I've written about this for Good Old Boat and Practical Sailor, but I still get a lot of questions.
My F-24 came with pin-slide cars and an out-hauler. As long as the sail was fully deployed, this worked adequately, though occasionally a little more leach tension was desirable. When the jib was roller reefed, however, the car needed to be run all the way forward, which wasn't a lot of fun when the conditions were rough enough to require it. Lots of spray and flogging.
Converting to 3D leads was simple.
- The car is set most of the way back, to the full sail, windward sailing setting.
- A bulls eye bushing was fitted to an odd car I found in the free cycle bin. It was originally used to mount a ladder on the rail, but by cutting away the end and fitting a bushing, it became a low profile block. However, any car that you can attach a pulley or low friction ring to would work. The forward track hold down bolt could be replaced with an eye bolt. Many possibilities. The main thing is to have at least 2:1 purchase so that it can be adjusted under some load, though not necessarily full load.
- A climbing rap ring is used as a sheet guide. They are nice because there is plenty of room inside for all the lines. But a low friction ring or sailing ring could work.
- Cam cleats for both tails.
- I spliced the tails into a continuous line. This reduces tangles and makes it easy to sort out. When one is in the other is out, so it reduces the tail clutter in the cockpit. But they could be separate.
- The line is bare Dyneema single braid for low friction. The tails are covered with polyester to make them large enough to handle and so they will hold well in cam cleats. I used Samson XLS and disposed of the core, after using it to pull the Dyneema through.
The new system allows lead adjustments in just a few seconds to any position. Small wonder all of the sport boats do it this way now, right on up to about 50 feet.
Jib hauled out when reaching deep
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