made a replacement from some 1" x 1" x 1/8" wall aluminum square tube that I had in the "might need" pile. I'm much happier with this, and that if it ever does fail, it will bend rather than break. It is also lighter.

I added very heavy wear pads; they are of a reinforced canvas product, many times thicker than the tubes, and are glued on with 3M 5200. I did not drill the center of the spreader; there is a small aluminum strap intended only to center a spectra sling. I also trice-up the dingy when snow season comes; a pair of 25-foot x 3/8" docklines go from the davit cleat, through the welded eye at the tip of the davit, under the dingy cross-wise, and up to the davit cleat at the other end.

Yamaha Seat Belt. All PDQ owners know the story; at some point the lock-down mechanism fails and different method of hold-down is needed. In a prior post (I Hate Yamaha) I described my battlefield solution. Back home, I made something more permanent from a truck strap and some climbing webbing. So far I am happy with it, though I may devise something more elegant next time I haul out. Or I may stay with this simple, sturdy solution.

(3-5-2012 the hold down latch on the port engine seized. Fortunately, when I made the strap and fittings for the starboard engine I made another for the port engine and installed the required fittings.) 

The cracks in the cowling were caused by me falling on it a different day; they have bee repaired on the inside. There is a FRP block secured with caulking and a rope pad eye (2 holes and knots on the ends of the rope) at the aft end to protect the plastic (not FRP) in this area and to keep the strap centered.

Salon Pilot Berth. The salon table, like may cruising boats, can be lowered and made into a berth. King size on the PDQ! Often it is the coolest place to sleep. Sometime I simply want a good place to crash, closer to the helm. Unfortunately, lowering the table requires clearing the table, retrieving cushions from under the port sleep berth, and raising and lowering the table itself can be physical, if it sticks. I pulled my back badly this summer fooling with it in a swell. So I created a pilot birth from a simple leaf and some foam scraps. This pilot berth is also VERY comfortable for lounging and watching movies. It can be rigged in seconds.

I removed the cleat that the table edge rests on (when lowered into a bed) and replaced it with a leaf on a piano hinge. The cushion is covered with two pillowcases joined with Velcro, so very limited sewing was required. When not in use as a mattress extension, it serves as a bolster in the starboard berth. The leaf is supported by the helm foot rest box, which is a perfect fit.

rev. 8-1-2013 I later replaced this board with one 13.5 inches wide, reaching nearly to the floor. The narrower board would allow the filler cushion to slide off sometimes, where the wider board does not.

Table Storage. Accessing the table storage always required clearing the table. Small items could roll off the table in rough waters. The solution: a tray with fiddles and a panel on the bottom (not shown) that just fits the opening. Access is a simple matter of lifting off the tray, and the tray cannot slide. (note: I stole and then adapted this idea from another PDQ owner with a different table design)

Nothing earth shattering, just a few ideas to make cruising easier. About $20.00 was spent on all of these projects together, mostly on the hinge and a spectra sling. I like making something from nothing. Having a big "might need" pile helps.

Retribution

On the Chesapeake, even though fishermen trolling have no navigational right-of-way, I've noticed that most sailors are polite and don't demand rights on the open water where trolling is common. Everyone gives your transom wide berth, recognizing you have gear in the water as much as 300 feet back.

25 years ago, when I had a Prindle 16 catamaran (no engine) I was trolling for bluefish on the lower Potomac, when a waterski boat decided it would be funny to do a loop around my boat, quite close. Suddenly, one the reels started to scream, all the line ran out, and it broke off at the spool - unusual, because line generally breaks at the lure end, but I didn't think much about it.

I had already caught one good fish, the skier expereince had bummed me out, and so I stopped fishing and just sailed for a few more hours, wandering my way back to the launch ramp. I de-rigged my boat, secured it on the trailer, and then noticed that the ski boat was back on its trailer too, a swarm of guys hovering around stern drive. It had been towed in.

I wandered over, curious - morbidly - to hear what misfortune had befallen the JERKS when I saw a something familiar. My lure, a 12-inch hose eel, was hanging from his drive. It seems the wire leader had cut through the oil seal, the lube had run out, and in several hours of hard running, he had fried his stern drive.

I walked over, cut my lure free with a multi-tool I had in my pocket, and thanked him from returning my lure. I left for home, directly.

Unsinkable

Every few months I see a picture of a multihull sinking. This should never happen, not with a few crash tanks, bulkheads, and no ballast.

