5-26-2017, rev. 8-23-2024
This will be a weekly feature for the next five months. I figure a goal will keep the pressure on.
I think of this as an adjunct to my book "Keeping a Cruising Book for Peanuts," although certainly there is some overlap. I've tested a lot of stuff. Many of these items were mentioned in some prior post--use the search function to find more information.
While you're at it, subscribe to Practical Sailor Magazine. The product descriptions are better, there are comparisons and options, and the test methods are explained. They research stuff I avoid, like electronics. One good find--or bad purchase avoided--and it'll be the smartest $39.94 you'll ever spend.
- Shoes
- Chalk for fingers
- Crampons and boots
- Ice axes
- Gloves
- Glove
- Cleats
- Shoes and cleats
- Padded gloves
- Padded shorts
The same goes for the deck. Designers like graceful curves, but they can be treacherous. One bad fall, resulting in serious injury, could erase all the fun of a 30-year sailing career in an instant. And a good sticky deck makes sailing more fun.
16. Salted Varnish. One of the most traditional non-skid finishes is simple sand or some other grit deposited onto still-wet paint. The problem is that the grit comes loose, is rough on clothes, and is tough to sand off to refinish. You can achieve nearly as effective a non-skid surface with salt. When it is time for the last coat, mask it off (leaving the the edges shiny looks neat), lay on an extra heavy coating, and then sprinkle liberally with coarse salt. A grinder works well. You can't really over do it. The salt will create a rough surface after it dissolves. There is no effect on color or longevity, and it sands off easily for recoating. And it's free.
However, this is not a very aggressive non-skid. It's perfect for cabin soles and places where looks matter, but not for heeling decks, steps, and critical areas. For those, there are better products.
17. 3M Grip Tape. Where grip really matters--the edges of steps and on steep slopes--there is no substitute for the aggressive grip of 3M Safety Walk 600. I wouldn't use this where people sit--it will grind their pants off--but it's saved countless falls. Expensive, but durable and much cheaper than hospital bills. A roll is expensive, but maybe you can find someone to split it with. I got a leftover roll from a trucking company; they considered it a trivial left over after their annual fleet maintenance, but for me, it was plenty.
18. Kiwi Grip. When the molded-in texture fails and the grip could really use a little refinishing. Kiwi Grip has repeatedly been ranked number one by Practical Sailor and other sailing magazines, and user experiences have been very positive. Mix well, apply with special roller, and expect ten to twenty years of good service, depending on use (you may need to touch up high wear areas, but that is easy). The non-skid on my PDQ 32 is very similar (gelcoat applied with the same roller giving the same finish) and I really like it. It is also easier to clean than molded non-skid.
19. Gill Race Trainer. Yup, I had to throw in my favorite shoe. I like solid shoes that give grip, all-day support, and toe protection. I've been a Sperry Harbormaster fan for decades, but every two-three years they would gradually go slick, and by the fourth years they were about as secure as a pair of sock. I could literally slide off the deck while standing still at the slip on my foredeck.
Three years ago I was introduced to Gill Race Trainers ($130). They are similar to the Harbor Masters. Though a little less sportive, they are good for a walk around town and fine around the marina. They drain quickly, are cool in the summer, and worn with Gill Waterproof Socks ($45), are warm down to freezing in the winter. And best yet, . I also wear Choco sandals ($110) in very hot weather and Vibram 5-Fingers in my kayak, but deck shoes are the work horse, summer and winter.
20. Cleaning the Non-Skid. The problem, invariably, is algae and lichen, not just dirt. These organism put down roots, and the easier way to break them loose is to kill them first. In a few days to a few weeks, they lose their grip and come off easily, often with the rain. You can try to remove them more immediately with scrubbing and remove the stains with bleach, but it's hard work and they will come back sooner, since the roots aren't dead. Instead, hit them with an algaecide containing benzalkonium chloride, and come back later, either a few hours (good) or next week (better). Then scrub with any deck soap. It will come much cleaner with less work.
Also drill brush kits, such as by Holkime. The rotary motion really helps clean the ramdom groves of non-skid.
And that is how I keep from sliding around. Pretty cheap, 3M tape excepted.
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