Working Marinas

At Phipps Marina people don't

• Wax boats
• Fly burgees
• Compare rating certificates
• Wear uniform polos and shorts
• Replace lines because they are--gasp--dirty
• Talk about racing
• Strut anything new
• Drive BMWs

Instead they

• Clean fish
• Saw, nail, and paint wood. Sometimes the smell of Coprinol lingers for months. It's different from the smell of varnish, I wouldn't want it on my boat, but I like it around. Something like the smell of freshly mowed grass, to me.
• Talk about years spent in the Merchant Marine
• Bring the kids along
• Work on engines
• Share information about WHERE and HOW to catch fish... and then catch them, without any teasing for striking out.
• Drive pick-up trucks 

I exaggerate, of course. Of the 16 slips, 4 are sailboats, soon to be 5. Most of the boats are in fine condition; they just tend to be traditional and utilitarian. A few charter. It's hard to convince anyone that there's much practical about a sailboat, not in a fishing marina, although the day I slapped a pair of 30-inch rockfish on the communal cleaning table I bridged some of the sailor-fisherman gap. We talk boats and fish more easily now.

Four generations of waterman--that I know of--have lived and worked on this property. I like it here.

                                      -  -   -   - 

Marine railways aren't so common anymore; travel lifts have taken over and for good reasons. However, the railway is still in regular use, perfect for wooden boats that can't--or shouldn't--stand the stress of lifting with only 2 slings. Planks are fitted in the old ways and aging hulls refastened. Workboats, always; never a sailboat.

Wind Vanes

rev. 4-1-2013

Warning: if you sail a mono-hull, none of this will make sense. Pointy bows and all that.

It seems with every boat it's taken several years to get a bow wind vane just right, to suit my tastes. Such a simple thing. I always have to break a few. I suppose I could be satisfied with a masthead fly, but I hate looking straight up--hard on the neck too--and I like watching the set of the jib at the same time; it's more important, after all. I should also add that I like a fly on deck primarily for jibes, more particularly when the spinnaker is up. Up-wind I watch the jib, but when jibing the chute gives no clear wind indication, and it's a help to a new helmsman; he can keep his head in the boat and not stare upwards like some disconnected mystic.

Prindle 16. I tried a few styles but settled on a Telo Cat vane that hung just below the jib bridle. It was sturdy enough to withstand trailering, was out of the way of the jib sheets, and since it was also below the bowsprit, it was protected from the spinnaker sheets.

Stiletto. The location just below the bridle was out: the jib was a hank-on and would hit it when lowered and there was no bowsprit to guard it from the spinnaker sheets. We settled on a conventional fly on the port bow; it was beyond the reach of the jib sheets, and because we did inside jibes with the chute, safe from spinnaker sheets. We did break it every 5 years or so, generally anchoring or such, since it was only a few inches from the bow cleat.

PDQ 32. I started out with the conventional fly on the port bow railing; I had 2 from yard sales and I liked the location. Unfortunately, we do outside jibes with the PDQ. Scratch 2 vanes (including a few repairs) within  a year. We even had a provision to rotate it out of the way when jibing, which of course defeated the whole purpose.

I tried yarn on the remaining stump of the vane. Better, but I broke the stump off and should have, by all rights, torn the chute several times.

So I invented the 5-minute flexible mount shown here. It's been in service for 6 years with no failures, took only 10 minutes to make 4 (2 spares), and consumed nothing but scraps.

• The top is 8 inches of fiberglass tent pole from a wrecked tent.
• The flex is 3 inches of polyethylene 1/4-inch ID airbrake tubing. Just a good press fit.
• The bottom is another short bit of tent pole and some cable ties.
• The yarn is... yarn. Acrylic stays dry and thus flies better than wool. Dark colors are best.

Just smooth all of the cuts with a grinder and  push it together. The tent poles are NOT pushed in very far; there are 2 inches of empty tubing that is free to bend. Make some extras, in case you do manage to break something.

I also keep yarn on the shrouds; it's personal tradition, not function. The airflow is messed up by the cabin and I seldom look at them.