Yes, there are heavy things in there like diesels, but there is also foam core and empty tanks.

The PDQ 32, on the other hand, is quite unsinkable. I had a through-hull failure once and it didn't even get the floor boards wet.

[the load waterline is on the lower edge of the boot top stripe]

With 2 crash tanks forward, one aft, and two bulkheads, you simply can't tear a big enough hole.

I know what it is. People don't want the cabin space chopped-up by walls. Their funeral.

------

As for my F-24, it is easily supported by the amas and the beams, no crash tanks required. No worries. But I would add them anyway, if I were sailing far. I'd seal off most of the space under the V-berth and under the cockpit. A day's work for peace of mind, and no new access problems.

Hinges

I don't know why PDQ left hinges off the locker covers. They didn't cheap-out much. But they missed this one. Every time you need just one little thing, off comes the cushion, the lid must be leaned somewhere.... A big pain. With a hinge, lifting the lid just a bit to snag just one thing is reasonable.

Six months after I added them I noticed that the new Gemini Legacy is set up this way. Some thing they got right.

I added hinges to my under-berth lockers some time ago, and it was a big improvement. They get used a lot more.

I added these drop-in trays to the salon lockers. A big help--commonly used and small items don't disappear into dark corners.

And now I've added hinges to the salon lockers. A big help.

Notes:

• I didn't bother with the corner lockers (they won't open properly because of the backrests) or the cover over the charger.
• I didn't bother with stainless hinges. I did oil them lightly (Corr-Block) and I haven't seen any signs of rust. It's a dry cabin.

Use it up, wear it out...

Rev. 8-14-2024

... make it do, or do without.

I love projects put together from the left-overs pile.

This boat hook and fishing rod holder was cobbled together for nothing from some scraps of line and a
heavy aluminum channel that used to reinforce the inside of a fuel oil tanker. A few minutes with a port-a-band, grinder, and drill press made for a holder that should outlive the boat. Most of the time I simply through the hooks on the tramp, and they've stayed there in near-gale conditions though bouncing quite a lot, but sometimes it still seems worthwhile to tame them a bit, or simply to give them a proper place.

Like wise this chain lock came from scrap channel.


My pilot berth came from a leftover shelf.

My kayak tie-off points were purchased bolt hangers, sure enough, but at only $2.75 each and the bolts were salvaged from shaft zincs found lying in the yard, since I don't have shaft zincs on outboards.

This immensely strong genoa sheet came with the boat. Must have, since Kevlar core went out of fashion some years ago... for good reasons. Kevlar will fail from fatigue far below its rated strength if bent to sharply or flexed to often. I have used Kevlar core halyards for many years without trouble; they are sized for stretch not strength, they pass over long radius wire rope blocks, and there is little motion. However, when used as a genoa sheet at high load, secured to the clew with a cow hitch, and occasionally allowed to flog while furling, the fibers crack. In a 15 knot breeze the core let go, leaving only the badly sunburned sheath to carry the load. How it came to fail internally without snapping completely is something of a misery to me; just the right combination of winds and flogging such that it gave up from fatigue when the load was not actually great. I cut the line at the failure and sailed home with bowlines; after all, it's not worn out yet.

Note the thin spot to the left--the core is failed and bunched up to the right. The failure was right at the tack, where the rope exited the knot. This is NOT the highest stress location in the knot, that is always the first turn. It was the harsh flexing while flogging that did it.

This sheet--and a second genoa sheet for my new inside track--came from discarded halyards in the marina recycle bin.

This tablet holder was cobbled together in an hour from the might-need pile. very light and a better fit than anything I could find on the web; custom for my tablet.

• 2-ball joint mount from my first car phone (before pocket cell phones, before I got married) about 25 years ago. When I sold the car I kept it, thinking it might make a good GPS mount. A good solid annodized aluminum model.
• 4mm water proof glued plywood scrap.
• Scrap aluminum angle. Just the right depth.
• White spray paint left over from the kitchen remodel (repainted all the hinges).
• Assorted saved screws and machine screws.

My electronics are comically out of date but the they work and I'd be satisfied with map and compass. That's how I learned.

At first glance, without my glasses, this WW II poster bothered me.

I've certainly restitched the dodger and sail cover a few times each.

I've never bought line for a bridle or snubber; there is always some retired anchor rode. Same for dock lines; I either splice some up or... I've found there are folks that will throw away barely used lines if one of the matching set gets rubbed.

My dingy under-the seat-box is a milk crate. Takes the strain off the tubes, holds a few things, never rusts, and was found on a beach.


Towels and the like come from home cast offs. If I use one to mop out the bilge, no one cares.

And then there are a thoughts that fall under the general heading "Cheap Boat Keeping."

Most of use would rather put money in our 401-K or the kids' college fund than pour it in the water. I spread my maintenance funds thin as paint, using every trick I've learned over the years. It helps that my dad is a painter (watercolor artist, but also a house painter in college), my grandfather was a mechanic, and I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked around chemical plants for years. Perhaps some of these ideas will be of use to others.

1. Use your engine. Never let it sit for over a month in the winter; the lube needs to circulate and the electrics need to dry. Run it enough in the summer to turn the fuel over a few times each season; we change the oil twice each year, so why would we expect the gasoline to last longer? Engines don't wear-out so much as deteriorate from disuse. I've done lots of fuel testing in my "real" job, so I'm neither quoting from a book nor guessing.
2. Cleanout every locker twice each year. You'll find stuff and reduce repeat buying. You'll gain space and stow things smarter. You'll save weight and clutter by pitching old rubbish or at least taking it home. It will remind you to maintain a few things. Remember, carrying junk costs $20/pound.
3. Save bits and pieces of materials. Some aluminum or FRP plate, a bit of stainless tubing, some left over wire, scraps of good wood, a bit of gasket material, and leftover old fasteners; never old junk parts, but bits that might be found in a hardware store or West Marine. Keep it neat.
4. Learn sail repair (hand work). A stitch in time saves nine. Really.
5. Find a good thrift store, one that carries some marine stuff but doesn't realize it. Small towns near the water. Also a great source for Gore-Tex foul weather gear; mostly the sorters don't know the difference between a worthless windbreaker and the real deal.
6. Stay at a working marina. Often 1/3 the price of a recreational marina.  Also look for houses with a few unused slips out back, or maybe a rusted up marine railway.
7. Use a good 2-year bottom paint.
8. Learn painting and composite repair. Really, you can be very efficient with these things, given the proper tools and some practice. I figure I save a good $100/hour pre-tax; I've learned speed and quality over the years.
9. Get a book book on marine wiring. Buy a good ratchet crimper. I'm an engineer by trade, which is a good start. However, even if you only apply your knowledge to troubleshooting, it's a blessing when somewhere remote. Do professional quality work the first time or you'll lose reliability, endanger your boat when you're away, and mostly do it over some day.
10. Anchor out. Even if it means adding solar and upgrading a few things, you can save $50-$150 per night. Enjoying increased freedom is priceless.
11. Waterproof grease. Electrical connections and anything that comes apart. Teflon pipe dope is good too, particularly where aluminum meets stainless.
12. Watch chafe and wear. Lines--running and mooring--can last for many years if you don't let them rub or slap.
13. Stay in the water all winter. Of course, this depends on the area--not practical in the Great Lakes--but for most of us it's a great saver. The season can be stretched, and the boat suffers less disuse, the hauling and storage fees go away.  You will need a good 2-year paint.
14. Learn small engine repair. They're really simple. Even if all you learn to do is change plugs, rebuild a carburetor, and change the impeller, there's real savings and less chance of being stranded. You'll need some tools and parts, of course.
15. Fish! It's free and nothing is better.

In 25 years of boat ownership, I've only used contractor services for:

• Major sail work and new canvas.
• Hauling. But I do the painting and hull work!
  

As a result, I know my boat inside out; that's a good feeling and an important part of seamanship.

Keeping a Cruising Boat for Peanuts--Table of Contents

Keeping a Cruising Boat on Peanuts…

… or How to Maintain Her for Embarrassingly Little.

Table of Contents     

Acknowledgments                                                                                                                                          4

Preface                                                                                                                                                         8

            Chapter 1: Overhead                                                                                             10

Chapter 2: Value                                                                                                    16

Chapter 3: Maintaining What You’ve Got                                                               19

Chapter 4: Getting Stuff Cheap                                                                              42

Chapter 5: Shaving Weight                                                                                     55

Chapter 6: Getting it Done                                                                                      63

Chapter 7: Cruising Cheap                                                                                     89

Chapter 8: Kids                                                                                                     101

Chapter 9: Whose Beach is it Anyway?                                                                  104

Chapter 10: Summer Heat                                                                                      107