Soft Shackles, Stropes, and Square Riggers

Amsteel and other high-tech lines have made crazy things practical...

• All-fiber standing rigging
• Fiber lifelines
• Safer jacklines
• Fiber shackles

 ... except now that I think about it, none of this is completely new. It's where we started, when the first sailor decided to raise a few sticks and a woven mat above his raft to save paddling home. Clearly, we've improved on those early efforts. First, we used tarred steel, and then stainless steel. Heavier and more expensive, but durable and non-stretch with great abrasion resistance. But we couldn't leave it alone. I'm glad.

Traditional spliced strope with wall knot stopper

One of the biggest trends we've seen in the past 50 years is away from things that can be made to things that must be purchased. Given the steady decline in the basic shop skills of the average sailor and the increase in the complexity of our world, this trend is unstopable. But I try. Many of us try, and that is one of the great attractions of Amsteel; that a DIY sailor can replace purchased rigging services and create something better. I like that too.


Soft Shackles. A cool little invention: the only thing is the idea is about 200 years old on boats, and as old as ropes in general. Every pre-teen girl learned to tie these when braiding friendship bracelets. Every old salt learned to tie a strop with a splice and a turkshead; They are strong, cheap, and won't jam if loaded sharply. I've seen them used to arrest cannon. Rather similar, I think.

Still a good idea today. When made from Amsteel...

• As strong as steel
• Won't scratch the gel coat
• Light
• Cheap
• Quiet
• No tools required to install of remove

Colligo Marine style soft shackle above.
Kolohov style shackle, below.

Not Difficult to make, just a diamond knot and a 12-strand splice, which has the nifty trait of sliding open and closed. 

I learned of the old style strop from The New Glenans Sailing Manual over 20 years ago. There they were recommended as a means of attaching jib sheets on a dingy that was releasable and not likely to draw blood when changing a flogging sail. However, their method was simpler, taking only seconds to make, a minute if you're meticulous. The instructions, below, are for 1/8" line, but it will work in any size; I've made them up to 1/2" line, which will hold over 8,000 pounds  (the line is doubled).

• Cut and seal a 12-inch length of 1/8-inch line. This can be longer, much longer, if a longer strop is needed.
• Double the line and tie an overhand loop near the bend, with the loop just large enough to pass a double overhand loop on doubled line without having to force it. Tighten by hand and with a fid in the loop.
• Tie a double overhand loop near the end of the loop. Leave enough tail to help pull the knot through.

For frequent use the eye is easier to thread if the loop is spliced and thus the tail is only a single strand. Often I use only the cover or core of a line (single braid), as it is soft, super easy to splice, and generally free (throw-aways, from core or cover stripping). For example, my mainsail gaskets are spliced cover-only.

Notes: A double overhand works as well as on double braid as a diamond knot; it simpler and though smaller, presents a very sharp edge and thus is perhaps just as opening resistant as the latter which is more rounded. A turkshead works in 3-strand, where a tight double overhand is impossible. A single line works fine for longer stropes. Webbing is a mistake; depending on how the webbing lies, there may be no sharp edge on the knot. The loop can be spliced or seize, but that is just more complex; I use the bulk of the knot to advantage on tarps and awnings by tying the knots on either side of the grommet, keeping the strop captive and safe from loss. Strength loss in the knots is largely irrelevant, as the strope fails where the loop cuts the stopper knot.

Done. I've used them for 20 years to secure tarps and awnings on my boat. I've never had one shake loose. Larger per unit strength than Colloigo Marine-style soft shackles and considerably more bulky, they still come in handy due to shear ease and simplicity.

I've tested a number of these, in different materials, to failure; they never slip and always fail by the loop cutting the tail knot off, at about 160% of the single line strength... unless made of Spectra, whereupon the the stopper knot becomes undependable diamond knot more reliable. On single braid Amsteel a tuck splice is faster than a knot and thus we have the Kohlhoff type, which is easier to remove after loading.

 To the right, a different style loop sewn from old 5/16 polyester.
Broke at line strength.