Chapter 11: Winter                                                                                                 109

Chapter 12: How to Fall Out of Love With Your Boat                                             117

Summary                                                                                                                            119

                                                                ___________________

Glossary                                                                                                                             120

Appendix I:         The End of Season Routine; Survey and Winterizing                                  122

Appendix II:       Low Dollar Projects                                                                                  133

Appendix IIa. On Deck                                                                                          136

1.       Re-glazing Opening Hatch

2.       Snap-On Canvas Hatch Covers

3.       Fiberglass Hatch Covers

4.       Restoring Aged Vinyl Windows

5.       Repairing Torn or cracked Vinyl Windows

6.       Renovating a Lifesling2 Cover

7.       Unbreakable Wind Vane

8.       Boat Hook Brackets

9.       Chain Lock

10.    Lifeline Gate for Pennies

11.    High Lifelines

12.    Climbing Gear

13.    Jacklines

14.    DIY Fender Board

15.    Sheet Bags from Shoe Bags.

16.    Runt Steps

17.    Rot-Proofing Wood  with Glycol Borate

18.    Painting Phifertex

19.    Marking Chain

20.    Rope to Chain Splice

Appendix IIb. Sails and Rigging                                                                           201                        

21.    Sail Re-Cutting.

22.    Stiffer Battens

23.    No-Sew Sail and Canvas Repair

24.    Stitching Rope and Webbing

25.    Strops

26.    Soft Shackles

27.    Snap Stretchers

28.    Traveler and Furler Bearings. 

29.    Re-Thread Furler PS 2-2016

Appendix IIc. In the Cabin                                                                                 250

30.    Storage Trays

31.    Salon Pilot Berth

32.    Pipe Berths

33.    Cloth Selves

34.    Counter Guards

35.    Discount AC (Fans)

36.    Bathroom Fan

37.    Storm Windows

38.    Salted Varnish

Appendix IId. Hull and Bottom                                                                           266

39.    Transoms Extension

40.    Keel Fairing and Extension

41.    Rudder Straightening

Appendix IIe. Systems                                                                                        292

42.    Holding Tank Vent Filter

43.    Gasoline and Diesel Tank Vent Filter

44.    Water Treatment

45.    Rainwater Collection

46.    Rigid Solar Panels

47.    Semi-Flexible Solar Panels

48.    Heating

49.    Air Conditioning

Appendix IIf.  Assorted                                                                                     353

50.    Glue-On Mountings

51.    Sealing the Core

52.    Bolts and Backing plates

53.    Re-Hooking Lures

54.    Boot Drier

55.    Curing Oven for Polyurethane

56.    Fender Washers—Basically Useless

57.    Finishing Bench

58.    Sea Chest

59.    Fire Blanket

Appendix III: Falling From the Mast—A Catalog of Errors                                             377

Appendix IV: Climbing the Mast, Ladders, and Falling                                                    382

Appendix V: Preparing a Boat for Sale                                                                           390

Appendix VI: A Sample Budget                                                                                     396

Runt Steps

As near as I can tell, the helm of my boat was intended for a 7'4" helmsman. That's how I see it.

Our delivery trip included bashing up the Chesapeake in gale conditions (35 knots but not too many waves as the fetch was minimal); a harsh way to get to know your boat. It didn't take long to realize that my feet were 6 inches from the floor and that every time I turned the wheel left my body would rotate right. The following week I built a simple a runt box. It was a temporary affair that worked well enough that I didn't revisit the subject for four years. Other PDQ sailors have similar runt boxes. It has become the standard cure.

I often cruise the cast-off piles at local marinas. A few years ago a Prout owner threw out a heavy 3/4-inch floor section of mahogany/holly laminate; solid wood in alternating strips. Nothing wrong for the most part, but there was  split and some damaged edges. I took it home for the scrap heap. I've cut a few projects from it.

I cruise blogs, often seeing projects that spawn other ideas. An interior nav station project made me think of this. About 2 hours labor to trim to size, finish, through-bolt in some mahogany cleats for it to rest upon, and caulk into place with polyurethane.

I think it turned out very well, indistinguishable from a factory effort, perhaps better.

• Better footing that the box since it cannot shift
• Nothing can fall behind it
• An inch higher and a little wider
• More storage space

The non-slip finish is an experiment, based upon a post by Windborne. The last coat of varnish is laid on thick and sprinkled with course-grained salt from a grinder. When dry, the salt is washed away leaving a non-aggressive non-skid finish and is easy and easily redone when worn. Not for steps or other critical high-impact areas, but it look better than sand-varnish, is simpler, and is more simply redone. So far I like it.