 Some applications, some for Amsteel shackles, some for polyester stropes:

• Attaching tarps and awnings. No knots to jam and no chance of scratching the gelcoat. Any length you want.
• Securing the horseshoe life ring; strong and fine in UV (unlike Velcro or bungees), yet can't jam.
• Sail gaskets. Unlike Fastek fasteners they won't shatter when you step on them, are easier to manage than knots with gloves on, and never jam. This is my every-day use.
• Non-jamming reef knots (multiple knots accommodate 1st and 2nd reefs).
• Securing halyards and preventing slap. Less noise and no scratching of the mast.
• Towing a tube full of kids; a metal shackle would make the floating tow line sink and a knot will jam. 
• Chain-to-snubber attachment.
• Securing rope coils

There are more modern solutions, but this remains a useful trick to keep in your toolbox. A gift from the golden age of sail.

 

and this from a 1976 Sail Magazine article on tall ships (that was the year of the Bicentenical and the big get-together; Rememmber?

 

Messing About in Boats

At some point we become so accustomed to winter it loses its bite and 45 degrees seems warm. Too warm for snow and ice sport, at least, if not warm enough for lawn chairs. We've spent too much time in the house, whatever task were assigned are either finished or won't be. Sunday was such a day. The wind had blown 30-50 knots from the northwest for days and there wasn't likely to be much water in the Bay. Never mind. It was time to get out of the house.

It was still cold mid-morning and the water was very low, but I was unconcerned; the sun would warm the deck, the heater would warm the cabin and the water would come back by noon since the wind had stopped. I had a few lazy things to do.

• Fit a new chain hook design, fabricated while bored in mid winter. I didn't like it so well as this one: Chain Hook For Catamarans
• Measure the holding tank vent and ruminated on changes. I'm doing a new bit for Practical Sailor on the subject and one's own boat is always the primary test bed, the experience best understood.
• Bum some Phifertex and Sta-Glas scraps from the local canvas shop. They often have mercy on those with tiny repair needs.
• Uncover the tender. Heavy snow seems unlikely (we got a few inches 2 days later, of course)

Those things didn't take so long. I started the engines, allowed them the the long warm-up winter requires, threw off the lines... and went 3 feet before the mud grabbed the keel. Well, no surprise, really; I brought a book and lunch and would make use of them. No hurry.

I decided to poke around in the tender, having fabricated a few reasons: it needed air, which can only be added when floating; I like to run some gas through it on a regular basis; I'd seen a sailboat aground in the harbor entrance which I might visit.

The boat was still there, aground for at least 5 hours, much of that with sails up. I don't know why he left the sails up, as they were only driving him further on. His first question to me, after a greeting, was about the location of the channel and when had it moved. The neat double row of red and green day marks 20 feet to his north didn't register, for some reason. He was well and completely stuck, though not leaning. His boat was also in such repair that calling Seatow seemed unlikely.

Having nothing to do, it seemed only proper to give what help I could. I've never had a serious grounding of my own nor any opportunity for real practice, and learning is always worthwhile. After many years of paying for towing insurance I let it go this year; I've never used it and likely never will. With 2 engines, sails, anchors, and a tender, I can't foresee many situations I can't work out that would be still be considered simple tows. I would also, right or wrong, consider a tow embarrassing.

I ran out an anchor for him (note: a 25-pound CQR is a heavy kedge; a Fortress is MUCH better) without any difficulty. Good practice. But it didn't help. I took his jib halyard, tied an additional 75 feet of line to it, and hauled that to one side to heel the boat. She leaned nearly to the rail did turn in the direction of the anchor, toward the channel, but didn't move far. We didn't break anything, but neither did we free the boat. Still, the tide was rising quickly and within an hour she lifted just enough to winch herself free, just as the tide reversed. A few hours later, my new friend was over the horizon.

Shoal Survivor too, had floated free. There's not much to tell about a quiet afternoon on the Bay. I shared my bit of the horizon with only 3 boats. I read a few chapters of fiction, walked the deck listening to the whisper of the water, and enjoyed a cold beer. There would be no crowd at the marina to nod approvingly if I docked well in the cross tide, or to empathize if I didn't.