Epilogue: The old runt box has not been retired. It is a member of the crew and serves too many other purposes, among other things, supporting the pilot berth. It will retain a well-earned rank of honor.

The F-24 To-Do List Goes On

She's getting better, no question about it. The sail controls are getting slick and the cabin is getting better, but there are miles to go. It's a boat.

Anchoring

• Shorten the chain to 6 feet of switch to 1/4-inch, and add a webbing/Dyneema chafe leader. Shes a fast boat, and the 30 feet of 5/16-inch chain on the primary anchor makes no sense for a boat who's storm rode tension is perhaps 800 pounds. The chafe leader (see Practical Sailor magazine for the details) will prevent cutting, and catenary doesn't mean much to me since it is mostly a day sailor and we always anchor in shallow water (lots of scope).

Cabin

• Fitted sheet for V-berth.
• Testing dehumidifier, but we might switch this for solar ventilation. Although the Formual B removed the mildew, there is constant condensation due to poor air movement and a wet bilge. 
• Fix centerboard leak. When sailing hard water comes out the top and into the bilge and cushions.
• Mini-dodger Mark II. This has worked out very well. I'm talking to Outland Hatch Covers about a production version, just for fun. The Mark II needs a little better sealing (Mark III in the works), and you will see it in Good Old Boat Magazine in the future. 
• Replace incandescent bulbs with LEDs.

Cockpit

• Add two alloy bicycle water bottle cages. While not perfect cup holders, they are unbreakable, easily mount to railings, and hold beer and water bottles very well. 
• Tarp for rainy weather and sun. It will fit over the boom and attach to the mast, topping lift, shrouds (these are far out on a tri) and a pair of posts aft. I had something like this on my Stiletto, and it was handy.
• Guides to support tiller extension when tacking/jibing short handed. On a beach cat you could always just toss it in the water, but on the F-24 it tends to snag on stuff. Laying it on the stern rail seems to work, but it needs a pair of guides to keep it out of mischief.

Rigging

• Possible barber hauler/traveler for reacher. Still to work that out.
• Longer bobstay for using reacher on bowsprit. The PO has it attached to the wrong bow eye. Gotta love POs and the stuff they break because they don't read the manual!!
• Add starboard fairlead for reacher. Probably lash-on a low friction ring.
• Swap jibs and repair. I fixed rips in on the the mains and one of the jibs, and the one that is currently in place is showing signs of delaminating in a few spots. It has a nice shape, points high, and I think it can be repaired. We have two spare mains and a spare jib, all with good shape. I'm trying to make this inventory last 5 years, with Dr. Sails and tape. We'll see.

 Other things can work, but Dr. Sails rules for both polyester and laminate sails.

Electronics and Lighting

• Tiller pilot  wind vane interface. Honestly, this is low on my list. The magnetic functions work fine and I think this boat is too quick for the pilot to work well to windward. I think it is just mast base wiring, since the instruments and the remote work.
• Anchor and stern light. The boat does not have a separate steaming light, but it does have a masthead LED light with 6 segments and 6 wires. I think they light according to the switch settings. For now, I have an LED lantern and I don't intend to over-night until spring (the nights are too long in the winter).

Other

• Storage in amas. I'm going to add a couple of studs (Duck Works Boat Builder's Supply--I love the web site, even if much or it does not apply) and use those to add a row of hooks and fishing pole holders. In a small boat, smart storage is paramount.
• Shim rudder. The kick-up mechanism has some play. More aesthetic than important.

Head. There is a only a portable toilet. I will be investigating what chemical are best (for a portable--this may be different from holding tanks) and whether a vent (carbon filter inside cabin?) can help. There is only so much you can do. The head is in the cabin, with no separate compartment; if cruising with more than one person, it will need to go in the cockpit at night.


The list is getting shorter and cheaper. Of course, it will never disappear, not unless my imagination fails. The goal with this boat is to make her into a fast, fun day sailor with cruising potential. She will need to be kept light (lose the chain, use low friction rings where I can, move towards Dyneema, and limit the junk growth) and the running rigging should favor a racer's point of view. Even if you are not a racer, a light boat is safer if adjustments are fast and easy. As for comfort, it will be more "camping in comfort" than cruising, I think. Cleanliness and smart storage will help.