I tucked her back into bed for a few more weeks of rest. Summer's coming.

When the Water Gets Too Firm for Sailing...

White Oak Canyon, Shenandoah National Park, with friends. I did get a small shiner from a falling icicle that tapped me on the side of the head, but overall, a very relaxing day.

 

For sailing, I wish it was warmer. For climbing, I wish it was colder. Just no satisfaction....

For the non-climbers, a few points of explanation:

• The hands are leashed to ice axes, which are sharp and designed to hook into the ice very strongly. Generally, a single sharp blow in the right spot (where the ice will not shatter) is all that is needed, rather like trying to set a roofing nail with one strike. Well placed, they can hold 700 pounds each... or nothing at all when placed poorly.
• The boots are armed with crampons, with sharpened points about 1-inch long. They are either lightly kicked or firmly placed where they can bite. The trick is to place them and then relax, without cutting your lifeline, the rope.
• If the rope is above the climber, it is a top rope, like the local climbing wall. Good if the ice is melting and less than secure. Falling becomes casual.
• If the rope is below, it is lead climbing. I have placed screws that can hold more than 2,000 pounds... if I have chosen the right place and the ice is good. I will fall some distance, perhaps 15 feet, until the rope catches. If the ice screw fails, I would fall past the next one; in this case, since the next screw is quite far below, I would hit the deck, about 40 feet down. It's best not to fall even the shortest distance on ice, since the crampons often catch, causing broken ankles.

Photographs by Dave Rockwell.

PDQ 32 Price sheet, 2002

Tip for the Day: Gycerin to Seal Inflatable Tender Air Valves

rev. 7-22-2024

For years I have been fighting occasional air loss; often I would have to pump it up every few days, sometimes every week or so. I tested it will soap (no bubbles except a few at the air valves) and sealed anything that looked like it might be worn.

Just a dab of glycerin in and around the valve seals reduces leaks for 45 days or more. It is very slow to dry, perhaps several months in the open and slower in a valve. There is no potential to damage any of the seal or inflatable components. There is no mess; any spillage washes off. And there are certainly auxiliary uses in the medicine cabinet.

Why does it take so long to learn simple stuff?

---

Yes, you can replace the valve assembly in quality inflatables. It's not that hard, but it's not trivial and  if the fabric is old it is possible the leak will be worse. When glycerine no longer seals your valves, it's time to break our the wrench and replace them. A special wrench may be required. The one time I did this, the plastic wrench came with the valve kit. Hint: glycerine can be useful for lubing things up, during the installation, but K-Y works even better. K-Y was invented as a surgical lubricant.

Stiletto Footage

Such a fun boat to sail. So easy and fast. I miss her... on nice days.

Vintage footage, from the original promo; So 70s.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcuAKqrV-MU 

Knuckle head sailing; lots of helm because the traveler is ridiculous... and yeah, I'm not so old that I missed the bikini:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PbZvfqlcHU&feature=related

 

And some more hedonistic stuff:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfE3A2NVqEA&feature=related




Of course, the PDQ will get, if the wind is up, but right now I'm stuck at home with a head cold.:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtfdWc1BuDY


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrAi8Uuek4Q




Only the last clip is mine; I shot it just because someone asked about wave action under the deck, up-wind.

Good Ideas, Bad Ideas, and Stewardship

rev. 11-8-2013

I would like to share a  post by another blogger: Stewardship-not-Ownership

What, if anything, we owe to the future owner of our boats, or to ourselves if we keep the boat longer than we first anticipated? Unlike cars, which for me at least are valuable only as scrap metal when I'm finished with them, sailboats are like houses and generally see generations of owners. With good maintenance, the useful life of a fiberglass sailboat is at least 50 years--perhaps more--dependent on care and use. Some boats are unique, were made in limited productions runs, and will never be reproduced. My Stiletto was like that, like a classic race car, built of pre-preg Kevlar honeycomb and cured in an autoclave. I would have felt not only loss but guilt if I had wrecked it, either by accident or by poorly considered modifications. Instead, I am proud to have passed it on to its next owner in better shape than I received it, even after I extracting 15 years of adventure from her. A 30-year-old rocket that could still manage 20 knots with the right breeze and crew. She was just no longer the boat her then 50-year-old owner and family wanted.

We focus on well thought out up-grades and modifications, we try to match or improve upon factory engineering and craftsmanship, all while pinching pennies as tightly as humanly possible. How do we feel about the results? How will feel about becoming the dreaded and much maligned PO (previous owner) in the future? How will we feel, in the future, cursing our own short cuts or impulse-driven modifications?

On my Stiletto, the PO was a moron and I redid everything that he touched, with few exceptions; poor choice of materials, no understanding of wiring, and no rigging sense. On the PDQ, the PO deserves better marks, if only because he subbed major work out. I try to do better, since I'm a long-term owner.

A few of my failures and successes, offered for public display.

___________________

Good Ideas

Alternative Storage Ideas. Or rather, all storage ideas that don't require drilling and cutting. Every owner will have his own ideas about stowage, so I like removable stuff and dislike permanent changes. Dividers inside bins, out of site, are different; suit yourself. I've added hammocks (laundry) and fabric catch-alls liberally. Winch handle holders have been added and moved. Lashing points have been added where useful. But it can all be removed with very little lingering evidence. Few boats are set up for cruising; they are set-up for daysailing and overnights. So try some things, and change them as your needs change.

Winch Handle Holder Near the Mast Base. I can't believe the PO climbed around the side decks carrying a handle in one hand; I need 2 for safety. Besides, I only made the trip twice about 20 times, going back for the forgotten handle, before I installed a forward holder.

Supplemental Lighting in Deck Lockers. I hate digging out fenders or sails by flashlight. Not hard to make "factory" installation, with a good pair of ratchet crimpers, an eye to factory installation pattern (assuming the boat is well-wired), and an eye on the amps. Automotive and RV products seem to work just fine in interior areas. I only worry about wattage and LEDs on high-usage applications, not lockers. Trunk lights are stock on cheap cars... why not boats?

Chain Lock. Helps secure the anchor and prevents inadvertently loading the windlass. I could have bought one, but I enjoy working metal, have some skills, and made a factory-quality version. I sealed the core at each hole and installed a mated aluminum backing plate.

Wrapping Wheel and Hardtop Columns with 1/4" Line. Very comfortable (cool and warm) and better grip. Cheap, but a little labor intensive. A must-do, we actually did this the evening before our delivery trip. My first upgrade!

Propane Heater. Should be stock, for a boat built in Canada. Curious, in its omission. I took my time and did a by-the-book installation. I even sailed around with a cardboard box model taped to the bulkhead for a season before I committed to the final location; I didn't want a 4-inch hole in the ceiling as a reminder of a bad planning. I fabricated my own line deflector, as the factory version was too high-aspect. I think the install looks factory.

Storm Windows. Should be stock up north! Piece of cake and they match the screens nicely.

Bathroom Vent. Standard on houses... and I got paid more for the magazine article than the material cost plus my healthy self-appointed labor rate!

Secondary Stern Mooring Points. Should be standard on all cats; keeps mooring lines away from the tender. No drilling required. I use them every day.

Window Covers. Takes a big load off the AC, extends window life, and install without drilling.

Better Winterizing.  Why a boat built in Canada wouldn't come with the right valves escapes me. I added valves to add glycol the head and potable water systems. 15 minute winterizing.

Swing-away TV Mount. I'm not thrilled with the finish, but it's mechanically perfect. If the next owner doesn't like it, I drilled no holes.

Improved Dinghy Lifting Takle. The original, with 3:1 purchase and awkward cleats was a challenge when tired and impossible for my child. The new version, based on dingy mainsheet parts, is 6:1 with a cam cleat. Works like a charm.

Pad Eyes on the Deck Near the Mast Base. Very handy for securing halyards, without crowding the mast.

Storm Windows. Great for the cool season.

Bug Screen for Companionway. On the PDQ 32 the roof slider is a large area, is covered from rain by the hard top, and really lets in air... and bugs. A screen makes creek anchorages enjoyable.

Transom Extensions. Faster, sure, but mostly I love the more user friendly aspects of low transoms with a nice place to stand.  A lot of work, but well worth it.

Keel Fairing and Extension. After relocating the genoa sheet lead, the most speed and handling for the dollar and labor. If your trailing edge is blunt and she has too much weather helm, do it.



Bad Ideas

Secondary Bow Anchors. I added a second bow anchor well to my Stiletto. The thing of it is, a second anchor is never actually deployed from the bow. Stern anchors are placed from the stern. Bahamian anchors and other angled sets are generally deployed from the transom and then the rode brought to the bow. IF an anchor IS to be rowed out, it's loaded into the dingy at the transom. So, on my new boat I have a rack for my spare anchor (Fortress F-16) in the stern locker and keep the rode in a bucket next to it. Much better. I wouldn't accept a second bow roller and windlass if they were given to me; I would never use them. Fortunately the anchors on the Stiletto are light, so the new owner should be OK with the PO!

If you ever set twin bow anchors, with the rodes both in lockers, and the boat spins a few times, best luck getting it untangled. Another reason twin bow anchors windlasses and lockers don't work.

Substandard Wiring. The PO added several fans, all without fuses and all with poor connections. Two small fires resulted, damaging only the fans, but the potential was far worse. In 2 cases, the fans were wired-in by  stuffing the stripped ends of the power wires into other spade connectors, and hiding the connection under the upholstery! NEVER leave a hazard. I wrote an article on wiring for Practical Sailor reporting the results of a 1-year torture test of crimps and electrical components, a result of my quest to find a better means for more permanent repairs in damp areas. My Stiletto suffered from poor wiring when I got it, and I wanted to do better on the PDQ.

Wiring Color Codes. Guilty. I often use the wire I have, but I try to bundle the wires in such a way as to minimize confusion. Labling wires with tape helps.

Traveler for Spinnaker.  Worked great on the Stiletto, but I seldom needed it because the boat was so fast (apparent wind forward of the beam). Failed utterly on the PDQ because of the bow light location on the gull striker (broke the light). However, I do make use of the control cleats, I'm recycling the parts, and no drilling was required. A 2-lind bridle with 3:1 purchase on each bow is better.

Clamp-on Fishing Rod Holders. The PO had a clamp-on holder. It might work for a few small fish, but anything worth catching trolling would pull the rod out; the clamp could never prevent the holder from rotating on the rail. Simple 18-inch lengths of 2-inch PVC pipe lashed to the stern rail in 3 places are cheap, less cluttered looking, can hold any pole (boat hook etc.), and are very strong. I just lash them on with 1/4" line, as I like the look and it leaves no marks.

Cheap Foam Cabinet Liners. I spent a non-productive afternoon scraping the rotted rubber from shelving. I muttered unkind things about the PO. I like indoor-outdoor carpet better, where needed. Stays put, dries better and lasts longer.

Self-tailing Winch With no Backing Plate. I pulled it out of the deck on a breezy day. Not even fender washers. Stupid. Now it has a big FRP backing plate. PO's short-cut work could have cost a valuable bit of deck hardware.

Undersize In-line Fuel Filter. PO addition, increased resistance without being large enough to help with bad fuel. I replaced with a nice pair of Raycors. Overkill, but an improvement. Heck, a big part of my career is fuel processing, so I need clean fuel. I also re-routed the fuel lines to reduce air pocket formation and added a few vents and drains.

Fragile Freshwater Strainer From Factory. Broke in thunderstorm, releasing all water to the bilge. Upgraded to something strong.

Stern Rail Mount for Dingy Engine. Or at least I believe this was a bad idea. I'm certain the risk of my dropping the engine overboard or injuring my sometimes weak back FAR exceeds the risk of it coming off the tender: It's a light 3.5 hp 2-stroke, it's tightly clamped to the tender's transom and has a back-up tether, and the davits are sturdy. I've up-graded the davit tackle and I trice up the tender if it's really nasty. If I should ever chose to take it off, it will fit in a stern locker more quickly than I could securely clamp it to the bracket. The mount had been removed to my basement.

Repaired Damaged Engine Mount with Marine Tex (PO), When FRP Was Needed. Could have lost an engine. Rebuilt it with epoxy, glass, and pre-laminated FRP. Better than factory.

Using Silicone as an Adhesive. Or as a sealant, in many cases. Generally a short-cut method that does not last. My only use on the PDQ is to make a removable mounting pad where oil is present or to seal a wire passage. I used silicone too many times on the Stiletto, and it generally let me down. I didn't know... at first.

There are two major exceptions, where silicone is the best sealing material:

• Glazing (replacing widows). DOW 795, sometimes in combination with VHB tape, is the pro way and the easy way. This specific product is optimized for this purpose and has except bonding movement, and durability characteristics.
• Bedding equipment that is marked "use silicone." Many plastics can be damamge and caused to crack by solvents in polyurethane sealants and butyl tape. Spinlock rope clutches are one common example.
  

Curtains. The PO did a very nice job, but I removed them anyway. After seeing another PDQ without, I realized they just made the cabin claustrophobic. But I left the tracks and if a future owner or an older me feels differently, they'll go up in minutes.

Wind Vane on Bow of PDQ. I hate looking up and I like and indicator down low. On the Stiletto a bow vane worked well; I did inside jibes on the chute. On the PDQ I do outside jibes and creamed 2 vanes with the sheets. 

 I replaced them with flexible wands with a yarn at the tip; that seems to be working well.

Side Boarding Ladders. My Stiletto had one (factory), and we learned it was far too easy to leave the sucker down, and it takes a beating underway! Fold up transom ladders only slow you down 1/2 knot when you forget. The Stiletto gained a transom ladder, hand fabricated from aluminum square tube and Starboard because of unusual dimensions.

Head Intake Filter Located Behind the Head. Impossible to clean. I installed an upgraded (easier to clean) strainer to the holding tank compartment, where it does a fine job of keeping sea grass out of the head rim.

_________________

Occasionally, given time, GOOD items migrate into the BAD column. Given time, I get smarter and some BAD ideas are re-engineered into GOOD ideas. Some of the ideas I've listed as BAD are GOOD on catamarans. We're not always smarter than the designer's engineers, and our workmanship (or more often our short cuts) occasionally plays us up. My main goal is to "do no harm." The factory did pretty well.

Al Gore and ethanol--So, now it's not a good thing, now that I'm out of politics?

rev. 11-26-2010 rev. 7-21-2024

But we already knew that.

Al Gore, November 22, 2010:

"One of the reasons I made that mistake [over ethanol] is that I paid particular attention to the farmers in my home state of Tennessee, and I had a certain fondness for the farmers in the state of Iowa because I was about to run for president" in 2000.

This article, via NBC, MSN, and Reuters, pretty well sums it up.

Our former Vice President comes clean, admits he supported ethanol solely to get votes, and that it was based upon no science.

• The direct subsidies totaled 7.7 Billions dollars.
• Food prices have been placed in turmoil. Probably the worst public policy to come out of Washington in a decade. Independent United Nations expert stated US ethanol policy was a "crime against humanity." http://www.livescience.com/environment/071027-ap-biofuel-crime.html
• That there is no net benefit to the environment; the process of raising corn, distilling, and bring the ethanol to market is not zero impact.

I don't know whether to laugh or cry.

______________________________

And then there is the other bio-fuel, biodiesel. The story is very similar; impacts on highway funding, food prices, and in this case the soap industry too...

http://pubs.acs.org/cen/news/85/i22/8522news3.html

To my knowledge, the bio diesel subsidies expired without renewal--they lacked the sort of lobby Archer/Danials/Midland could conjure--and so many small producers have folded. The animal feed guys are thrilled, since these fats had always been recycle into feed products; that fats were wasted was always pure political myth.

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So, now what of global warming? I believe he is more sincere in his beliefs there; I'm not sure his grasp of the science is any better. He has certainly thrown away his credentials.